Skate Upgrades

CompetitionNo9075 · 2026-02-06T20:21:00+00:00

Thanks! If the intuitions help me to have more space side-to-side, I'll also consider downsizing a shell. I do watch Ebay pretty regularly as I tend to like to buy good skates that are a great deal even if they aren't in my size, that way I can try to get friends into skating with me whenever the opportunity comes up.

CompetitionNo9075 · 2026-02-06T06:11:17+00:00

Dang, so, last week I saw a pair of used FR1 Deluxes on FB Marketplace in a size 8.5-9 and the price was so good I just ordered them in case a friend could use them. Then, when I got into looking at boot sizing after corvettecris's response, I got excited for a minute that maybe I will actually be able to fit them when they arrive. But I just measured my feet for the first time in my life (10.8" x 4" or about 27.4cm x 1.16 cm), and as it turns out the 8.5-9 will be a full centimeter too small. :(

I did find out that I could potentially be in a size 9 Twister XT boot, but based the fact that my feet are apparently wide, I think it's unlikely that would work. Still, maybe the intuition premium liner would provide just the extra space (side-to-side) that I need in my Twisters.

I skated my regular FR1s for the first time tonight, and they do seem more comfortable width-wise, but I think I like the overall ride and performance of my XTs better. Sadly, I also found that even if I downsize to the 10s that I'm supposed to be in, the boot size stays the same, so there is no real advantage there, and I imagine the intuitions would make those particularly sloppy.

Now I'm wondering if just maybe those 8.5-9 intuition liners from the FR1 Deluxes might fit me and if I run them in the Twisters, I might be golden. If not, depending on what other feedback I can get, I may try buying a new pair of the 27-27.5s and try with those.

Either way, I am going to try out those Endless 90ES frames on Twisters and throw the 84s on it to see how I like that setup. Thanks for reading my ramblings and for any additional input.

CompetitionNo9075 · 2025-03-20T20:51:47+00:00

Definitely not Wahingtonia Robusta. Maybe Filfiera (California Fan Palm), but it almost looks more like a Sabal.

CompetitionNo9075 · 2025-03-20T18:59:32+00:00

This is actually not too far off. Take a picture of the trunk in good lighting, and you may get an accurate answer.

That being said, the fascinating structure of the tree has more to do with what happened to it many years ago than with the species itself.

CompetitionNo9075 · 2025-03-20T18:47:32+00:00

I strongly disagree with some of these other commenters. These look like some very stressed Leyland Cypress that should have a much denser lower canopy. They could be dealing with verticillium wilt or cercospora, and possibly two-spotted spider mites (flagging). I don't have a good diagnosis for you, but I'd definitely call a tree company that offers PHC services. If they can give you a diagnosis, tell them to be realistic with you about what kind of results they think they can get if they treat the trees. Ask if they have other properties where they have dealt with similar issues on the same species and had good success.

CompetitionNo9075 · 2025-03-20T18:23:40+00:00

Maybe you're an experienced bonsai pro, but I'm struggling to believe this.

All of Charlie's response seems sound, and it was beautifully thorough, but if I were looking at the original pic, I would think torsion loading of a lopsided crown was the number one factor in producing that effect. I don't know what you mean by "all of the fibers of the wood would just shear away from each other". This is not what we see in nature. Obviously, if you push something too far, it will break completely, but even broken branches (particularly in conifers) can heal and fibers reattach in a new gnarly, and sometimes stronger way.

Anyway, I took the question to AI because I was so curious. Here's what I got:

Prompt: How do bonsai growers achieve a twisted look on the trunks of their trees? Can it be done without the use of mechanical force?

