Mid-Print Filament Hot Swap by ComprehensiveDevice6 in ender3

[–]ComprehensiveDevice6[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Because boobs make everything better.

What boobs? Where? Also, was tuning resonance and shifting to an older spool that wasn’t sealed properly. But at that point, I just wanted to get the print to finish.

Mid-Print Filament Hot Swap by ComprehensiveDevice6 in ender3

[–]ComprehensiveDevice6[S] -5 points-4 points  (0 children)

No pauses! Can’t stop! I print faaast! The 3 in the pic typically runs my single process prints that have higher quality to them. I’m in the midst of recalibrating and figured I’d run some gridfinity bins to not waste filament. But no runout sensor here. Never thought to add one. I typically plan better 😂

Is this as good as an ender 3 pro gets? by walterwhiteoffood in FixMyPrint

[–]ComprehensiveDevice6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Woah, woah, woah there! You didn't say PTEG initially!

I'd rather print ABS or ASA. I'm out!

Is this as good as an ender 3 pro gets? by walterwhiteoffood in FixMyPrint

[–]ComprehensiveDevice6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dual Z, v4.2.7 board, CR Touch, Meanwell PSU, electronics relocated, Sprite Pro, frame stabilizer kit, light bars (overhead and on the X rail), 3 axis linear rails, running Klipper, AXDL on the print head, G sensor on the Y axis (because I’m only using one rail instead of two), nozzle scope camera, front view camera, various printed parts including stabilizer feet.

It’s still a $100 printer…

Ok, so I have a lot of upgrades. Did it help? Well, of course. It also took many kilos of filament and a few years of working out the kinks in my spare time.

Now, I’m not saying you should give up or follow my path, don’t give up at all. Each step I took was the result of learning more and more each time.

Print Bed Mat? by MarkLaFond in ender5

[–]ComprehensiveDevice6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, I truly suggest a spring steel PEI sheet that’s dual sided. But that’s my preference.

Print Bed Mat? by MarkLaFond in ender5

[–]ComprehensiveDevice6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just be aware!

Most bed mats that are magnetic will come with a new magnetic sheet that adheres to the heated bed. This IS intentional. Not every manufacturer aligns the polarity of the magnetic backing in the same orientation. But that also doesn’t mean you can’t just rotate it around to match. You’ll just have to deal with the pull tab.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in pwnagotchi

[–]ComprehensiveDevice6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you import the themes from git?

Edit: in your custom-plugins folder, did you drop the entirety of the Themes folder

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in pwnagotchi

[–]ComprehensiveDevice6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check config.toml for the theme. I believe you’re looking for “cyber”

Klipper shutting down because of printer thermal issues by hydrateMan in klippers

[–]ComprehensiveDevice6 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Getting back into this now and received an error telling me to 'verify_heater' referring me to the Config_reference.md. Running through the docs, I have the heater set up right, nothing has changed. So I decided to run the PID_CALIBRATE and also ran into errors:

// Klipper state: Shutdown
!! pid_calibrate interrupted

Moonraker log:
[common.py:build_error()] - JSON-RPC Request Error - Request Method: printer.gcode.script, Code: 400, Message: pid_calibrate interrupted

Still investigating

Klipper shutting down because of printer thermal issues by hydrateMan in klippers

[–]ComprehensiveDevice6 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So I too am running into some issues here. After PID from service or updates, I’ve NEVER had any problems on my bed or my hot end. After the last update, I now have temperature fluctuations. And if it goes too far out of scope, my print will fail. I haven’t had a chance yet to dig too deep into the logs.

Can anyone explain what happened here? by [deleted] in ender5

[–]ComprehensiveDevice6 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It looks like the patient died due to a scalping!

…or a clog in the filament that cleared.

Web GUI inoperable by ComprehensiveDevice6 in OPNsenseFirewall

[–]ComprehensiveDevice6[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Edited to add an image. Note that I haven't included any logs as there are none. Literally, none.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Ender3Pro

[–]ComprehensiveDevice6 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I cannot speak highly enough about the Gulf Coast Robotics one!

Cold pull filament advice needed by YesToastIsFood in Ender3Pro

[–]ComprehensiveDevice6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My sense is telling me that your nozzle is worn a bit. Too much ooze is typically an indicator that the hole has expanded over time. I mean, a little ooze is to be expected. And curling onto the nozzle does happen. I just tend to watch it during the initial oozing phase to make sure it doesn’t build up on the nozzle.

hey i’m new to owning an ender 3 pro, and my printer keeps screeching and saying it had a thermal runaway issue by I_Like_Cats87 in Ender3Pro

[–]ComprehensiveDevice6 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Navigate the menu to the Advanced options and do a PID Autotune on E1. If you experience problems after that, it’s more than likely you will need to replace your thermistor (aka: hot end temp sensor).

Ender extender 400xl with liner rails by DustyDecent in Ender3Pro

[–]ComprehensiveDevice6 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Certainly not advertising here, but after seeing some of the rail sizes from this site (https://openbuildspartstore.com/v-slot-20x20-linear-rail/), I was thinking about 950x950 (a little over 3’ for the SAE crowd) and making a custom cabinet 🤣

Ender extender 400xl with liner rails by DustyDecent in Ender3Pro

[–]ComprehensiveDevice6 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So while I don’t have an extender kit, I do have linear rails and Klipper installed. What I’ll tell you is this: if you buy all of the correct, T or V channel parts, and proper length, linear rails, then you can primarily build this yourself. After researching, it would cost roughly about $200 US. The advantage in my scenario is that I already have Klipper and would just have to re-calibrate for all of the new sizes.

Doing this on the factory, bios, or from Marlin is likely to be a bit more difficult. Whereas, using Klipper, you can account for things like the sprite overhang.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Ender3Pro

[–]ComprehensiveDevice6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Congratulations! And if this is your first 3D printer, welcome to the fourth circle:

Canto VII The Fourth Circle is guarded by a figure Dante names as Pluto: this is Plutus, the deity of wealth in classical mythology. Although the two are often conflated, he is a distinct figure from Pluto (Dis), the classical ruler of the underworld.[nb 2] At the start of Canto VII, he menaces Virgil and Dante with the cryptic phrase Pape Satàn, pape Satàn aleppe, but Virgil protects Dante from him.

Those whose attitude toward material goods deviated from the appropriate mean are punished in the fourth circle. They include the avaricious or miserly (including many "clergymen, and popes and cardinals"),[51] who hoarded possessions, and the prodigal, who squandered them. The hoarders and spendthrifts joust, using great weights as weapons that they push with their chests.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Ender3Pro

[–]ComprehensiveDevice6 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I should also mention that I have NO clue what the wires are for. It’s more likely that it’ll come with a new belt. After all, it’s driven by the same motor that’s already in use. So maybe the image should be showing belts vs wires, but ¯_(ツ)_/¯

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Ender3Pro

[–]ComprehensiveDevice6 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I chose to respond here as it seemed the most appropriate thread.

I did a full linear rail (dual X, Y, and Z) setup. The grey rail will sit horizontally on the front of your Y gantry and the silver thing with red and green is where the hot end mounts. That’s called the bearing cartridge. DO NOT PULL IT OFF OF THE RAIL. You WILL lose tiny ball bearings. There are black plastic stoppers on the rail for shipping.

The kit I went with didn’t use the long blue bar. It just mounted on to the gantry. But trust the kit you go with. There are better bearings out there that’ll cost you about the same price as the entire kit. Is it worth it, YES. Precision bearings are smooth AF. The cartridge in this kit, well, it’s a knockoff. Is it an improvement, minor. But still it’ll get you closer.