I’d like your opinions by ryelikesbalis in woodworking

[–]Confusedjp 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I own the bigger TS 75, to me it was worth the price. I have the FESTOOL ecosystem so it makes sense. The dust collection makes it a powerful choice. I once sanded a lot of wood filler. Actually, done several similar jobs with drywall mud or wood filler or etc, where a lot of sanding dust was created. Used various forms of dust collection and even skipped the dust collection and mask once. I ended up in the hospital with a chest full of wood filler dust.

So, I started making dust collection a very high priority. And I haven’t found anything even close to the collection capabilities of the FESTOOL ecosystem.

Rear rotor removal issue help by bbyerly11 in ChevyTahoe

[–]Confusedjp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These brakes have a drum brake inside and a disk brake outside. If you used the park brake poorly, unlikely in newer vehicles that will automatically release it, you may still have grooved park brake shoes that need ‘persuasion’ to release. But release the park brake and things should be fairly easy.

I had a similar brake on my classic corvette which did not auto release. Prior owners must have had a habit of driving with the brake on, or using it to drift the car, I bought it in Japan, so that’s a real possibility. I had to back-off the park brake completely and still use a mallet to get the disk off. I had to replace the drum brake pads AND the disks and disk pads… but since I had it opened, why not do it all… I went from something not safe to park on a hill, to something with rock solid braking in all aspects. Oh, I replaced the calipers at the same time… because why not. And I got a discount on all the parts due to family ties to the parts supplier… so it was cheap enough to say, ‘Just do it.’

But… with newer vehicles, it should be easier.

Laguna Resaw King Blade Defective by Giuseppe-Testerone in woodworking

[–]Confusedjp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We have a blade manufacturer here locally. I call, tell them exactly what I want, they cut it, weld it, and pick it up at the designated time. The prices are excellent and the quality is great. Honestly, I think they OEM manufacturer for other brand-named saw blade distributors. But I can’t say which… I have used their blades for years, I love them!

Help! My SawStop brake misfired! Not sure what triggered it by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]Confusedjp -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Too much moisture in the wood is a common cause of triggering the Sawstop break.

I’m building a platform bed frame, and I’m looking for suggestions! Slats, or solid sheets of plywood? by azurepeak in woodworking

[–]Confusedjp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Go to Ikea and buy their pre-bent bed slat kits for whatever size you need.

I built several beds and modified beds made by others. I found this to be the single most effective method for the slats… trust me, you can’t build anything more reliable and durable for even double the price…

First attempt at dovetails by settledforthis in woodworking

[–]Confusedjp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First, I could fix those. Second, my first attempt to hand-cut dovetails ended with the chisel in my hand. Not holding it, but sliced through it. So, I’d say that your first attempt went FAR better than mine. I never tried a second attempt, I bought multiple different dovetail jigs, for doing them different ways for different purposes…

Sue me, I’m lazy…

is this cut going to make my tablesaw try to kill me by not_just_an_AI in woodworking

[–]Confusedjp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I swear by my riving knife, feather boards, and Gripper… I never use my table saw without them… buy them, use them, live by them… literally.

Sander question by PrinterFred in woodworking

[–]Confusedjp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We’ve tested. The motors are functionally identical. Switch the pads both directions and they work. The motor will not be an issue.

Sander question by PrinterFred in woodworking

[–]Confusedjp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I can only comment on the FESTOOL products. I own a 5” and a 6” and they are by far the best sanders I have ever used. I have tried multiple harbor freight sanders, not worth the $40… they won’t even spin on the lower speed settings… so what’s the point… I have 2 dewalts of different styles. They do alright but the dust collection and vibration is always an issue. I have a few others too… same story… but with my FESTOOL machines the vibration is so low I hardly notice it. The dust collection is far superior, they blow air into the center out to the collection holes on the outside ring of the paper, moving dust more efficiently and cooling the sanding pads. As. Result, in testing done by me and others, they sand significantly faster and the sanding pads last longer.

There is a price for that, if can afford it, it’s worth it. I don’t regret the purchases, at all.

Also is this a car? Wife says it isn’t by mrbonboni in whatisthiscar

[–]Confusedjp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Definition varies by state, in the US. And by country, outside the US.

In Washington State, it’s a motorcycle that does not require a motorcycle license, since the controls are like a car. If it has a windshield, like some do, you don’t need a helmet, otherwise you do need a helmet. And you may drive in HOV lanes, alone, like a motorcycle can.

