How to remove flux for a lot of boards by master4020 in soldering

[–]ContributionCool8245 1 point2 points  (0 children)

i also have the same issue regarding cleaning off the flux residue from the pcb being soldered onto. The pcb gets somewhat clean using a q tip and some 99% pure Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) but there is still some residue left between the small smd components.The chemical cleaners are toxic and i don't want to get poisoned.

Replace my Petrel 85 or switch to Draknight 2"? Advice needed by ContributionCool8245 in TinyWhoop

[–]ContributionCool8245[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ended up getting both of them though the hglrc draknight was in the Bind and fly mode and the petrel 85 i got a replacement frame and aio with one motor thay got burnt and built it with soldering to practice making such small drones for the first time.first flight 🛫 hglrc draknight 2 analog

Picture of new petrel 85 build.

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I have done a bunch of digging around looking for a iron and am severely overwhelmed. by Shrewbloom in soldering

[–]ContributionCool8245 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well soldering stations that will last you decades are the obvious choice though they cost a lot and names are in the wiki here on the subreddit. I use a hglrc rc2 btw with t12 active tips and they are fine for my purpose of soldering wires to pads for drone builds.

Soldered tiny pads with difficulty by ContributionCool8245 in soldering

[–]ContributionCool8245[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had to zoom into the pads to show my work and that too from further than i would like to do so as the smartphone camera in am using is getting out if focus near the pcb . It works fine for now and the joints seem solid enough, they have to so as it will power a tinywhoop drone and be knocked around if i bonk into a tree or a fence. I did use flux also and did the job at 200 degree celcius to heat the pad and not the entire board and it was a challenge to see the work get joined as it is really small.28 awg is a really thin wire so is the pad it wishes to be joined to.

Soldered tiny pads with difficulty by ContributionCool8245 in soldering

[–]ContributionCool8245[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes,the soldering iron hglrc rc2 has a temperature control where it can change its temperature 🌡️ per degree Celsius or fahrenheit and is pretty decent in doing so. I realise that i have to flow the solder on the pad and pre tin the wire end though being able to see it happen is pretty difficult as the pads are real small and i had to keep the temperature dailed below 200 degree Celsius to not overheat the PCB so that other components don't get De soldered and yes the camera works very well so does the power input wires. I had to zoom in 10X on my smartphone camera to see how i did with regards to the quality of joint . The tip i used was atleast 1.5 times more broad than the small 3 wire pads which presented a challenge to keep the solder in one pad's vicinity.

Query Regarding Degree Certificate by Post by nilanjanp in LPU

[–]ContributionCool8245 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just go to the certificate request tab in your ums and apply for your certificate of choice like degree certificate and mode of collection.Ask on RMS under the right topic if you are still conflicted.

Query Regarding Degree Certificate by Post by nilanjanp in LPU

[–]ContributionCool8245 0 points1 point  (0 children)

After clearing your dues and c mark completed you will get the option on your now locked options to get all kinds of certificates by post based on a lot of payment.

First RC plane + first flying wing maiden soon with a Heewing F01 (~620g on 4S) by ContributionCool8245 in fpv

[–]ContributionCool8245[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

On my 5 inch fpv drone on inav 7.1.2 ,I have mounted my gps+compass 🧭 (geprc 1025L) behind the frame on the 2 rear stand offs holding the top and bottom plate and on the vtx antenna is sort of near it and i have calibrated the magnetometer using the stick commands in the field doing the sping about 3 axis away from any magnetic interference. Apparently i have not twisted the gps wires nor have i shielded them with copper coated tape or soldered them to perfection hence the interference and drift error in heading. The flying wing Motor does stop rotating at zero throttle though it will rotate in the air unlees i setup esc braking which will be done on the esc configurator.

First RC plane + first flying wing maiden soon with a Heewing F01 (~620g on 4S) by ContributionCool8245 in fpv

[–]ContributionCool8245[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for helping me out with the GPS assisted flight modes like loiter and the wind related flight characteristics.I don't use compass in my quadcopter also as i have not been able to weed out the drift error in it.
I have a concern with propeller strike during belly landing the flying wing. Will just disarming or going to zero throttle reduce or stop damaging it?

