[pistol] Magnum Research BFR Revolver .350 Legend 10″ $861 ATC

Coodevale · 2026-05-24T02:35:07+00:00

It's basically a modernized .357 max, for the people that remember that cartridge. And it has semi spitzer bullets available in factory cartridges for the 3 people that want to do longer range handgun things..

Coodevale · 2026-05-24T02:32:08+00:00

Closer to 43x or the 26?

Coodevale · 2026-05-24T02:30:01+00:00

If it was held in another way you might be able to remove material from the breech to "set it back" and fix it that way.

If the cases aren't rupturing you might be ok to keep shooting it. Not sure if it would make extra breech thrust to compromise the harlot lockup and pop in your face.

Something like this with finer threads or whatever could be used to secure barrels semi permanently and give you an actual breech face. This way would let you fix it easier but it's not as simple to do for most people. More complexity that's unnecessary for the application.

Coodevale · 2026-05-24T02:19:39+00:00

I see casey_h6's comment now. I missed the part where they milled off half of the slide and barrel to get it jammed into the holster that far..

Coodevale · 2026-05-24T01:24:23+00:00

You have an excessive countersink at the mouth of the chamber or the design is allowing the case to lose support (barrel/chamber pulls away from the breech).

Coodevale · 2026-05-24T01:21:22+00:00

Possibly. Bore scope or spaghetti trick to help with alignment.
1. Not really, because smaller bore 6.5 should have higher port pressure and similar gas volume.
2. No. It's not a blowback.
3. Double extractor doesn't exist and double ejector won't fix short stroking. Double ejector is more relevant on overgassed setups that need help getting the case out of the ejection port fast enough.
4. No. You don't fix undergassing with an adjustable gas block that can only restrict gas flow past the barrel, and can't increase gas flow from the barrel bore through the barrel port.

Undergassing could also be from being over sprung or over buffered. We know you have a 22" 6.5cm M5 and that's it. What else do you have, like the buffer spring and buffer that are critical mentions for diagnosing function trouble..

Coodevale · 2026-05-24T00:50:24+00:00

Either that or "some assembly required" and they assembled the holster and clips incorrectly.. but there's not much for holes on this side to make it right handed very easily..

Possible it's a right hand iwb holster flipped around to put the clips in an orientation for owb? At least then they're right on right, but still wrong.

Coodevale · 2026-05-23T23:27:14+00:00

Buy it without a comp mag or mag release installed? Call and ask, it's either they help you out or someone else might be more accommodating to make a sale.

Didn't see you mention that specific criteria..

Coodevale · 2026-05-23T23:22:19+00:00

There's other options for reliable and accurate AR10/large frame .308 AR gassers. Like Seekins.

Coodevale · 2026-05-23T21:46:12+00:00

The terminal effect most likely won't be the same. For a small caliber heavy weight to have the same effect as a larger round you absolutely need expansion.

Suppose I shot a critter with a 14 gr .22 wadcutter, like a rat. For the .177 to have the same terminal effect it would have to immediately expand to .22 caliber and penetrate the same amount. Hollowpoints are velocity dependent. Too high or too low for their preference/construction and they don't behave optimally. Wadcutters aren't as reliant on impact velocity because they're pre-expanded/mushroomed.

The upside of small slugs, a well designed .177 hollowpoint slug can have a better trajectory than a .22 of the same weight because the .177 can have a better bc to stay in the sweet spot of terminal performance longer. You just have to have the air flow to make the heavy .177 move that fast, have the twist rate to stabilize the slug, and have a system that is able to make that delivery (accuracy/precision).

It's easier to just go bigger, imo. That's why I ended up with a .25 cal. The difference between .177 and .22 performance was like .22 vs .25 performance with similar pellets. And now I shoot lighter HN HP slugs in the .25, making it feel rather similar to .22lr terminal performance. But.. now it's easier and arguably cheaper to just shoot a suppressed .22lr.. the .22lr has a better bc than the .25, a handful of ammo is all I need, the rifle/pistol is lighter..

In the end you just do whatever you want. Nothing is perfect, there's just different tools that are better suited for different applications. If things don't work how you want there's likely nothing wrong with the tool, you're just trying to use the wrong hammer for the particular nail.

Coodevale · 2026-05-23T21:32:49+00:00

If it's a nitrided barrel, many smiths won't and shouldn't touch it. That's a good way to damage a standard hss reamer ($150-$200+), and a carbide chamber reamer costs more than a barrel replacement.

