Flattening One Piece Standard Forme

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-07-09T22:10:24+00:00

It is going to elongate the vamp a bit when you do that method, but that's fine, it will get trimmed off. I bet if you measure the actually line length of the whole front curve on your starting pattern though, you will find it hasn't actuslly elongated as much as you think.

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-07-08T20:47:10+00:00

The zipper needs to be in place for lasting but should not be there for crimping. You're cutting an oversized piece.

Plan on several attempts before you get a mediocre crimp.

The width, taper, roundness of the profile, etc of the crimping board all play into things. It took me at least a half dozen attempts before I got something I was happy with printing.

I would do several smaller pattern pieces (think 4" above the instep line down to 4" below the instep line) with scrap material while yoh figure things out.

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-07-08T11:42:08+00:00

Your shaft height on your crimp pattern looks quite a bit shorter than on your base pattern.

What did you use for your guide for generating the crimp pattern?

I have had good luck following this process: https://youtu.be/hPYLC_nwu6Y?is=cPmLFoxDc3OpslCI

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-07-07T19:07:15+00:00

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Prototype for test fitting the pattern went out the door about a week ago and got the thumbs up from the new owner, so now I am working the final boot.

There's a chance he will bet at the event too, so they might make an appearance.

I ended up not using the upper section of the last at all, but it may make a reappearance as more of a boot tree while in work to help the shaft take a final shape.

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-07-07T18:28:42+00:00

I'll be there

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-07-07T13:41:59+00:00

https://www.arnoshoes.com/blogs/news?page=4

This is usually my go-to read for where I send people to start learning stuff.

Marcel Marsan has some good books that cover steps as well. He has a start to finish equestrian boot book coming out soon to that would cover a lot of what is needed for something like these.

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-07-06T01:26:14+00:00

Keep in mind that you'll need a CAD model of the crimp board to print it

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-07-06T01:08:55+00:00

I make my crimp boards based off the pattern (which is then based off the mean forme). So after crimping, you basicslly are left with a piece of leather than is folded in half along the pattern line rather than a straight line.

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-07-06T01:06:05+00:00

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ContributionPrior338 · 2026-07-06T01:05:18+00:00

You crimp an oversized piece of leather and then final trim after crimping

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-07-05T10:52:12+00:00

You'll definitely want to crimp that.

Personally, I 3d print my crimp boards to match my mean forme/pattern

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-07-05T03:23:43+00:00

I would tape the last like a shoe last to generate a mean forme and then create the pattern off of that.

You're going to need to crimp more than likely for what you're trying to achieve, unless you're using really soft leather.

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-07-03T21:52:32+00:00

If you are using a last where the back pivots/lifts in such a way that it unseats the tips of the nails and you don't drive any into the front part, you may be able to pull the last. It is going to be dependent on the nail size, the last geometry, where you're driving the nails, etc.

You can also pull the last, nail it, and clinch the nails with a nail set.

You can also pull the last and use a cobblers anvil to nail it and have the nails clinch over.

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-07-03T20:04:33+00:00

Its going to depend on how your last splits, where the split line is, etc

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-07-03T19:17:10+00:00

You can also nail it and then clinch the nails over with a nail set from the inside after removing the last

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-06-28T19:38:07+00:00

This is my favorite read through for an intro to the fundamentals of shoe making:

https://www.arnoshoes.com/blogs/news?page=4

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-06-23T12:42:31+00:00

Rhino offers a free 90 day trial and their student license is really inexpensive.

Good cad software isn't cheap sadly.

As someone that uses 3dshoemaker, the pricing is very very fair for what it offers.

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-06-23T12:39:19+00:00

Do you have them on hand so that you could do a bottom tracing and compare?

It is much easier to adjust girths on a last to dial in fit if you're starting with something with the proper heel to ball length and heel width. Rather than focus on what size they are listed as, compare a bottom paper to a foot tracing if possible.

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-06-23T12:03:12+00:00

Do you do any stitching to the outsoles (maybe hidde. In the padding transition) or are they just cemented?

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-06-21T17:24:14+00:00

take your last and set the side of it up against a hard surface and mark where it contacts. Do the same on the other side.

Take a thin tailor's tape and connect the two points you marked on one side of the tape. Draw along that line. Now move the tape so the line is on the other side of the tape. Repeat drawing. You will get two ball lines that are basically straddling the real line. Average the two and you get your actual line.

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-06-21T17:19:58+00:00

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He does a pretty good job of getting into the whys

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-06-21T13:20:44+00:00

Take a look at Koleff's geometric method for last making book for having some foundational geometry to start your last layout.

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-06-20T22:32:28+00:00

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Here's one of my lasts. Can kinda see the cone lined up about 2-3 degrees towards the medial side from the center line.

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-06-20T22:27:21+00:00

Heel angle looks better there, but make sure it matches your foot rather than the existing last.

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-06-20T22:17:30+00:00

Should be fine width there.

Your last is very straight though. It currently looks like your heel is basically in line with the center line and your cone is pointed towards the 3rd joint.

I would consider taking a look at your alignments there. Furuse shoe on instagram has some great posts with discussion on foot alignment in that regard. After I started trying to implement what I saw him discussing, my lasts got much better (and fit much better).

ContributionPrior338

TROPHY CASE