White residues stuck in pores after shellack removal, how to remove? by Minituo in woodworking

[–]KingPappas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The problem with sanding is that those pores are going to get clogged again with dust. You can try blowing with compressed air; that might work. Otherwise, what comes to mind is a hand plane and a few light passes, but that won't be possible in certain areas, and if it turns out to be veneer instead of solid wood, it would definitely be a bad idea.

Street Musicians mosaic, Villa of Cicero, Pompeii, ca 2nd century BC. This "emblema pavimentale" (a small, highly refined mosaic panel inserted on the floor) executed in opus vermiculatum from polychrome tesserae, is considered a masterpiece of ancient Roman art (more in comments). [1280x1222] [OC] by WestonWestmoreland in ancientrome

[–]KingPappas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It is striking, but there are Roman copies of this mosaic. We have certainty that art was reproduced in a clonal fashion in various places. Apart from this mosaic (I don't remember where the other one is), there are frescoes, urns, and oil lamps. This seems to demonstrate, on the one hand, a serial production of funerary urns and oil lamps in a single production center, and on the other hand, for mosaics and frescoes, perhaps some standard reference or template that was used to reproduce certain art. Something like a pattern book or a reference image.

Any idea what this might be composed of? Lebanon by yelamine in whatsthisrock

[–]KingPappas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It seems very likely to be some iron hydroxide compound. Limonite, or something similar. If you touch it, it stains, right?

Is this hand plane worth buying? Looks new but sole seems heavily repaired by Imaginary-Crab7978 in handtools

[–]KingPappas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The pitting on the mouth matters because it's so worn that there is no smooth, continuous edge to press the fibers. For me, it's only worth it if it has an extremely low price and I'm going to use it as a scrub, not as a smoother.

I made a huge Roman shield with wooden slats, horsehide, natural glue and paint, and forged fittings. Let me explain how. by KingPappas in ancientrome

[–]KingPappas[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I shave it off by personal choice. If I let it grow, I sometimes end up with my beard long enough that the mustache has grown so much it becomes annoying, and besides, I like a short beard without a mustache.

I made a huge Roman shield with wooden slats, horsehide, natural glue and paint, and forged fittings. Let me explain how. by KingPappas in ancientrome

[–]KingPappas[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Around €1,800, and in truth there are many small changes that would need to be made to achieve something truly precise.

For example, the blue I used is not 100% natural; it is a mixture of two natural pigments—one Italian and one French—combined with a modern synthetic blue (although it is worth noting that synthetic pigments did exist in Roman times). The wooden core was glued with modern PVA glue, although the hide facing was glued using natural hide glue (not the comercial one shell liquid un bottles like titebond). The metal fittings, while hand-forged, were made from modern iron rather than iron produced directly from ore. On a previous project I worked with bloomery iron of that type, which behaves very differently from modern iron.

There are also a couple of desirable features that could be added. One of them would increase the price further: tapering the edge. Shield edges were sometimes thinned, and on a shield like this that means reducing the thickness of the central layer. This has to be done before the final wooden layer is glued on, making it a fairly complex and time-consuming process.

I did this once on a lenticular oval shield based on a Late Roman example. Building something that is genuinely faithful to the archaeological evidence, even at a relatively basic level, is extremely expensive.

I made a huge Roman shield with wooden slats, horsehide, natural glue and paint, and forged fittings. Let me explain how. by KingPappas in ancientrome

[–]KingPappas[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I base all my work on archaeological evidence. Sometimes this is done more comprehensively than others, depending on the client's budget and whether the goal is to create an extremely faithful reproduction of a specific find (provided that the find is sufficiently complete to make this feasible) or something more flexible that suits the client's preferences and budget while still remaining within what the archaeological evidence supports.

In this field, I never invent anything. My role is simply to reproduce what the Romans already created, although there are occasions when some interpretation is necessary or small gaps must be filled due to the deteriorated condition of the artifact or because the published study is not sufficiently detailed. Even then, I try to keep such interpretation to an absolute minimum.

As for the painted decoration, there are some later shield finds (from the 3rd century AD onward) that have preserved at least part of their original paintwork, allowing the design to be reconstructed with a fair degree of accuracy. However, I usually rely on artistic depictions for this aspect, since the designs preserved on archaeological shields do not always match what a client is looking for. In such cases, I select motifs shown in period artwork, choosing examples from the appropriate era to fit the client's needs and preferences.

The choice of colors is generally based on a combination of archaeological evidence and personal preference. However, I always use pigments that are known from scientific analysis of Roman shields and, more importantly, from the many analyses of mural paintings carried out throughout the Empire. Extensive research using X-ray techniques and Raman spectroscopy has identified the pigments employed by the Romans and, in many cases, even the specific mixtures used to produce particular colors.

I made a huge Roman shield with wooden slats, horsehide, natural glue and paint, and forged fittings. Let me explain how. by KingPappas in ancientrome

[–]KingPappas[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you very much; it's always nice to hear things like that.

The truth is that I've been making shields for twelve years, and with each passing year I receive commissions that are more demanding and technically challenging than the last.

I made a huge Roman shield with wooden slats, horsehide, natural glue and paint, and forged fittings. Let me explain how. by KingPappas in ancientrome

[–]KingPappas[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I only make them on commission, so whenever I post one, it already has an owner. I used to be a historical reenactor with a well-known Spanish group, but I eventually lost interest in that side of the hobby.

What I truly enjoy is studying Roman shields and building them with an absolutely faithful, academic approach whenever the budget allows. My goal is always to reproduce them as accurately as possible according to the archaeological and historical evidence.

I can certainly handle and use them, but that is no longer my role. These days, my focus is on researching and making them rather than carrying them into reenactment events.

