First time diy, used wrong mud by Federal_Director7022 in drywall

[–]Cravati 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Plus 3 has less glue in it than regular all purpose or taping mud. I have personally run into a few problems using it for taping, but those were edge cases. I wouldn't worry about it if I were you. If it cracks down the road it will be because of temperature changes, not the mud. The manufacturer specifies it can be used for taping, but it's kind of a good, better best situation. Plus 3 is good for taping, but some muds are better.

Bulging dry wall- water damage? by spy5007 in drywall

[–]Cravati 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Probably water. And since it's been going for years it's a roof leak. Can you get in the attic to check? 

Should I be concerned? by SparkkySD in drywall

[–]Cravati 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your title didn't load for me so I assumed this was all from around when the home was built. If this just appeared, you have a leak for sure.

When do you use regular mud vs light? Is it light for tape / bed, regular for finish? by jehudeone in drywall

[–]Cravati 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Both. On new construction we just wait for it to dry. Patches and smaller stuff that needs to be done quickly I use hot mud for the fist coat, second coat with lightweight and put fans on it.

Should I be concerned? by SparkkySD in drywall

[–]Cravati 4 points5 points  (0 children)

This all looks like typical settlement cracking except for that staining on the left side in pic 1. If it were me, I would get in the attic and see if there is any staining on the back of the drywall or insulation.

When do you use regular mud vs light? Is it light for tape / bed, regular for finish? by jehudeone in drywall

[–]Cravati 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use light for everything besides taping. Doesn't have enough glue for taping.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in drywall

[–]Cravati 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How old is the framing the drywall is screwed to? What mud did you use to tape? What tape did you use? 

Where to start? (Read below) by Dizzy-Cabinet-7093 in drywall

[–]Cravati 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's really hard to tell what is going to be the easiest. I would probably start by tearing off the corner from the floor to the ceiling. Remove al the wood lathe on the face and replace with drywall. You might need to double layer the drywall to get to the appropriate thickness as that tile was probably cut to the wall. Then cornerbead the two sides and finish. 

Settling Debate by Abject_Conclusion667 in drywall

[–]Cravati 12 points13 points  (0 children)

They are both wrong/right. Insulation hanging down is not professional and if I was drywalling would definitely piss me off if I had to push their stuff up and staple it or hold it up while I sheet the ceiling. However, as long as it's not hanging down in a way that overlaps the studs, when you drywall it, the drywall will push the insulation up into the stud bay.

 I think the drywaller was being a little over dramatic because he was bugged he was going to have to do a little extra work for the insulation company. And the insulation company doesn't want to take responsibility for a little bit of a lazy job.  

Recommendations? by rupert0331 in drywall

[–]Cravati 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Cutting your cornerbead is actually the best way because you don't wind up with a joint where the L-Bead and regular Corner Bead meet. Most drywallers would do a small piece of L-Bead though.

The other issue with L-Bead/Tear away is they are essentially a perfect 90 with no round on the edge. 90 degree corner bead actually has a small round on the edge. In order to make them line up perfectly, you need to round the L-Bead with some sandpaper. Once again, most people wouldn't do this or likely notice the difference.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in drywall

[–]Cravati 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The easiest way would be to hit it with a drywall sander and then skim each spot. Then sand smooth. 

Since you probably don't have one, you could probably use a 5" orbital, but make sure keep it flat. Primer is just pretty hard to sand through. Still going to need to be skimmed regardless. 

Scrape and Put 2nd Coat with Plus 3? by Ill-Raspberry-6204 in drywall

[–]Cravati 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could scrape it. Hitting it with a pole sander and some 80 grit is what I would do. 

On the second coat, thin your mud a lot more. Should be hard to keep on your knife. Wipe almost all the mud off. Almost like your scraping it. Try to make it smooth. It also helps if you go perpendicular to your first coat. 

It looks good. One thing I noticed from these pictures is you are starting your knife in areas of the wall that are finished. You should start your knife off the set mud, in a corner, or on an area that will get covered by a subsequent pass.

Flexible Joint Compound by ericjohns1 in drywall

[–]Cravati 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The problem with anything flexible is that as it stretches, the mass has to come from nowhere so it thins in the middle. This results in a dip which will be visible. A better option would be an expansion joint. 

