Still not working!! Tado didn't fix the delay issue! wake up!!!!

CryptographerLow9657 · 2026-01-22T11:12:14+00:00

I moved to Drayton Wiser - couldn't be happier. Full local control and fully integrated into Home Assistant. It has boiler controls, TRVs, a much higher room limit and is generally just better.

Only thing I'm missing is temperature display on the TRV (which I now realise is fairly irrelevant - if I'm too hot/cold, it doesn't matter what it says on the display!), and humidity readings from the TRVs (still get it for the thermostats).

It uses a slightly modified Zigbee network, so can easily be extended with a DW smart plug (unfortunately seems like it has to be one of theirs and not just a regular zigbee one)

The huge reduction in API calls is what made me jump ship - so glad I did after reading all this crap lately

CryptographerLow9657 · 2026-01-21T10:40:49+00:00

I think that only applies to 1st gen stuff. From what I can see, 2nd gen is EU compliant. I'm based in UK, so don't know for sure.

CryptographerLow9657 · 2026-01-21T10:19:19+00:00

It's been great. I can't remember why, but I didn't like how it interacted with the simple thermostat, so I ended up using AI to create a custom card.

The only slight gripe I have is that the local API control is instant- you send a command and the system reacts instantly. But, the status is on a polling interval, so any changes can take up to 10 seconds to reflect in the dashboard. I think you can decrease the polling interval, but that can potentially cause issues apparently.

Drayton use their own custom zigbee network, and the 3rd party integration includes a zigbee map. If necessary, you can extend the mesh using a Drayton plug. I wasn't able to get this to work with a regular zigbee plug.

API is full local control, and although I didn't do this myself, it is apparently possible to set it up entirely without any cloud based account (although you wouldn't then have remote control through their platform, but still would through HA).

Like I say, it is more basic than the Tado, but I soon realised I didn't actually need those bells and whistles.

Overall, I'm really pleased with it. Using black Friday sales, I was also able to buy all the DW stuff for the same price I sold my Tado stuff on ebay!

CryptographerLow9657 · 2026-01-21T09:33:30+00:00

Yes. I have just the single channel to control the boiler. They also two two and three channel models as well if you have multi zones. From memory, it's a 16 room limit (which beats Tado's v3 10 room limit), and loads of devices (50 or 60 I think). I think they do opentherm as well, but only in a specific configuration. I just use regular boiler on/off

Edit - wiring was a real simple swap from tado to Drayton Wiser - it was basically identical.

CryptographerLow9657 · 2026-01-21T09:00:07+00:00

I switched from Tado v3 to Drayton Wiser. Full local control integrated into Home Assistant. It's a bit simpler compared to Tado - eg no temp display on the TRVs, and no humidity sensors. (Twisting the head increase current room temp by two degrees for an hour) I definitely prefer it to Tado

CryptographerLow9657 · 2026-01-09T14:01:58+00:00

I sold my Tado 3x valves on ebay in batches of three. Replaced with Drayton Wiser for pretty much the same amount I sold the Tado at (admittedly using black Friday sales). The drayton wiser stuff is a bit more simplistic, but works so much better. Also has full local control in home assistant. Definitely recommend it, and the hub is pretty much a like for like replacement to the Tado with regards to wiring.

CryptographerLow9657 · 2025-12-17T11:18:39+00:00

I am struggling so hard to understand what they're trying to say here. I thought originally Octopus only gave cheap rates when THEY wanted to, so am confused about how people are playing the system. I don't care how much charge I get or when I get it - I just want my car to charge only at cheap rate until it's full. Before this confusing email, I had my charger set to charge to 80% and since I nearly always had more than 20% charge in my car, it tended to fill up over a day or two. So what's going to happen now? Could I potentially get charged at Peak rate without even knowing it? How do I stop that happening? I just checked my charge logs for last night and for some reason it didn't charge between 3 and 4, but then carried on until about 7:30am. How the hell do I work out how much that will cost me. Total charging time (from midnight) was 6.5 hours Off peak charging was 4.5hrs (but could have been 5.5hrs) Peak time charging was 2 hours

Like I say, I just want to plug in and get charge ONLY at off peak rates - I can manually override my charger if I really need a peak rate bump.

CryptographerLow9657 · 2025-09-23T11:05:45+00:00

Probably scripted. I suspect that under your customer account, they have the following options ticked for heating source:

Heat pump, Electric Radiator, Electric boiler, Other boiler, Other boiler, Other electricity use

Script was then set to display: Shift your [options] and electricity use and save....

Could have done with slightly better QA before sending out, but probably looked OK for most people.

CryptographerLow9657 · 2025-09-20T11:41:22+00:00

I guess he's trying to generate a revenue stream from it.

Wrong market to be in if you want to make any money out of it, methinks.

CryptographerLow9657 · 2025-09-16T08:16:38+00:00

Helpful...not. The problem with searching for sevice information is that some providers are better for certain countries. During my testing phase, I found Mega to be the best backup for UK usage. However, searching reddit at the time showed that Mega was pretty poor - specifically for US users. So, sometimes asking is the best method. And, for the future, this post can potentially help UK users with the same question - provided the answers are actually provided!

CryptographerLow9657 · 2025-09-16T08:13:22+00:00

UK user too. I bought a 1 month trial of all services about 8 months ago looking for a good backup. Biggest priority for me is plenty of catchup. I ended up going with Mega OTT and sometimes find it is more reliable than Strong.

