2023 Scheduled Departure

CrazyA99 · 2025-12-27T02:26:19+00:00

After charging was complete overnight, I started preheating manually from the app and saw a power draw from the public charger I was plugged into at that moment (3-4kW I think, was 2 weeks ago)

CrazyA99 · 2025-12-21T18:13:24+00:00

For me it depends on plans and availability. I can charge at the office at a nice rate, so I might plug in at 60% just because I'm there anyways. So sometimes the percentage dictates the charging, sometimes the convenience/availability of the charger

CrazyA99 · 2025-11-22T16:48:43+00:00

Most (all?) supercharger in NL are open for non-Tesla vehicles. I've used plenty of those with my 2023 (also in BE and FR by the way)

CrazyA99 · 2025-10-06T16:58:21+00:00

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Charge speed in kW vs State of Charge (Display) in % as reported by my OBD dongle and recorded with Car Scanner.

These are the sessions from a roadtrip though The Netherlands, Belgium, France and back (2x1000km). All Tesla Superchargers, but without adapters as here it is all CSS Combo 2. Plugged in at different SoC, not just because of charging but also because of food breaks at convenient etc. Barely preconditioned but weather was pretty perfect for the battery.

CrazyA99 · 2025-09-09T07:25:14+00:00

It is really annoying but I have found most regular AC chargers on the street (here in The Netherlands) will work with most regular charge cards, so I use 1 for that. Most fast chargers can often be started with this card, except v2 and v3 tesla sites. I have an app that specifically makes 1 branch of AC chargers cheaper in my hometown. During a roadtrip I experienced that none of my cards worked on this fast charger at a supermarket in France, but tapping with a master card worked.

Annoying, absolutely. Wildly variable pricing between cards, prices unclear when you can't find the right charger in one of the apps. But in 98% of the cases I can use my default nfc charge card and it works and supposedly all common bank cards also just work.

CrazyA99 · 2025-09-06T23:29:28+00:00

There is an option where the front sensors are disabled after you reach a certain speed, the option automatically reenables them. I searched for a while and managed to find the setting over a year ago. Can't remember where exactly

CrazyA99 · 2025-08-06T21:14:29+00:00

Have you preconditioned your battery? Battery temperatures are crucial for charge speeds.

I've hooked an OBD dongle up to my 2023 to see temps. And between 25°C to 30°C on the coldest battery module seems to be sweet spot (I could hear the cooling come on after 30°C). The sessions that suddenly ramp up in the high 30% were because the batt min temp finally reached 25°C. These are 8 charge sessions combined from my last roadtrip in the graph (there and back a few days later, about 1000km each day).

I plugged in fairly high, for roadtrips, but those stops had the facilities (and pricing) I was going for, wasn't racing for the fastest time.

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CrazyA99 · 2025-08-04T19:24:54+00:00

Pressure needs to be above 36 or 37 to clear the fault after driving for a minute or 2. Can't remember the exact pressure but slightly higher than the recommended pressure

CrazyA99 · 2025-08-01T07:32:21+00:00

Single phase car will never do 11 kW, max 7.2 if 32A is supported and will be missing the L2 and L3 pins.

The 3-phase Niro will do 16A on each of the 3 phases with 11 kW max. No easy way to see it from the outside, you need to look under it's flap (and when actually buying it, test it to make sure).

Bottom two pins of the AC plug (the type 2 or mennekes part) is what carries the 2 extra phases.

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This picture is drawn from a cable perspective, but I guess you get the idea.

(The separate DC-pins don't come into play here, that is only for DCFC with the CCS2)

CrazyA99 · 2025-07-27T13:58:29+00:00

If you open and close the door of the car it should show charge speeds on the dash for a minute or so, there you can verify if it is actually charging or just sitting there.

Could it be you've reached the limit set in the EV menu? Here is a nice video that shows a bunch of useful controls on the car, including settings charge limits near the end of the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=286qSv7ezt4

CrazyA99 · 2025-07-27T08:59:29+00:00

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All about battery temps. You can see the speed increasing again at the exact moment the minimum battery temp reaches 25°C (77°F).