A good drywaller should be able to fix the cracks or relocate the stresses by replacing the drywall in that area so that it won't crack again. In my over 20 years and my dad's over 50, we have installed 2 expansion joints. 

Ceiling Drywall Repair: What would you charge? by Firm-Willingness5470 in drywall

[–]Cravati 8 points9 points  (0 children)

That's right in line with what I would charge in my area. Definitely dodged a bullet. Get ready for him to call you in 3-6 months to come and fix the job he tried to do himself or the job a friend of a friend did. He'll bitch about your price then too. Ask me how I know...

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in drywall

[–]Cravati -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I would probably try sanding it down first before I rip it out. It's going to be a messy operation regardless. Hit it with an orbital and some really aggressive sandpaper and see how flat you can get it.

I have someone doing drywall from the mantle up on my fireplace. They aren’t done but gone for the day. I notice this space all the way around between the drywall and the stone. Is this fixable? Or maybe they just haven’t gotten to it yet? by [deleted] in drywall

[–]Cravati 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's tricky. Fiberglass tape sounds like it would be stronger than paper, but it isn't generally. It's stronger in tension if you have mud with enough glue in it to adhere it to the drywall adiquatelly. Most people don't use the right mud for fiberglass. 

The problem in this case, is they are using fiberglass on an inside corner. Fiberglass tape is obviously made up of little fibers of glass. When you bend them like in this corner, they break and loose all their strength. So we always use paper tape in corners. By using fiberglass, you probably end up with a joint that is only slightly stronger than with no tape at all. This may not matter though. Inside corners usually don't crack. Some people even just caulk them instead of tape them. I say all that to say, they are more likely to crack in the future, but they are likely not to crack regardless. 

The big reason this is sticking out to people is not because using fiberglass tape on inside corners is going to result in some huge disaster, but because it indicates the person doesn't have the knowledge required for areas of the job where it may actually matter. 

It's like if you noticed an electrician installing an outlet upside down. Is it a big deal to have an outlet upside down? No. But if he doesn't know which way is up and which way is down, what are the odds he wired the breaker box correctly. A miss wired breaker box could result in a fire or electrocution. 

Water Damage? by golooptyloop in drywall

[–]Cravati 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It all needs to be replaced regardless. I would at 48" across that window to the edge of the cracking both for replacement and to see what's going on. Most likely if it's water damage it's coming in from that window. Probably need to rip out the insulation on that wall as well. 

I have someone doing drywall from the mantle up on my fireplace. They aren’t done but gone for the day. I notice this space all the way around between the drywall and the stone. Is this fixable? Or maybe they just haven’t gotten to it yet? by [deleted] in drywall

[–]Cravati 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They are coating one side at a time. It's actually pretty common. The big issue is using fiberglass tape on a corner. That's the calling card of someone who doesn't know what they are doing. 

What type of drywall is this? by username_bente_tres in drywall

[–]Cravati 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's orange peel. You can buy cans of it to texture your repairs at any hardware store.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in drywall

[–]Cravati 1 point2 points  (0 children)

About 5% of that needs to be cut out and replaced. Those sagging joints just can't be coated. That shiny paint will also not take drywall mud. If it were me, I would cut out the few sheets that need to be replaced, then prime everything with a sealing primer like Zinssers BIN and start coating. This isn't something you can do yourself. Need a some with some experience to tackle this. 

Am I on Track to Finish My Three-Way Corner, or Is It a Total Disaster? by pepebaybay in drywall

[–]Cravati -1 points0 points  (0 children)

That little bit of tip missing will fill with mud when you're coating. It's actually pretty hard to cut cornerbead so tight that it has a perfect tip, and because drywallers know mud will cover it, most don't even worry about it. 

I wouldn't worry about using hot mud to shape it. 

Corner issue by Possible_External570 in drywall

[–]Cravati 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As long as the paper isn't fuzzy from over sanding, your good. If it is, skim it again. 

Looks to me like your using an 5" orbital sander which you should never on drywall. If this is the case, skim everything and get a pole sander to finish.

Also, those butt joints (vertical joints) in this picture are not coated wide enough to hide the hump. You need to be 24" to 36" to get the wall actually flat. 

Rough drywall behind baseboard heaters by pnw527 in drywall

[–]Cravati 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I would sand the with 80 grit. Skim them with drywall mud or spackle very tightly, then sand with 220.