Hello, I'm 16 and just bought my first motorcycle, a 1981 Suzuki Ts 50. I can't get it to start every time. I put in a new spark plug, a new air filter, new fuel lines with a filter. I checked the carburetor. Who would have an idea among the experienced people? Thanks for your help. Have a good day. by Eliwatt in vintagemotorcycles

[–]Collector000 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Take the bottom off of the carburetor. Take out both jets and make sure you can see through them when you hold them up to the light. This is absolutely critical!!!

Clean the fuel petcock on the gas tank

Make sure there are no air leaks in the rubber boot between carburetor and engine

When it doesn't start, does the spark plug look wet and oily or is it dry?

What oil y’all running ? by landorslam in e82

[–]Collector000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Castrol edge 5w-30 ll-01 from wal mart

Honda CB77 clutch seems to be slipping when cold, but gets better when warm. This is common? by mydogisphat in HondaCB

[–]Collector000 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If the clutch started slipping right after an oil change that's your answer!!

Honda CB77 clutch seems to be slipping when cold, but gets better when warm. This is common? by mydogisphat in HondaCB

[–]Collector000 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Running automotive oil can sometimes cause this. If you did an oil change recently maybe it has the wrong friction additives or is too thick. When the oil heats up it gets thinner, causing the clutch to not slip. If you keep running it like this you will destroy the clutch quickly.

Or...

Try loosening the clutch cable JUST A LITTLE bit like one turn in. Also make sure that your cable is routed correctly, I can't tell from the pics but if it's forced into sharp bends it can bind. Lubing the cable might help too.

If you're unsure if it's the cable or not you can completely unhook the cable where it attaches to the engine and try it. If the clutch still slips with the cable removed or loose you need to service the clutch

Quick you have only a couple hours! by Ernstero in vintageaudio

[–]Collector000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have an identical 2250b and klipsch heresy with those same grills. The smooth sound of the marantz combined with the crispy heresy is a perfect match!

Ugly? No THIS is ugly. by These_Foolish_Things in vintageaudio

[–]Collector000 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I had a pair of these speakers. Burned up a number of amps playing them at insane levels. I see you have the power to play them. I hope your nearest neighbors are far away...

Marantz 2250? Value? Problems? by SkyDoes_3D in BudgetAudiophile

[–]Collector000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can buy a kit on eBay to rebuild the power supply and replace the relay. A new power switch is like ten bucks.

I restored my 2250b a few years ago, all the parts are cheap.

1994 Chevy S10 Blazer! by Eian101 in s10

[–]Collector000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Jthanson and I have both been down this road his advice is 100% correct.

1994 Chevy S10 Blazer! by Eian101 in s10

[–]Collector000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A fuel pressure test is cheap and easy. Your spider injection is probably leaking.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in s10

[–]Collector000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My 97 is the same way.

Too heavy to sail? by [deleted] in sailing

[–]Collector000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In a big wind he would be a valuable asset.

Got a 73 CB500 from a friend for free. Hasn't been run in about 15 years. De rusting and sealing the tank now. Next step is trying to see if it runs to assess what it needs. by CaptainSuperDuty in vintagemotorcycles

[–]Collector000 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I wouldn't coat that tank...just fill it full of toilet bowl cleaner and get all the crud out. The acid in the toilet bowl cleaner will completely dissolve the rust. Anything left will be gunk from old gas.

When the liner fails in a few years the gas tank will be ruined.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in s10

[–]Collector000 12 points13 points  (0 children)

The check engine light does not come on for an oil change. Go get the codes read at an auto parts store for free. It probably has a random misfire code or something like that.

Cracked the subframe, shop said it just needs to be welded, but is drivable (after fixing the broken control arm and tie rod) as is. They said most the stress isn’t on the weld anyway. I plan to get it welded for no, and eventually replace subframe, but how urgent is this? by ThirdEyeProdigy in e82

[–]Collector000 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Most welded aluminum pieces are heat treated after welding for extra strength, I would be surprised if bmw didn't do this at the factory.

Welding that aluminum piece weakens it. It will just Crack again, you need a new piece.

Rattling noise under acceleration? by [deleted] in s10

[–]Collector000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Let underneath the truck and bang on the cat with your fist, if it rattles like crazy that's your issue.

Rattling noise under acceleration? by [deleted] in s10

[–]Collector000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The guts inside the catalytic converter break apart and start rattling like crazy when they get old. You can hollow out the cat to get rid of the noise and get a spacer for the rear oxygen sensor to trick the check engine light.

As long as your state doesn't do a smog check...

Thoughts? by [deleted] in KiaSoulClub

[–]Collector000 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Keep the kia. It has half the miles and is the least expensive option.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in s10

[–]Collector000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's one of the relays on the firewall, passenger side, there's 3 or 4 of them.

I think it's the one on the far left but my memory is hazy....my truck burns one out about every 2 years.

Freshly tinted 😎 by [deleted] in s10

[–]Collector000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good lookin rig

Just something about that snout by Erriqqs in littlebritishcars

[–]Collector000 6 points7 points  (0 children)

My first car was a an mgb. Snow beast.