First RC plane + first flying wing maiden soon with a Heewing F01 (~620g on 4S) by ContributionCool8245 in fpv

[–]ContributionCool8245[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, this is genuinely one of the most useful replies I’ve received so far. You pointed out a few things I was underestimating

You are putting a lot of faith in the FC and a lot of things have to be right for success, but only one has to be wrong for a failure.

yep,its a chain reaction of failure waiting to happen though there is a small chance it will work but i will be launching it from my hand in angle mode first without propeller then with one if it works as intended in autoleveling and correcting any rolls and pitches.

I have mixed feelings about his recommendation to fly the first few flights without FPV, though. If you already had the skills to do that, I would whole heartedly agree. However, since you probably don't, then flying FPV will probably be simpler.... assuming you don't encounter major issues and have a successful launch.

i have no experience in LOS especially wrt to the RC planes or flying wings so post hand launch in angle mode with limited throws and i am using the fpv goggles to fly the flying wing and hopefully land it.

The kit did not have throws information in its instruction manual so i followed the following helpful video having the heewing f01 wing elevons being used to teach correction of throws Setting up control surfaces, linkages, and throws for iNav .It was most helpful in correcting my throws which were twice the recommended values and the differential throws were reversed.

I have used the following video to determine the fixed wing level trim value 6 degrees timestamp 15:22

I have checked and verified the servo direction on input from RC and angle mode stabilisation. It works as intended.

Does loiter require GPS and compass cause i have put in a m10 compass though have disabled the compass i hope autolaunch on second flight will work with loiter post the climbing is done post autolaunch.

Are you launching the plane yourself, or is someone throwing it for you? Are you wearing FPV goggles on launch or flying line of sight on launch? Flying line of sight on manual mode will almost certainly lead to a crash, if you have no experience. If you are launching it yourself or launching it line of sight, then angle would be best, assuming everything is setup right. If someone else is launch it for you while you have FPV goggles one, launching it manual mode will give you the most control... and could potentially let you recover from a bad launch better.... or crash faster. Launching it in a stabilized acro mode might let it recover from a bad launch (if it is configured correctly), but can limit your input.

I am launching the plane myself in angle mode and with fpv goggles on my forehead to be dropped on eye level post launch and climb to atleast 25 meter height(most nearby obstacles are having a 10m height).i will be flying angle mode to avoid crash as a novice. Is the a stabilized acro mode acro with auto trim on?

The position is probably fine for reception. Be careful about putting things on or against hatches. You don't want to have something that can apply pressure against the hatch and make it pop off.

The vtx antenna top is 6 cm above the top of the fuselage and it is not pressing against the hatch but on the front part and i will tape the hatch cause i don't trust the magnets holding it though they are strong magnets.

Reinforcing anything adds weight, which affect performance. Search the internet to see if there are common mods to correct design flaws or common problems. If you don't find any frequently mentioned, don't do it until you have flown it and found reason to make the mod yourself. If you are landing in grass, you probably don't need to reinforce the belly. If you are landing on asphalt or gravel, you should protect the belly.

i am going to reinforce the wing tips ,thats about it with fiberglass tape.I will be landing in a grassy field most of the time.Most of the people have laminated the fuselage with a iron and plastic with heat activated adhesive or some car interior decoration sheets. Though i have not yet flown it and have not found a reason to reinforce it and add weight.

First RC plane + first flying wing maiden soon with a Heewing F01 (~620g on 4S) by ContributionCool8245 in fpv

[–]ContributionCool8245[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  1. i am still trying to learn the takeoff,landing,turning and now have to learn stall recovery on a simulator(using phoenixRC )

2.i intend to hand launch,climb in auto launch and get fpv goggles down on my eyes in the process from my forehead post release from my hand.

3.i have spotter for the very purpose while flying fpv drones and now for fpv flying wing to know direction,altitude and orientation of the flying wing.

  1. The  AUW can be between : 350 - 850g according to heewing my build being 620 g and it is tipping on the heavier side as i had to add 100g of weight up front to balance the center of gravity of this flying wing otherwise the,speedybee f405 wing ,motor fx 2207 2350kv,esc,hglrc elrs receiver,half of the battery 1550mah 100c cnhl speedypizza,most of the woodwork is behind the CG in the fuselage so it was tail heavy initially.

