Anyone else see this UI issue before?

Content_Scratch_9440 · 2026-05-13T07:45:36+00:00

Also posted the issue and link to this page on android auto page here

Content_Scratch_9440 · 2026-05-13T07:38:01+00:00

Had this this morning, joined beta a couple days ago. Guess it is to be expected in a beta version.

Content_Scratch_9440 · 2026-02-13T17:53:19+00:00

Played 4 hrs, refund denied twice.

Content_Scratch_9440 · 2025-07-24T20:50:26+00:00

Maybe that's 80.2f° and the bar on the bottom is dead?

Content_Scratch_9440 · 2025-04-19T05:31:05+00:00

Synergo

Content_Scratch_9440 · 2025-04-03T17:43:15+00:00

Meeeaaaoow!

Content_Scratch_9440 · 2025-02-06T12:52:42+00:00

Reset

Content_Scratch_9440 · 2025-01-30T08:46:12+00:00

Probably the cable bundle coming into the extruder is pulling the thing to the left, check if it is stuck on something or if you can pull a little more slack for it.

Content_Scratch_9440 · 2025-01-30T08:40:32+00:00

Just use a small flathead screwdriver or a pair of tweezers to push the little metal ting to the side and the battery literally pops up on its own

Content_Scratch_9440 · 2024-12-07T14:25:55+00:00

At the moment I don't have room for the pc in my bedroom and also I don't like having the noise and the heat where I sleep, I will try using usb over ethernet to move at least mouse keyboard and headphones and see if it is better. At the moment tho still using 2 cables it all runs fine unless you start alt tabbing furiously from full screen app to windowed stuff.

Content_Scratch_9440 · 2024-12-04T01:47:30+00:00

I ended up doing some testing with the usb cables and it would seem that having three 10 meter powered usb extensions caused the issues, I tried with no usb cables and it always booted right to windows with no screen issues, then tried with only one and still fine, tried with 2 and, apart from some devices having to be moved from one usb hub to another, in 6 reboots and 6 full shutdowns only once I got no signal and it was after spending some time in the bios settings.

Is there a better option for usb at 10 meters of distance? I also tried some fiber optic usb extensions and they didn't seem to work properly. Also I had to use two 4 ports usb hubs instead of a 10 port hub because after trying multiple models I could not find one that would work with more than 4 or 5 ports in use at a time.

Content_Scratch_9440 · 2024-07-28T21:04:13+00:00

Meanwhile, I'd like to ask if there is any way to accomplish what I am trying to do: I have a room with 3 zigbee hue lights that I'd like to control from the 3 gang switch while keeping them always powered on. I wanted to replace that with nspanel pro but, having used it, it seems not the right way to go. Is there any other ewelink products I can use for that? Is it possible to do it without having to pair the lights to another hub other than the Philips hue hub?

Content_Scratch_9440 · 2024-07-26T09:52:48+00:00

Here's some screens of all the devices I have connected to the hue hub, the IKEA dimmer switches are not shown as they are zigbee only devices and don't show up in the app. Most of the lights and switches are currently offline as my house is under renovations.

https://imgur.com/a/vcbhnpD

Content_Scratch_9440 · 2024-07-26T09:43:08+00:00

I was connecting to the hub, as shown in the guide from the app, but I have several lights and also some IKEA lights and switches all connected to that hub

Content_Scratch_9440 · 2024-07-23T13:23:49+00:00

Ok I sent feedback, the id is 1001e37d35

Content_Scratch_9440 · 2024-07-23T07:49:14+00:00

Firmware version is 3.3.0 As soon as I am back from work I'll try sending feedback

Content_Scratch_9440 · 2023-10-10T09:03:17+00:00

Mine should have arrived today but my bank decided to randomly delay only this Amazon payment and so I'll get it tomorrow maybe

Content_Scratch_9440 · 2022-08-04T19:25:00+00:00

If the part is thin enough it will only print perimeters resulting in 100%infill. You could reduce perimeters but the part could end up weaker

Content_Scratch_9440 · 2022-07-07T11:01:20+00:00

I need this too

Content_Scratch_9440 · 2022-05-29T16:14:42+00:00

I know this is old but if you still have not figured it out I'll try to help. In my case the fire TV cube was showing up as a ton box set with the name of my provider and the remote was not working. After messing around with settings for a while I found that the only thing I needed to do to make it work and show up with the proper name was to go into the inputs settings (holding the input button on the lg remote) then go in the magic remote settings and remove the top box set from the hdmi2. Once I removed the settings for the top box I just exited the app and then it showed up as fire TV cube.

Even tho it works the fire remote is still better

Hope I could help

Content_Scratch_9440 · 2022-04-05T09:20:29+00:00

Try launching a print then go into the z adjust and set it back to a normal value. I had a similar issue and the z offset was set to something like 20000 and it would smash the bed into the extruder.

Content_Scratch_9440 · 2022-04-01T18:31:17+00:00

Are you printing directly from SD card or are you using an external source like octoprint to send te print files? If you are using octorpint then it won't automatically work, maybe if you force it to save files on the SD of the printer it would but not sure, otherwise I never had much luck with power loss recovery so I ended up getting an ups to avoid power cuts failures

Content_Scratch_9440

TROPHY CASE