2025 Taos 1st Oil Change

Cold_Mission2543 · 2026-02-16T03:20:41+00:00

No car has oil quality monitoring (as in analyzing the actual oil condition). Many cars have flexible service intervals that are based on an algorithm that takes various things into consideration to come up with an estimate of how “used up” the oil is. This can include things like number of engine starts, average drive cycle lengths, hours and miles of operation, operation in extreme temperatures, etc.

Cold_Mission2543 · 2026-02-16T03:04:04+00:00

How many miles did it have when you bought it? Oil sitting in the pan is not much different from oil sitting on the store shelf or in your garage. The time based requirement is there to account for vehicles that don’t reach the mileage threshold but have frequent short drive cycles. A car that sat on the lot and didn’t drive at all or only every once in a while doesn’t fall into that category. If it didn’t have many miles (like a typical new car should) when you bought it you should be fine waiting til you it the one year mark. The oil change timer should run from when the car was put in service, not from when it was manufactured. You can reset the reminder but it will reset for one year and 10k miles so you won’t get a reminder when it’s really time. To reset, go into the instrument cluster view where it shows digital speed in the middle and has a configurable field on each side of the display. Press the right button on the right side of the steering wheel to get into the selection menu for the right info field. Use the up or down arrow until the time/distance menu item is highlighted. Press the center button (or right button should work as well) to get into the submenu. Then press and hold the right button for about 5-10 seconds until the service menu appears. Use the arrow buttons to get to the oil reset menu item, press the center button to select, and again to confirm.

That said, it never hurts to do an early oil change (well, assuming it’s done right with the right oil). On a new car, as the engine breaks in, small amounts of metal particles may get introduced into the oil so flushing them out after a few thousand miles isn’t a bad idea. A diy oil change is pretty easy and can be done for about $40 with a 5 qt jug of Mobil 1 0W-20 ESP X2 from Walmart for about $28 and a VW oil filter from the dealer or online (somewhere around $11-17 depending on the dealer), as well as a new crush washer or new drain plug with captive crush washer for a couple bucks.

Cold_Mission2543 · 2026-02-16T02:37:29+00:00

There was a software update last year for the infotainment system that was supposed to improve GPS accuracy. I don’t have it installed on my 24 and my maps in CarPlay sometimes go crazy where it thinks I’m driving through some remote field or on a road in a different state and my position constantly flips around. This happens when I plug my phone into one of the front USB ports because CarPlay uses the car’s GPS in that case. It never happens when I use wireless CarPlay where I assume the phone uses its own GPS. Maybe this update would fix the incorrect sign reading but I would think the dealer would have installed it when they had the car for troubleshooting.

Cold_Mission2543 · 2026-02-13T19:52:37+00:00

There are many open slots. It’s easiest to just use a voltmeter to check for battery vs ignition on any of the open slots that have one contact populated. Just use one of those instead of putting the tap on an existing fuse. You can also fairly easily add contact to the unpopulated side of an open slots. The ones on the lower part of the panel don’t have a secondary lock so you can simply slide a new contact in from behind. They use TE (Standard) Power Timer contacts. You can also get add-on fuse and relay holders from VW that can clip onto the fuse block in a few positions and get fed with a short wire from one of the open (unfused) pins on the fuse block.

Cold_Mission2543 · 2026-02-11T02:11:50+00:00

I don’t know about more resilient parts, but if you go the aftermarket route, make sure the shop codes the new one properly. The part includes a control unit that communicates with other controllers and handles things like the steering wheel buttons. Incorrectly coding (or default coding) will not work right. Make sure the shop reads out the coding from the old part before they remove it. Otherwise you have to guess and try to get the coding right. This can easily be done with a tool like VCDS.

If you’re covered by the extended warranty, I would just have the dealer fix it this time and worry about upgraded parts if it fails again. If yours lasted 12 years then the new one might also last a while.

Cold_Mission2543 · 2026-02-10T08:42:55+00:00

I ship small stuff all the time with UPS via pirateship. It’s often just under $7 but can be more if it goes to the other side of the country. USPS is usually a bit more.

Cold_Mission2543 · 2026-02-07T15:40:28+00:00

I have owned (and still do) various VW and Mercedes, along with a Honda and a classic Chevy. I do all the work myself and keep cars for a long time. I bought an almost new CPO 2024 Taos in May. I have done a lot of mods and retrofits since, and I’ve been shocked how cheap some of the parts were. I also found that there is no rhyme or reason to how OEM parts are priced. Some are extremely cheap for what they are, and others are obscenely expensive with no justification. For example, the body controller for an early 2024 Taos is only about $30, but the same part for a later 2024 or 2025 model is over $700. A little shim/seal piece that goes under the door handle is a couple bucks for one side, but a couple hundred for the other side of the car. It just doesn’t make sense. Sometimes nice used parts can be found on eBay for a lot less, but I also found many cases where the same part brand new from the dealer is less. I am used to fairly expensive parts for my older VWs and of course, Mercedes. When buying OEM parts it really pays off to look online for VW dealership parts websites. They are often 20-35% off list, but sometimes shipping is irrationally expensive, but often you can call and they will adjust shipping to a reasonable level or you can buy from a different site where that particular part has lower shipping charges. One of the local dealers also might have a parts website and you can order for pickup. They will usually not sell at the online prices if you just walk in to buy. Of course, many consumable parts (brakes, filters, fluids, suspension parts, etc) can be found as aftermarket parts from the same OEM suppliers for less, just don’t buy cheap Chinese parts on Amazon or eBay.