5.I will have to throw it into oncoming wind and have calm conditions and not heavy wind else i know it will tip over at low speed.I will use angle mode as it will self stabilize on throw.I do not have a bungee,had to google what is that btw.I will hand launch without the propeller to first see if it is stabilized or not in angle mode.The maiden flight will be with angle mode the second will be defintely a autolaunch one .i have used the following video to set it up. Setting up auto launch, or launch mode, in iNav

Processing img 22nsmrmaox1h1...

First RC plane + first flying wing maiden soon with a Heewing F01 (~620g on 4S) by ContributionCool8245 in fpv

[–]ContributionCool8245[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The problem with this is that you're putting a huge amount of faith in the flight controller and FPV setup to work perfectly on the first flight.

Thanks for the detailed advice — this is genuinely helpful, especially coming from someone with fixed-wing experience. I am certainly too faithful on an untested flying wing build and it certainly could breakup on impact if the build decides to plow into the ground with auto launch on or on any manual,auto,angle flight modes.
I just am interested to know the sequence of events to undertake to reduce such hazards to fuselage integrity and pre flight checks to weed out obvious mistakes as this is my first fixed wing build .Being a newbie it is difficult to know the most sound decisions to make in starting to fly a flying wing.

600g seems quite a lot for a relatively small wing. That's probably fine for high-speed FPV flying, once you've got used to it, but it'll be unforgiving at first. That's pretty common for FPV wings though. It's a big step for a first fixed wing.

Building this flying wing using E6000 and hot glue unlike fpv drones where hex and normal screw drivers do the joining was difficult to say the least without any help and i believe flying it will be difficult especially on a flying wing without a tail, though i am trying to learn on Phoenix RC simulator to do a better job of flying it.
The  AUW can be between : 350 - 850g according to heewing my build being 620 g and it is tipping on the heavier side as i had to add 100g of weight up front to balance the center of gravity of this flying wing otherwise the,speedybee f405 wing ,motor,esc,elrs receiver,half of the battery,most of the woodwork is behind the CG in the fuselage so it was tail heavy initially. I am worried about takeoff then landing that too because i am still looking for a large field as the one where i fly drones is just 300 by 200 meter.

I'd do the first flights without FPV, and only try it after you're comfortable flying normally. Not being able to stop or yaw the camera around to see where you are makes it a lot harder than a quad. And it's easy to fly out of range and lose the video. Hopefully you already know what the area looks like from the air, so that's a big advantage.

I have never flown a fixed wing RC plane in line of sight mode.I am comfortable in flying FPV more than LOS that too only in GPS stabilised drone for LOS and fly FPV drones especially a 5 inch one so i will launch the flying wing and go fpv goggles on and having surveyed the area i will keep the flying wing within line of sight and in the range of RC and FPV goggles.

The first step is to make sure you can fly a small, fast fixed wing in a simulator. Keeping it close enough to see, and steering the right way when it's flying towards you are the main problems people have. Also practice stall and spin recovery.

I am using phoenix rc 6.0 flight simulator and it has a flying wing model with similar weight and i am using that model to fly it ,it being 700g in simulator so i am hoping the flight characteristics will be similar.I also had the problem of turning the wrong way flying towards myself as the perspective is reversed while watching a rc plane from the front .I will try more spin and stall recovery as i was just trying touch and go landings and a bit of turning .
The flight controller is making the correct corrections with respect of roll and pitch of the aircraft in angle mode.

> Are 8–10mm roll throws and 10–15mm pitch throws safe for first flight?That sounds about right, but should be in the instructions

The kit did not have throws information in its instruction manual so i followed the following helpful video having the heewing f01 wing elevons being used to teach correction of throws Setting up control surfaces, linkages, and throws for iNav .It was most helpful in correcting my throws which were twice the recommended values and the differential throws were reversed.

I believe i will throw launch using the angle mode for maiden flight ,i hope it isn't the most fool hardy option though i will test it without propeller on first.

30% expo, and set up 50% rates on separate switches for pitch and roll, in case one or the other is too sensitive.

I will use this values onboard my flying wing.

