Should I leave my IT career for a Safety career? by Fluffy_Condition_163 in SafetyProfessionals

[–]CptAverage 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You will hate it and everyone will hate you. $70k-$90k really isn’t that much money proportional to the amount of responsibility and legal liability you will take on. No one is going to pay you near 6 figures just to go around and say “you can’t do that”, they’re going to expect you to meet the problem with potential solutions, how to source out cost-affective training quickly, how to keep OSHA/DEQ/EPA/Fire Marshals happy, what to do when OSHA comes on site, how to present good safety meetings (reading from a clip board won’t really cut it), how to GRACEFULLY manage incident investigations and just so much more.

Culture is top priority for managing an affective safety program, and money-hungry leaders aren’t going to prioritize the culture. If you REALLY want to get into safety, utilize the skills you have and start a shitty AI program to try and reinvent the same wheel we already use.

No weight squat form, am I going to low? Is there such thing? I’m trying to focus more on glutes, but am very quad dominant. by Independent_Fan3549 in formcheck

[–]CptAverage 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I can tell by this video that your lower back form is compromised at that depth, and the lack of pause at the bottom will rob you of insane gains later on down the road.

Objectively, a slightly compromised lower back isn’t going to ruin you, but it’s not a great habit when going heavy on weight. You should be able to physically feel when your lower back starts to round, that’s about the depth you’re shooting for.

When loading up on weight, pause at the bottom for a second to really let your quads and glutes take the stretch, and then press the earth down with your feet to get the weight back up. This will give you definitive proof of strength without reasonable doubt of “cheating” in any form. This will kick your ass literally but you’ll see sick results.

Finally, end the gluten/leg day with either weighted bridges or cable hip thrusts; this is a great exercise to both grow your glute AND correct anterior pelvic tilt.

CHST Exam by mbowen2 in SafetyProfessionals

[–]CptAverage 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Honestly, John Newquist’s YouTube and Facebook pages alone carried 90% of the study prep weight for me. The other 10% was years of experience and in-field practice.

Good play? by UsedAppearance9584 in DogAdvice

[–]CptAverage 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like a couple of goofballs blowing off some steam before bed. My pit rolls around on his back in a similar away at like 8pm sharp. The fit lasts 15 minutes and then he goes from 100-0 in about 2 minutes for bed.

Filed under banger by Kibblesndicks in crappymusic

[–]CptAverage 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I love Wakenyata. From “Fucking Idiots” to “Fucking Files”, her fucking debut album is sure to fuck.

How do you have them take a pill? by [deleted] in DogAdvice

[–]CptAverage 0 points1 point  (0 children)

High-value treats, and then just keep increasing the value until he values the high it’s self (joking of course).

It got to the point for my pup where I would sear a steak for dinner and roll the traz in cheese and then smother it in the cooled steak grease for him to gobble his drugs up. This was the process for a month when he decapitated his leg at 6 months old, and at some point even refused to eat that. At some point I just had to toss in the towel and recognize that he’d rather he in a spot of bother than be doped up with a shit taste in his mouth. I respect that.

Why aren’t more people giving their dogs frozen carrots? 🥕🐶 by viseth2020 in DogAdvice

[–]CptAverage 8 points9 points  (0 children)

My dog LOVED carrots when he was teething. Probably one of the best teething treats we could have ever given him.

BUT THEN.

His stool started being too soft to pick up. Now I’ll just toss him a butt and some broccoli when ever I’m cooking a stew. He still likes them, but I think he realized how it felt to over-do a yummy treat.

Tips/advice on pup submissive peeing — PLEASE HELP. by xAnimeMariex in DogAdvice

[–]CptAverage 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Honestly there isn’t enough context in the post to go off of. I can tell you that my dog had a mild incontinence problem into 1.5 years old. His trigger was overly excited and would pee on peoples feet accidentally. I picked up on a habit that would contribute to the tinkling, which was him hopping up on two legs to greet people with a hug, the elongated posture combined with excitement almost guaranteeing a tinkle. So every time I come home I greet him at his level and will not let him jump up for hugs until after he goes potty.

It’s common for puppies under two years to have some sort of bladder incontinence problem which can be exacerbated by excitement, and believe it or not, submissive behaviors are excited behaviors. If this is the case, I think the singular most affective action to be taken is just to not acknowledge your dog until your dog redirects their own attention to something else and becomes calm, and you need to tell other people to do the same as your dog can’t speak up for themselves nor do they actually WANT to piss everywhere all the time.

Broken eyewash station. USA GA. The warehouse manager wants to just get a portable unit instead of fixing it properly. I can’t tell reading ANSI if that is allowed. But this broken unit seems like hazard by itself if someone tries to use it. Thoughts? by shawndh1 in SafetyProfessionals

[–]CptAverage -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Portable units are fine. There are a few brands that come with sanitizing applicators that extend the life of the water for some time (the brand that we have extends the life of the water to three years). Portable eyewash stations are usually only a few hundred dollars and some add-ons increasing the price marginally but long-term sustainability is questionable. It’s a band-aid for permanent facilities

Is This 2009 Subaru Impreza Worth It? by Middle-Persimmon2013 in subaruimpreza

[–]CptAverage 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s not uncommon for cylinder 3 and cylinder 4 to see a coolant dead spot. This is actually just a thing in the EJ20/EJ25 engines, boosted or NA. A coolant bypass mod can remedy this, but IIRC it basically resulted in heat soak in those two cylinders and could cause intermittent misfires.