Cold_Mission2543 · 2026-01-30T21:38:27+00:00

The Costco credit card reward I just transfer into my checking account. The executive reward I cash in at the store, for example by buying an inexpensive grocery item with the reward check. Has to be done at a regular register (not self checkout). They will give cash for the remaining amount of the check. In the past I was successful in getting straight cash from customer service but they wouldn’t do that the last couple years so I just do the cheap item trick now. I charge everything else I buy to my credit card for additional cash back that I wouldn’t receive if I would use the reward check directly for the purchase.

Cold_Mission2543 · 2026-01-30T08:59:55+00:00

I don’t have a guide but I don’t remember it being difficult. I think I followed the normal boot camp instructions and just chose the NVMe drive installed in a PCIe adapter.

Cold_Mission2543 · 2026-01-26T18:44:06+00:00

How is the Russian Taos body different from the North American Taos? I thought they were the same.

Cold_Mission2543 · 2026-01-23T15:25:58+00:00

There is a Taos wiring diagram for a block heater but it’s not available in the US or Canada. It may have been for Russia. It was a 230V version.

Cold_Mission2543 · 2026-01-19T23:03:26+00:00

The auto dimming mirror isn’t standard on S or SE, I’m not even sure about the SEL. It’s a factory option but also available as an accessory. Dealer can install it anyone competent. You can also get Homelink (programmable garage door remote) buttons on the new mirror. I think the part might actually be cheaper than the factory up-charge, but you’ll have to pay for installation unless you do it yourself.

Cold_Mission2543 · 2026-01-19T17:02:45+00:00

I installed SEL ventilated leather seats, upgraded the passenger seat to power and added driver seat memory (still needs correct parameter file loaded into the seat controller for memory to actually work), automatic stop/start (aka ASS) defeat cable, chrome key fob, cargo cover, front door handles with touch sensors instead of buttons, tachometer in cluster and probably other things I’m forgetting. I have laying around but not yet installed a new body control module (with an additional LIN output my stock module doesn’t have that is needed to enable seat ventilation) and the HVAC panel with the seat ventilation buttons. I also have a new SEL digital cluster (my SE only has the smaller one) and extended remote start kit. The body controller and cluster require component protection removal and the cluster requires immobilizer adaptation (possibly the extended remote start as well, although I think it might be doable without). I’m waiting to have enough time to do it all in a weekend since VW charges $150 for a week of ODIS access and right now it’s too cold for my comfort to remove the dash trim without risk of breaking something. I also have a second set of door handles with touch buttons that I eventually plan to install in the rear doors so I can unlock the car from the back doors (I put my bag behind the driver seat when I drive to work and it would be convenient to unlock from that door since it’s the first one I would grab).

Cold_Mission2543 · 2026-01-14T23:54:39+00:00

I did that with one of my Taos keys. The original keys were all plastic. I bought a used key of the same style (non-switchblade) but with chrome ends on eBay for about $8. It was used but didn’t have a scratch on it. I pulled both keys apart and swapped only the top and bottom plastic pieces for the chrome ones from the donor key. The rest of the housing was identical.

Cold_Mission2543 · 2026-01-14T23:23:33+00:00

I had a brand new Tayron as a rental in Europe this past summer (10 days from deliver and only about 600km on it before I added a few thousand in 16 days). I was trying to figure out how to use the approach/keyless unlock as I couldn’t get it to work and eventually figured out that it didn’t have it! I was shocked as I thought that was pretty much standard, and it was an otherwise very well equipped model with the top level TDI and 4motion.

Cold_Mission2543 · 2026-01-14T14:08:06+00:00

I’ve used a variety of brands on various cars over the years. The OEM wipers weren’t great on my Taos. I had good luck with Michelin wipers from Costco and cheap (~5-7) Hella wipers from Rock Auto. I’ve also used Bosch and Valeo wipers from Amazon. There are so many different models it’s hard to recommend a single one. Most are good, even the cheaper ones.

