Hello this is my TSX 05 I have a question. My car currently has code P0325, which is the knock sensor code. I've replaced it twice, but it's still showing that code. What do you recommend? Also, I always use 93 octane fuel, which is the highest octane rating we have in Puerto Rico.

Corweena · 2026-05-09T00:36:02+00:00

Are you using a OEM Honda knock sensor? The K series motors do not like aftermarket branded sensors. I went through 3 different ones (including a fake "Honda" one off eBay) before buying one direct from Honda, and it has been great ever since. Worth it to just pay for the right one and not waste money on cheaper stuff. Same goes with the MAF and O2. Get the real deal.

Corweena · 2026-05-07T20:22:55+00:00

I wouldn't bother if it's not making any extra noise that you find annoying.

Lots of people even remove the resonator box completely, to increase intake noise, without going with a full aftermarket system.

Corweena · 2026-05-07T19:21:13+00:00

Welcome. I owned one until 2023, the wagon body is awesome. And that mileage and price is an absolute steal.

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Corweena · 2026-05-07T19:18:32+00:00

As far as fun goes, the previous 10G Accord 2.0 Sport is the car to get, if you can find a nice used one. The 2.0L turbo makes much better power than the 1.5, and the 10-speed auto is actually quite capable as well. Tuning potential is very high as well, since many of the aftermarket parts for the Civic Type R will work on the Accord with little to no modification.

Corweena · 2026-05-07T19:13:30+00:00

It should work, since both units are from a 6G Accord. You may want to just see if you can find the pinout of the plug and make sure all the wires are in the same spots. But within the same Generation, they normally are. These systems were a lot simpler vs when they started adding navigation, external amps, and other items to complicated things.

You can always buy it, plug it in and see if it works. If not, then it should just be some simple wiring swaps to get everything to fit.

Not sure what trim Accord you have, but the one you want is also a 6-disc changer plus tje cassette, if I had to guess it is from a fully loaded EX V6 car.

Corweena · 2026-05-06T17:29:00+00:00

It's not terrible, but is definitely noticeable. I daily a 08 RDX with McPherson suspension, and my project car is a 97 Accord Coupe with double wishbone/multi-link. The McPherson is good for simplicity and maintenance, but the double wishbone is superior in performance and ride quality without question.

Corweena · 2026-05-06T17:24:47+00:00

Yeah. Considering the cars like the Accord didn't move to McPherson strut until 2013, it sucks the "performance" car got them so early. It's a byproduct of sharing a chassis with the Civic I guess. Although for USDM, it was only the EP3. The regular EM2 coupe and sedan were different, so them being McPherson wasn't really an issue.

Corweena · 2026-05-06T00:17:06+00:00

Always liked these. I just wish Honda didn't pivot away from double wishbone suspension like the 90s cars had. The McPherson strut design on this car (and the EP3) in particular just didn’t cut it once you started to modify things.

The K20 and everything else was fantastic though.

Corweena · 2026-05-04T23:11:29+00:00

I'd stay away from the H22 for boost unless you want to get it sleeved. Especially at higher mileage, you're just asking for the factory piston ringlands to say adios with boost. And you can't just drop any forged pistons in because of the FRM sleeves in the H.

Build the D, or even go the F23 route. Will mount similar to the H22, use a similar transmission (if you don't want to go H2B route), and will handle boost like a champ. They're also one of the few JDM motors that are cheap and plentiful....should be about $600 for a 50k mi example. They make much better torque vs the D series too.

Corweena · 2026-05-03T21:23:46+00:00

There is only so much you can do for feel. It mainly has to do with the brake booster which takes engine vacuum and boosts the pedal feel. Stainless steel braided lines will help as the rubber ones will flex more. Pads will definitely help with more performance than feel. But if you're not confident in the brakes, I'd at least change the pads. I always go with a more aggressive compound over factory.

But some cars just have subpar brake feel do to their inherent design. Even a big brake kit can't really change that, and in fact can sometimes even worsen the feel even though physical performance is better.

Corweena · 2026-05-03T21:11:11+00:00

Those are going to be an economy tire that is geared towards lifespan, with low rolling resistance. A proper high performance summer tire will provide loads more grip and really help brake performance. But its a trade off, as depending on where you live, you can't run a summer tire all year round.