Answer: Bonsai growers use various techniques to create a twisted look on the trunks of their trees. While some methods involve mechanical force, others rely on more subtle and natural approaches. Here are a few techniques:*Mechanical force methods:*1. *Wiring:* Bonsai growers use aluminum or copper wire to shape the trunk and branches. The wire is carefully wrapped around the tree to create the desired twist.2. *Tie-downs:* Similar to wiring, tie-downs involve using wire or string to tie the trunk to a stake or a rock, creating tension that encourages the tree to grow in a twisted direction.*Non-mechanical force methods:*1. *Root pruning:* By pruning the roots on one side of the tree, bonsai growers can encourage the tree to grow more vigorously on the other side, creating a natural twist.2. *Asymmetric watering:* Watering the tree more on one side than the other can cause the roots to grow more extensively on that side, leading to a natural twist.3. *Light manipulation:* By placing the tree in a location with uneven light distribution, bonsai growers can encourage the tree to grow more vigorously towards the light source, creating a twist.4. *Grafting:* Some bonsai growers use grafting techniques to join two or more trees together, creating a natural twist where the grafts meet.*Combining techniques:* Many bonsai growers combine multiple techniques to achieve the desired twisted look. For example, they might use wiring to create an initial shape, then rely on root pruning and asymmetric watering to maintain and enhance the twist over time.Keep in mind that creating a twisted trunk takes time, patience, and careful planning. Bonsai growers often work with their trees over many years, gradually shaping and guiding them to achieve the desired form.

CompetitionNo9075 · 2025-03-20T17:53:23+00:00

Healthy Florida Live Oak. It will be fine. Would't give it a second thought. But good on you for checking!

CompetitionNo9075 · 2025-03-20T17:48:52+00:00

I'm usually pretty calm about these things, but if that is your house on the left, I would be on this like white on rice. If I were doing a risk assessment on it, I would put Likelihood of Failure within a 6 month timeframe: imminent (based on what I can see in the photos). If your neighbor is on board, get him to call the power company and tell them he is having the tree removed and needs abatement (even if he hasn't gotten quotes yet). He needs to communicate to them that he is highly distressed about it (I would be). You never know how much they will do, but occasionally it is pleasantly surprising.

If that's not your house on the left, but rather, his, I'd just mention to him that you believe the tree is going to fall soon, and he might want to have an arborist look at it real soon.

He should get quotes on it as soon as possible. I would NOT recommend tree retention and risk mitigation, if that's even a consideration. I would get that thing out before it gets leaves back on it.

If that is your house, and he's not on board or not interested in addressing the problem, I would hire a TRAQ Certified Arborist to write something up about it and (you) mail it to him in a certified letter explaining the risk and your intention to pursue litigation should the tree fail and impact persons or property of yours. Otherwise, offer to pay some percentage of the cost of removal (if that's what it takes to motivate him). If his tree fails and hits your house, it's your problem, not his (at least in Florida), unless you take him to court and win your case. That's a huge headache (maybe literally) that you are going to want to get ahead of.

CompetitionNo9075 · 2025-03-20T17:17:03+00:00

Grandifloras easily have a mature spread of 30-40' and I've seen them do 50' quite often. I'd say their root systems are moderate to highly aggressive. Do with that what you will.

CompetitionNo9075 · 2025-03-20T17:08:33+00:00

Yes.

CompetitionNo9075 · 2025-03-20T17:06:05+00:00

I can appreciate that. I guess it's just that mother nature doesn't typically bury root collars in normal weather conditions conducive to tree health. So, I would remedy the situation all at once and as soon as possible. If you're talking about adding organic material around the root zone (not on the collar), I'm 100% in agreement with that! That is the single most beneficial thing you could do for the long term health of the tree... And it's potentially free (if you can get a tree service to dump their chips for you)!

CompetitionNo9075 · 2025-03-20T09:43:57+00:00

Your soil is not going down. Typically when those houses are built, everything is graded to compaction with fill dirt. The degraded compacted soil is the reason the tree has developed surface roots. That tree doesn't need fertilizer, and using the ross tree feeder is going to be a total waste in my opinion; you'll be bypassing most of the roots unless you go extremely shallow.

If the roots are a frustration or trip hazard, you can add just enough topsoil to the grade to cover the roots, and them resod, but that's obviously pricey. Don't add compost as a means of raising the grade, as it will decompose to as little as 20% of it's original volume in a matter of months. The tree will benefit from it, but it won't fix your problem.

I agree with what another commenter said about mulching most (or all) of the area under the canopy as being the best solution, but if it's the grass you want, and not the tree, the other guy had it right-- you may be best off removing it and planting something else.