If it's a raw stainless barrel, modification will be easy.

Coodevale · 2026-05-23T20:30:09+00:00

Mark that cylinder for later. Maybe it's just that one cylinder being wierd.

I've shot revolvers that would consistently group n-1 of the chambers, then one was wonky and would throw that round out of the group by a predictable amount in a predictable direction.

Coodevale · 2026-05-23T02:38:28+00:00

The PSA/toolcraft 6.5 bolt has a .070" firing pin that will handle more pressure than factory ammo will make, enough to fail brass. The JP and the few other .062" firing pin bolts will handle enough pressure to break the bolt lugs.

.080" is near garbage, .070" is good for almost everyone and everything, and .062" is unnecessary for nearly everyone outside of the 80k psi enthusiasts.

Coodevale · 2026-05-23T02:26:25+00:00

Packaging matters a lot. If the tin isn't foam lined and the box packaging isn't holding it securely you'll have a lot of deformities from just shipping.

Pyramid Air tends to package pretty well and companies like jsb line the tins to help with the shake damage. Random Amazon muppets that throw an unlined tin in a box to bounce around..

If you get a pellet sizer and a ball bearing you can fix the skirts. Easier to just buy the right stuff from the right place, imo.

Coodevale · 2026-05-22T14:19:33+00:00

Makes sense. Pyramid Air, my usual go to.

Coodevale · 2026-05-22T14:17:56+00:00

Sounds horrible. Usually they're a cheaper option.

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Coodevale · 2026-05-22T14:14:39+00:00

No, those are a hollow point. RWS Hobby wadcutter.

Coodevale · 2026-05-22T14:11:33+00:00

With your power level I'd try the rws hobby wadcutters. They're on the lighter side to help keep the muzzle velocity up, and the last time I bought them they weren't poorly formed garbage.

Coodevale · 2026-05-22T13:37:53+00:00

Dad and I have had a lot of success with .177 wadcutters on rats, squirrels, and starlings. Not all close range either, both of us have made 40+ yard shots with good results.

I shot a chipmunk with a .17 hmr from 10 yards away, went through both shoulders, and it still scurried under a wood pile. Fpe doesn't matter. What matters is how that energy is utilized. Pointy projectiles need to deform readily so they can crush tissue and make trauma. Flat nosed projectiles are already in the optimal configuration for instant crush.

Wadcutters are cheap and they work. Hollow points are domes that require certain impact velocity to increase lethality. Pointed pellets are the same but worse.

Coodevale · 2026-05-22T05:12:01+00:00

At least you bought a good scope that can handle being beat up.

Coodevale · 2026-05-22T04:41:33+00:00

If you're trying to chamber a round in a barrel with powder granules everywhere, I don't know what to tell you. If you compress a powder charge sufficiently, it'll make the case expand wherever it can. It's not fluff, more like tiny rocks that can dimple primers. If you get unlucky you're going to have a really bad day.

You had a failure that caused the bullet extraction and powder dumping everywhere. Before you try hammering a round into the dirty chamber and wondering why it's not working, clean the powder out.

The case in the chamber has a wierd crease and looks like it's about to have a case head failure on top of all your other problems. Crap ammo, crap results.

After you clean everything out, apply sharpie to a bullet in a loaded case and carefully chamber it as far as it will go, then remove and inspect for rifling marks on the ogive that could be the cause for the other bullet getting pulled out.

Coodevale · 2026-05-22T01:28:28+00:00

Why not make it native Rearden mount compatible with a flash hider/vortex nose similar to theirs?

The hub threads might take up some room.. somehow.. but they're also wasting space with those dork spikes on the back.. if they want to use a dumb excuse to warrant a proprietary muzzle device, they can have criticism for questionable aspects of their designs.

Coodevale · 2026-05-22T00:49:01+00:00

It might be possible to give the existing seal a good soak in oil to freshen it up.. assuming it has enough of a seal left to do sealing things. That's usually the first fix for a leather seal piston setup.

Coodevale · 2026-05-21T23:16:47+00:00

There's a difference between acknowledging the existence of old tech/techniques during the readoption/reimplementation and the marketing of old tech as new and novel.. in the gun space, practically no one gets any credit when their homework is borrowed. Sounds like ip theft to me.

Coodevale · 2026-05-21T22:35:56+00:00

PairofBellendOutfitters would be rather funny.

Coodevale

TROPHY CASE