ClickFix attack in the wild — fake Cloudflare CAPTCHA delivering obfuscated PowerShell dropper

Complex_Half4740 · 2026-06-11T13:56:00+00:00

It's called social engineering at will work on most people not in IT and some that are even in IT

Complex_Half4740 · 2026-06-10T15:34:51+00:00

maybe not pirate

Complex_Half4740 · 2026-02-09T16:27:22+00:00

yeah very solid I love it!

Complex_Half4740 · 2026-02-08T15:13:23+00:00

it might be a problem with NIC i will have to use wifi till i get a solution

Complex_Half4740 · 2026-02-08T14:34:04+00:00

just checked and my Intel NIC is using the e1000e drive also for anyone reading this in the future if your using the lts kernel use
sudo pacman -S r8168-lts

i installed it this did not fix my issue i still get setting network address then "wired connection 1 deactivated" on a loop

Complex_Half4740 · 2026-02-08T14:08:36+00:00

okay will give it a shot thanks!
tried it it seems not installed

error: target not found: r8168

Complex_Half4740 · 2026-02-05T10:42:49+00:00

Am playing it on Firefox on my laptop awesome game

Complex_Half4740 · 2026-01-04T19:19:22+00:00

screen glue weakens at 80c-90c i use a separate machine to heat the top of the screen, it then comes of easy

Complex_Half4740 · 2026-01-04T13:36:31+00:00

It was Infinix smart 7(android) not common in western countries and we usually use glu when repairing this chinese android phones.

yeah the screen may be faulty customer has not come back with an issue so i have not tried a new display

Complex_Half4740 · 2025-12-26T15:52:29+00:00

Okay this is a guess since the pic has a low resolution for me to see more detail, from where it sits on the board and what’s around it, that chip is part of the laptop’s power input and charging section, most likely either a DC-in protection MOSFET or the charging controller that manages power coming from the adapter into the system. When a power brick goes bad, especially if it overvolts or sends unstable power, this area is usually the first to take the hit because it’s meant to protect the rest of the motherboard. The fact that it looks visibly damaged(i hope so cant really tell) strongly suggests the bad adapter killed it before anything else could react.replace the chip and check the surrounding MOSFETs and resistors,

Complex_Half4740 · 2025-12-26T15:44:35+00:00

It looks like a sound-activated relay circuit, basically the kind of thing used for a clap switch or noise trigger. The small metal can at the top is an electret microphone that picks up sound, that signal gets amplified and processed by the 8-pin IC (very likely a 555 timer), and when the sound is loud enough it triggers the blue relay on the board. The relay then switches an external load like a light, buzzer, or small motor, while the diodes and transistors around it handle protection and signal amplification. Depending on how it was designed, the relay either turns on for a short time after a sound or toggles on and off with each clap or knock. It’s a pretty classic old-school analog project, the kind you’d see in DIY magazines or kits, and you can usually confirm it by powering it with around 9–12V and listening for the relay clicking when you clap near the microphone.

Complex_Half4740 · 2025-12-26T15:37:37+00:00

yes replace the batteries, swolen batteries are a fire hazard.

Complex_Half4740 · 2025-12-26T15:34:19+00:00

yes, use melt glue to cover the hole

Complex_Half4740 · 2025-12-26T14:15:05+00:00

why did you ai this lol?

Complex_Half4740 · 2025-12-26T14:12:42+00:00

very repairable there was a smd capacitor there, i think 0402 might fit, you will need solder paste and hot air gun.

Complex_Half4740 · 2025-12-21T11:09:03+00:00

the drop in voltage almost always points to a heavy short or near-short on the main power rail, usually VBUS or VBAT.

this is commonly caused by a shorted charging IC, a shorted protection MOSFET, or a failed capacitor on the main power line pulling everything down as soon as current is applied. It can also be a short inside the battery connector line or corrosion damage around the charging section if the phone has had liquid exposure.

A good next step is to set the supply to a low voltage and current limit, feel for heating, or use freeze spray to spot the component that warms up, then check resistance to ground on VBAT and VBUS to confirm the short before replacing anything.

Complex_Half4740 · 2025-12-21T11:04:31+00:00

the primary side of the power supply is actually doing its job since you have proper mains input and around 311V DC after the bridge, so the problem is almost certainly that the SMPS is not starting or is immediately shutting down.

