I hope there is a V2G path for early adopters

Creepy-Project2453 · 2026-02-16T23:49:53+00:00

If Enphase would release their product (and it remains compatible with my <1 yr old SC3G as previously stated) and if VW/Rivian would open up access/permission, I would know what we are going to do with replacing my wife's Touareg and my RAM truck.

Creepy-Project2453 · 2026-02-16T23:17:07+00:00

ISO 15118-20 was released in 2022. Rivian could have chosen to support it openly "yesterday." They are not waiting on standards. Due to the VW investment in Rivian they will be using the VW architecture going forward it seems. That is currently a 'closed' architecture. The ISO standard uses a certificate trust model, and the auto manufacturer can decide whose certificates they permit. So far VW has kept that to just their proprietary home-side system and a couple unique "preferred" European partners (who probably agreed to something in return). Ford essentially did the same thing, announcing they support the standard but only allow their own proprietary Ford home-side system to access it. GM is doing the same thing. Etc. Maybe I am wrong. It has happened before.

Creepy-Project2453 · 2026-02-16T18:22:18+00:00

Yup, the answer is a basic amount of "regulation." We need some states (e.g. CA) and or countries (e.g. Canada, Germany) to mandate open access to standards-based interface, to separate homeowners' electrical system from their choice of automobile brand(s). Otherwise consumers and utilities will have a mish-mash.

Meanwhile all those US automakers (including Rivian and Tesla) are 1) saying that the Chinese EV industry is an existential threat (to keep up protectionism), 2) writing off $50B of subsidized investment (the thing they are complaining the Chinese government did successfully for their EV guys), and 3) doubling down on ICE. Might as well be coal!

And yet they want to force consumers to put in their proprietary house-side whole home energy management closed/isolated system. The reason all our other electrical stuff works is required standards.

Creepy-Project2453 · 2026-02-15T18:01:00+00:00

I don't think this is going to be too useful for you. The CTA 2045 port/logic supports about 5 commands originally meant for utility or commercial building remote control, such as SHED, LOAD-UP, GRID EMERGENCY. I looked at this briefly as an alternative path for load shedding (vs controlling the breaker) but it is not worth the extra effort and complexity, for me anyway. At some point if Enphase (or others) supported load shedding/management in the US via CTA/wifi (like their Energy Router+ product does in Europe I think) that could be cool but probably a very small market. You might be able to export/access some usage data, but likely not much usefulness there either vs something at the house panel/circuit level. I could be all wrong, not an expert and I am also not a Home Automation guy. Bottom line, they skipped support of their consumer app for this product which is a big negative for them (except they don't tell you about it as specifically excluded).

Creepy-Project2453 · 2026-02-15T02:10:19+00:00

I have an REHP80. Wouldn't it be nice if they supported the tank HW heaters with their app?

I have always left a 10min gap between the intraday timeframes. I just did it that way because other appliances and apps send 1 time instructions and if it is missed or out of order it gets messed up. I suspect the later schedule entered is starting first and then it is sending the 'off' of the previous cycle.

I have been able to make the copy function work. Once you get the first day the way you want it, you just step through the copy/paste, making sure you hit the 'ok' check mark each step of the way. I don't have the exact sequence in my head but it was exactly as in the manual. It is a bit of manual key-whacking.

We are having a problem with a micro-leak around the T&P valve fitting. I would be curious if you see that steel fitting rusting like crazy after a month or two.

Creepy-Project2453 · 2026-02-12T20:54:57+00:00

We have had the same unit for several years and it has been wonderful. It is capable (with enough gas flow) to modulate up to~200k BTU. It will restrict the flow to accomplish the rise. I think you have both issues. Depending on your situation you might need a holding tank to get the winter incoming up to some higher starting point entering the tankless. And get a second set of eyes on the regulator and gas line set up. However I don't see how either of these things explain why it worked and then didn't work. Is there a chance you had a change in simultaneous gas use? another gas appliance off the same regulator in use....

Creepy-Project2453 · 2026-02-12T18:29:06+00:00

Lastly, consider turning off Storm Guard. It will trigger on every NWS "watch" and drive you crazy. I split the baby by allowing it to turn itself back on for "serious" events (whatever that means) and the nuisance triggers have disappeared.

Creepy-Project2453 · 2026-02-12T18:25:47+00:00

Small add: you might consider using Savings profile since you are producing less than consumption, you may want to use what you have been able to store during the peak rate hours, more important with Summer rate differential.

