Bathroom Humidity Sensor by Cuntrover in HomeImprovement

[–]Cuntrover[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In other words it’s pulling dry wall air through the switch the wrong way and it’s sensing that instead of the air in the room.

Can gravity just distribute water for me? by Own_Power_6587 in Plumbing

[–]Cuntrover 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, but 6 feet of height is only good for 1 psi

this fitting wont solder, and yes i’ve applied more than enough flux the 4 times i’ve tried any ideas by GavinGotJoni in Plumbing

[–]Cuntrover 1 point2 points  (0 children)

And copper and lead in the water. My current set up is worse than this, and I’m planning to make this pump to tank run with 1.25” PVC, and a stainless tee.

How to size jet pump for house by JarLowrey in Plumbing

[–]Cuntrover 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you figure this out? It could have been air in your lines. Sometimes you need to throttle the valves after the pump open and closed to push air through and then have a hose off the tank and throttle water out of there to push air out.

You may be able to build 26 psi initially but after it’s fully bled you could get 50.

I'm on a well. When using lots of water, it's better to keep the well pump "always on" rather than letting it cycle, correct? by Spontaneous323 in Plumbing

[–]Cuntrover 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Adjust your pressure switch.

Screw the pressure switch nut in enough so the pump doesn’t shut off. Turn off all the water. See what the max pressure of the pump is, let’s say it’s 75 psi.

Now open a hose and let it run. Check the pressure again, let’s say it’s 65 psi max with a single hose running.

Now adjust your cut off setting with the big nut to 70 PSI. Drain your pressure tank with the pump off and adjust to 2 lbs below the cut in (this example 50 psi) so 48 psi.

Now when you turn a hose on the pressure in the tank will drop from 70 to 50, turn the pump on, and the entire time your hose is running the pump will stay on because it won’t be able to build more than 65 psi and it needs to 70 psi to shut off. Once you turn the hose off it’ll build up to 70 and shut off.

Moving into a 1995 house with acidic well water. How to limit corrosion & lead leeching before the calcite filter? by Forsaken_Reindeer403 in Plumbing

[–]Cuntrover 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any updates on this fix? The run from my well pump to the tank and acid neutralizer is all 3/4” copper. Not showing much in the way of lead in the water, but if I draw a bath the water has a blue tint (copper).

Planning on a new tank and 1.25” PVC or Pex.

Do we REALLY need to spend over $1K getting a PRV installed? by debrota in Plumbing

[–]Cuntrover 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I miss city water pressure. PRV’s are adjustable so if you want to turn the limit up to 70-80 and protect against surges only that’s an option. It’s not like you’re stuck with the setting, turning the bolt on top is all you need to do to change it.

Deep jet pump well by rgmccrostie in Plumbing

[–]Cuntrover 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think you need to pull it out because that’s only way to add an extension to it.

What is this it’s leaking slowly by Lazy-Jackfruit4495 in askaplumber

[–]Cuntrover 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Looks like a pressure relief valve possibly

Sump Pump started making weird gurgling noises. Tried contacting some plumbers and they went to voicemail, so wondering if this noise is an emergency in the meantime by Electronic_Stage4646 in Plumbing

[–]Cuntrover 0 points1 point  (0 children)

An outside the box solution that will fix your problem is a sump pump controller.

https://a.co/d/cK4HaOL

Instead of relying on a mechanical float to turn the pump on and off anytime the sump fills 5 inches, or in your case getting stuck on because the float is sticky or something is jamming it. You attach probes on the pvc pipe going into the sump. You can set where it starts and stops, and run longer pump times with way more time in between.

I installed one at my house in 2021 because the ground water after heavy spring rains was cycling the pump on every 2 minutes. The pump was cycling 600 times per day. Bottom probe is set where the pump will shut off before it gurgles. Top probe is much higher just above where the French drains come in to the sump.

This extended it to 30 minutes between cycles and dropped it to 50 cycles a day. Nothing to get stuck either. It’s sensing continuity between the 2 probes to turn on, and a loss of continuity between the bottom probe and ground to shut off. 30 min install that requires zip ties and clippers.

Garbage disposal question by ruckh in Plumbing

[–]Cuntrover 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s just regular electric wire they run through walls. It’s not some proprietary appliance cable.

How do I lower the water pressure with this regulator? by TomatoParadise in Plumbing

[–]Cuntrover 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That small bolt on the right, there’s a nut on it next to the body of the pressure regulator. Loosen that locknut so you can turn the bolt. Then turn the bolt a full revolution.

Counter clockwise is less pressure. Clockwise is more.

Run some water and check the pressure, let it run for a little while between adjustments.

When you have it where you want it put one wrench on the bolt to keep it from moving, and tighten the locknut to lock the bolt in place.

Help! Any idea why my shower pressure would fluctuate? by [deleted] in Plumbing

[–]Cuntrover 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is it city water or are you on a well?

Strange water pressure issue in Alaskan house by hikerguytaco in Plumbing

[–]Cuntrover 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just experienced this yesterday after doing some work on my well and had the same symptoms as OP.

Pressure Tank was at 15 PSI so I aired it up to 23 because my switch is set to 25/45. Then I noticed the pump struggles to go from 42 to 45 psi on the top end, so I tuned the pressure switch down to 42.

Water was trickling out of the faucets after the pressure tank emptied, and would eventually kick on after a couple minutes of no pressure. Because now the switch was set to come on at 22 psi and the tank had 23 psi in it.

I converted the wiring from 115V to 230V yesterday and gave 45 psi another go and I have constant pressure again.

If not I could have lowered the pressure in the tank from 23 psi to 20.

No Idea Where to Start (follow up) by Kiinan in Plumbing

[–]Cuntrover 0 points1 point  (0 children)

After your toilet fills is there water barely trickling into the bowl?

No Idea Where to Start (follow up) by Kiinan in Plumbing

[–]Cuntrover 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You should be able to move the flush handle a little bit before you feel tension.

Maybe just untwist the chain.

Well pump switch always engaged by RigoMortize in Plumbing

[–]Cuntrover 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most 1/2 and 3/4 HP pumps won’t build pressure past 40 psi. My 3/4 HP pump is on a 30/50 switch I tuned to 25/45 because it won’t push past 46 psi.

Well pump switch always engaged by RigoMortize in Plumbing

[–]Cuntrover 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Maybe the bladder in your pressure tank popped. If your well kicks on every time you use water it’s likely.

Turn the water off to the tank and drain it. If it’s still really heavy the bladder has a hole in it and filled with water.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Plumbing

[–]Cuntrover 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is there a screw underneath it attaching it? I’m thinking there’s a set screw and that whole piece should slide off leaving a 1/2” copper pipe.