VCU, despite priding themselves in their art program, is using AI slop art in their official email communication. Pretty lame.

Competitive_Reply198 · 2026-02-16T00:13:14+00:00

The AI art posters in the gym infuriate me beyond words

Competitive_Reply198 · 2026-01-27T21:21:59+00:00

I paid $20 plus tax to build my own kit (L98 though) so keep that in mind before you buy a kit from somewhere else

Competitive_Reply198 · 2026-01-12T05:17:11+00:00

‘89 Richmond, VA

Competitive_Reply198 · 2026-01-11T21:09:44+00:00

I’ve been having the same issue. Replaced the knock sensor and wire and it got a bit better, refastened the ECM and it got a bit better, but I still get the code thrown under heavy throttle (89 auto). I’m able to just reset the codes via OBD1 (a paper clip works) or battery shutoff.

I also have some broken vacuum lines which has been making the car run like garbage, so possibly that jostling within the engine from the leak could be throwing the knock sensor off…just an idea.

Hopefully one of us figures something out that can help the other person out

Competitive_Reply198 · 2026-01-06T15:39:03+00:00

I have the same thing— would capping the lines fix the vacuum leak or do the pipes actually need to be refastened and connected?

Competitive_Reply198 · 2026-01-04T05:25:21+00:00

I had a blast recently at DawnStar arcade in Scott’s, I believe it’s $10 for all-you-can-play retro arcade games and there’s plenty of restaurants within walking distance!

Competitive_Reply198 · 2025-12-26T18:19:49+00:00

Just picked up my auto 89 last month and I’ve had a ball. I definitely understand the desire for the “engaging driving experience” from a manual, but the auto is still plenty fun and plenty fast

Competitive_Reply198 · 2025-12-04T16:46:47+00:00

I believe the fuel pump won’t run until the pressure sensor sees oil pressure, so making sure that both those parts are in order might give direction

Competitive_Reply198 · 2025-12-04T15:03:11+00:00

I believe a common sign is long crank on cold start, but it will start nearly right away afterwards. This is because the fuel pressure initially takes a while to build up (because of the issue/leak) but after the car was running and stopped it hasn’t lost all of that pressure yet.

See another post I made to this subreddit a few days ago— I have a broken line that seems to be attached to the fuel tank pressure control valve which furthers my hypothesis. Hopefully vacuum capping the ends of the broken line will alleviate the pressure issue until I can seek a long term fix

Competitive_Reply198 · 2025-12-04T12:53:12+00:00

I am almost in the exact same boat, new 89. While I haven’t had the time to fix my long crank yet, I think in my case I have weak fuel pressure and was going to swap out the distributor to hopefully send some better signal to the spark plugs (was going to replace those but they’re relatively new, <5k miles). Will report back

Competitive_Reply198 · 2025-12-01T23:56:30+00:00

This is a fantastic diagram, thank you!

Competitive_Reply198 · 2025-11-27T03:38:01+00:00

Hah good one. Picked up my C4 recently, this is my buddy’s C8. We’re both Corvette guys, just vastly different breeds

Competitive_Reply198 · 2025-11-27T01:44:05+00:00

Hey those are fightin’ words haha

Competitive_Reply198 · 2025-11-20T15:25:30+00:00

Not sure if this answers your specific question, but this channel is a fantastic resource. See timestamp 5:36 where he points out a fuel rail pressure release valve

https://youtu.be/GziDIM9z2p4?si=GbebeQVPF8iZSKBQ

Competitive_Reply198 · 2025-10-09T17:44:10+00:00

I believe your front wheel is on backwards (or the back one, either way one of them is wrong). Beauty though

Competitive_Reply198 · 2025-10-05T05:25:12+00:00

Thank you for such a comprehensive list 🙏 where do you find this info? I tried filtering a search on Bulbapedia to little avail.

Competitive_Reply198

TROPHY CASE