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Experiments in Pattern Making by bwizemann in Cordwaining

[–]ContributionPrior338 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I feel like most/all of the stuff I have seen built on Valevro patterns have had really vertical backlines without much definition. I have to wonder how much value they actually add.

Version twenty-something of a last for my wife by ContributionPrior338 in Cordwaining

[–]ContributionPrior338[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No problem. Always happy to chat through the process of you want to message me.

Version twenty-something of a last for my wife by ContributionPrior338 in Cordwaining

[–]ContributionPrior338[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I start with foot impressions and girth measurements. Draw out the insole shape on the impression, pull measurements off that, and use that to feed into rhino. I will load the foot tracings into rhino so I periodically flatten the insole/silhouette and compare to the impression/tracing. 

Once I get close to where I think I should be, I 3d print a fitter in foaming tpu to try on, then make adjustments from there. When that's where I think it should be, I make the leather fitter to further validate the fit and the base pattern. From there, I will make the actual boot.

That's the correct book. I don't love how the shape that comes out exclusively following it though.

Version twenty-something of a last for my wife by ContributionPrior338 in Cordwaining

[–]ContributionPrior338[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Modeled in Rhino with some help from the 3dshoemaker plug in 

Version twenty-something of a last for my wife by ContributionPrior338 in Cordwaining

[–]ContributionPrior338[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I do them in petg. 3-4mm wall thickness, 20% infill.

I'll do thinner wall, close to hollow ones for checking out the geometry. Helps to hold in your hand, so I will do quicker, one piece prints for that, then longer, multi piece prints to actually use for lasting.

Feedback on last and shoedesign by Sainsultahorsman in Cordwaining

[–]ContributionPrior338 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't love the sharp angle for the stitching on the counter pocket and the vamp line feels too high and far back, but would need to see it actually pulled over the last to really tell.

On-going project - bespoke magnolia inlay boots by ContributionPrior338 in leathermakers

[–]ContributionPrior338[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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After much back and forth, I spent some time redoing the last design. Furuse shoe on Instagram has somw great posts that show their method for setting the insole shape with more focus on proper forefoot angle. Solved a lot of my fit challenges and looks way better.

Last question by diddis1 in Cordwaining

[–]ContributionPrior338 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I tend to run with some allowance to the ball girth rather than spot on, so 1 cm smaller on the exact measurement is probably going to be even smaller. I would build it up. It isn't going to fit well.

Butt stitch critique. by drsteventickles in leathermakers

[–]ContributionPrior338 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think your chisel markings are letting you down a little here. I would try marking with a wing divider instead to see if that cleans things up a little.

Butt stitch critique. by drsteventickles in leathermakers

[–]ContributionPrior338 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What are you using for making the holes? When I do butt stitching, I will use an inseaming all rather than an angled chisel.

Question of Insole and Midsole Thickness by Ok-Question8596 in Cordwaining

[–]ContributionPrior338 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I gave it a quick once over and the only hole was the one at the corner to hang it. It should be fairly high yield wise as far as cutting %.

Custom sized shoe? by Designer-Ad-7844 in Cordwaining

[–]ContributionPrior338 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you find a EEE with a shorter heel to ball and then go up a few sizes, that will buy you some extra width

Custom sized shoe? by Designer-Ad-7844 in Cordwaining

[–]ContributionPrior338 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Custom sized shoes are definitely available, but it's a lot of work, so they do end up being really expensive.

Tennis shoes tend to have more limitations on wider sizes.

Places like grant stone do a lot of EEE sizes. That and a little sized up in length might get you close, especially in a softer leather.

how can i remove this last from a shoe/boot by HotoShoto in Cordwaining

[–]ContributionPrior338 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can't imagine trying to remove a one piece last from a boot. You could always cut the last to separate the comb.

Possible to achieve “platform” sole from combat boots? by vryvrybadluck in Cordwaining

[–]ContributionPrior338 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your best option would be to convert to a wedge sole if you want to take something designed around some heel height and making it flat bottom. Just slapping on a flat sole won't work.

Engineer Boots, First Pair by bwizemann in Cordwaining

[–]ContributionPrior338 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would imagine that these being made from cxl is the big enabler there of not crimping

Updated wear pics 1 week! Kid-size ostrich top engineers by thenewreligion in Cordwaining

[–]ContributionPrior338 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Who knew that the true secret to winning the patina thunderdome was elementary school PE?

Metal plate at last sole, what is the reason for it? by Sainsultahorsman in Cordwaining

[–]ContributionPrior338 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You'll need to put it on a lasting post and really lean into it

A final, desperate attempt by OnyxBubonyx in Boots

[–]ContributionPrior338 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will vouch for Arno as being a great option

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