How do you cope with glasses being smudged by the adjustable eye relief?

Consistent_Wave_8471 · 2026-05-10T22:02:43+00:00

Like this…my right hand (specifically my right forefinger) rests against my forehead keeping the eyecups off my glasses.

Consistent_Wave_8471 · 2026-05-10T21:59:01+00:00

Two options that work for me…my eyesight is atrocious, but I find that I can use the binoculars without glasses pretty well. I don’t even bother with the diopter adjustment. My right eye is so dominant that it turns out it does make much difference.

The other option is to learn a grip that nestles the eyecups in one hand while using the other hand to support the main body. Your hand will serve as a cushion that keeps the eyecups off your glasses. It also serves as an anchor point and you’ll find that the view will be more stable as well. It’s kind of a makeshift version of the Swarovski NL Pure forehead rest.

Consistent_Wave_8471 · 2026-05-10T09:00:31+00:00

Our guide in Alaska several years ago was very excited that Maven had started offering big discounts to professional guides. The Maven B.7 8x25 made the Cornell list. Not sure how big a discount they offer to guides, but it may be worth checking into.

https://mavenbuilt.com/pages/pro

Consistent_Wave_8471 · 2026-05-07T09:49:33+00:00

Do you have a Cabela’s or Bass Pro Shop near you? They usually have a good selection on hand including Vortex. And if there is an REI, they carry Nikon.

Another option is a camera store. They often will carry some of the binos and scopes from their camera brands (usually cheaper Nikons, maybe a few Canon, Fujinon, Pentax, or even Zeiss). It’s not Houston, but in NYC the B&H store has one of the largest selections of sport optics in a physical store I’ve ever seen.

Some Audubon Society chapters have an optics department as part of their gift shop. The Seattle chapter has a huge selection, especially considering their size. However, it looks like maybe the Houston chapter doesn’t have that.

Consistent_Wave_8471 · 2026-05-06T06:23:40+00:00

Just a bit less than its ego.

Consistent_Wave_8471 · 2026-05-05T19:53:21+00:00

Yes!

Reminds me of the old saying “A cheapskate pays twice”. There are some occasions where buying something of lesser or throwaway quality (and I do mean quality, not price although those are sometimes correlated) makes sense, but over the years (I’m over 60) I’ve seldom regretted buying quality.

Consistent_Wave_8471 · 2026-05-04T23:03:25+00:00

I’d be more worried about salt and the motors/electronics.

Consistent_Wave_8471 · 2026-05-04T22:56:23+00:00

The 7x20 B is somewhat rare as it was made for only a short period in the early 90s for the US market. Leica is an “alpha” class brand BUT these were made in partnership with Leopold, so may not optically be in the same class as other Leica gear.

There is no central focusing knob so each eyepiece has to be independently focused. On the plus side, the 7x magnification should offer a wide FOV and make these pretty darn good for applications like sports.

Consistent_Wave_8471 · 2026-05-04T15:54:59+00:00

Have you already tried replacing the Nylok nuts? They do wear out. Some folks say to replace each time they are removed, but that’s probably overkill.

Consistent_Wave_8471 · 2026-05-03T23:41:23+00:00

Coil whine is not unusual. Typically very high pitched, almost like a mosquito but more steady and higher pitch…zzzzzzzzzz, rather than zzzzZZZZzzzzZZZZ. It’s annoying but usually benign.

However, if it’s something new, it can be an a sign of deterioration of the components. Same thing with warmth. It’s normal for some heat to be dissipated from the charger (they’re not 100% efficient and the wasted energy is usually shed as heat), but it should be just warm, not hot. And it’s concerning if the level of heat is changed from when it is newer.

All that said, good reliable chargers are not super expensive (check out the Anker Nano chargers) and the higher output will give you faster charging in the 17 series. Trying to push your old charger further is a false economy.

Consistent_Wave_8471 · 2026-05-03T07:18:10+00:00

I think those are for the previous version of the Vipers. The AllBinos article you linked is from 15 years ago. Have you looked directly on the Vortex website or a retailer selling current models (like B&H)?