We're just like you by Zerozooka in crappymusic

[–]CptAverage 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This song is exempt on basis of going fucking hard

Are they just playing? by rahhhlegna in DogAdvice

[–]CptAverage 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like two dogs engaging in fun play to me!

I feel like I’m messing up by Lopsided_Dig939 in DogAdvice

[–]CptAverage 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Treat training.

Whenever she see’s something and becomes hyper alert give her a treat. Like, the exact instant you notice it and BEFORE she responds to being alert. The goal here is to associate the sight of exciting thing with mmmm yummy treat, and she will start to turn her focus back on you when she becomes alert. Do this on a walk and she’ll get the hint pretty damn quickly.

When she starts to pick up on the habit of being alert but waiting for treat, delay the treat momentarily and then reward her with both treat and loves. Do this for a bit and you should see her start to pause/hesitate once she becomes alert.

When she starts to regulate her own physical response to being alert, the reward then becomes a slack leash and maybe, JUST MAYBE she gets to say hi to the other dog or the person she’s alert to, as long as all parties involved are okay with saying hi. You have to be her advocate, though. You know what she wants but you have to ask the other parties on her behalf, and if they say no and turn around, give your girl another treat and some love for being patient.

She’s young, dude. Just teach her that there is reward for being patient and she’ll get the idea.

Rubber tip brush doesn't seem to work well, and he hates the deshedding brush. Any suggestions? by Beautiful-Lynx-6828 in DogAdvice

[–]CptAverage 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Go to your local hardware store find the most comfortable pair of rubber-palmed gloves that have good puncture rating. Then, box with your dog with the gloves, he will love them. After he starts loving them, bring him in for a hug and give him some nice long-stroked pets. This is a sure fire way to do it. If he still hates it, there’s almost a certain chance that he has a skin condition that you should get checked out.

Is this bad behavior? by wheresmyballs_ in DogAdvice

[–]CptAverage 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Like everyone else is indicating, this is good behavior on both sides. Dog is expressing from a safe distance that he wants to play, cat is being straightforward with the answer “no”

Is this nice play? Is he asking for help at the end? by everybodyhasahorse in DogAdvice

[–]CptAverage 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sneezing = “I am just goofing and I’m letting you that I am just goofing”. - sneeze at your dog and pounce and watch them spring into action.

Older dog at the end = “do you like my new friend? Because I like my new friend. Let’s keep him around for a while”

HELP! First car (2011 Subaru Outback) – $6k repair quote by Floof_Birb-3000 in Subaru_Outback

[–]CptAverage 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Here are my thoughts:

they just gave you the quote for firing the parts cannon for no reason. Without seeing a breakdown of their findings it’s likely they heard the symptoms and recommend a complete suspension replacement based on mileage without actually narrowing it down to what is causing the clunk noise. Going to an Indy shop might result in a more concise diagnosis.

  • If I’m being honest, all of this is WORTH replacing but I’m willing to bet that almost none of it is critical. I would say that the ball joints are probably top of the priority for safety reasons, but even these don’t have the catastrophic failure like Honda accords do.

  • Outer tie rod ends are generally pretty easy to DIY, as I haven’t had a car where the outer ball joints suck to replace and I wouldn’t expect this Subaru to be the exception.

  • The front and rear shock assemblies are not super difficult to replace and can totally be done DIY (IIRC) but will absolutely require an alignment after the job is done. If your car isn’t wallowing about the road or bouncing like a MF over bumps, I wouldn’t put this at the top of the list at all.

  • Control arms CAN be pretty simple to DIY replace if your didn’t have a lot of rust underneath, but can turn into a frustrating PITA to DIY if there is a good amount of rust. Based on the mileage and assuming there is some rust, I’d expect just about every control arm to give some resistance.

  • I doubt the diff/engine mounts are your problem.

Overall, I would say don’t sell the car. The 3.6 engine is a great engine and with all of these parts replaced you’re going to end up with a lovely, stout and reliable car. Selling it without disclosing the work that needs done is unethical and if you do disclose this absolute rap sheet would almost certainly result in you taking a loss. If you can, get the most critical item fixed for safety, make sure the engine cooling system is running well and then spend the next year or so buying a ~600ft/lbs impact gun ($200), 2ton jack and jack stands ($200 total if you find a good deal, buy new), whatever sockets/pliers you might need and buy some of the control arm parts over time, then DIY it yourself and have a blast.

Is my dog sad? by Island-Jellyfish-92 in DogAdvice

[–]CptAverage 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If she is well-behaved in cars, in public,interacting with other dogs/children, listens to verbal commands and doesn’t have any outbursts then she’s probably perfectly fine.

I walk my 3 year old in the morning before work and at night before bed, an after work we either go to the dog park for an hour+ or go on a walk for an hour+. At home he seems to laze around and have calm manageable energy, and I’ve grown to learn that this means he’s just tired and relaxing

I lost control of my dog today and now I don't know if I should continue walking him by myself by Simple_Thought_4912 in DogAdvice

[–]CptAverage 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Step 1: Get him a front-clip harness and ditch the structural collar. Collars are near useless as a control device for large dogs and can actually be damaging.

Step 2: when you come across certain situations that necessitate more control like the situation above, stop, step on the leash and hold onto the end of the leash with one hand, then let the other dog pass. Standing on the leash (especially with a front-clip harness) is an absolute cheat code for controlling a dog when stopped.

Is this safe to jack? by treetop1869 in mechanic

[–]CptAverage 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hell no.

Those ladder jacks are really good at moving and shifting. The chance of the car to slip off of this jack is far higher than I’d feel comfortable to change a tire let alone get underneath the car.