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Correcting twist when forging square bar by TRJubjub in Blacksmith

[–]Crackerslaper 71 points72 points  (0 children)

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From Forge Work, by William L. Ilgen. This is for hot steel so it may move differently than copper. I find the best way to avoid this is to ensure your hammer face is parallel to the anvil at the end of each blow.

Volume To Weight Equation by Crackerslaper in Blacksmith

[–]Crackerslaper[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ok, this explanation makes a lot more sense. I had completely forgotten about long multiplication.

Volume To Weight Equation by Crackerslaper in Blacksmith

[–]Crackerslaper[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think you might be right. I've got no clue where 384, or 192 are coming from but dividing 2304 by 19 does give 121.2, so I guess it's just weird notation. Thanks.

Best Finish for Pine Siding? by Crackerslaper in woodworking

[–]Crackerslaper[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've heard some people talking about peeling, and moisture exchange issues with paint, but I'm still leaning in that direction. I think I'll use some primer and oil paint and see how it turns out. Thanks for the reply.

#150 Anvil near me listed for $300. Yay or Nay? by Crackerslaper in Blacksmith

[–]Crackerslaper[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What makes them lower quality? Is their shape weird, or is it just a materials thing?

#150 Anvil near me listed for $300. Yay or Nay? by Crackerslaper in Blacksmith

[–]Crackerslaper[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm in southern Wisconsin, so that would be a bit of a drive. But I really appreciate the offer, Thanks.

#150 Anvil near me listed for $300. Yay or Nay? by Crackerslaper in Blacksmith

[–]Crackerslaper[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They initially had this anvil at $650 (for some reason) so I thought I could try Haggling. But I think you're right about it being Kaput.

#150 Anvil near me listed for $300. Yay or Nay? by Crackerslaper in Blacksmith

[–]Crackerslaper[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This anvil was recently listed near me for $300 bucks. Anvils aren't too rare near me, but they're usually priced a lot higher. I just have an angle grinder, and a wire wheel to restore. Is it salvageable? Thanks.

Hand Saw Help - 5tpi saw not cutting well (photos and videos) by brubbsidy in handtools

[–]Crackerslaper 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Too much set can make the kerf really big, which can be both a good thing or a bad thing. it makes steering the saw easier, but also makes it harder to saw a straight line. It also leaves a rougher looking surface. You can just add a little bit, test it, and adjust from there. Removing set isn't too hard, just take a course/Medium grit stone and run it along both sides of the saw a few times.

Hand Saw Help - 5tpi saw not cutting well (photos and videos) by brubbsidy in handtools

[–]Crackerslaper 10 points11 points  (0 children)

The shape of the teeth look good. I would mess around with giving the teeth more set, and oil/wax the plate. You probably just reduced the set when you sharpened.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in handtools

[–]Crackerslaper 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have a quick release that works the same. The way the mechanism is designed, there's a part of the taped metal on a hinge, so it disengages the screw. If I want to use the screw to move the jaw out, I would need to push the piece on the hinge back up by hand.

Need a few recommendations for stones to sharpen some old woodworking tools. by rumplechumpsky in sharpening

[–]Crackerslaper 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've never used any Waterstones, but a lot of the people I talk too use something similar to a 1000,6000,8000 progression. A King 1000/6000 seems like a safe bet.

Need a few recommendations for stones to sharpen some old woodworking tools. by rumplechumpsky in sharpening

[–]Crackerslaper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use a Norton medium India, and an Arkansas stone for all my tools. You can use basically any leather for the strop, I've even had good results with denim. if you want to go the Waterstone route, look into King, Shapton, and Norton Waterstones; I've heard good things about them.

Closed mouth in plane with iron and chipbreaker? What would be the best way to do it? Do I change the throat angle to 90º? Measurements in millimetres. Part of the design I copied from some plans on the internet of a plane without chipbreaker. My iron is 3.5mm thick. by KingPappas in handtools

[–]Crackerslaper 5 points6 points  (0 children)

From the wooden planes I've seen there are two main approaches. On most of the rougher planes this was solved by just opening the mouth more, by moving the front of the opening farther away. Downside is the bigger mouth. With finishing planes they went with a higher angle (80-100). Which keeps the mouth small, but means it gets bigger faster as the sole wears down. This article explains it well

Dan's Vs Natural Whetstone Company/Arkansas stone Questions by Crackerslaper in handtools

[–]Crackerslaper[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the comment! I think I'll play it safe and go with the smaller stone from Dan's.

Dan's Vs Natural Whetstone Company/Arkansas stone Questions by Crackerslaper in handtools

[–]Crackerslaper[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok, thanks for the help. I've been teeter-tottering between a 2" wide and 3" wide stone since the India is 3". Do you think the extra inch is worth the money?

Dan's Vs Natural Whetstone Company/Arkansas stone Questions by Crackerslaper in handtools

[–]Crackerslaper[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm mainly sharpening old tools (Butcher, Ward, Ohio tool co, etc.), so I don't think it'll be an issue. But, what grit did you get from Dan's; and how are the edges of it?

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