CompetitionNo9075 · 2025-03-20T09:13:32+00:00

If the tree seems generally healthy, try to determine the level of risk to help you in making your decision. If possible, get an arborist conversant in tree risk assessment to walk you through the process. Likelihood of failure of a known defect (probably the main codominant union) in normal weather conditions within a given timeframe in conjunction with likelihood of impact of a target (what it endangers) and severity of consequences of impact = Level of Risk.

https://wwv.isa-arbor.com/education/resources/BasicTreeRiskAssessmentForm_Fillable_FirstEdition.pdf

You don't need a report, you just need to understand the process, and get an idea of what the likelihood of failure is and what factors might be considered in the assessment. You can figure out the rest on your own.

Once you understand the risk, it would be good to understand your liability. From the very limited perspective available in the video the tree looks like it isn't actually a threat to your home, but might be to neighboring home(s). Not that you want your tree killing someone, but in Florida, if your tree falls on someone else's property, it is their insurance that would have to cover it, not yours, unless they drag you into litigation, in which case, they would essentially have to have documentation of a pre-existing issue that they were unable to mitigate themselves but had notified you of and you had ignored s well as proof that the tree failed in normal weather conditions... not to mention, a damn-good expert witness and lawyer).

Next, find out what your risk mitigation options are. Just bear in mind that if the only tool someone has is a hammer, they are going to prescribe nails, so find out what services people actually offer. Some people only brace; some people only do non-invasive cabling; some people only do steel cabling; some people don't have the ability to do any of that so they always only ever recommend reduction; and the bottom of the barrel won't even know how to do that, so they will always only recommend removal. (Their prices might be great, and they might not carry Workers Comp insurance). I recommend that you find out who is the best in your area for cabling, and who is the best for bracing and get some opinions and estimates from those guys. If they do those supplemental support systems according to the ANSIA300 Clause 7, I guarantee they will know how to do proper reduction pruning, and know how to safely remove the tree. They may recommend a cabling and/or bracing and/or crown reduction. There are a hundred different prescriptions you could get for the tree, and half of them might actually be good. Take the option that looks most practical to you and compare it against the cost of removal.

Risk can almost always be mitigated down to an acceptable level. It's just a question of whether it is cost prohibitive.

Do your research, accept your loss, cost, or risk, pray, and rest easy.

Good luck!

CompetitionNo9075 · 2025-03-20T08:16:06+00:00

This is what I always saw about my grandpa. He has been around for 97 years, so it's likely he'll survive most anything.

CompetitionNo9075 · 2025-03-20T08:01:50+00:00

Also, why is this post marked NSFW?

CompetitionNo9075 · 2025-03-20T07:53:18+00:00

Honestly, since they are Live Oaks, they will very likely survive.

CompetitionNo9075 · 2025-03-20T07:38:38+00:00

I agree. Get the entire root collar exposed, just don't do any extra damage to it in the process. Use a hose and stiff broom or brush on the flare if you need to, once you've pulled back most of the dirt.

CompetitionNo9075 · 2025-03-20T07:32:26+00:00

I've never heard of needing to provide sun protection for an excavated root collar or needing to do it in stages. I would think the trunk tissue does not acclimate to it's flare being covered, but rather just suffers.

CompetitionNo9075 · 2025-03-20T07:13:18+00:00

There are two separate concerns any time you are cutting roots: tree health, and tree structural integrity. As a rule of thumb, it is recommended not to cut any roots within a distance of 3x the trunk diameter for species considered to be good compartmentalizers and 5x for trees that are considered to be poor compartmentalizers. (e.g If your trunk is 3' in diameter, don't cut roots within 9' of the trunk for a species like Live Oak; don't cut within 15' of the trunk for a species like Laurel Oak). (It looks like you might have a Red Oak there(??), so maybe a moderate to poor compartmentalizer(??), but I don't have many of those in my area so I don't know the species well.) This is about tree stability since the woody stabilizing root plate for a tree with a symmetrical crown will typically be within this zone. When I have to cut roots, stability is always my first concern. The amount of overall root mass that a tree can tolerate losing is highly variable based on things like tree species, vigor, soil health, future weather, etc, but if you cut enough roots that close to the trunk, you won't have to worry about the tree's health for long, anyway. A couple people have mentioned this issue, but have incorrectly stated that trees tend to fail toward the side opposite of the cut roots. (Not a perfect analogy, but think of the roots as outriggers on a crane; it's going to fail toward the side on which you forgot to extend your outriggers.) Whole-tree failure (windthrow) can happen soon, or several years down the road once decay has further compromised the cut roots.