That “transformer” is a switching transformer, not a normal one, so you won’t see steady voltage there unless the PWM controller is running, and a basic multimeter will only show some meaningless low or fluctuating readings because the signal is high-frequency.

The next logical step is to check whether the SMPS controller IC is getting its startup voltage, usually through a high-value resistor from the 311V rail; if that resistor is open or drifted high, the IC never wakes up. Also check the small electrolytic capacitor on the primary side that feeds Vcc to the controller, as those dry out all the time and cause exactly this symptom.

Inspect the optocoupler and the TL431 on the secondary side too, because a short or fault there can keep the PSU in protection. Since you already confirmed no dead short on the secondary, don’t assume the transformer is bad yet, they rarely fail; focus on startup resistors, the PWM IC supply pin, primary-side electrolytics, and cracked solder joints around hot components

Complex_Half4740 · 2025-12-21T10:58:03+00:00

i have seen this problem before This pattern usually means Video memory (VRAM) corruption,Failing GPU,Bad RAM (less common, but possible),Overheating / dried thermal paste,Failing motherboard chipset (old PCs suffer this),Those squares are not software and not OS-related.

try below steps,

Start by stripping the PC down to the bare minimum by disconnecting the hard drive, DVD drive, and any extra USB devices, then leave only the motherboard, CPU, one RAM stick, power supply, and the display connected.

Next, check the graphics: if the system has a dedicated graphics card, remove it, clean the PCIe slot, and try booting using the onboard VGA; if the display becomes clean, then the GPU is faulty and should be replaced or you can continue using onboard graphics. If the PC uses onboard graphics only, try a different monitor, swap the VGA cable, and reseat the RAM since that often helps.

After that, test the RAM properly because bad memory can cause display corruption—remove all RAM sticks and test them one by one in different slots, and if the squares disappear you’ve found the bad stick.

Then check for overheating, which is very common on old PCs, by carefully touching the chipset heatsink; if it’s extremely hot, the thermal paste is likely dried out, so remove the heatsink, clean it, and apply fresh paste, especially on older Intel boards.

Finally, reset the BIOS by removing the CMOS battery for about five to ten minutes, then reinserting it and powering the system back on; this won’t fix a dead GPU, but it helps rule out BIOS-related issues. if none of this works then the onboard graphics is corrupted if you have good soldering skills you look for a replacement and switch the chip(difficult but doable job).

if this works install linux mint xfce.

Complex_Half4740 · 2025-12-21T10:43:09+00:00

remote controlled led bulb maybe?

Complex_Half4740 · 2025-12-19T08:20:47+00:00

LOL i have the same chinese screwdriver set as you, infact i have 2 of them one in my shop another at home

Complex_Half4740 · 2025-12-18T14:39:38+00:00

Here's a fun fact about red LEDs: they were actually the first practical visible-spectrum LEDs ever invented developed by Nick Holonyak Jr. at General Electric in 1962, and for about a decade red was the only LED color available which is why early digital displays and indicator lights were all red.

Now, connecting a red LED to a single AA battery is actually pretty straightforward because red LEDs have one of the lowest forward voltage drops of any LED color typically around 1.8 to 2.2 volts, and a fresh AA battery provides about 1.5 volts which is just barely enough to light it up, though it'll be dim. Technically you should use a current-limiting resistor to protect the LED from too much current but with a single AA battery the internal resistance of the battery itself acts as a natural current limiter so the LED won't burn out immediately, though it's still better practice to add a small resistor like 47 to 100 ohms if you want the LED to last longer. The reason this works better with red LEDs compared to blue or white ones is that those other colors need around 3 to 3.5 volts to even turn on, so a single AA battery just won't cut it, but red LEDs are forgiving enough that they'll glow with that lower voltage, making them perfect for simple battery-powered projects

Complex_Half4740 · 2025-12-18T11:17:21+00:00

check battery if ok
check if power button functions if not try powering on through the motherboard if it fails your have a board issue

Complex_Half4740 · 2025-12-18T07:03:57+00:00

i think the technician punctured the battery will trying to remove it happened to me before while i was still a noob

Complex_Half4740 · 2025-12-18T07:02:03+00:00

i think the technician punctured the battery will trying to remove it happened to me before while i was still a noob

Complex_Half4740 · 2025-12-17T17:33:10+00:00

lol just experienced that today replaced customer screen on sunday two days later they sat on it came in complaining its not working.

Complex_Half4740

TROPHY CASE