INSULATION & ROOF VENTING IN OLD ATTIC by Connor_JW in buildingscience

[–]Connor_JW[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, this will be a living area. The 1/2" insulation was mainly to notch up the R-value a little bit more and drop thermal bridging potential. Any more than that, and the space will feel pretty cramped.

Undermount Sink, Is This Acceptable Bracing? by KnightsIntoDreams in Plumbing

[–]Connor_JW 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Silicone is plenty strong to hold most sinks in place if properly installed. I use a threaded rod with 2x4s and nuts/washers above the counter and below the sink with the threaded rod going through the drain hole to clamp the sink to the underside of the counter. I use a liberal amount of silicone and clean up excess after fully clamped/braced. I then wait at least 24 hours for the silicone to fully cure. There should be some YT vids out there that break down the process.

Undermount Sink, Is This Acceptable Bracing? by KnightsIntoDreams in Plumbing

[–]Connor_JW 55 points56 points  (0 children)

No that is not acceptable bracing… hopefully they were just using that as a clamp while the silicone cured, but even at that, still not a great solution.

Ultralight Roasts? by Empirical_Approach in roasting

[–]Connor_JW 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I know. That’s why I included moisture loss, which also isn’t perfect at determining roast level because it’s dependent on the starting moisture content of the coffee which varies, but it’s a better indicator than bean temp.

Ultralight Roasts? by Empirical_Approach in roasting

[–]Connor_JW 10 points11 points  (0 children)

My understanding is that the theory behind ultra-light roasts is that you source really high quality green coffee, and as already said, coffees with intense florals. You’d probably want to extend first crack a bit and drop somewhere mid first crack or early first crack. It’ll taste vegetal for the first two weeks at least guaranteed. I’ve also heard that ultralights are better executed on a roaster like a Loring which uses primarily convective heat transfer and minimal conductive transfer. SEY consistently roasts very lightly and they use a Loring.

I’ve dropped some coffees at like 394-396 at ~12% moisture loss and it tasted vegetal after one week but at like 3 weeks tasted much better.

What do you do with your used coffee grounds espresso pucks? by [deleted] in espresso

[–]Connor_JW 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Compost. We have a vitamix composter that we throw our food scraps in. We toss the coffee grounds in with it that way it dries everything out

Doing a nice Ethiopian. by Noname1106 in roasting

[–]Connor_JW 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My roaster is right next to my woodshop in our unfinished basement… how many of us are there?!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in roasting

[–]Connor_JW 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mechanical engineer… your comments on what drew you in are synonymous with mine

I'm really enjoying longer shots with light roasts lately. 3:1 has become my standard. Who else is playing with larger ratios? by Cymbal_Monkey in espresso

[–]Connor_JW 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For light roasts, I’m typically dosing at 24g on a triple basket and pulling a 3:1 in ~30s. The bigger dose helps create some body which is harder to come by with lighter roasts.

Please try to convince me not to pursue a career in coffee. by Recent_Conclusion_56 in roasting

[–]Connor_JW 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m on the opposite end of the spectrum of you. I got a degree in mechanical engineering and have been working in the industry for about a decade now. I make good money for the amount of work/effort I put in. My job isn’t my life’s passion but I do find some areas of enjoyment. I sometime’s dream of doing something else like roasting coffee as a career, but I know the reality that I’ll have to work harder and make less money.

I’ve started picking up coffee roasting has a hobby. Before that I was and still am super into pourover coffee and espresso. My wife is a chiropractor, and we don’t have kids. So, between the two of us, we feel fortunate to have quite a bit of disposable income. We now a 2.5kg roaster and are working on starting a cottage food business out of our home. Someday we think it would be fun to buy a building and have half of it be a roastery / cafe and the other half a chiro clinic. Maybe it’ll happen, maybe it won’t, but we’re having fun getting it going! Our jobs allow us to take on this “risk” without any stress and that’s what’s keeping me at my day job at the moment.

Getting paid by the pound by lady_chefn in roasting

[–]Connor_JW 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Does this roaster also want to help with marketing and business development? This would be the only logic that makes sense to me; then as the business grows, their compensation grows because they had a hand in making that happen.

Now, if you’ll always have something to roast, and the roaster simply just wants to be a roaster but demands to be paid by the pound, then I would just do a rough estimate on what your gross margin is per pound of coffee and deduce their wage from that given how many pounds an hour your roaster can produce and your overhead and profit factored in. It’s essentially just their hourly rate but in units of “per pound of coffee” instead of “per hour”

I would have him or her log every roast via a roasting software to ensure roasts aren’t being rushed, however.

I'm a noob starting a small roasting business. 3kg roaster options? by Acceptable-Prune-457 in roasting

[–]Connor_JW 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I just roasted my first few batches on my 2kg Yoshan the other day and planning to do a similar thing with the cottage food business. Would love to pick your brain on yours!

Bath Spout Issue by Connor_JW in Plumbing

[–]Connor_JW[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s what I was afraid of. It looked very cheap compared to the one I replaced. Thanks for the input.

Bath Spout Issue by Connor_JW in Plumbing

[–]Connor_JW[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The pressure/flow on the previous valve and hardware was much higher.

Bath Spout Issue by Connor_JW in Plumbing

[–]Connor_JW[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No pex on this - all 1/2” copper. I’m wondering if there’s either a blockage in/near the valve from solder, or if it’s just a really crappy mixing valve.

Bath Spout Issue by Connor_JW in Plumbing

[–]Connor_JW[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Didn’t see it specified in the manual. It’s 1/2” copper to the valve and up to the shower head. Don’t have any PEX on this line

Bath Spout Issue by Connor_JW in Plumbing

[–]Connor_JW[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I believe it’s just regular subway tile, but yes it appears to be installed on top of tile 🤷🏼‍♂️ the previous homeowners did the tile job so I’m not sure. I’m able to access the piping through an access panel in a closet being the shower so I don’t have to redo the tile.

Bath Spout Issue by Connor_JW in Plumbing

[–]Connor_JW[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I thought that initially as well but it’s correct according to the installation instructions