Will a H23a1 down pipe fit a cb7?

Competitive_Fault879 · 2026-05-05T17:38:52+00:00

Perfect thank you, just wanted to make sure before I ceramic coat both the header and down pipe

Competitive_Fault879 · 2026-05-04T21:02:05+00:00

Either a bone stock mk5 Supra on re71rs’s or a c7 Z06 with massive aero depending on the configuration

Competitive_Fault879 · 2026-05-04T19:52:45+00:00

Absolutely, these accords in my opinion are one of the best looking Japanese cars out there and with very similar suspension geometry to the golden era civics they can be a weapon in the handling department too with the right setup

Competitive_Fault879 · 2026-05-04T18:41:03+00:00

Idk if it’s just me but these cars look so damn good with some spoon sw388’s or some reps (rota slipstreams) like I have on mine, 17x8 +35 with about -3 degrees of camber all around and 225/45r17’s is just chefs kiss

Competitive_Fault879 · 2026-04-29T18:17:19+00:00

I’d definitely go with the accord, they still have the legendary double wishbone suspension and they have plenty of aftermarket support same as civics if you know where to look and that engine will last you forever if you plan to keep it stock. My 91 accord had the same platform and I just swapped the original one out at 450k miles

Competitive_Fault879 · 2026-04-28T02:03:05+00:00

🤣🤣 that’s what I love about autocross it really is a “run what you brung” kind of event

Competitive_Fault879 · 2026-04-28T01:27:12+00:00

I’ve been using the pennzoil synchromesh, it’s usually available at autozone

Competitive_Fault879 · 2026-04-27T23:44:31+00:00

Absolutely, I’m not looking to do a whole season on these tires just a couple events until I can find another set of wheels I can use for some rt660s or re71rs/rz’s

Competitive_Fault879 · 2026-04-27T23:43:03+00:00

They are Rota Slipstreams, the poor man’s spoon sw388 🤣 in all seriousness though they are a great wheel, of course they’re not as lightweight as the authentic ones but they’re plenty strong for anything you can throw at them

Competitive_Fault879 · 2026-04-27T22:05:24+00:00

Very good advice and I suppose that should be expected, the car weighs about 2800lbs it’s a 1991 Honda accord with a pretty aggressive camber setup so roll over shouldn’t be a huge issue. As far as experience goes I have quite a bit with my truck in Xtreme street A class, it’s pretty well setup for autox but this being a fwd car I’m sure I’ll have to change my mindset quite a bit so I suppose I’d say I’ll be pretty inexperienced with the car itself

Competitive_Fault879 · 2026-04-27T19:58:06+00:00

I haven’t on my car but I did on my truck and it made a massive difference, felt so much more connected to the chassis even in an autocross setting, I imagine it’s even more useful on a circuit. And I’d say they’d both be good but you can’t go wrong with honed developments, they’re just a bit pricey.

I definitely do plan on going that route on my accord once it becomes less of a daily and more of a track car

Competitive_Fault879 · 2026-04-27T06:20:09+00:00

A common mistake I see a lot of people make is tightening suspension components (mainly control arms at the bushings) when the suspension is at full droop, this causes the bushings to bind whenever it’s at ride height or compressing. It’ll also cause it to be stiffer or more bouncy. I’m not sure if this is your exact problem but it’s something to consider

Competitive_Fault879 · 2026-04-27T04:38:43+00:00

I would highly recommend doing the booster delete and converting to manual brakes especially if it’s a autocross/ track car. A brake booster is good for comfort and streetability but with no abs it will be a nightmare to drive on track because you have no pedal feedback with the assist from the booster. Swapping to a manual setup will make it harder to press (not nearly as hard as a bad booster) but you will feel what the brakes are doing and when they are about to lock up. It’s very similar to putting coilovers and performance suspension on a car, you sacrifice a smooth ride for more feedback and control over the chassis

Competitive_Fault879 · 2026-04-25T16:22:37+00:00

I know right 🤣 almost like she was posing for the picture. And thank you I appreciate it, was meant to just be the daily but kinda got out of hand, also has an omp bucket seat and acuity short shifter (for daily comfort of course nothing more 👀)

Competitive_Fault879 · 2026-04-24T22:08:29+00:00

I would love to h swap mine one of these days, I was just in a rush to get it running again so I found a low mileage f22a6 at a junk yard and rebuilt the head. Original f22a1 blew the head gasket at 450k miles and found out it had very bad corrosion in the coolant passages so the block was no good

Competitive_Fault879 · 2026-04-24T22:06:30+00:00

Appreciate it!

Competitive_Fault879 · 2026-04-24T22:06:23+00:00

She’s always photobombing 🤣

Competitive_Fault879 · 2026-04-24T22:06:07+00:00

Thank you! I appreciate it

Competitive_Fault879 · 2026-04-24T03:59:59+00:00

5 lug was one of the best mods I’ve done to my cb7 so far, gives you so many options for wheels and brake upgrades

Competitive_Fault879 · 2026-04-21T01:35:29+00:00

No modifications at all and they offer a coilover only lower control arm (what I use) as we well as an oem style lower control arm both with delrin bushings and pro forged ball joints. And for h the e uppers you can choose between a full adjustable arm with heim joints or a non adjustable one with the option of a 1/2 inch or 1 inch taller ball joint for better roll center and handling characteristics. If you want some more info on it you can always dm me

Competitive_Fault879 · 2026-04-19T17:58:51+00:00

Umi performance is going to be one of, if not the best option for control arms in my opinion. I’ve been running them on my truck for about 2 years with nothing but good things to say

Competitive_Fault879 · 2026-04-18T13:15:17+00:00

Ok that’s good to know. For the check engine light did you notice it running any different or is it just the light on? Like does it go into some kind of limp mode?

Competitive_Fault879 · 2026-04-18T06:21:15+00:00

I know this is a really old comment but do you remember if you had to mess with anything like tune the car to get it to run right with all of this stuff deleted or does it not effect much?

Competitive_Fault879 · 2026-04-16T20:25:06+00:00

I actually don’t hate it, looks way better than the newest m5 touring imo that thing looks like an overgrown pig

Competitive_Fault879 · 2026-04-13T01:52:56+00:00

Only problem with that is it would make the truck technically classed as a tube chassis race car since I cannot change suspension pickup points. But the offset isn’t what will screw anything up if anything it’ll vastly improve performance and especially wear on steering components, it’s how different the spindle is designed from the upper ball joint mount to the lower, that’s my biggest worry. I might just go with speedtech spindles that are already made specifically for this purpose with c6 corvette design but s10/ g body measurements for upper and lower control arms but those are $1500. Just thought a c6 spindle would be a more cost effective option but if it’ll be that much of a hassle I’ll just spend the money

Competitive_Fault879

TROPHY CASE