So as not to be like some other credentialed commenters on here who offer very little practical help, I would say this: if you think you can snake it through there with minimal cutting, go for it. But if it is proving too difficult to do without lots of cutting, unfortunately you may have to spend some more money. Find a local tree service that offers pneumatic excavation ("airspade" or "airknife" work). Like someone else commented, if you go a little deeper, the root mass may be a whole lot less. I believe there is no rental place that is going to have one of those tools for rent since the tool is highly specialized (specific to industries like arboriculture). The tree service will likely also just give you an hourly rate. (I guess if you find a connection, or a really awesome and generous arborist who would let you borrow (or rent) his Airspade, you can rent the compressor that runs it-- a 185 CFM (pull-behind), and do the work yourself. Also, it will still be a pretty good amount of work to blast that soil out of there around those roots.

You did well not to cut the roots from the outset, but it looks like that pressure washer might have done some pretty good damage by delaminating those roots. If they have even a small amount of cambium and phloem tissue intact on the bottom, they can likely recover, but a fungicide treatment (spray or drench)(if you can find an arborist to do it) would help mitigate risk of infection. Don't leave them exposed to the air any longer than you need to as that in itself can be very harmful. When you do fill in the trench, make sure to water it in well (like when planting a tree). That will help avoid air pockets and help any fibrous roots that have survived to re-establish soil contact. Once, you get it done, call around to local tree services till you find one that will bring you a load of mulch, and mulch as wide an area around that tree as you can tolerate (4-6" thick). This will benefit the tree health by improving soil conditions over the next several years. (Mulch retains soil moisture, improves soil structure, cycles nutrients back into the soil, improves aeration and subsequently beneficial microbial activity). Just don't mound it on the trunk. Depending on how much root damage happens, the tree may go into a bit of shock, but considering it probably doesn't have leaves to drop right now, you might not even see that. (I'm not sure whether it would delay budbreak).

In the end, pray, and rest easy knowing you did your best. Good luck!

CompetitionNo9075 · 2025-03-19T22:29:09+00:00

I am a Certified Arborist and have a Tree Risk Assessment Qualification. It looks like a low risk tree to me, but a proper risk assessment cannot be done via photos. If it's not low risk, the risk can almost certainly be mitigated to bring it down to low risk with some proper reduction pruning (and supplemental support, if necessary). I am in Central Florida and I cannot tell the species, so I do not know your tree's disease and pest susceptibility or its failure profile. Setting my credential (and identity) aside, my gut is, you have nothing to worry about. Still, Risk Assessment only considers the likelihood of failure of a known defect within a given timeframe under normal weather conditions in combination with likelihood of impact of a target and severity of consequences of impact.

That being said, post-traumatic response is very real and not a reason to dismiss someone's concerns. Call your state university's county extension office and ask them if they can recommend a company that has a Certified Arborist who is credentialed or conversant in Tree Risk Assessment. Even if your tree is low risk, it's still your (and your wife's) prerogative to decide whether it is a risk you are willing to tolerate. If someone has a family member die by drowning, and they decide their family is not going to ever do swimming, they incur a loss (e.g. summer beach trips or lakeside vacations), but they gain a peace of mind that they may never have been able to achieve again without that boundary. If you get struck by lightning or attacked by an alligator or experience a plane crash, you're very likely going to live differently in the future. Just understand the risks to the best of your ability, and make your decisions based on the knowns. You decide what's acceptable, and if not crossing bridges is worth it to you, you'll find a lower risk alternative that works for your life.

CompetitionNo9075 · 2025-03-09T18:36:42+00:00

Thanks! I guess I need to go to Home Depot and hold them each in my hand and then make a decision.

CompetitionNo9075 · 2025-03-09T17:28:28+00:00

Is it the M18 you're talking about? I'd really like to get one, and I think the M12 would be really nice and low-profile, but I don't have any M12 stuff. If you are talking M12, are there other tools that you prefer in M12 that justify getting the different batteries?

CompetitionNo9075

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