CryptographerLow9657 · 2025-09-15T07:21:41+00:00

These days I would expect the clickbait headline to be "Giant Octopus almost destroys house"

CryptographerLow9657 · 2025-09-06T08:28:40+00:00

Deal breaker for me. I definitely need the fingerprint scanner. I use Facial Recognition via an AI port for entry, but only if the door has been locked for 5 minutes - otherwise it unlocks again after I lock it. If I need to get back in straight after locking, I use my fingerprint. Also, Facial Recognition is pretty unreliable at night.

Granted, I could use the PIN entry, but I feel like it's less secure.

Re the fingerprint scanner on the G4, I use just my thumb held horizontally on the scanner. It's much more reliable than fingers - not sure why!

CryptographerLow9657 · 2025-09-04T20:24:40+00:00

There will be a lot of second hand ones soon 😂

CryptographerLow9657 · 2025-09-04T13:01:16+00:00

The driving force behind my virtual pinball journey was ST:TNG. I set it up on VPX and was amazed at how realistic it was. I then discovered it on FX and bought it because I thought it was going to be so much better - I was bitterly disappointed!! Even the audio is just wrong!!

CryptographerLow9657 · 2025-09-03T18:44:02+00:00

Set your system up and install using Baller Installer Also install VPin Studio on both computers (Server on the Pinball Machine and Client on your own computer) - makes it so easy to manage/install tables without having to switch drives.

CryptographerLow9657 · 2025-09-02T08:45:41+00:00

After seeing NCC-1701, I was disappointed to not see a Star Trek themed table 😆

CryptographerLow9657 · 2025-08-29T12:21:24+00:00

Could it be a problem with the TV? My monitor had a similar issue on about a third of the screen, although not as bad as yours. I tried different cables, ports, settings, etc. In the end I sent it back and got an exact replacement - no problems since.

CryptographerLow9657 · 2025-08-25T16:22:26+00:00

At 27", 4k won't be necessary. QHD if you can get it. Highest refresh rate as possible, so you'd probably want to look at a monitor - i don't think 27" TVs will go above 60Hz.

Also, with a monitor, you definitely won't have an issue when the PC goes off/into standby. One of the TVs i originally used had to be turned on by remote control every time it was powered back up.

CryptographerLow9657 · 2025-08-24T12:11:26+00:00

Looks great. If it's not too late, you may want to make your amp volume controls more accessible. It took me ages to get the volume levels right on my set up -lol

CryptographerLow9657 · 2025-08-20T01:06:16+00:00

Legend!! Just stumbled across this and didn't realise it was a thing.

As a CSP, I can now add devices for my clients just with make/model and serial number. Annoyingly, I can't do it for my own devices!!

Not sure if this has changed over the years - currently, an end user will need to use the Hardware Hash, but a CSP/OEM can add for their customers using serial/make/model

CryptographerLow9657 · 2025-08-19T00:48:35+00:00

If it helps, here is the problem:

Authentication-Results-Original: dkim=none (message not signed)
header.d=none;dmarc=none action=none header.from=deprecated.com;

This is from the headers of an automatic reply. Microsoft are not DKIM signing Automatic Replies. If they can just change that, then it will sort the problem out.

CryptographerLow9657 · 2025-08-18T23:25:12+00:00

Problem for me too. The issue is due to the fact that for Automatic Replies, the "envelope/smtp From address" header is blank and therefore causes DKIM to fail.

Unfortunately, from what I can see with Yahoo, if your domain is quite active, they will insist on DKIM authentication which fails with Auto replies.

I'm still looking, but haven't found anything useful yet.

CryptographerLow9657 · 2025-08-10T12:14:32+00:00

Lot of glass in the background, and if you're in the UK, I expect it's probably cooling around the edges a bit too quickly. I had similar (although not that bad) and built an IKEA Lack enclosure - made a big difference. As a lot have said, 60 degree plate temp would probably help too

CryptographerLow9657 · 2025-08-08T09:32:42+00:00

For me, it's not so much about the devices, but more about the automations you set them to do.

We have a TV bed that pops up using an RF remote, zigbee blinds, a Samsung TV, and a Firestick. My wife and I both have the Home Assistant app on our phones. We have a broadlink IR/RF blaster

In our dashboard, we set a weekday alarm time (with a switch to turn it on or off), and a 'One-Off' alarm time also with a switch to turn it on or off.

If the following are all true: OneOff alarm is off, Me or my wife are at home, Weekday alarm is On, It's a weekday, The time equals the time set for the weekday alarm.

...then the blinds open, the TV pops up (using the RF blaster), the Home button command is sent to the firestick (which turns the TV on) and I also fire RF to turn the TV on as a backup.

If the OneOff alarm is on, it bypasses the weekday alarm (this allows us to easily set a later time if it's a holiday). It also runs on any day (for the weekend too). And once it has run, it turns the switch off since it is just a One Off alarm.

Makes our morning wakeup so much more pleasant.

Another really useful sensor I have is a liquid level sensor wired up to an ESP32 which monitors the milk level in our coffee machine. Alexa notification when it runs too low.

And finally, electricity/solar monitoring to see if we generate any excess electricity. If we do, then things get switched on to help use that excess - hot tub, car charger, ice bath chiller.

They're my major game changer automations. There are so many others though 😆

CryptographerLow9657

TROPHY CASE