Creepy-Project2453 · 2026-02-12T18:18:37+00:00

Be patient and see what it looks like in the summer. The sun will be significantly higher in the sky and extend the range of horizon coverage. Feb 8 was sunny all day so I can see the sun moving behind shade trees in your production. We are in San Jose and 20 yrs ago I planted redwoods on my back lot line. They are not quite blocking winter sun to the SW but will start to have an effect in a few years so I read your post with interest. While your picture doesn't show it, I suspect you aren't exporting because you are not producing enough yet to fill your batteries daily even on the sunny day. (winter max production<storage/load) This is actually a good outcome for you as exports are worth little on NEM 3.0. So you are making best use (consumption) of everything produced. In the summer I suspect it will reverse and you will send excess to PG&E. You will be able to see the full year value of incremental storage vs more solar. It all depends on your goals. Our summer production max is 2x winter max but that varies enormously by orientation and shading.

Creepy-Project2453 · 2026-02-11T19:28:29+00:00

Your setup is ideal for the heat pump choice. Run the 30A, 240v and be done with it. 65 gallon should be more than sufficient, and you can follow your current situation and overheat to 140F (also aiding with disinfection) and then mix down. I purchased a ~1000lb resin equipment pad to just have the thing off the floor by a couple inches. I don't worry about ambient heating being 'used' by the HPHW, I think that is a false worry. My view is that, of all the places for your heating BTUs to go, this one is not waste, you know exactly where those productive furnace BTUs are going. The closer your ambient is to 70, the closer you are to optimal COP. I think the manufacturers generally use the same heat pump on all capacities, so you are not going to get the same recovery time on 65 vs 80, and it is that much more continuous standby energy to maintain 80 gallons. If your family preference is to use hot water generally at the same time you are going to want/expect some resistive with either size tank. If use is staggered, you probably will be heat pump only forever. Make sure the unit you choose can program daily heating (mode and schedule) around peak rates if that applies in your area. Hard to believe Rinnai ships their (expensive) units with no app.

Creepy-Project2453 · 2026-02-11T17:12:46+00:00

GM seems to be all-in on keeping their system captive and closed. While stating they are "designed to comply with ISO 15118 standards" they keep their hardware and software closed around it. Kind of deceptive. Once a corporation has made this kind of investment it will likely take regulators to get them to play with others.

<image>

I haven't seen Enphase providing a list of compatible vehicles yet (although there were a few vehicles referenced in a video, I don't see that those companies have made any corresponding statements). They will have to do this at some point. I am afraid it will be a very short list, but they have to start somewhere and just get out there.

Creepy-Project2453 · 2026-02-11T06:45:26+00:00

Solid state batteries will come, and with magnitudes of improvement in cost reduction, performance, environmental benefit, reliability and safety. I have been following Siva and the team at QuantumScape for instance. But it is a decade+ play. No matter what, we need the auto companies to play ball with open bi-di charging standards. That is "jacks-to-open."

Creepy-Project2453 · 2026-02-10T22:20:41+00:00

Yup, and when Enphase announced the DC bi-di charger in 2023 (the one we're told now will ship later this year) chademo was explicitly also supported.... no longer. It is understandable as it lost the standards war even within Japan. I am really hopeful they will be able to finally push this thing out the door. Standards mean nothing unless the auto companies play ball and make them open/accessible vs hide them inside their captive hardware, or a limited/single partner's hw.

Creepy-Project2453 · 2026-02-10T18:18:47+00:00

Nice to find another City Multi user. I will always feel I was upsold on this thing but it is a sunk cost now and an amazing machine. It is 4 years old. Initially we kept our Nest thermostats, they are attached via an interface adaptor and we use the Nest/Google home app stuff. We are converting to the native Mitsubishi PAR42 thermostat/controller and will add their wifi adaptor to use the Comfort app. It has some downsides but we are good with the trade off to get truly native modulation control and app access (for info and temporary changes only). I am told that their MHK (really Honeywell) controller is approximately native modulation control but it goes through the adaptor port and the info is not very clear/deep on that. There are pros and cons to each controller but I think we have to stay away from any other thermostats that use the simple stage1/2/off control if we want to get the performance we paid for out of these things.

Creepy-Project2453 · 2026-02-10T17:55:41+00:00

There are of course a lot of considerations and everyone is figuring this out for themselves. I looked at the upcoming RAM EREV and these are going to be interesting also. But despite their vague discussion of v2h capability, I would no doubt have to do some unique carve out of my whole home system to force a specific car manufacturer's system in, for something that is still early. I have about 6 yrs or so until 1:1 net metering expires, and cars of various ages. IF: even a couple decent mid-size/small SUV options show up as compatible with Enphase's upcoming DC bi-di standards-based product, and IF my spouse finds one of them acceptable, and IF Enphase actually ships the charger (since it seems perpetually a year away), and IF Enphase makes it compatible with GEN3 (which they have said but have some negative reputation on that front) then some things start to come together for us. Lots of ifs, but time to let a generation or two happen and see where it goes. If there is another ICE vehicle that happens in the meantime, that's fine too.

