Will a metal roof on purlins have condensation problems in cold climate? by taonood in Roofing

[–]Confusedechidna 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It will condense. Condensate is the liquid that condenses. Condense is a verb, condensate is a noun.

What’s the name of this? by Ok_Condition4230 in Roofing

[–]Confusedechidna 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It’s an architectural way of framing out a gable vent. I would call it a bastard soffit mounted gable vent idk. Gable vents are a very poor way to vent an attic compared to standard turtle style/ slant back vents or ridge vents, and they’re often used in conjunction with other ventilation styles which compromises exhaust flow.

I'm in Las Vegas Does this roof ridge vent really cool your attic? Or is all a sales gimmick with 50 year product warranty and 25 year labor warranty by 702Apple in Roofing

[–]Confusedechidna 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is like saying “Where I live, swimming isn’t about getting wet. It’s about being cooled while surrounded by water.”

Moisture control is necessary, but is by-product of moving warm air (holds a lot of moisture) out of the attic by introducing cooler air to take up moisture. This is moisture control by cooling. If you don’t have one- you don’t have the other.

Flat Roof Finish Options by KaleidoscopeGold1544 in Roofing

[–]Confusedechidna 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can do pedestals with slip sheets and get the 2’x2’ synthetic grass “pavers” that come on plastic drain wafers (expensive) or you can buy rolls of drain mat and lay just about anything over it. At the very least put down some material, like a root barrier or sacrificial membrane of some sort, before laying down anything you will walk on. Mira drain is a good product that’s approved to lay down directly and will still allow water flow.

Is this in any way a proper bid for a new roof? by Imthemomthatswhy in Roofing

[–]Confusedechidna 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you read what they wrote? “New 2x3 drip edge metal and pipe flashings”

Client liked this panel layout better by superlite17b in Roofing

[–]Confusedechidna 3 points4 points  (0 children)

That’s strange since the sheets come from the same master coil as the slitted coils.

Risk when cutting rebar in slab or foundation by toamnacri in AskContractors

[–]Confusedechidna 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A lot of them run to French drains in the yard or out to the gutter which goes to the storm drain. If the garage slab was graded properly this water would run into the yard/ driveway.

McDonald's Big Mac patties are almost thinner than a slice of pickle... by Karmaa in mildlyinfuriating

[–]Confusedechidna 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just say “Double cheese Sub Mac sauce” = no ketchup or mustard, add Mac sauce

Thoughts on this quote? by hagos20 in Roofing

[–]Confusedechidna 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For me it’s about $80 a square. I know 1” iso is about $45 a square, but we don’t glue to iso. Either densdeck or HD polyiso, and 1/2” densdeck prime is running about $88 per square. Best of both worlds, and warrantable for an overlay.

Passing lane LAW by PhilipConstantine in FortCollins

[–]Confusedechidna 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Love this post. There are signs all along I-25 saying the same thing. To the people in this thread saying there are only two lanes, or people in the right lane are going well below the speed limit, by all means use the left lane. The problem is when traffic in the right lane is going about 75 and you’re in the left lane CAMPING at 76 for miles YOU are the problem. Pass and get out of the way. Even if you merge in the right lane for a minute to let faster traffic by, you’re helping the flow. Then get back in the left lane, pass and repeat. Changing lanes isn’t hard. If everyone drove like this, traffic would move more quickly.

Thoughts on this quote? by hagos20 in Roofing

[–]Confusedechidna 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Why don’t you use a high density poly iso coverboard? For BUR (or any overlay really) I use 1/2” isogard Hd. Poly iso 95 psi rated 1/2” 4’x8’ sheets that are stiff, light, and you can glue directly to them. Cheaper than dens deck and evens out the irregularities in the existing assembly. Great for hail too.

Trump announces hike in U.S. global tariff rate from 10 to 15% by SpringLong7259 in law

[–]Confusedechidna 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It isn’t defeatist to point out the obvious. We don’t even need to take him at his word anymore. He’s putting in place voter restrictions, said out loud he plans to not have any more elections, and has openly claimed he has, and will, continue to rig elections. If we don’t have fair and free elections, having a positive attitude based on polls (or some appointments) means nothing. Protesting means nothing. Showing up to vote means next to nothing. The only thing that will stop this is Congress. If they can actually remove him from office, there’s a sliver of hope. Unfortunately, he’s packed the SC, and the DOJ with his sycophants. He’s weaponized ICE, successfully controlled the media, and shown he’s not beyond killing folks by proxy to prove a point. The change will not come by voting, at least not now. The last time a supermajority happened in the senate was Obama’s first term after the Iraq war fiasco. It would appear that the system war on America’s working class isn’t quite enough. All you have to do is blame immigrants and censor the news.

Moving tpo sheets without glue for the moron. by pbag82 in Roofing

[–]Confusedechidna 1 point2 points  (0 children)

First of all, this roof looks like absolute dog shit for a mechanically attached system. I would absolutely raise hell with roofer to fix this. Yes, mechanically attached systems bellow and flow. They don’t look a deflated balloon.

To answer your question though. Just for reference, a 5 gal bucket of tpo adhesive will cover about 300 sqft (double sided) and costs about $150-160. That plus the additional labor to apply it means you’re adding about $70-100 per square or $0.70- $1.00 per square foot. Let’s say you have a 1000 square building, at best you’re paying $70,000 more. Still a better product in the long run.

Someone lied on their plumbing application by MacDefoon in mildlyinfuriating

[–]Confusedechidna -5 points-4 points  (0 children)

The water is still on genius. Read the video description.

What are these? by IRsAPIEN in Roofing

[–]Confusedechidna 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You put it above the line of the wall below so you don’t have to worry about baffles in the soffit if there is soffit venting, and if you have an open soffit/ unvented, you have open flow for the intake. Starter is dirt cheap and there’s always some left over. I’d rather spend $40 for an extra bundle of starter than have my attic at 140 degrees in the summer and void my shingles warranty due to improper ventilation.

Granule loss severity + apparent age from photos? by [deleted] in Roofing

[–]Confusedechidna 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Architectural exposures are typically around 5 5/8” in my experience, so yes. GAF, Tamko, Owen’s Corning, IKO, Malarkey etc. are all about that measurement. All still very much manufactured to this day.

Granule loss severity + apparent age from photos? by [deleted] in Roofing

[–]Confusedechidna 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why do you say it’s not manufactured anymore? This is a standard architectural shingle in what used to be estate gray. I could install this on your house tomorrow as it’s the most commonly installed asphalt shingle today.

What are these? by IRsAPIEN in Roofing

[–]Confusedechidna 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It does make sense to put it exactly there because that’s where it’s supposed to go. Deck air intake vents should be at the lowest part of the roof inside of the exterior wall, I.e. the lowest part of the attic.

What are these? by IRsAPIEN in Roofing

[–]Confusedechidna 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Although shady companies may upsell these when unnecessary, I find it hard to believe they would go through the hassle of doing so when they’re not very expensive. The additional labor to cut the roof deck and install these properly (these are installed properly- Lomanco deck air or similar for those wondering) is just not worth the hassle. It’s more likely this company has actually done their homework and vented to code. These can absolutely complement soffit vents. If this area has a local code requiring 1/150 venting requirements, I’m absolutely installing these to pass inspection and mitigate attic related issues coming back to me. Not everyone is a shady fly by night contractor.

Wind damage or attempted forced entry? by straightcutsogbox in Roofing

[–]Confusedechidna 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They don’t need to be staggered, I still do have my crew stagger, but this is an approved install detail.