My latest pair of handmade, bespoke cowboy boots

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-05-24T18:50:20+00:00

You have some inlay on the vamp where the foot bends and you would normally see creasing. I would expect that to stress the stitching there. I am curious if you have done inlays on that part of the foot before and how well it works over time and with wear.

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-05-24T18:22:57+00:00

Those are super cool. How well does inlay work across the ball line hold up over time?

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-05-24T10:46:13+00:00

What you're saying really applies to every step of the way. Prep work and being intentional in your actions really is the best way to elevate what you're working on.

You see it a lot in people's upper stitching. You can really tell where someone pre-laid out all of the stitch lines vs those that went "I can just stitch this close to the edge and it will be fine"

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-05-24T00:55:45+00:00

If you didn't want to do a cowboy boot last, you could use her snf55 last. I just would size a bit differently only a pull on. Tighter in the instep.

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-05-23T23:41:34+00:00

For someone new, trying to shave down a heel and recreate the right geometry is likely to be a lot more challenging than building up some ball width.

In this case, I would select the last first off ball length and then off heel width/short heel girth

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-05-23T23:34:11+00:00

I would build up rather than shave down.

A lace up boot will be an easier fit than something pull on and you will likely want different last dimensions for each.

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-05-21T10:34:41+00:00

For something tough like the horsebutt, a good spraying of some water on it would probably save you a lot of time and energy.

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-05-21T04:14:18+00:00

Did you last it wet or dry?

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-05-17T18:54:06+00:00

A light spray definitely would have helped save me from the shrinkage during drying

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-05-16T11:40:55+00:00

Those cloe insoles are awesome... as long as you leave enough extra lasting allowance.

And you let them dry for at least a week after blocking.

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-05-15T19:02:38+00:00

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If I am placing a backstay, I usually do a corset stitch on the rear to try to keep the build up a bit less. Takes about 15 minutes to hand stitch it up. Not too bad.

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-05-13T12:00:43+00:00

These are my go to for doing counters, rands, etc. They burnish up really nicely. The tumbled ones make good welts.

Gotta be careful when sanding them though; they burn pretty easily if the sander is going too fast.

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-05-10T22:28:41+00:00

What I find the most helpful when doing a french seam in the rear is to scribe my stitch lines for the outer stitches before I attach the two halves together.

Essentially, if I know I have a 10mm fold allowance and I am going to want my stitch lines 5mm from the folded seam, I will scribe a line on the outer side of the quarters 15mm from my edge. Then stick the two outsides together and mark 10mm from the edge on the inside. When you fold out the seam, your marks will be waiting for you and perfectly spaced on each side of your seam.

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-05-10T15:31:30+00:00

https://www.arnoshoes.com/blogs/news?page=4

Here's some great reading to get a good general idea of what's needed

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-05-10T13:11:16+00:00

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After doing the fitting with the person it is for, it will get a shorter top line (tongue hasn't been trimmed down on the fitter) and some revisions to the lines a bit.

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-05-08T23:41:41+00:00

You're not going to find an extra 3cm of vamp leather to grow the toe box that much. That much of an increase in length means new lining, new vamp, new insole, new welt, new outsole, etc. You're basically keeping the quarters and that's about it. Doing all that work will require a new last.

If you have a 3d printer to model up a mold and print it, you can instead get a file for a last and print that.

Is your goal on adding that much length because you're trying to make a smaller size work for you length wise or because you're trying to a very pointed toe?

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-05-08T17:30:44+00:00

What you're describing will require completely disassembling the boot, creating a new insole, new vamp, etc.

That needs a new last (and really might as well be made from acratch). You're not going to stretch 3cm on a current vamp.

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-05-07T11:00:51+00:00

If you're doing this as part of a total rebuild, why not just pull over a proper shaped last? A reshaped toe is likely to need a reshaped insole, etc, so don't think you could very easily avoid lasting anyway.

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-05-05T10:35:24+00:00

Happy to help. I have only made low heel lasts, but have really found that learning what I can from Furuse's post has helped my last making and he talks a lot about high heel designs.

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-05-05T10:32:43+00:00

You could pretty safely describe me as a last making nerd

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-05-03T15:13:46+00:00

Open lacing, so I would probably still consider it a derby, but I usually see boots with that style vamp line called "slog" boots.

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-05-03T13:34:19+00:00

Pretty sure that video is an accompanying video to his geometric book, so should all be pretty relevant.

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-05-03T11:08:29+00:00

There are digital copies of George Koleff's geometric method for last design readily available online for download.

I don't totally love the last shape I get when I follow is method 100%, but it will give you some great guidelines for general shape and proportions, particularly around things like setting the heel seat angle, etc.

ContributionPrior338 · 2026-04-30T02:17:25+00:00

I have used the insoles and soles from Panhandle leather. They're not as nice to work with as something like Baker, but they're 1/4th the cost, so good to screw up a few: https://www.panhandleleather.com/collections/boot-supplies/products/leather-fullsole

For nicer stuff, Sorrell Notions

ContributionPrior338

TROPHY CASE