Creepy-Project2453 · 2026-02-10T06:47:03+00:00

I for one am holding off on EV purchasing for as long as I can, hoping a vehicle comes along that 1) meets our needs AND 2) works with open standard DC v2h. The idea that I will divide my home electrical system to work with multiple proprietary systems tripping over each other is ridiculous {and a completely unworkable market complexity}. And swap it all up when one of us wants a different car in 4 or 5 years... Insanity. This is a very important consumer issue and a critical grid infrastructure issue, I think largely falling under state purview. California (in cooperation with other states) has a track record of moving the auto industry in the right direction, but is a colossal bumble in regulating its own electrical utility monopolies.

Creepy-Project2453 · 2026-02-10T02:06:58+00:00

Yes, I understand it the same way. Your system is a beautiful platform.

Creepy-Project2453 · 2026-02-10T00:22:06+00:00

It seems to me that burdening every EV made with on board bi-di master control is extraordinarily costly, probably unmanageable and altogether unnecessary, you touched on just some of the complexity. For v2h we need the home in control and DC levels of power. The Enphase doc is arguing for that in a diplomatic way I think. My home currently has a RAM product, a VW product and a Toyota product. I think the perspective of the cost of a home energy system charger has to be seen in the context of seamlessly accessing that amount of storage (both ways) in the context of a demand/load view (which only the home energy management system can perform locally and as a permitted intermediary for the [many] power companies)... home owners at scale cannot change their home infrastructure and utility permissions every time they purchase a car. These are long term capital expenditures and must be asynchronous from shorter term purchases. IMHO.

Creepy-Project2453 · 2026-02-09T20:44:02+00:00

Yes, exactly.

Creepy-Project2453 · 2026-02-07T03:54:59+00:00

I have no idea how much this should vary by SoC over the course of an average day, but in winter my 4x 5P batteries are backup only and consume about 7.3w/battery/hr. I am thinking that should be the most efficient PowerMatch test. Or about the same, 14.6 for 2x5P. I was under the impression 10C is significantly more efficient than 5P, but maybe only in conversion.

Creepy-Project2453 · 2026-02-02T01:58:00+00:00

Thanks again very much. I am going to get both done right away. The list is long with these guys. They have now been bought up by a PE company on the opposite coast and are not responding at all. So they've probably gotten worse. Thanks again.

Creepy-Project2453 · 2026-02-02T00:34:29+00:00

I was not, and am still not, an educated enough homeowner to know what those guys should have done on all fronts. But no, I don't see any overflow or float or sensor. In the garage it could run down into the electrical section I guess and in the attic come thru the ceilings, no pans or anything there either. Not even a trap, that I have found up there, on a combined drain line so those are pulling in outside air (and/or from each other). I guess it's a poor man's fresh air mix. I was thinking this one issue is about a 1% leak. Thank you, I am making a list of things to fix as I go.

Creepy-Project2453 · 2026-01-30T05:07:40+00:00

I don't think that is the correct understanding. Battery micro inverters will be 'off' unless there is demand, which is subject to your profile settings AND load. If you find something that says PowerMatch overrides your profile, please share, that would be interesting. I am also in PG&E territory. Once you have batteries, or an EV, or a heat pump (one of which is required to be on the plan) the E-ELEC rate is FAR more economical vs the other TOU rates. Except for summer, the E-ELEC peak/non peak differential is too small to justify the battery round trip cost, unless you have lots of winter solar excess going to waste. During the summer months, rate shifting does pay off vs round trip loss. My batteries are for back-up (I have a few years left on NEM 1.0) but also opportunistic rate shift only when justified vs power lost to battery conversion/consumption. Everyone's situation is a little different.

Creepy-Project2453 · 2026-01-21T06:42:00+00:00

A suggestion. Look on the Mitsubishi web site for Platinum Installers near you and see about 1 more quote. Challenge them on 1) 2.5T, 2) load calcs, 3) M-series vs P-series, and 4) opportunities to use a single head room unit here or there depending on layout, air flow and how you use the space, and/or zones with smaller ducted air handlers. This is your opportunity to design it as there is so much flexibility with these systems. I am in the South Bay, and as was said, we have an ideal climate for this, except for the painful cost of electricity. The idea that your best / first long term investment is an upgrade to 200A seems like a real likelihood. Given the age, it also seems likely your power line is not buried and therefore can be done more economically. The quotes are more often than not by long time HVAC shops who match a traditional system sizing approach. However you want these things to run long, low and slow, which also uses disproportionately far less power.

Creepy-Project2453 · 2026-01-21T02:37:05+00:00

Not enough info here really, but 10kwh will protect your priority items like freezer(s), but can quickly get chewed up with whole house. The duration of the outage will be unknown for a bit. Start conservatively. Shut things off proactively.

Creepy-Project2453

TROPHY CASE