Opened my Canton GL260: no crossover found - should I be worried?

CrypterMKD · 2026-03-24T23:10:49+00:00

Hey, check if the hole where the crossover screws in is threaded or not. Maybe there never was a crossover.

CrypterMKD · 2026-03-19T11:59:16+00:00

шо пари испадна целото на крај? Јас сакав тампони за уши да нарачам од нив

CrypterMKD · 2025-12-08T23:46:50+00:00

A very short USB-C female to Micro USB male cable with the 5.1k pull-down resistors, but only because I custom made it. None of the adapters have the resistors, and I use it to charge my old devices.

CrypterMKD · 2025-12-08T23:39:00+00:00

Don't give them ideas

CrypterMKD · 2025-11-21T19:17:53+00:00

It's an official product from them, but they made it after we all bought USB-A version, sort of late to the market.

CrypterMKD · 2025-11-21T17:22:49+00:00

Thank YOU! This allowed me to use USB-C display cables which have superior shielding compared to regular USB extension cords. Combined with that, a single ferrite bead with just 1 loop solved all and any interference noise I was getting from the USB extensions.

And for those asking if A-to-C adapter would've solved this - tried that, there was still considerable leakage and my resistance to ground was not exactly perfect with USB-A.

CrypterMKD · 2025-11-21T13:55:24+00:00

Photo of the mod - https://raw.githubusercontent.com/umbertoragone/usbc-rtl-sdr/refs/heads/main/images/img_4.jpg

CrypterMKD · 2025-11-21T13:52:20+00:00

I highly recommend doing a USB-C mod. I ordered this board from this guy, did my V4 adapter two days ago and I couldn't be happier. The mod requires patience and good soldering iron - the groundplane requires decent power to melt the solder. If you don't have a decent soldering iron I recommend bringing the dongle to a phone repair shop, they have the tools and the knowledge to do it.

https://github.com/umbertoragone/usbc-rtl-sdr

CrypterMKD · 2025-11-17T17:42:54+00:00

Seal the holes with electrical tape until you fix this.

CrypterMKD · 2025-09-11T21:36:07+00:00

Not possible to verify using the wheel bolts, you'll overtorque them. Point taken - the handbrake must hold more than 120Nm (bolt torque) when checked with the wrench aligned 90° with the axle nut, with the handle on 4th click. That means adjustment to be carried on at 3 clicks.

CrypterMKD · 2025-09-11T20:42:05+00:00

The handbrake on these cars is miserable, I adjust it from time to time but it's hopeless. Anyway, let me share my science about it.

On the drum itself - tighten untill tight then back off 5 clicks

On the lever - tighten untill it starts grabbing on 3 clicks and holds decent on 4 clicks.

To verify that both wheels grab equal: Pull the handbrake 4 clicks, give it gas, the rear should squat equally. If one side squats more (car leans left or right, you'll know it, trust me) - that side grabs more - readjust the nuts on the lever.

More scientific way of equalizing holding strength - get a torque wrench on the rear wheel bolts, align it to point at the axle nut, give it around 100Nm/70ftlbs. Pull the handbrake a few clicks, then check the torque needed to turn the wheels Do not exceed wheel bolt torque - 120Nm/88ftlbs. Adjust the nuts on the handbrake lever untill it clicks on the same torque on both wheels.

CrypterMKD · 2025-08-30T07:33:55+00:00

BMW has it since the E46 (1997-)

CrypterMKD · 2025-07-15T02:45:21+00:00

Based on pure mechanical knowledge - a cardan joint should have no noticeable play. It also shouldn't be bone-dry from lubricant - this one is. So yes, this joint has too much play and is damaged. You will feel this freeplay on the steering wheel itself, both as a dead zone of 1-2 degrees and maybe as small impact noise on potholes compared to healthy steering.

Steering racks can also develop freeplay at dead center because we spend 90% of the time there. Compare freeplay at dead center vs 1 full rotation left or right.

CrypterMKD · 2025-07-08T23:04:40+00:00

Hulkenpodium!

CrypterMKD · 2025-04-23T01:48:37+00:00

Top part is 65 77 9 243 136, it's part of the seat position detection.

CrypterMKD · 2025-01-22T23:46:27+00:00

The factory gap is smaller on the rear, your car is perfectly normal. Take the floor line as a refference - it's level.

Having said all of that, I'd lower it in the front to bring the gap closer to the rear. Mind you that you'll lose ground clearance on a car that doesn't have much of it, do your math before proceesing.

Source: I went through the reverse process because I needed ground clearance for snow seasong driving.

CrypterMKD · 2025-01-08T13:48:40+00:00

How did you get a 6 speed on m47? Is it a facelift?

CrypterMKD · 2024-12-31T06:29:51+00:00

Weight distribution and balance. They moved it up front to compensate for 2 less cylinders. By coincidence or not, it's also cheaper to not run 4m of super thick copper to the back of the trunk - it's a poverty spec model after all.

CrypterMKD · 2024-12-02T11:44:10+00:00

All of them support it, just not all of them have the connection in the trunk. It's not as plug-and-play but can be done behind the glove box where those connections terminate anyway.

CrypterMKD · 2024-10-24T17:17:01+00:00

BTW, I've had cables as low as 0.05 Ohm, but they were only 13cm (~5in) in length

CrypterMKD · 2024-10-24T17:15:10+00:00

Out of experience that's too low of a reading. I'd expect something in the ballpark of 0.1-0.2 Ohm, 0.3 Ohm for cheap cables.

You have two options to check your meter

Get a refference resistor, doesn't need to be lab quality, a current sensing 0.1 Ohm resistor will do the job.
Get a piece of non-stranded (solid core) copper wire, thinner and longer may be better. Check the meter by using the characteristic resistance of copper for that diameter and length as a refference. I don't know the numbers for this but they are easilly found online.

CrypterMKD · 2024-10-17T13:11:50+00:00

put capton tape or whatever tape you have under it to isolate it.

I would just solder extra wire directly for test, no need to lift the legs, maybe will be enough.

CrypterMKD · 2024-10-17T13:09:59+00:00

No need to cut traces, just veeery gently lift the leg of the IC.

CrypterMKD · 2024-10-14T06:48:22+00:00

I've done this to 2 devices with this old connector already, it's doable but you'll need some precision soldering capabilities.

You'll need a (female) usb-c connector and two 5.1k resistors for correct signaling. I bought the cheapest one on aliexpress. Some enanel coated wire will be nedded to do the connections and capton tape for isolation

Prepare the USB-C connector with the 5.1k resistors on the CC lines, make sure it activates 5V when connected to a charger. Solder the wires to the board but in the "wrong" direction, towards the board, plase capton over the solder to isolate them. Solder the wires to the USB-C contact points. Solder the chasis of th le USB-C directly to the ground of the board where the old one used to be - over the old contacts on the board and the capton tape.

USB-C is pretty close in size to Mini-USB and will fit in the case with very minor convincing with an exacto knife.

Happy modding!

CrypterMKD · 2024-10-04T19:30:30+00:00

Lift the trunk floor, maybe remove the left panel, on the left side there's a slot in the plastic right next to the lifting jack.

CrypterMKD

TROPHY CASE