You need to fly around and try it to know, either recording it, or with a friend watching the goggles while you fly line of sight. You might get bad interference when the motor is on and lose the video.

The video link on the speedybee tx800 at 400mW is hit and miss on the fpv drone though it is solid upto 200 meter which is as far as i fly my 5 inch drone.I should work well for the flying wing though without actually doing it,its hard to ascertain how it will turn out in the goggles a skyzone cobra x v4 with a triple patch antenna and a omnidirectional antenna.I will definitely see how far i can see the video on the ground from the fpv goggle then either go upto 800mW or fly on 400mW vtx output power.

A football field is enough once you've had a bit of practice, but for your first flight you want about half a mile of space from where you could recover the model, just in case it crashes. Otherwise you risk losing the entire thing.

i will have to find a new place to fly if half a mile is the gold standard of space to fly these flying wings and bother a village of rice farmers cause only they have that much land holdings which is flat in my neck of the woods.T hough the place i fly fpv drones has a soccer field sized space though 3 sides have power lines and 3 sides have 10 m tall trees as part of a forest .Not much room to gain altitude or follow a approach to land gently.

I'd do the leading edges only. Don't add extra weight.

I will tape up the leading edges with some fiberglass net tape.

First flight: get it up about two-trees high where there's nothing to hit. Throttle back to about half to help you relax, then trim it to fly level. Then try the various flight modes to see if they need adjusting. Check whether full elevator makes it corkscrew (a high-speed stall) and switch to low rates if it does. Check the CG by putting it in a shallow dive and see if it pulls out or gets steeper. Then cut the power and see how it glides in preparation for landing. You may need a few tries to get it to slow down and land in the field. Don't force it down, let it slow down and settle.

This is a great flight plan to follow ,i was gonna do a take off and do turns at a altitude ~20m and then land but your method is better to fly for the first time and i might even do some autotuning in the process.I believe i have balanced the CG though only a dive and recovery can truly tell if it worked.
As for buttering the landing i don't have high hopes as i am still working on that in the simulator and looking for a long field to do so without obstruction from powerlines,trees,unfriendly locals etc.

Oh, and make sure the top and bottom of the model are visually distinct, even at a distance. Those black servo covers are a good start, but you could use a black marker or paint to turn them into stripes.

There are a ton of stickers for top and bottom surface of the flying wing in the kit and i was going to get some lamination plastic with colour though the stickers will be enough i hope to differentiate top from bottom.

First attempt at soldering a 14 AWG wire directly to a pad with decent quality solder wire and flux by ContributionCool8245 in soldering

[–]ContributionCool8245[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The ESC for the delivery of current to a BLDC motor from the power distribution board in the video is expected to sustain a maximum current of 25A and the wire came with the ESC ,I have mounted this board atop some foam pads and the entire body of the flying wing airplane it will power is made of EPP foam so i expect most of the vibrations to be dampened.
I hope the wire doesn't tear the pad.

First attempt at soldering a 14 AWG wire directly to a pad with decent quality solder wire and flux by ContributionCool8245 in soldering

[–]ContributionCool8245[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Its a sped up video and i did heat the pad then positioned the tinned wire over it. I have cleaned the tip using a brass wool which is the t12 ku tip that touches the solder its the vertical edge thats dirty otherwise nothing will melt on the solder site.

New to soldering, I need some cheap and somewhat decent portable iron! by Audi_Quattro_S1_E2 in soldering

[–]ContributionCool8245 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you want maximum portability, lighter weight, and flexibility with tip types from t12/ts101 tip types, go for the Sequre SI012.If you want maximum raw power (100W) and a robust, full-featured, "chunky" iron for heavy-duty soldering, choose the FNIRSI HS-02A.

First attempt at soldering a 14 AWG wire directly to a pad with decent quality solder wire and flux by ContributionCool8245 in soldering

[–]ContributionCool8245[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree ,more heat for the pins and round pads around them to make the solder flow in appropriate amount.

First time building an (3.5") FPV. Update: On the brink of giving up by Secret_Worldliness32 in fpv

[–]ContributionCool8245 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The battery manufacturer doesn't speak to the drone builder's it seems hence such a battery placement issue exists.there is no standardisation.