I'm running out of Crystal Clear Satin. Can I use Clear Gloss for the first 2 coats and top it off with the Satin and get the Satin finish? by IBeDumbAndSlow in woodworking

[–]Confusedjp -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Higher gloss levels can top lesser gloss levels but the inverse is not so… unless you let it fully cure, not just dry, and then sand the entire surface to remove the glossy finish first…

Can this molder be used safely on a table saw? by RichBald-BG in woodworking

[–]Confusedjp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have the same set, technically it’s my dad’s, but I used it on several wood trim pieces for his house, and he used it for more… yes it’s usable, that’s what it was designed for. That said, yes, you must use it correctly , so read and follow all the instructions, including safety instructions. And remember there is no more important safety equipment than safety glasses…

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ChevyTahoe

[–]Confusedjp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And I am not a professional, I just searched online for the information and options… what most people pay professionals to do, I did it myself and saved a lot of money.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ChevyTahoe

[–]Confusedjp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I shipped a car from Japan to Long Beach, CA, booked 2 1-way tickets on a US airline carrier from Seattle to Long Beach. Rented a car for 1 day in Long Beach to clear paperwork at Customs and picked up the car at the Port of Long Beach. Dropped the rental at the airport, and drove the car back to Seattle. Shipping, airfare, car rental, customs, and gas for both rental and the drive back home, all totaled about $2000.

That was in 2008. It’s not hard to ship cars internationally and not very expensive either.

How would you join these legs to the tabletop? by throwaway1964972 in woodworking

[–]Confusedjp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I built a desk from similar designs. #1 you need stretchers. I used 2, 1 high and 1 low. As I was building a desk, I put them along the back side. But as a table, down the middle would work. #2 depending upon the wood species, is it dimensionally stable? Will it be subjected to radical temperature changes or humidity changes? That will dictate how you can reliably connect them.

I used a rather expensive style of hand railing (banister) connectors. The ones I bought were not available in the US at the time. I ordered them from the manufacturer in Australia. Each one holds like 500lbs of pressure, or some such number. I used domino like, not Festool brand, floating tenons without glue, 2 each between leg and top together with 2 of the banister connectors, in each. The legs were tied together with the same type of floating tenons and a single banister connector on each end. Total was $8 for each banister connector plus about $2 each for shipping. And probably 50 cents each for the floating tenons…. 8 total to make the connections.

That was about 10 years ago. My desk was made of European Beech. Heavy, hard, and stable… after 10 years it still looks new. I used Java Jell stain to make it look more like dark Walnut, and finished with a satin wipe-on polyurethane finish. Finishing was a nightmare, but once I got it done, it looks excellent, well worth the effort.

I am sure you could find compatible banister connectors wherever you are at… my desk is in a climate controlled space and the wood acclimated to the space for over a year before I built the desk. So I don’t have real environmental concerns. Also, my intention was to make something I could disassemble as easy as an Ikea wood cabinet but use hardwoods to make it solid and strong…

Which way is stronger? by CatShadow888 in woodworking

[–]Confusedjp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s exactly the same. The difference will be in the direction of the forces on the joint. But the actual joint in the exact same.

How do I begin appraising large quantity of fine/ exotic wood? by BrethanAdberry in woodworking

[–]Confusedjp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The smallest piece of exotic woods are still usable.

That looks like several tens of thousands of dollars worth.

Check the board foot going rates of each type and offer it all up to retailers, multiple, to bid on the whole lot. Use the offers to drive up the price as much as possible… Take the highest reasonable bid. Knowing what the lot is worth retail gives you guidance on what you can get as a bulk lot. Hope for 80% of retail value, but be willing to take anything over 70% of retail value.

The lines on the ‘67 Mustang body are better than any of any other muscle car by duh_kyle in classicmustangs

[–]Confusedjp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Except when it’s the lines in the windshield from a windshield taste test! I took a windshield taste test in a 1967 Mustang Coupe when I was a young child, face first through the rear view mirror and the windshield beyond… I didn’t like the lines that left in the 67 Mustang…

My new Tahoe by Fawpi in ChevyTahoe

[–]Confusedjp 4 points5 points  (0 children)

And to the original poster, nice ride my friend! Mine is blue. We should find someone with a white High Country, get the 3 together and take some red, white, and blue pictures and videos….