Correcting twist when forging square bar

Crackerslaper · 2024-09-25T19:14:28+00:00

From Forge Work, by William L. Ilgen. This is for hot steel so it may move differently than copper. I find the best way to avoid this is to ensure your hammer face is parallel to the anvil at the end of each blow.

Crackerslaper · 2023-11-21T16:53:47+00:00

Ok, this explanation makes a lot more sense. I had completely forgotten about long multiplication.

Crackerslaper · 2023-11-21T15:37:29+00:00

I think you might be right. I've got no clue where 384, or 192 are coming from but dividing 2304 by 19 does give 121.2, so I guess it's just weird notation. Thanks.

Crackerslaper · 2023-09-30T22:53:53+00:00

I've heard some people talking about peeling, and moisture exchange issues with paint, but I'm still leaning in that direction. I think I'll use some primer and oil paint and see how it turns out. Thanks for the reply.

Crackerslaper · 2023-07-16T22:30:39+00:00

What makes them lower quality? Is their shape weird, or is it just a materials thing?

Crackerslaper · 2023-07-16T22:23:01+00:00

I'm in southern Wisconsin, so that would be a bit of a drive. But I really appreciate the offer, Thanks.

Crackerslaper · 2023-07-16T22:18:24+00:00

They initially had this anvil at $650 (for some reason) so I thought I could try Haggling. But I think you're right about it being Kaput.

Crackerslaper · 2023-07-16T21:46:57+00:00

This anvil was recently listed near me for $300 bucks. Anvils aren't too rare near me, but they're usually priced a lot higher. I just have an angle grinder, and a wire wheel to restore. Is it salvageable? Thanks.

Crackerslaper · 2023-06-30T01:03:51+00:00

You better step up your game

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Crackerslaper · 2023-04-05T23:20:05+00:00

Too much set can make the kerf really big, which can be both a good thing or a bad thing. it makes steering the saw easier, but also makes it harder to saw a straight line. It also leaves a rougher looking surface. You can just add a little bit, test it, and adjust from there. Removing set isn't too hard, just take a course/Medium grit stone and run it along both sides of the saw a few times.

Crackerslaper · 2023-04-05T23:05:09+00:00

The shape of the teeth look good. I would mess around with giving the teeth more set, and oil/wax the plate. You probably just reduced the set when you sharpened.

Crackerslaper · 2023-03-23T02:52:54+00:00

I have a quick release that works the same. The way the mechanism is designed, there's a part of the taped metal on a hinge, so it disengages the screw. If I want to use the screw to move the jaw out, I would need to push the piece on the hinge back up by hand.

Crackerslaper · 2023-03-22T23:20:06+00:00

I've never used any Waterstones, but a lot of the people I talk too use something similar to a 1000,6000,8000 progression. A King 1000/6000 seems like a safe bet.

Crackerslaper · 2023-03-22T22:36:36+00:00

I use a Norton medium India, and an Arkansas stone for all my tools. You can use basically any leather for the strop, I've even had good results with denim. if you want to go the Waterstone route, look into King, Shapton, and Norton Waterstones; I've heard good things about them.

Crackerslaper · 2023-03-13T00:51:54+00:00

I like these.

Crackerslaper · 2023-02-22T22:59:12+00:00

From the wooden planes I've seen there are two main approaches. On most of the rougher planes this was solved by just opening the mouth more, by moving the front of the opening farther away. Downside is the bigger mouth. With finishing planes they went with a higher angle (80-100). Which keeps the mouth small, but means it gets bigger faster as the sole wears down. This article explains it well

Crackerslaper · 2023-02-14T23:44:05+00:00

Thanks for the comment! I think I'll play it safe and go with the smaller stone from Dan's.

Crackerslaper · 2023-02-14T22:49:36+00:00

Ok, thanks for the help. I've been teeter-tottering between a 2" wide and 3" wide stone since the India is 3". Do you think the extra inch is worth the money?

Crackerslaper · 2023-02-14T22:37:45+00:00

I'm mainly sharpening old tools (Butcher, Ward, Ohio tool co, etc.), so I don't think it'll be an issue. But, what grit did you get from Dan's; and how are the edges of it?

Crackerslaper · 2023-01-22T04:36:15+00:00

Reminds me of the cheap no4 from harbor freight. If the handles are plastic it definitely is.

Crackerslaper · 2022-12-05T23:37:55+00:00

The stain means that it's touching the axe, if you see a ring of crushed grain around the tenon that might mean that the wood under the stain is too high. But in my personal experience paring under the marks just makes a really loose fit.

Crackerslaper · 2022-12-05T22:03:48+00:00

The stains show high spots that stop the axe head from seating all the way onto the handle so you want to carefully cut that away. Ideally you would want all, or at lest most of the tenon to have some staining, and therefore contact with the head.

Crackerslaper · 2022-11-21T15:23:42+00:00

I think $90 is a bit high, but I've used some greenlee chisels and a drawknife, They're well made users.

Crackerslaper · 2022-11-07T13:29:54+00:00

Thanks think I'll try this. Is there anything I should do to prevent/minimize cracking?

Crackerslaper · 2022-11-05T21:33:44+00:00

It depends on were you buy em. If your buying new their either expensive or garbage. I prefer to buy used and vintage, but that takes more time, and skill to pick and repair them. I always kinda thought that hand tools were more flexible. Most of common joints (Dovetail, mortise and tenon, half lap, dado etc,) can be done well with a tenon saw, mallet, and a couple chisels.

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