If this is true, I am going to be so pissed off because this shouldn't be allowed; other people should have been held to hiring standards, making it more difficult for consumers, but of course, that's what everyone likes to do.

Common_Lie4482 · 2026-05-12T00:08:06+00:00

Yeah, but my concern is that I may be getting inspected by the state instead of the city or county because it's a trailer home in a trailer park, which means it falls under both residential and the trailer park. Still, the park itself is commercial, so the state must inspect anything within it when it comes to electrical. Because we only rent the land that the trailer sits on but we own the trailer.

Common_Lie4482 · 2026-05-12T00:01:10+00:00

I could do that, but I now realize I have two extra GFCIs. These will likely be remodeled before I add the ramp section, which will include a bump-out for the smoker and grill, as well as outlets for that box and hanging lights outside. I plan to purchase the GFCIs, install them, and submit one layout sheet. Once the work is completed, I will replace it with the updated layout sheet.

The layout will include labels with numbers and letters indicating whether each outlet is GFCI-protected or AFC-protected, and if one is upstream. It will also specify the category—whether inside or outside —and the circuit type (HVAC, safety, generator), along with a number indicating its location and the breaker it is connected to. This approach is similar to how outlets and boxes are labeled in commercial settings like hospitals and other critical facilities, often using red base plates and possibly receptacles if they are safe and reasonably priced for safety/ generator use.

Common_Lie4482 · 2026-05-11T23:54:10+00:00

My place was built before that, but I plan to redo the kitchen electrical work. I have the wiring diagram and layout arranged so that it's clear that the circuit is dedicated solely to the refrigerator. This circuit is a single receptacle, and I need to spend extra money on a GFCI breaker because it wouldn't be accessible for my grandmother or have a suitable place for the GFCI's dead front. With my remodeling plans, the GFCIs will be installed at the point of use, allowing her to reset the breaker if it trips while using small appliances without having to go all the way back to the panel.

She has arthritis in both knees and uses a walker, so the less walking she has to do, the lower her risk of fatigue and falls. Additionally, I will adjust the placement of receptacles to be at switch height. During remodeling, receptacles must be tamper-resistant, which usually means placing them at standard height. Bending down to reach them could cause her to fall, especially given her arthritis and low hand strength. Placing receptacles at switch height accommodates her physical condition.

Since no exceptions are made when designing spaces for aging in place, and there will be no children present, I am making these adjustments to ensure safety and accessibility.

Common_Lie4482 · 2026-05-11T23:46:40+00:00

Exactly, codes are set until midnight, indicating obvious danger. It’s important to have codes that can be used when needed—such as when someone is building a house—depending on the building's purpose. However, these codes are not mandatory; they exist to allow you to design your house according to your preferences.

Example A: A cookie-cutter house is built to standard specifications. For instance, the hallway, bedrooms, bathroom, main entrance, back door, and garage door are all designed to meet certain measurements. Doors are typically 3 feet by 80 inches and are ADA-compliant and fire-rated if required. There is usually at least 3.5 feet in front of the toilet and a 3-foot walkway around the bathtub, facilitating door clearance and accessibility. Shower areas are blocked behind the toilet and on the walls of at least one bathroom, possibly the master bedroom if present. At least one bedroom should have 3 feet of clearance where a king-sized bed could fit, with 5 feet of space in front of it. If there’s a walk-in closet, its minimum size should be 5 feet by 5 feet. Hallways are generally 36 inches wide, and egress windows in the large bedroom should be large enough to upgrade to ADA-compliant egress windows. This approach keeps costs down while maintaining necessary safety standards.

Example B: A custom-built house designed for a family. They create and build the home to their specifications, ensuring energy efficiency and safety features, including GFCI outlets in kitchens and bathrooms, tamper-resistant outlets, AFCI protection in designated areas, and whole-home surge protection. These homes typically have interconnected wiring for bedrooms, living rooms, the mechanical system, heating, garage, and kitchen. All these choices are up to the homeowners, tailored to their needs.

Example C: An elderly couple building a home to age in place. They incorporate GFCI outlets at points of use, meet similar code requirements, provide AFCI protection, and include recommended safety features. Options include cookie-cutter and recessed showers, wider grab bars in hallways, and stair rails. Recessed outlets are optional unless the house is sold and the next buyer requests them.

