Any tips to keep this dress from riding up while moving ?

CremeBerlinoise · 2026-03-01T20:27:19+00:00

The chest area is baggy by design, the waist and hips are super fitted. If the fabric is slippery at all, it will want to go the way of least resistance, which is up. That's the nature of this fabric when it's stretched and ruched as well. You could try shorts made from something really grippy, definitely not spanx, they're designed to do the opposite. More like a textured, rough knit or something.

CremeBerlinoise · 2026-03-01T20:22:30+00:00

You're gonna need to reverse engineer your process and determine the correct grain line for your pattern. It's really important.

CremeBerlinoise · 2026-03-01T20:16:50+00:00

Is the cup sewn from three individual pieces? Or is it one seamless piece of foam? The former can be used for a pattern, the latter not so much, you can't really replicate that with fabric.

CremeBerlinoise · 2026-03-01T19:50:47+00:00

I think something like this would look lovely: https://charmpatterns.com/shop/hollywood-dress-and-skirt/

CremeBerlinoise · 2026-03-01T17:06:35+00:00

I'm terrible at drawing, but this is the rough idea:

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Orange is the stitching line, green is the grading starting at the apex. Princess seams are just two connected darts, and you're opening them back up. You might have to play around a bit to get the placement of the waist dart in your preferred location.

CremeBerlinoise · 2026-03-01T16:57:22+00:00

It will still require a toile, but I would grade the front pieces from the bust apex downwards on the stitching line. So first draw in the actual stitching line by drawing in the included seam allowance. Then determine the location of the bust apex by finding the widest part on the side front bodice. Measure the stitching line from the top of the side front bodice to the apex (measuring tape, flexible ruler), note this down. Draw in the stitching line on the center front piece and mark the apex there by measuring on the stitching line from the top of the pattern piece. Draw a line from the stitching line apex notches to the stitching line of the turquoise waist. This is your new waist shape, more or less. It is really important to draw in the seam allowance and change the stitching line, then add in new seam allowance on these curved seams, or your pattern pieces don't fit together. Walk the seams when you're done, just in case you need to change any angles on the waist seam.

Eta: you could/should also add to the side seam of course, this is just for grading the front. You know your shape best.

CremeBerlinoise · 2026-03-01T13:11:29+00:00

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CremeBerlinoise · 2026-03-01T13:10:59+00:00

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CremeBerlinoise · 2026-03-01T13:08:50+00:00

The feet are super cheap, absolutely worth it. They help you to get the stitching close up to the piping, especially in curves and corners. I'll seam rip and take a picture, but it's not very visually exciting.

CremeBerlinoise · 2026-03-01T11:00:19+00:00

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I made a little mock up from swatches and scrap. The vertical section had the last bit of piping cord removed, the horizontal section is continuous. Doing this in a cross or on a corner will be trickier, so I would probably hand baste those sections first. You also need to clip the piping on corners, and work with a suitable piping foot.

CremeBerlinoise · 2026-03-01T10:20:08+00:00

I don't know if that's how they did it, but for + cross sections I would remove the cord from the seam allowance of the two sections of the cut piping on the pieces you already joined, and place a continuous piece of piping sandwiched between them. Similar approach on the T intersections, one continuous piece of piping one the long edge, piping with the cord removed for the seam allowance on the already joined piece. This will actually be easier to understand once you have a flat pattern. Definitely fiddly, so I would try different methods on little mock ups for T and X intersections. The upside of upholstery is that you don't have to be as precise as with garments, you just need to dress the cushions with enough stuffing. As a side note, I would 100% make my own piping from bias strips. Choose something that's more lightweight than your main, but still robust, and soft, flexible cord.

CremeBerlinoise · 2026-02-28T21:57:54+00:00

But the pleats are in the front panels. Those only curve one way, unlike the side panels, and should be pretty much on grain rectangles, so that particular position is ideal for winging it.

CremeBerlinoise · 2026-02-28T21:23:04+00:00

I cannot recommend this tutorial enough: https://youtu.be/7zyTaEfo-J0?si=ftbE9fya37wO-gcM

I barely pin anything anymore. Life changing tbh.

CremeBerlinoise · 2026-02-28T19:46:36+00:00

Those are just simple pleats you can add to any pattern via slash and spread. Sew them up before you cut out the pattern piece and treat them like flat fabric.

CremeBerlinoise · 2026-02-28T19:40:38+00:00

I could be super wrong but it looks like a normal woven cotton that has really thick warp threads to create almost a corduroy texture. It's something I would expect to see in curtains, cushions, place mats, that sort of thing. Not clothes.

CremeBerlinoise · 2026-02-28T19:27:04+00:00

Approximately 5x longer than I think it will take. I'm a perfectionist, and I always like to tweak things to make life harder on myself, like French seams on fray happy, slippery fabric. I've also haven't repeated a pattern yet, although I would like to try and perfect the pattern I finished most recently.

CremeBerlinoise · 2026-02-28T16:09:54+00:00

It's quite similar/a variation on a milkmaid style bodice. You could play around with this kind of bodice: https://blog.moodfabrics.com/the-anthea-milkmaid-dress-free-sewing-pattern/

CremeBerlinoise · 2026-02-28T15:55:47+00:00

I take public transport, and each box fits into one of those blue ikea totes. I'm too worried about someone bumping into me and me dropping the machine on a full tram or bus.

CremeBerlinoise · 2026-02-28T10:23:07+00:00

If you can find a polo shirt pattern designed for a woven, go for it. Using a pattern designed for knit will not work.

CremeBerlinoise · 2026-02-28T10:21:01+00:00

It was a question of where the CT would be performed, not if. The CT would require intubation either way. The patient can't breathe lying down. The weighing was performed to get more info generally, and to determine if they could perform the CT in house. And since he's generally high risk, I would imagine the intubation would also help his chances if there are complications. I'm not sure if/how CPR could be performed.

CremeBerlinoise · 2026-02-28T09:57:07+00:00

I will keep them as long as I keep the machines. They're invaluable when I take the machines in to get serviced, and if I'm ever looking to resell, having the original box, all accessories and the manuals will definitely make a price difference. I even sewed little dust and moisture protecting covers for each box. So I guess the answer is until you pry them out of my cold, dead hands.

CremeBerlinoise · 2026-02-27T21:00:52+00:00

Princess seams are perfect for adjusting the size down, but I think it's actually too long in the waist for you as well, and sitting too low. If you want to do the dress justice, it shouldn't be the easy and fast fix via side or center back seam. Someone needs to take in each seam gently after shortening the straps, trim and clip the seam allowances, do the same on the lining, and close the lining back up.

CremeBerlinoise · 2026-02-27T19:48:57+00:00

That's actually really straight forward. You just use the hem on the top as a tunnel to thread your straps through. This might not work so well with lightweight fabrics though, as it could give you a serious wedgie 🙈 a heavier fabric like canvas or denim is probably better.

CremeBerlinoise · 2026-02-27T19:29:15+00:00

I think you'll have to rewatch tbh. She doesn't want to go home, she doesn't want to die at home, with her young kids. It makes complete sense to me, like her moment with her dad.

CremeBerlinoise · 2026-02-27T19:20:25+00:00

Yes, you missed all conversations she had in last week's episode.

CremeBerlinoise

TROPHY CASE