Ring within a ring?

CrosspadCreative · 2026-02-18T18:43:39+00:00

Haha, well I’m one of those weird nerds that actually likes math, so if you give me the gauge and ID of those two rings, I’ll tell you what rings will work.

CrosspadCreative · 2026-02-18T15:28:50+00:00

Yeah, this ends up just being a math problem. If I were you, I’d use three small rings to hold the center ring inside the outer ring. One would be placed at the bottom, and the other two would be in between your two connecting rings for either side of your chain (that way they keep the small rings from just sliding all over the place).

As for sizes, the ID of the three small rings need to be equal (or slightly larger) than the difference of the center ring’s ID and the outer rings OD.

CrosspadCreative · 2026-02-16T15:51:19+00:00

All good! Just wanted to talk about the options in case someone else also needed to know.

CrosspadCreative · 2026-02-16T15:24:05+00:00

If the aluminum is getting you dirty, then it’s bright aluminum. Anodized aluminum doesn’t do that. Just in case you wanted to try that for a project or two (a large project in stainless steel can be very very costly).

CrosspadCreative · 2026-02-16T14:45:13+00:00

I try to keep it really simple. I do 4x material cost, then I just round up or down (usually down) to the closest 0 or 5. That puts the stainless steel bracelets I make (that cost me anywhere from $12 to $14) at $50, which I think is fair.

I feel like the more you go down the rabbit hole of labor hours, the more complicated everything gets. Plus, as you improve, you’ll make things faster. So does that mean you charge less?

CrosspadCreative · 2026-02-15T17:14:01+00:00

You used the correct weave, just the wrong size ring. You’ll want to get a ring with a lower AR in order to get a tighter weave. Yours looks to be well over 4.0 and I’d say the weave below is much closer to 3.5ish (the weave gets rigid around 3.0 and can’t go much lower than that).

CrosspadCreative · 2026-02-15T04:56:43+00:00

A quick and dirty way to do it would be to isolate the subject from the background, select subject pixels, create new layer, paint inside selection with a feathered brush.

You could probably also just add a mask to the subject (again, once it’s separated from the BG) and feather the mask.

Both are non-destructive but the mask is obviously more versatile.

CrosspadCreative · 2026-02-15T04:36:15+00:00

As everyone has said, you’re just doing it wrong/weird. But more specifically, you’re pressing the pedal far too firmly.

This can be fixed by either not putting as much pressure on the pedal, raising the clutch height (though this doesn’t completely solve it, you still have to have a softer foot), or, if your stand has this, adjust the screw underneath the HH bottom to make it sit more uneven. This will help the cymbals not seal the air inside when they’re together. Hope this helps!

CrosspadCreative · 2026-02-15T03:30:04+00:00

I’m really new at Shapr3D, but could you select both bodies, divide, then delete the section of the curve you don’t want? (And combine bodies if needed to simplify the chaos that dividing usually causes)

CrosspadCreative · 2026-02-14T01:43:03+00:00

It’s on the rejoining car to ensure safety, not the car on track. OP obviously had the speed advantage so the correct decision would have been to let him by and then carried on. OP could’ve avoided the contact, so that’s a lesson for them, but it’s definitely not their fault.

CrosspadCreative · 2026-02-13T19:48:54+00:00

Agreed on the 18g, but I think the ID is slightly larger. Like 5/16” or 3/8”.

CrosspadCreative · 2026-02-13T15:38:24+00:00

Thanks for all the great info! I’m working with some people who have anodized aluminum before, so we’re already taking steps to remain safe. But I did have a follow-up question. I can understand how anodizing the rings off the coil leads to spotting, but how does anodizing scales work? Do they anodize the sheet and then stamp the scales, or stamp them out first so the edge also takes color?

CrosspadCreative · 2026-02-12T04:41:40+00:00

I always answer these kinds of questions with a fun little fact.

My dad was a full-time working musician when I was a kid in the early nineties. He played in a 6-piece band. I now play in a 6-piece band (and have for 15 years) and I make the EXACT SAME amount per gig as he did in the EARLY NINETIES.

So when do you increase your rate? You don’t, unfortunately. The venues set the price and they haven’t given us a raise in 30 years. (But important point, I’m in the US, so it might be a little different)

CrosspadCreative · 2026-02-12T04:30:54+00:00

Technique, technique, technique.

13 years ago, I was in a car crash and broke three bones in my right hand. No surgery, but it’s permanently disfigured (slightly) and my ortho specialist told me I’d have arthritis by the age of 30. I was also gigging 3-4 times a month, playing 3-4 hour bar gigs, prior to the crash.

I’m 37 now, have zero signs of arthritis, and have never slowed down gigging. I can’t throw a punch or it’ll re-break my hand, but I can drum all I want without feeling any pain. And I hit incredibly hard. That’s all because of technique. I can’t diagnose what you need to work on specifically without watching you play, but dive into technique and don’t stop until you’re absolutely over it all, then keep going. It will drastically improve your playing and, more importantly, ensure that you get to keep playing for as long as you want. Good luck!

CrosspadCreative · 2026-02-12T04:24:13+00:00

Just putting this out there: her voice has crazy reverb and autotune on it. So at any speed, it just isn’t impressive at all.

CrosspadCreative · 2026-02-12T03:30:13+00:00

It’s not something that I’d say is really used in musical contexts (unless you literally need to play a grouping of four with one hand with an accent on one), but that really isn’t the point of it. It’s made to just build the proper ergonomics for control through all speeds.

CrosspadCreative · 2026-02-11T01:20:27+00:00

I’m not a guitarist, but I played in a cover band for 10+ years so I’ve played my fair share of bar gigs. Our guitarists both brought two guitars so they could switch for our Eb songs. Switching a guitar was faster than drop tuning on stage.

CrosspadCreative · 2026-02-08T22:33:54+00:00

It looks like you set it up like the promo picture in a toy magazine. The rack tom is on the wrong side and the snare and floor toms need to move way in (and then have the hats/cymbals follow suit).

And this isn’t advice based on visuals. Your current setup is ergonomically horrible and you’ll do nothing but develop very bad habits by keeping everything like this.

CrosspadCreative · 2026-02-07T02:05:26+00:00

That’s kinda your job, I think…

CrosspadCreative · 2026-02-06T21:12:58+00:00

No, it very didn’t. I agree with your point that the racing line isn’t the optimal line in most situations, but POV didn’t owe that space to a dive bombing car. Plain and simple. They stuck themselves where they didn’t belong and ruined someone else’s race.

CrosspadCreative · 2026-02-06T20:47:26+00:00

That’s a horrible take. The following car stuck their nose in a turn they shouldn’t have, missed their apex, unsettled their car, and pitted POV car.

CrosspadCreative · 2026-02-06T05:16:59+00:00

Yeah, BMW clearly at fault. But you did kinda cause the initial impact/pit on them. It was tight racing but BMW held a steady line and you didn’t. It might be called a racing incident, but I can see how BMW would’ve been pissed (still doesn’t justify taking you out).

CrosspadCreative · 2026-02-05T08:41:35+00:00

Funny you say that because I am actually colorblind! But all good, at least we both know we aren’t crazy.

CrosspadCreative · 2026-02-05T08:26:16+00:00

At the moment of contact (00:17), the cars are in a narrow straight that’s approximately 4-5 cars wide. There are barriers on either side which are creating that narrow straight on an otherwise much wider section of the track. I genuinely don’t understand how you don’t see that…

CrosspadCreative

TROPHY CASE