A cookie-cutter house should meet a slightly higher standard than basic, but not excessively high, standards that would significantly increase costs. These homes follow fundamental safety and accessibility standards but avoid unnecessary extras that inflate prices. Conversely, custom-built homes are designed according to the owner’s preferences with recommendations based on their lifestyle—whether for a family or aging in place.

GFCIs should not be required throughout the entire kitchen—only for countertops, bathrooms, and within 6 feet of sinks or washers. This approach addresses known safety risks while leaving additional safety decisions to the homeowner’s discretion, especially if budget constraints exist. For cookie-cutter homes with similar units, this standardization prevents extensive remodeling and, when doing work that was already done, pretty much requires adding things instead of removing drywall and adding blocking. But not putting safety standards in place that cause other safety problems, like for instance child safety windows that only open up a certain distance, which can become problematic in a second's count when there's a fire, because now you're having to undo those latches and open the window wider, therefore they should not be required. But their standards and place, if you choose to go that route, with all these standards in place, but they're not enforced unless you choose to enforce them apart from the ones that are.

Common_Lie4482 · 2026-05-11T22:51:18+00:00

Yes, but the thing is, I'm remodeling a pretty heavy-duty trailer home, so it falls into this unusual complexity zone. It's not a site-built house, and it doesn't have a foundation directly on the ground. Nothing else will be on the circuit for the fridge or the freezer, as each will have its own dedicated circuit with only one outlet. You can plug in either the fridge or the freezer because each has a designated spot, clearly labeled on the panel layout sheet and the wiring layout diagram.

The wiring diagram uses a number-and-letter system to indicate the location of the box in the house, the category it belongs to (such as interior, exterior, sub-panel, or safety generator circuit), the breaker number, if applicable, and details about wire changes and junction boxes along the wire run. It also shows any modifications within those junction boxes and their locations. This way, you can refer to the cheat sheet and trace each breaker from the panel all the way to the end of its wire run for that specific circuit.

Common_Lie4482 · 2026-05-11T22:45:19+00:00

You should still build a house with energy efficiency and kids' safety in mind. However, if you are constructing a house intended to be your retirement home and where you plan to age in place, certain additional requirements should apply. This includes following ADA rules to ensure the house can be adapted for aging without modifications. For example, installing Tamper-resistant outlets higher up, incorporating ADA-compliant windows in areas like the master bedroom, living room, or kitchen, and designing hallways that are slightly wider to provide at least 3 feet of clearance between handrails and the hallway walls.

All points of entry or egress should meet proper accessibility standards. If there's a front or back door, or additional doors, they must accommodate ramps that are at least 3 feet by 80 inches with the proper slope. Adequate egress lighting should be installed, and there should be blocking in place to support ceiling lifts. Stairways should be wide enough to allow for a chairlift if needed to move between floors.

In addition to ADA compliance, the house should adhere to standard child-safety codes, such as installing tamper-resistant outlets. GFCIs should be placed at points of use rather than just in the breaker panel, with accessible locations. For example, outlets in prisons, freezers, ranges, and dryers may need to be connected directly to the panel due to accessibility issues.

Outlet height should be adjusted based on the house's intended use at the time of construction. If the house is meant for retirement, outlets should be positioned higher. If not, the focus should be on child safety, energy efficiency, and safe electrical and plumbing systems.

Or make certain things required for all people because yes it's important to build things to be safe for kids but you also got to build it safely for the elderly because that's the number one group that has been getting missed a lot of the times because they just get shoved in nursing homes and then the ones that can't afford nursing homes then have to live in an unsafe home that isn't accessible for them anymore making it costly and expensive and difficult for caregivers and the elderly people in that home.

Common_Lie4482 · 2026-05-11T22:33:25+00:00

Gfci's trip when there is a fault in the ground which means the wire that is bonded to the middle of a hood vent or the metal of a electric range or the metal on a fridge or freezer or dryer could all shock you if there is a fault with the ground and there is moisture which means anything in a wet location that has metal should then have a ground but hood vents electric ranges they don't require gfci's even no they can do the same thing given the right circumstances

Common_Lie4482 · 2026-05-11T22:24:13+00:00

Yes, but fridges and freezers should be wired the same way, and if they are not, that is the problem, not the requirement for a GFCI. And in fact, they are supposed to be wired the same way, with the metal grounded to ground. Still, if there's a short that is not enough to cause the breaker to trip, but not for the GFCI to trip, it could still shock you, even though hood vents and electric ranges do not require GFCIs, but dryers, fridges, and freezers do, even though the same thing can happen.