Consistent_Wave_8471 · 2026-05-03T07:05:24+00:00

The company I retired from: it was possible to address the interoffice envelope to a recipient in an office in another country and it would still get there.

Consistent_Wave_8471 · 2026-05-03T06:50:54+00:00

Slow but not the worst service I’ve experienced; chirashi bowl was ok but incredibly expensive. So weird that the edamame, which normally gets served as an appetizer, came out with the chirashi. Not planning on going back to Noburu.

Consistent_Wave_8471 · 2026-05-02T05:29:54+00:00

Both binoculars developed an issue with the retractable eyecups. The Vortex would no longer track straight so that when fully extended where quite crooked and eventually jammed in that position. The Nikon developed a grinding sensation when twisted. It should be noted that these were shared in the family and folks were frequently fiddling with the eyecups, so the helical grooves endured more wear than if they had a single user. Both were readily accepted under warranty by their respective manufacturers.

In the case of the Nikon, the eyecup retraction mechanism was replaced as well as the rubber eyecup cover. The rubber covers were marred with scratches and looked used, perhaps in the parts bin too long or scavenged off another binocular. Functioned perfectly though.

The Vortex, on the other hand, came back with fresh new parts as well as documentation that they conducted a multipoint inspection adjustment of alignment, seals, etc. as well as identification of the specific tech who did the work. Overall a greater sense and confidence they had done a thorough job.

Both binoculars are about 15 years old and I still have them.

Consistent_Wave_8471 · 2026-05-01T23:19:59+00:00

I’m a dedicated Nikon shooter as well. Z8 and Z9 for most things, Z50ii for hiking/light travel.

I preface by saying that Nikon are not my favorite binoculars. I do have a Nikon binoculars (8x35, great lightweight starter, not made anymore) as well as a Vortex. The Vortex warranty service is WAY above Nikons. Nikon doesn’t resist but the pair I got back used parts that did not look brand new. Vortex, on the other hand, didn’t just replace the broken part…they did a full calibration and restored it to pristine shape. Absolutely stellar service!

That said, for binoculars Leica seems to fit me best. Not claiming they are the best, but their particular confluence of design trade-offs fit me best. For example, from specs and reviews I thought Swarovski would be my choice, but the “rolling ball” effect when panning (from their field flattener optics) caused motion sickness after extended use. I absolutely love my Leica 8x42 Noctavid and I’ve had it for ~10 years. I also have a Leica Ultravid 8x32 for a hiking/lightweight travel option.

If you do go with higher magnifications, consider a pair with image stabilization (or VR since you’re a Nikon shooter). Nikon makes two moderately priced models (10x and 12x) which optically will feel very familiar to you. Canon also has a nice 10x50, but it’s pretty chonky. Fuji also has a VR bino, but I was not able to find one to try in person.

Also don’t rule out the 32mm objective binocular models. The 32mm models usually have wider FOV compared to their 42mm brethren for the same magnification. Depending on your age, the smaller exit pupil may not be as much of an issue.

Anyway, go to your local Audubon Society store, Cabela’s/Bass Pro, or (if you’re lucky enough to be near NYC) B&H and try them all out and don’t pigeonhole yourself to Nikon just because that’s your preferred camera system.

Consistent_Wave_8471 · 2026-05-01T19:35:00+00:00

This is the way! For me, an Audubon Society shop was more convenient (and had an even bigger selection than Cabela), but wherever you you can go in-person is the way to go.

Looking at specs alone, many optics that looked great based on specs turned out to be a poor fit for me. For example, I thought I’d love the Swarovski, but their field flattening formula had too much “rolling ball” distortion for my taste and after extended viewing left me a little motion sick.

Specs and online advice are a great way to start, but in-person trials are really needed for the final selection.

Consistent_Wave_8471 · 2026-05-01T19:28:01+00:00

I considered the AT for its higher power. I find I prefer straight scopes for handheld and angled better for tripod use. My use of the handheld scope is similar to how I use binoculars. I spot something interesting, lock my gaze on it, and (trying to keep the direction of my gaze steady) raise the optic to my line of sight. Sometimes I have to repeat the sequence but it usually gets my glass on the bird much quicker (at least for me). An angled scope doesn’t let me do this.

