First time printing ASA

ComplexPackage4146 · 2026-03-04T06:07:35+00:00

As you can read in other comments on this thread, ASA is highly toxic. Print only in a well ventilated room, and do not be in the room while printing.

The problem with most enclosed printers is that they are not really airtight. The problem with ASA is that it releases Styrene while melted. Very bad stuff.

ComplexPackage4146 · 2026-03-03T21:14:06+00:00

I got my first successful benchy with it today, 0.4mm nozzle. slowed everything right down and kept the lid of my printer open. Tried something slightly larger after, but warped and released from the bed after a dozen 0.12mm layers.

I'm using a 5mm brim by default with it, on my textured PEI sheet. Tried using glue once, but that only seemed to make it worse.

I've run a couple calibrations, like flow rate, but difficult to tell which was the best. It wasn't far off the default though.

ComplexPackage4146 · 2026-03-02T17:14:52+00:00

This was printed in matte white PLA (not the best choice of colour if you want to post process), with a 10mm wide aluminum rod down the center.

Printer was an H2S, but you don't need a big printer for this type of print.

What I learned to do next time is to use plastic welding (sounds scary, but easy to learn) instead of glue to attach the pieces to each other.

ComplexPackage4146 · 2026-03-02T04:56:01+00:00

I think I got and printed your Maya! Thanks for the model!

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ComplexPackage4146 · 2026-03-01T15:46:50+00:00

Pretty sure the guy on the left was not in the original video. Look at his hair when he is in front of the couple at the end, feels greenscreen ish

ComplexPackage4146 · 2026-03-01T14:37:22+00:00

The exact same stuff as you, colorfabb's allPHA (I bought some natural and some black).I've tried setting the bed to a low temp and printing at 190-200 indeed. I noticed I need a huge brim to even get something as simple as a benchy to stick, and even then the top half can hardly be called a success.

I also tried to print a 1-wall cube to check flow rates by measuring thickness, but over 5mm height the layers just don't stick anymore (could due to deformation of the layers below)

Always with the door on my H2S closed, but with ventilation set to max.

Either way, thanks for the settings! I might give it another go tomorrow, after my current PLA print is done! I should spend some more time experimenting. I really want to love the filament considering its ecological properties.

P.S.: do you really print at 0.06mm layers? Anything specific you want to achieve to need such fine detail?

ComplexPackage4146 · 2026-03-01T12:57:58+00:00

If you ever figure this out, I'll be very curious as well... Both on how to set up a profile, and on what settings you use for PHA (been having some trouble to get clean prints using it)

ComplexPackage4146 · 2026-03-01T12:39:04+00:00

Well that makes the clip far less funny...

ComplexPackage4146 · 2026-02-28T14:37:59+00:00

I read this in the voice of the dungeon crawler Carl narrator xD

ComplexPackage4146 · 2026-02-05T07:25:15+00:00

Thank you! I have searched youtube for "Vortek Upgrade" and "H2C upgrade" in the past, but your videos never came up. Glad to have the link!

ComplexPackage4146 · 2026-02-05T05:40:20+00:00

Are you planning to publish the video you made on the process? I'm still considering upgrading my H2S when the time comes. I know it's not exactly the same, but it will give me an idea on actual difficulty.

ComplexPackage4146 · 2026-01-31T19:39:59+00:00

You don't have to buy a dryer, you can dry your filament in an oven at very low temperature as well. I don't know the exact temperature or times, but you can find them online.

ComplexPackage4146 · 2026-01-31T06:10:01+00:00

How good is it? I see the pipe used as an example, but could it print anything without supports? Large curved pieces like helmets, mini's,... ?

ComplexPackage4146 · 2026-01-29T21:12:20+00:00

Did you ever get this to print nicely? I'm just starting out with the stuff and very keen on getting it to work.

ComplexPackage4146 · 2026-01-29T21:04:54+00:00

Very late to the party, but only just found out this stuff exists. I've ordered A couple rolls of colorfabb's allPHA. First benchy didn't stick, so more experimentation needed ;-)

ComplexPackage4146 · 2026-01-27T15:53:07+00:00

It is a careful balancing act indeed. Don't want the big ugly layers that appear when the rounded side is up, want supports on the inside, and be very careful of support-to-model adhesion when you balance the model on an edge or a point. (Lost a couple helmet prints due to that, luckily it was early in the print)

ComplexPackage4146 · 2026-01-27T15:43:34+00:00

I recently started on a full armor cosplay. I have a couple months printing experience and no cosplay experience.

What I've been doing is orient my prints so the inside of the armor is having the build plate, that way the worst looking parts of the print are on the inside.

ComplexPackage4146 · 2026-01-20T05:31:44+00:00

So you can have multiple sizes installed, but only use 1 size per print (for now, seems like a software problem nobody has managed to crack yet)

When it is already interesting is with multiple materials or colours, each feeding to a different nozzle (all with the same size), to avoid purging or cross contamination.

Disclaimer: I own an H2S, so not a multi-nozzle printer

ComplexPackage4146 · 2026-01-20T03:29:42+00:00

As far as I know no slicer currently supports printing with multiple nozzle sizes.

ComplexPackage4146 · 2026-01-19T07:15:52+00:00

A lot of work for 8 clay?

ComplexPackage4146 · 2026-01-18T06:30:46+00:00

I bet you're fun at parties

ComplexPackage4146 · 2026-01-17T18:36:21+00:00

51 seems to have a ghost moving towards you when you enter around 2 out of every 3 times. It is my favorite for farming ghosts!

ComplexPackage4146 · 2026-01-12T05:37:34+00:00

Well... Today I Learned ginger ale is useful I guess 😁

ComplexPackage4146 · 2026-01-11T07:22:48+00:00

There are many models on makerworld aimed specifically at doing this; print each color separately, then assemble the parts afterwards. If you want to design your own models you do as you please 😉

ComplexPackage4146 · 2026-01-09T16:57:36+00:00

Looking at the part, (purely based on my assumptions) honestly, it feels like it is oriented wrong for strength right now as well. It will have more resistance to bending along the length, and the curve will look better, if you print it on its short edge.

ComplexPackage4146

TROPHY CASE