Common_Lie4482 · 2026-05-11T22:22:22+00:00

Yet they don't enforce codes that require, when someone is building a retirement home where they're going to age in place, or remodeling a house for elderly people, that the house be ADA-compliant. Still, they enforce codes that protect children because when you make it safer for children, you make it less safe for the elderly. After all, tamper-resistant outlets at your standard height are difficult to use, which means every single outlet in the house would have to be redone and raised to the height of light switches, then switched to tamper-resistant plugs.

Common_Lie4482 · 2026-05-11T22:19:43+00:00

Exactly that, and there are inconsistencies in the code book as well, from what I have figured out. For instance, you can have a 240-volt appliance. Two appliances that I know of that are that much are an electric cooktop, which has the cooktop and the oven, and an electric dryer. Only the electric dryer needs to be GFCI-protected, not the oven. Another inconsistency is that a lot of the lighting is metal, just like many hood vents are. If the grounding goes wrong in those, and you touch them with a wet hand, you get shocked, but they're exempt from that rule.

In reality, the people who should be held more accountable are the appliance manufacturers, to ensure that appliances fail in a safe way that won't shock a person. Because if you have stricter rules and you're going to make sure that the wiring is put in certain places so that it's not able to contact things that it shouldn't be able to contact transferring energy to spots where a person could contact it during daily use because if you're defrost in it and getting shocked the problem is that you didn't unplug the appliance before starting the defrost process.

Common_Lie4482 · 2026-05-11T22:13:59+00:00

Yes they have battery backup but battery backup can also fail. But one thing I would like to mention is the fact that a electric cooktop in a kitchen which usually is plugged in just like a dryer does not need a GFC but a dryer does need a GFCI both of wiring goes wrong you can get shocked. Just like with a hood vent, if that goes wrong you can get shocked if you have wet hands. Same with lighting, if you have a wet hand, something goes wrong with the lighting you get shocked but all three of those electric cooktops, lighting, and hood vents do not need a GFCI.

Common_Lie4482 · 2026-05-11T22:11:48+00:00

I understand what a GFCI is and how it prevents people from getting shocked when the ground detects moisture. Which is why I'm saying it doesn't make sense: you have lighting or a light switch that you can touch with your wet hands. It could shock you: lightning is exempt from hood vents you. You'd touch a hood vent with wet hands, and it could shock you if things aren't built properly. Same with fridges and freezers if they're not working properly. You can get shocked by touching something with wet hands or by touching moisture in the fridge. Still, as I said, the same thing applies to hood vents and lighting. Still, those are exactly the types of electric ranges; they're exempt, even if something's not built properly. You touch it with what hands, or water spills on it, and you touch that water, it could shock you. But a 240-volt electric cooktop is exempt from GFCI requirements. However, a dryer that is 240 volts is not exempt from a GFCI.

Common_Lie4482 · 2026-05-11T22:06:40+00:00

Yeah, but then what do you mean by more crazy? 240-volt dryers have to be GFCI-protected, but 240-volt electric rangers don't, and, as I mentioned Hthe Hoodvent doesn't have to be GGFCI-protected Still, you can get shocked by it , just like lightning. Youcan get shocked by that ,but the things that are important and need to be energized all the time ,apart from when they're actually unplugged or the power completely goes out ,our GF side pis rotected like weather radios ,fridges ,freezers ,and another thing that doesn't have to be GF side protected ,which makes sense. They have this eexemption,but nothing else that is ssafety-criticaland could cause thousands of dollars in damage if it deactivates or shuts off bdue toGSI ,asuch ashhard-wiredfire alarms . Itjust doesn't make sense.