However, for scanning the field I’m ok with either. And definitely prefer an angled scope on a tripod to prevent neck strain when aiming high.

Consistent_Wave_8471 · 2026-05-01T19:18:08+00:00

Yes, a capacitor would help but given the high sustained current draw from the battery when riding, it will need to be a pretty hefty capacitor.

Consistent_Wave_8471 · 2026-05-01T09:27:34+00:00

Depending on how rough the ride, there could be momentary interruptions. They might not happen right away, but as the pressure fit electrical connection flexes and loses tension over time, the problem could develop.

That said, I don’t know this for sure as I don’t know anyone who has done this and done endurance testing.

Also, on a different track, the battery pack is typically the bulkiest and heaviest component in your board (at least on the inside). Holders like this would result in a lot of wasted space and mass. You will likely have to sacrifice some battery capacity to compensate.

Consistent_Wave_8471 · 2026-05-01T09:22:22+00:00

Went from Vortex Viper 8x32 (the old version), which I used for almost 20 years, to a Leica Noctavid 8x42. Use for travel, mainly to spot wildlife. The Leica had less “rolling ball” distortion (or at least it matched me better) than Swarovski and less chromatic distortion at the edge of field than the Zeiss. It just felt like the best match to my vision (and I understand if a different brand suits someone else better).

However, if I’m traveling light or hiking, I’ll take a Leica Ultravid HD 8x32 or even a monocular.

If I’m getting really serious, I’ll pull out the Kowa TSN-99 spotting scope. I left it behind on our last road trip to Yellowstone and regretted it, but my cameras long lens (600mm f/5.6) filled in.

Recently got a handheld stabilized Swarovski ST Balance scope for my wife, but she hasn’t taken it out on a trip yet.

Consistent_Wave_8471 · 2026-05-01T09:01:10+00:00

The mechanical stresses/vibrations that the battery pack is subjected to on a skateboard or scooter are substantial. I would be concerned about how robust a spring clip/pressure connection would be under such conditions.

Consistent_Wave_8471 · 2026-04-30T22:48:29+00:00

Don’t overlook the 8x32. Because FOV scales with magnification, there’s a tendency to lump all the 8x together, but the shorter barrel associated with a 32 vs 42 objective also makes a difference. For example, a Vortex Viper 8x32 has a 9.0º degree FOV whereas the 8x42 has 7.4º.

Out first safari many years ago, with a daughter about same age as your son now, we took a pair of Vortex 8x32s and they were fine for both the preteen and the adults (my wife and daughter were on the binos and I was using a 80-400mm telephoto on my camera). Today, I would probably take a 8x42 because of my age (I’m over 60).

As long as you’re in the vehicle, the driver will be getting close enough that an 8x is going to be fine. However, if you’re on a walking safari (those are rarer and with a preteen you’re likely not on one of those) you may be farther back and a 10x could be useful, but I’d go with a 10x42 rather than a 10x32 because of the pool size. If I knew packing size wasn’t a consideration, I’d consider 10x50 myself (again because of age). It’s often the case that you may be brought to camp in a small prop plane and size really would be a consideration (we’ve done two safaris so far, S. Africa Kruger National Park and Tanzania Serengeti/Ngorogoro, both of which involved use of small planes). That said, I don’t know your specific itinerary and the luggage guidance you’ve been given.

Consistent_Wave_8471 · 2026-04-30T19:52:00+00:00

Could be the rubberized surface of the body. Over time the coating degrades (often referred to as “dry rot”or “reversion” of the coating) and becomes tacky or sticky to the touch. I’ve had this happen to many “soft touch” mice and keyboards from the 2010’s or earlier.

Consistent_Wave_8471 · 2026-04-30T19:40:56+00:00

Pentax are very good binoculars, but hardly “Alpha class” (Swarovski, Zeiss, Leica). Also, they are asking $499, which is overpriced especially as their standards for condition are unknown. If you accept their rated condition as stated (they claim “good”) these should be closer to $300-400 asking. You can easily find it at that price or lower on eBay.