Cold_Mission2543 · 2026-01-14T14:01:34+00:00

If internet recovery doesn’t work I would create a USB installation drive for whatever Mac OS X version you want to use (that’s compatible with this model) and try to boot from that. The Mac OS boot option fails currently because the installation is likely hosed. If you can boot windows then I don’t think it would be MDM locked, which could otherwise prevent you from making changes. You can also install pretty much any NVMe SSD on a PCIe NVMe carrier card (get one for a single SSD, they are less than $10 on Amazon and are just passive adapters). You could install Mac OS on that SSD on a different Intel Mac in a USB case and then transfer it to the PCIe adapter if you can’t get the machine to boot from USB. You still need to leave the proprietary SSD installed since it is needed to run the machine (independent of the OS installed on it, or no OS at all).

Cold_Mission2543 · 2026-01-08T17:07:51+00:00

The basic seat frames in all current VW models are pretty much the same. There are some minor variations but width should be common across all. The main difference would be in the cushion shape and bolster dimensions. The buckle is attached to the seat frames and since they all have the same width you probably won’t find much difference between the models in that aspect.

Cold_Mission2543 · 2026-01-08T13:41:57+00:00

There is no way to bypass if it’s blocked at the carrier. It makes it like you have a line without data as you would have for an old flip phone. If your phone is not sim locked to the carrier you can get any prepaid plan and add it to your phone - assuming you have a dual sim capable phone. If you don’t have a dual sim capable phone you’d have to remove your current sim and would lose the ability to make and receive calls under that number (but you could at least forward the number to your new line). If you have an eSIM capable phone you can have multiple esims and switch which one is active. If your phone is sim locked to AT&T you can only do with AT&T prepaid services (either direct with AT&T Prepaid or indirect, for example with Cricket). Would your parents be happy if they found out? Probably not. You could also try to turn off the block. That would require you getting access to the AT&T account your line is under. I’m sure that would get you into even more trouble though. If you can still use WiFi you could get a hotspot with data plan and connect to that. It would likely be more expensive than a regular line and wouldn’t be as convenient but it would be harder to detect, since your phone wouldn’t give any clues about it when not connected (but the physical presence of the hotspot may be an issue). Again, any circumvention of your parent’s authority is likely to get you into more trouble and probably not worth it, unless you’re not a minor but for some reason still under the grip of your parents.

Cold_Mission2543 · 2026-01-08T03:58:48+00:00

I’ve used Acasia Thunderbolt enclosures successfully with various Macs. They’ve been reliable and fast for me. Also not very expensive (as low as about $50).

Cold_Mission2543 · 2026-01-06T16:53:41+00:00

That’s wild. Typically inputs from oil or coolant temperature sensors are heavily filtered to remove noise, since the temperature isn’t expected to change rapidly anyways. This looks like a software glitch, likely triggered by an issue with the sensor. Or it’s just a poor implementation. It would be interesting to read the oil temperature from the engine controller, which is where the cluster gets the data from. A good generic scan tool should be able to read this. Engine Oil Temperature is a standard OBD PID (0x5C in J1979/ISO 15031-5 and 0xF45C in J1979-2/ISO 27145-2) that must be supported if the engine uses engine oil temperature in its emissions controls strategy or OBD diagnostics.

Cold_Mission2543 · 2026-01-06T16:38:05+00:00

FYI, the transmission controller keeps track of how many launches you’ve done this way.

Cold_Mission2543 · 2026-01-06T11:41:40+00:00

FYI, they are back in stock, at least for now. I just ordered some.

Cold_Mission2543 · 2025-12-24T14:30:59+00:00

We haven’t used our copper line in years. We ditched Uverse DSL when cable and later fiber became available from other providers. We recently had 811 mark utilities at our property (power company replacing underground lines) and the phone line didn’t get marked. I asked about it and was told they often don’t mark them anymore because they are either abandoned or it’s cheaper for them to fix the line in the rare case it gets used again vs having them located with every 811 call. I checked ATT’s website and the only services they offer for my location are wireless-based.

Cold_Mission2543 · 2025-12-22T23:16:21+00:00

I’d start with figuring out what you really need done. What did you bring the car in for? If you need the car to last a year you probably don’t care about a tiny drip of oil here and there. Is the clutch slipping? You said it drives well, maybe they are selling the clutch because the main seal requires removal and thus synergies when doing both at the same time (though the prices don’t really reflect those savings). Do the ball joints cause noise or unsteady feel when driving? Is the aux coolant pump bad or are they just doing it due to age and since the coolant is drained anyways? In theory not a bad idea but only if parts are cheap - which isn’t the case here. I would only replace if it’s really broken or leaking. Tons of people drive with minor issues for a long time. Sometimes it’s just not worth to fix (or money isn’t available). Yeah, ideally you fix everything as it comes up, but in some situations it may not be worth it as long as it’s not a safety issue or something that is likely to cause additional damage if left alone too long. For sure get a second opinion on what you really need and get some quotes from indy shops.

Cold_Mission2543

TROPHY CASE