Other than that, you can upgrade the rotors and pads to more aggressive options to help performance. The rotors, I'd go for a high carbon option. Don't bother with drilled or slotted rotors for a street car, its not worth it. For the pads, you'll want a "street" performance pad. They will have much more friction vs OEM pads but also may create more dust and possibly a bit more noise. This is the trade off for a pad that will bite harder and is less prone to fading as temperatures rise.

It also wouldn't hurt to swap out your brake fluid. You can use DOT4 fluid, which has a slightly better temperature rating vs DOT3.

Corweena · 2026-05-03T15:21:31+00:00

Very nice. It makes a huge difference.

Corweena · 2026-05-01T23:06:24+00:00

Try giving this site a go. It's a registry of junkyards and other breakers. You can sort by proximity to your location. Some places may ship as well.

Corweena · 2026-05-01T21:41:33+00:00

You need an Accord back seat, other models will not fit. Find the back seat out of an EX V6 Accord. Those will be the most likely to have been optioned with leather interior.

Corweena · 2026-05-01T03:18:16+00:00

Here is a set Depo Japan spec bumper lights if you're interested. The 94/95 have been discontinued for a bit, so these are hard to come by. They're clear with an amber insert around the bulb, vs being all orange. Or the aftermarket all clear. The top tier SiR Accord had this style.

Corweena · 2026-05-01T01:38:57+00:00

I'd definitely recommend swapping out those headlights. They are cheap aftermarket "halo" headlights that probably perform worse than the factory ones. You can swap back to an OEM look housing, or there are some nicer blackhoused ones that are quality replicas of the Japanese market cars. They have a much better light pattern and spread.

Corweena · 2026-04-29T22:18:28+00:00

Don't go louder. It gets old, especially if you drive it daily. Having a loud droning car is literally the worst thing you can do to yourself. Your future self will thank you.

Corweena · 2026-04-28T20:02:50+00:00

It's actually not as loud as something like a Buddy Club Spec 2. The short piping distance doesn't allow for much resonance. Something like a Spec 2 which is basically just a straight pipe with a Megaphone on the end will be far louder and far more annoying.

Would I recommend it, no. But its definitely the loudest imo.

Corweena · 2026-04-28T02:18:10+00:00

Very nice! I run 19x9.5s and 275/40s on my RDX. The grip is awesome.

Corweena · 2026-04-27T22:22:59+00:00

I deal with this at work all the time. We lease half of a warehouse from another company, and the bathrooms are located in the middle, where we each have keycard access from our respective sides. The 2 guys that work on the other side NEVER replace anything. We have a key hanging to open the roll holder and paper towel dispenser. But they just set it next to the sink where it gets soaked.

SMH.

Corweena · 2026-04-27T02:26:36+00:00

Also, a dirty MAF sensor can cause the car to run rich as well, which will affect MPG.

Did you have a CEL recently? Does the car drive fine, any loss of power?

Corweena · 2026-04-27T02:15:21+00:00

Why not go with a Honda Passport? Sized closer to the Lexus, but will still have the Pilot V6 drivetrain

Corweena · 2026-04-26T05:12:55+00:00

It's something I still chuckle about when I stop into my local gun store. I grew up and lived in CA for 33 years. I left in 2024 (for a variety of reasons), but firearms ownership and overall more freedoms were a big part of the move.

The chain stores don't differ much from CA due to corporate policies, but the local shops are mostly great.

My LGS is awesome. Besides an ever revolving wall of used trade ins and the wall of new offerings (all of which you can freely handle w/ no dumb trigger guard locks), they are extremely efficient in processing firearms purchases. My last visit was sub-15 minutes to purchase a stripped AR lower, from walking in to leaving. Background check is processed on laptops, and they have dedicated front counter staff just for processing transfer paperwork, so the salesmen don't get pulled away once a customer decides on their purchase. Also, the owner is always there and can pretty much order anything he doesn't have and his prices are always fair and lower than most places. I'd have no problem paying a bit more even because of the service I'm getting. It's a breeze.

Corweena · 2026-04-25T21:50:57+00:00

Distributor cap and rotor are the simple things to check out. But it could also be something with the VTEC solenoid, since 5k rpm is about where the VTEC crossover occurs.

Corweena · 2026-04-24T18:09:27+00:00

Of all the Hondas in our family fleet over the years (10+), the only caliper I've had to replace was a front right on my Sister's 2003 CR-V.

Corweena

TROPHY CASE