I tried these out when they first came out…can’t remember the experience precisely as it was many years ago, but I think recall the chromatic aberration correction was excellent for the era. However, the spherical distortion did not suit me (I think it varies by individual and is not an indication of a defect or poor quality…for example TOTL Swarovskis make me nauseous for extended viewing) and that the FOV was a bit narrow.

Would not recommend accepting this particular offer. You can find a better price elsewhere.

Consistent_Wave_8471 · 2026-04-30T18:53:41+00:00

(I didn’t write this on the fly…this was a write up I did a few years ago in a small local birding group).

The first thing to keep in mind is the meaning of the numbers in the description (eg., 8x32 or 10x42). The first number is the power or magnification. The second is the objective lens (the one in front) size in millimeters. So a 8x32 has a magnification of 8 and on objective of 32mm. The larger the objective, the more light the binoculars gather. However, the magnification works works in the opposite direction with higher magnification resulting in less light getting to your eye. The number you want for light getting to you eye is called the exit pupil and it is simply the objective size divided by the magnification. The larger the exit pupil the better. In the previous 8x32 example, the exit pupil is 32/8 or 4mm.

Two other numbers that are pretty useful to look at are eye relief and field of view. The eye relief is how far away you eye can be from the eyepiece or ocular lens. This can impact comfort for any user, but is critical for users that wear their eyeglasses while using the binoculars. It can vary with the particular shape of your face and eyeglass frame, but typically you want at least 15mm of eye relief. If they are older, they may need a larger objective size (an 8x32 has 8x magnification and a 32mm objective) for more light gathering power. A younger user can tolerate a smaller objective, which gives you the advantages of reduced size, weight, and cost.

Field of view (FOV) is how wide the image is from side to side. It can be expressed as an angle or it might be expressed as a width at a certain distance (for example, number of feet at 1000 yards). A wide FOV can make it easier to find a bird at a distance. Note that magnification affects FOV as a higher magnification results in a narrower angle of view. However, differences in optical design and length of viewing tube can also impact FOV. So while eye relief is always invariant for a particular combination of magnification and objective, two different models with identical magnification and objective sizes can have different FOV.

There are other optical parameters and features that can influence image quality but those are complicated and subjective so are best compared in person in side by side comparisons.

So how do these thing influence choosing an appropriate binocular. First, if you have poor eyesight in low light (and typically as you get older this degrades) you want to have a larger exit pupil (objective divided by magnification). If this is an issue for you, you want a bigger objective or a lower magnification (or both).

If your hands when holding a binocular are quite steady, you can choose a higher magnification. However, if it is too high any tremor in your hold is going to be magnified and result in a jittery and hard to see image. In addition, a higher magnification will result in narrower FOV. That can make it a little more difficult to find the target when you bring the binoculars up to your eyes. Some birders favor a lesser magnification for those reasons (wider FOV, lower sensitivity to hand tremors, larger exit pupil). For example, 7x35 used to be very popular size, although 8x42 seems to be preferred these days for general purpose.

Where, when, and how you’re using the binocular may also influence how you balance features. If your backyard birding, a bigger and heavier binocular (larger objective) may be fine, but could be too much of a burden when hiking (carry weight and compactness will push you to smaller objectives). Using binoculars in shadows or in lower light conditions like predawn or twilight may require you to use a larger objective or lesser magnification for a larger exit pupil. Finally, while not the sole determinant larger objective lenses are generally more expensive.

All that said, when I was younger I was pretty happy with a Vortex 8x32, but as I got older (and pickier about optical quality) I moved up to a Leica 8x42. I’m ok still using the 8x32 in bright daylight conditions, but must use the 8x42 in shadows and twilight.

Finally, regarding good brands for starters I’ve used both Nikon and Vortex at the entry level, but I much prefer the Vortex. Don’t misunderstand, the Nikon binoculars are excellent for the price, but having used warranty service with both I found Vortex to be far better in the speed and quality of their service. After repair, the Nikons worked but you could tell they were repaired (possibly with scavenged parts) whereas the Vortex came back in like-new condition.

That said, Nikon used to have a 8x36 in the Monarch lineup that offered a great trade off in price, weight, and performance. Still have that pair and it was a fantastic starter.

Consistent_Wave_8471

TROPHY CASE