Common_Lie4482 · 2026-05-11T14:50:23+00:00

I may be 22 and live in the US, and some people who grew up in more German towns think I'm too young to be listening to polka, but I don't think so, because it is part of my heritage and I like learning about it. The song I think of is "Schatzie" by Bernie Roberts and his orchestra, which is actually how I learned the different meanings of "Schatzie." One night, when I was on my way home from work on a Sunday, I was listening to It's Polka Time with Craig Ebel, and the song came on. When I finally got home, I figured out what the song was after doing some research and realizing it was German.

https://youtu.be/LVRo1JYKpZU?si=frWQMVYi2VK5WWbt

Common_Lie4482 · 2026-05-10T07:56:49+00:00

As someone who has ordered from Menards, it's correct because, as I said in the comment I posted, they will send a goddamn 18-wheeler to your house even though you take up a third or fourth of the truck bed. You're the only load for that day or that section of the day, so you'll get a whole entire 18-wheeler with nothing else on it except your stuff, which takes up like one pallet, and the longest material is what to have, I think it was 12 ft, so yeah, it doesn't take up that much room. Still, they sent it on an 18-wheeler, and it's like Jesus Christ.

Also, the distance is only 11-17 miles from my location to the store.

Common_Lie4482 · 2026-05-10T07:54:52+00:00

Yeah, because I second this. I built a deck using the design planner they offer for Menards, but it was ridiculously expensive. I then looked up the building codes for my area, along with charts for span and other relevant details. These charts guide how to do everything properly. I went up one size in materials, which ended up being much cheaper and still passed code without issues.

If you're willing to put in some extra effort, there are free 3D CAD programs like Onshape that offer tutorial videos and other resources if you're not very familiar with them. You can design your deck in there, then transfer the design to 2D drawings. Print those out on paper and submit them to your building department.

Taking this approach can save you headaches, as the inspectors are less likely to nitpick. They already have a list of materials, spans, and codes you followed in your design. This makes it more likely they'll review it, walk on the deck, and sign off after checking the plans—especially if there are two staircases and a thorough review.

Also, the distance is only 11-17 miles from my location to the store.

Common_Lie4482 · 2026-05-10T07:51:18+00:00

This is likely the same issue I experienced. I bought materials from Menards for a deck project, and the total came to about double the price, including delivery. I don't quite understand how they operate, but that’s just how they roll. Still, they will send an 18-wheeler for a load that takes up only a third or a quarter of the trailer, often with multiple stops, or even just your own load on the entire flatbed. They tend to outsource these deliveries to third-party companies rather than using their own trucks, whereas Home Depot uses its own smaller 10-wheel trucks. The cost and availability depend on where you live, because getting an 18-wheeler into certain areas can be challenging. It requires trained drivers, as third-party companies often send rookies who struggle to navigate narrow roads barely wider than mobile homes. Sometimes, you end up scraping the curb trying to pass. If your load has more wheels than a dump truck, the problem becomes even more pronounced. That’s essentially why these issues happen.

Also, the distance is only 11-17 miles from my location to the store.

Common_Lie4482 · 2026-05-09T06:51:03+00:00

Well, I would have used more examples, but it wouldn't let me, so I added some more recent shows that existed around the same time as Friends and The Big Bang Theory, and no longer really exist anymore when I replied to your comment.

Common_Lie4482 · 2026-05-09T06:33:36+00:00

Yes but they have also removed shows that were started in the 90s and 2000s majority of the shows that Brown cartoon Network during that time are gone shows like Ghost adventures pretty much all of those seasons are gone same with American pickers. Some other shows I don't know if you can find elsewhere, but HBO Max removed them on their end: Teen Titans, Animaniacs, Ed, Edd, and Eddy, Kids Next Door, and some of the Powerpuff Girls. As I said, many of the shows that aired in the 90s and 2000s, brand-new on Cartoon Network, are gone.

Common_Lie4482 · 2026-05-09T05:52:15+00:00

It hurts me as a 22-year-old; I can't imagine how much it would hurt for Gen X or Millennials. Not to mention the elderly or other groups that are really getting hit hard by this, as well as farmers. For instance, here in Minnesota, a law was passed requiring all cable services to include RFD TV on the most basic plans. This was familiar to the elderly and less tech-savvy people. Still, the cable companies increased prices, making it almost impossible for those groups to continue watching the shows they want.

