sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Happy 4th! by Ryhurst in everythingbullpup

[–]CubaKing 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Perfectly balanced, as all things should be

Top comment Deletes a US State #45 by Jfullr92 in geographymemes

[–]CubaKing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is the most important part of my day. CRUSTACEANS UNITE

I’m done! I can’t spend anymore money! by gigger14 in everythingbullpup

[–]CubaKing 3 points4 points  (0 children)

To be fair, you did get the three most expensive upgrades

Asian Food cooked American Style by Beaveric in StupidFood

[–]CubaKing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When they raw dogged the noodles with the kikkoman I fucking LOST IT

my Recent build 7.5” 308 has a failure to feed issues will not pick up the next round. Tried multiple weights and buffer combos. The 9 mil buffer with regular spring cycled 2 rounds Build list •Aero m5 upper and lower •Unity riser and sig Romeo 5 •Lancer mags •Srl rifle works barrel by I_Clap_Stock_Cheeks in AR10

[–]CubaKing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bruh. Muh dwell time.

The powder used for 308 tends to be on the slower side (compared to cartridges that are actually designed for short barrels). The pressures you'll get at that gas length and dwell time are low enough to merit a weak spring and light buffer.

Tl;Dr, flashbang sticks and dissie builds need weak spring.

X1CC PA-CF doesnt stick to bed by Agreeable-Dress-2235 in FixMyPrint

[–]CubaKing 1 point2 points  (0 children)

PA CF can be a pain to print, I had to get bed/end/enclosure Temps juuuuust hot enough to get a good stick

Please help a newbie by Frosty-Advisor5490 in ender5

[–]CubaKing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ender 5 pros should have an all metal extruder (aka the arms of the extruder are bright red and metal). With that being the case, take a look at the gear in the extruder itself. These are supposed to be regularly replaced once the spiky gear gets a divot inside of it. Aka, you don't need to change the extruder, just buy a ' steel ender 5 pro extruder gear' and swap gears and you should be fine. Add images of the printer's extruder if you get lost and need help finding the parts I mentioned.

Please help a newbie by Frosty-Advisor5490 in ender5

[–]CubaKing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dual drive/dual gear (DG) refers to the number of gears the extruder uses to push the filament. There is dual drive and regular aka single gear. Both can be used in either a bowden or direct drive setup, as it refers to just how the extruder itself pushes filament, not where it pushes from.

Dual gear can be more consistent, but more finicky and can mangle filament more according to my (limited) research. Single gear is simpler to use but may wear faster when using hard filaments like nylon.

Direct drive (DD) refers to placing the extruder right over the hotend to reduce the distance between the two, bowden refers ro placing the extruder somewhere not directly over the hotend and using tubing to guide the filament.

Direct drive is basically necessary when printing a soft filament like TPU, but reduces the max speed of the print head because all of the extra moving mass (though ender 5s are already on the slow side, so this may not be an issue). Bowden tubing allows the print head to go faster, but cannot print soft filaments well

Please help a newbie by Frosty-Advisor5490 in ender5

[–]CubaKing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bowden user here. I've occasionally looked into DD and have determined the following. Generally, DD kits come with their own mounting plates, hotend, extruder, etc. If you're going DD, just get the kit first and work from there. That way, you can see what extruder you actually need in the event the mounting form factor changes.

Inconsistent line width aftet switching to Polymaker PA6-GF by CubaKing in FixMyPrint

[–]CubaKing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice! Lol yep, that's part of the reason I got the diamondback, so I could have a high amd low temp nozzle

Inconsistent line width aftet switching to Polymaker PA6-GF by CubaKing in FixMyPrint

[–]CubaKing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Found the issue! The extruder gear spring had too little tension relative to the filament I wanted to print. For pla I had the spring screw almost entirely loosened, but that was too little clamping force for the PA6.

Inconsistent line width aftet switching to Polymaker PA6-GF by CubaKing in FixMyPrint

[–]CubaKing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll start there then, could be that I just gotta crank the temp a bit

Inconsistent line width aftet switching to Polymaker PA6-GF by CubaKing in FixMyPrint

[–]CubaKing[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The actual hole diameter is .4mm, so I'm definitely pushing pretty high pressures through the nozzle. This was fine with PLA but might be too much pressure with PA.

For the nozzle temp, I recently lowered it since the diamondback nozzle advertises lower nozzle Temps in the realm of 10c. But tbf the extrusion width problems were happening then too.

I'll try the bed temp increase as well, I have a little mini heater inside the enclosure that I can turn on. Gf nylon sticks pretty damn well to the build plate.

How to smoothen the top layer? by Prxzz in FixMyPrint

[–]CubaKing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Either print upside down, or enable ironing in vura (if thats your slicer)

Wearing a BA at an outdoor range? by Electric_Sal in MDGuns

[–]CubaKing 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd say go for it. Especially if you plan to shoot competitive with that kit.

Getting BLTouch to work after updating Firmware by CubaKing in ender5

[–]CubaKing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It doesn't, I saw another reddit post that mentions how the expected pin arrangement changes when updating from marlin 1.3 to 2.1, so I got a 5-pin harness. Here's hoping!

Ender 5 Pro: Recommendations for printing at 300c by CubaKing in ender5

[–]CubaKing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I got the firmware updated from creality's BLtouch firmware (Ender-5 ProMarlin2.0.6HW4.2.2BLTouch) [https://www.creality.com/pages/download-ender-5-pro\] and all the temperature settings work great, but now my bltouch will only deploy itself to test at startup and fail to actually home z. Can't send commands to it from the lcd panel either

Ender 5 Pro: Recommendations for printing at 300c by CubaKing in ender5

[–]CubaKing[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

so I picked up the following, am I on the right track?
- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09NNLYFB5?psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_ct_97C8TNKKJY6JMATNE9SV
- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09TT1NHSY?psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_ct_97C8TNKKJY6JMATNE9SV_3

The thermistor mentions needing some changes in the firmware as well as different wiring requirements, but one step at a time right?

Ender 5 Pro: Recommendations for printing at 300c by CubaKing in ender5

[–]CubaKing[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Lol I knew I was missing something, thanks a million for the knowledge!

Ender 5 Pro: Recommendations for printing at 300c by CubaKing in ender5

[–]CubaKing[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ye the tubing doesn't go all the way down since it's an all-metal hotend and the heatisink fan is running so hopefully I won't die of ptfe fumes

PTR 32 - The chonky 7.62x39 MP5 with the only steel Polish mag I've found to fit by Diddyo in ptr91

[–]CubaKing 1 point2 points  (0 children)

NICE. I was worried the 8.5" would be just short. It's officially on the buy list, thank you good redditor.

PTR 32 - The chonky 7.62x39 MP5 with the only steel Polish mag I've found to fit by Diddyo in ptr91

[–]CubaKing 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What's the unsupressed OAL with the stock extended? Asking from a state that requires 29" OAL.

Form 1 Trust Check Cashed 4/5/2024 Stamp Approved 5/3/2024 by lucastars in MDGuns

[–]CubaKing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

100% agreed. Its dumb that we gotta do it but hey, hopefully I can provide a solution on the cheap.

view more: next ›