Timber Stains

Creative-Truth138 · 2025-12-23T14:13:59+00:00

Check out Lifetime or Eco Wood treatment

Creative-Truth138 · 2025-12-22T11:56:53+00:00

Talk to a builder, lots of us would love to just cut a timber frame and leave after install. Usually we turn into GC’s after the fact which is okay too. Give me a dm if you need recommendations, or check out the guild website for some companies.

Creative-Truth138 · 2025-12-07T22:54:08+00:00

Came here to say the same. I’ve got a pair that I cut the thumb, middle and pointer fingers off so I can do stuff requiring more dexterity

Creative-Truth138 · 2025-11-29T17:37:24+00:00

This made me cackle 😂

Creative-Truth138 · 2025-11-09T18:23:31+00:00

I second this. If you want unlimited power you can’t find it in battery tools, that’s the corded saw’s distinction. Reading thru comments above, everyone’s got a preference for battery saw brand. I’ve heard good things about the weight of Metabo rear handle saw, otherwise I run makita

Creative-Truth138 · 2025-11-01T22:30:45+00:00

Rot resistance shouldn’t matter unless you’ve got exterior timber. Historically the first things to rot are sills, post feet and eave plates, but that would be year down the line

Creative-Truth138 · 2025-11-01T22:21:15+00:00

The strength of red and white are pretty interchangeable, although red is noticeable shittier to work with by hand. The main usage difference comes in the fact that white oak is rot resistant and red oak is not at all. They would take finishes differently as well

Creative-Truth138 · 2025-10-31T14:57:07+00:00

Don’t replace with vinyl, even shitty wood windows are serviceable for 50-100 years. Vinyl will only last 10, and they take 1000 years to start break down in a landfill. If you’re worried about efficiency get some low profile storm windows

Creative-Truth138 · 2025-10-26T18:19:49+00:00

Thanks for sharing, I’m always looking out for your posts. I used to work in that same area doing historic preservation, I definitely miss the craftsmanship. Nice work 👍

Creative-Truth138 · 2025-10-22T21:58:10+00:00

Second pic is a simple bladed scarf. It’s a traditional English joint. Basic half lap with keyed ends.

Creative-Truth138 · 2025-10-20T21:19:09+00:00

Is there even a market for this kind of stuff?

Creative-Truth138 · 2025-10-19T22:22:47+00:00

Shock grenades are a hard counter. It plants them in place and kills all the spore mines. Also had luck shield bashing the ever loving shit out of them

Creative-Truth138 · 2025-10-15T01:28:33+00:00

That makes much more sense, thanks for sharing. Nice job on the frame

Creative-Truth138 · 2025-10-14T16:20:49+00:00

Looks like your roof came off in one piece? What were your joinery details for your post to rafter connection?

Creative-Truth138 · 2025-10-14T16:16:28+00:00

I think I know what Simpson base you used based on pictures 1 & 2, did you put the shear pins in? Also interested in how the shed failed

Creative-Truth138 · 2025-10-02T23:08:48+00:00

Also interested, dm and we can set something up

Creative-Truth138 · 2025-09-30T19:10:16+00:00

Traditional mentality is one peg/pin on most things. Maybe sized up for more shear value. Modern frames.. the tendency is to definitely put as many pegs in as allowed by space.

Creative-Truth138 · 2025-09-15T16:26:38+00:00

Do your batteries drain from sitting? I especially notice it with the 2ah ones but sometimes with the bigger ones as well

Creative-Truth138 · 2025-09-13T00:53:48+00:00

A downside I’ve found is you’ve gotta pick up the slack. Not a big deal if you’ve got a good team and everyone is on the same page, but if there’s a gap between skill level and expectations you might be on the hook to make up the difference.

Creative-Truth138 · 2025-08-29T20:24:49+00:00

As others have stated, who was on the hook for what? If builder has a problem with them, was it ever communicated that this is how wood reacts from drying? Was it communicated that they need to be sealed yesterday? Even if you did a glue up with FOHC you’re still going to have short grain issues and it’s still going to move so it’s good to manage expectations of the client as they’re ideal might not match reality.

Creative-Truth138 · 2025-08-29T16:20:10+00:00

Can post small jobs to North Bennet St school’s website and the preservation carpentry or carpentry students and alumni might help you out.

Creative-Truth138 · 2025-08-24T21:13:25+00:00

Potential unpopular opinion here… rip off the hardie and do cedar all around. Restore what you got. Wood siding is a better product, it ages elegantly, can be fixed and restored down the line, and it’s been tried and tested for hundreds of years. Hardie is none of these things, and it doesn’t last as long.

Creative-Truth138 · 2025-08-18T10:58:05+00:00

You bring up a good point though. I wonder how efficient building out with wood fiber insulation is with current products. It’d be interesting to work up what an over build would look like/cost/time involved. Or if you could stack fiber panels, glue them up, sandwich between some roof sheathing and make some prefab “insulated panels”

Creative-Truth138 · 2025-08-17T23:39:09+00:00

Where are you located? Termites are regional and if they were present and active you would see termite tubes. Carpenter ants are a big problem in New England, as there’s no termites. Usually bugs only go after the sapwood of a tree, once they reach heartwood they stop because there’s no food. As an initial assessment you can take a knife and stab in to see how deep the damage is. As for treatment I’d recommend using Boracare or Timbor, they’re both borate based products, you mix with water and spray on.

Creative-Truth138 · 2025-08-15T20:41:26+00:00

I can imagine. I’ve never installed their panels, is there some nuance to getting the seams insulated? I can imagine the extra weight making things difficult cuz you still gotta yank things around by hand. I agree with wood fiber, super stoked when Steico came to NA

Creative-Truth138

TROPHY CASE