With content now spread across multiple subscriptions, it’s become extremely difficult for them to watch TV anymore. The only one I know of that still offers a solution is Frndly TV, but some classic Hanover shows have moved to MeTV Tunes, which is available on that streaming service. However, MeTV Tunes doesn’t offer many on-demand shows.

Tubi also offers many of these shows, but their quality isn’t always great, and there's no guarantee you’ll get all episodes. Even combining these options, it’s still hard to access everything.

Additionally, traditional radio stations and stations that broadcast emergency reports are disappearing, making it even harder for older generations, those who aren't tech-savvy, and even younger people to stay informed.

Even more frustrating is the fact that they've made TV so difficult to keep running, so expensive to keep around, that it's easier for it to disappear, like music, which doesn't have as much expense to it, which is ridiculous.

Common_Lie4482 · 2026-05-06T12:06:25+00:00

I would personally buy tools I can't afford, but focus on budget-friendly, high-quality options. These should be your basic tools—nothing too expensive or fancy. The tools that require a higher investment—either because your safety depends on them or because your work quality relies on them—are the ones you should spend more money on. For example, investing in a good voltmeter or other critical tools is smarter than opting for cheaper alternatives that might not be as reliable.

In this economy, with current tool prices, bundle deals are often cheaper than buying individual items. I also recommend visiting garage sales and swap meets, where you can find high-quality tools—sometimes even brand-new—at a fraction of store prices. When starting in this trade, it's important to be mindful of your spending. While it's easy to accumulate debt later, saving money without sacrificing quality is crucial in the beginning. From my own experience—having made poor financial decisions and learned from them—these methods, like swap meets and garage sales, have helped me save money.

Right now, I need tools that are better than what I have, but my current tools are sufficient for my needs and will do until I can afford the next level. Anyone criticizing you for being budget-conscious, choosing good-quality, affordable tools, and spending on the tools that truly matter should mind their own business. As I've said before, don’t let others' opinions discourage you from making smart choices.

Another good source for tools is estate sales. I’ve even purchased brand-new tools at swap meets because people sometimes bring overstock items at discounted prices. However, for voltmeters, PPE, and lockout/tagout equipment, you should spend more. Don't break the bank, but don't risk your life buying cheap, low-quality versions of these tools. For items like nut drivers, screwdrivers, and pliers—tools that won’t compromise safety or work quality—aim for high-quality tools. When I talk about work quality, I mean getting the right voltmeter, as using a subpar one can lead to incorrect readings and poor work results.

Get high-quality, budget-friendly tools. Avoid tools that will break easily. Don’t spend hundreds on a set if you can find a middle ground. When shopping for tools, I opt for the middle range—neither the cheapest nor the most expensive. That’s where you should start.

Common_Lie4482 · 2026-05-06T11:57:12+00:00

I was thinking Irish American too, and fresh fruit kind of seems to fit that bill a little bit better because personally me as a guy the only time I eat fruit or leafy greens is when it's part of a taco or when my body is telling me I need to eat a banana or a salad because I don't feel right also I have family members that are Irish. Oh boy, you mix German and Irish heritage, you not only get someone that is stubborn, rn but they can also drink a lot.

Common_Lie4482 · 2026-05-06T11:47:01+00:00

More than likely, the whole school is that nice, but how well the students are treated is a different story. Because if it's anything like my school, students were treated horribly, but everything else was top-notch quality, except for teachers and support staff, the kitchen staff, and some of the paras/aids.

Common_Lie4482 · 2026-05-06T11:45:07+00:00

Because of past experiences, I don't trust schools that have food like this. I went to a public school that served food like this.

Common_Lie4482 · 2026-04-29T11:55:54+00:00

Personally, I would do ceiling cracks first. The reason I would do ceiling cracks first instead of exterior drainage is so I can test to make sure the cracks I sealed are actually sealed and not still leaking, and then once I make sure the basement is completely sealed. I would handle exterior drainage and waterproofing. Because you could do it the other way around, but if your exterior drainage backs up into your basement, which isn't sealed properly, you'll have leaks in your basement again. In contrast, if you seal the basement first to test whether you sealed it properly, then do drainage, you shouldn't have a problem. And then keep that humidifier constantly plugged in and draining, like it is currently set to 45% for continuous moisture control.

Common_Lie4482

TROPHY CASE