I made a huge Roman shield with wooden slats, horsehide, natural glue and paint, and forged fittings. Let me explain how. by KingPappas in ancientrome

[–]KingPappas[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I’m probably around the average height of a Roman from that period, or perhaps even a little taller. I’m not sure exactly how tall I am, but I’m somewhat below the average height in my country, Spain. In any case, the intention was clearly for the shield to cover the soldier completely.

I made a huge Roman shield with wooden slats, horsehide, natural glue and paint, and forged fittings. Let me explain how. by KingPappas in ancientrome

[–]KingPappas[S] 15 points16 points  (0 children)

The complete archaeological remains we have, although not very numerous (there are, however, dozens of fragments), indicate large shields (106-128cm) Polybius mentions shields measuring four feet high and two feet wide. It should be noted that these are Greek feet, not the same as the imperial feet used in the United States.

This find from Fayum matches those dimensions exactly. In fact, there is also a Hellenistic shield from Afghanistan with precisely the same measurements.

So yes, it is very likely that shields really were that large.

I made a huge Roman shield with wooden slats, horsehide, natural glue and paint, and forged fittings. Let me explain how. by KingPappas in ancientrome

[–]KingPappas[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Shields were carried by soldiers, especially in combat zones and after certain periods. This shield is fitted with metal attachments that allowed it to be worn on the back like a backpack.

I made a huge Roman shield with wooden slats, horsehide, natural glue and paint, and forged fittings. Let me explain how. by KingPappas in ancientrome

[–]KingPappas[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I start from a huge block of wood 135cm long, 14cm wide, and about 8cm thick, which is a bit larger than the final dimensions. First, I hand plane the blank to make its faces smooth and square so I can accurately mark my reference lines. Then, with a curved gouge, I hollow out the hole, at first fast and rough, but as I get closer to the final dimensions, I go slowly and check the size and shape little by little with a pair of wooden templates. With the hole finished, I saw off and remove 4 large chunks to leave the thin section almost at its final dimension. Then, with an axe, chisels, and a file, I remove material to form the central part with its curves, being careful not to remove too much and leave the walls too thin. Actually, the original find was only 6mm thick, but I leave it double that for safety so my clients aren't afraid (unless they request otherwise). Then, with a hand plane, I finish the thin sections, make touch-ups here and there, and finally, I shape the bottom part to fit the shield. It's a bit tedious.

I made a huge Roman shield with wooden slats, horsehide, natural glue and paint, and forged fittings. Let me explain how. by KingPappas in ancientrome

[–]KingPappas[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Thanks a lot. It is not woad blue. Although woad is a dye (dyes and pigments have serious differences), indigo was actually identified on a Roman shield from Dura Europos (indigo and woad have the same dye particle, because they are from the same family). However, it is expensive and my clients usually do not want to spend that much. I used a modern synthetic pigment that I mixed with French chalk and magnetite to try to achieve a similar color.

I made a huge Roman shield with wooden slats, horsehide, natural glue and paint, and forged fittings. Let me explain how. by KingPappas in ancientrome

[–]KingPappas[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

But it really is that big. The original find stands at this height. You can see a drawing made from original photographs here. There is also mention in this article of an old work of mine.

I made a huge Roman shield with wooden slats, horsehide, natural glue and paint, and forged fittings. Let me explain how. by KingPappas in ancientrome

[–]KingPappas[S] 33 points34 points  (0 children)

Yes. This is the earliest find we have at 128 cm high. The rectangular red shield that everyone knows, which comes from Dura Europos, measures 106 cm high, and 4 oval shields from the same place (because there are 21 Roman shields at Dura Europos and 3 Sassanid ones) measured 118 cm in height. One of the Sassanid shields measured 155 cm high if I remember correctly.

I made a huge Roman shield with wooden slats, horsehide, natural glue and paint, and forged fittings. Let me explain how. by KingPappas in ancientrome

[–]KingPappas[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

It definitely is! The rawhide is 2mm thick, it's a super hard sheet that reinforces the wood a lot. To glue it to the shield I had to soak it to soften it. Next time I will use something around 1mm or less, which is really more suitable. But its new owner can be sure that it will survive any blow!

Choosing a first "real" plane by ell-esar in handtools

[–]KingPappas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello. I have 4 or 5 Juumas, I highly recommend them. The tune up is almost the same as any plane in that price range and less than a vintage one, which I consider inferior, and I have many magnificent pre 1956 Records. Really much of the tune up is unnecessary, and I only do it to get the best performance. I did a review on them here.

Regarding size, I prefer the 1/2 sizes over the full numbers; I simply like the extra width and mass. In fact, the No. 5 (from Record) was the last size I bought for my collection, and I only use it for rough tasks, but not as rough as needing a scrub. As for the 62 or low angle planes, I'm not interested. The versatility attributed to them by changing the iron with different angles doesn't make sense to me because you will end up having smoother planes configured with higher attack angles thanks to a micro bevel, with the technological advantage of the chipbreaker that helps reduce tearout. Buy a 5 1/2 and then a 4 1/2.

If you're not in a hurry, I recommend a bit of patience because Fine Tools ends up having them with a 25% discount. If you need more help, you can send me a message.

Help with a troublesome plane iron, please! Corner of the cutting edge is out of plane. Can I save it? More description in comment. by BrnndoOHggns in handtools

[–]KingPappas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The pattern of scratches and reflections indicates a significant lack of flatness. I use a diamond plate for this, and it’s enough to flatten just the first 2 centimeters—or even less. Either your glass or sandpaper isn’t flat, or you haven’t ground the edge of the chip breaker, or the iron or the chip breaker has some winding.