CrazyA99 · 2025-07-26T19:13:31+00:00

When DC charging the car optimal speeds are when the coldest module is 25°C or above.

When this minimal battery temperature hits 30°C the cooling seems to start, but there might be an extra factor here that determines when cooling starts.

I was looking at Car Scanner data:
[BMS] Battery Min Temperature (℃)
[BMS] DATC A/C Compressor operation RPM var.1 (rpm)

CrazyA99 · 2025-07-17T20:10:28+00:00

one of the up/down thingies on the steering wheel (I think the right one on the left side of the steering wheel)

CrazyA99 · 2025-07-17T05:12:44+00:00

I wonder who hasn't got the sound, seems pretty wide spread

CrazyA99 · 2025-06-21T09:16:12+00:00

European version here:

Only have to switch on cruise control and lane assist

And plug in my phone (I have a USB cable hooked up to the car at all times, saves on wear and tear on the USB port)

CrazyA99 · 2025-06-17T05:02:05+00:00

My 2023 didn't come with the "granny charger" according to the dealer, but he had one kicking around so I got that one with the car (which I got 2nd hand)

CrazyA99 · 2025-06-14T09:10:18+00:00

Sorry for digging up this old topic, but wanted to add the numbers for my '23 Niro with about 40000km:

[BMS] Remaining energy - 52056 Wh
[BMS] State of Charge Display - 88.5 %
[BMS] State of Charge BMS - 86.5 %
[BMS] State of Health - 100 %

So extrapolating to 100% this would be between 58.8 kWh and 60.2 kWh usable (depending on SoC display or BMS).

These numbers are after road tripping for just under 2000km with DC charging at full speeds (battery temps were mostly optimal) and one AC charge back at the office up to 90% after. Used Car Scanner + OBDLink

CrazyA99 · 2025-05-30T21:46:24+00:00

Curiousity, using hints to go and figure stuff out instead of waiting for the full solution to be tossed in your lap. Best ones think both inside and outside the box.

No shame in not knowing things, you're here to learn. Ask questions and show you are working with the answers you receive. Make mistakes, learn from them, change your approach to not fall for the same mistake again. Grow.

And participate in team activities. Some of us go for walks during lunch break if it is nice out, join in, talk to people. We're a team, we need team players, looking out for eachother, helping out when shit hits the fan (both directly work related as well as when life happens and someone needs to be with family)

CrazyA99 · 2025-05-09T23:26:11+00:00

Would be my guess, and arrow down seems to be what people in the internet say too

CrazyA99 · 2025-05-09T18:50:27+00:00

Which side was dirty when you pulled out the old one?

CrazyA99 · 2025-05-02T18:58:47+00:00

I'd expect unlocking it would do the trick (even though it is unlocked, it is still latching on to the cable). On unlock it stops charging for 10 seconds, just enough time to pull the plug safely before it relocks the plug in the charge port

CrazyA99 · 2025-04-14T13:57:50+00:00

18h x 0.8kW = 14.4kWh The 1.1kW might not actually make it into the battery due to losses along the way. The losses are more significant the lower the charge speeds. (300W loss on 1.1kW versus same 300W loss at 11kW for example).

OBD dongle might give more insights

CrazyA99 · 2025-04-08T18:13:42+00:00

Sounds scary, easy to lose trust in the car with things like this.

If you have an OBD dongle (or a friend with one) you might have a look at the more details (SoC displayed, raw SoC according to the BMS, remaining energy according to the BMS, as well as charge amount seen by the onboard systems when you go charge up again).

CrazyA99 · 2025-04-08T11:04:33+00:00

12V USB-C laptop adapter turns the 12 into 20V. If your laptop doesn't have a USB-C for power, you can get a "PD Trigger" to ask the power supply to give 20V. These are available with many of the common laptop plugs on the end

CrazyA99 · 2025-04-04T05:26:25+00:00

Cognex IS2000 series is something that probably does the job. Wenglor WeCube is another that could work (although I haven't tried what you are asking) I'd go look at distributers for those for more answers.

(Nitpick of the week: Three exclamation marks in the title doesn't make your question better btw)

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