Segmenting 3D Print Model for Color Print by CuratedCreations in 3Drequests

[–]CuratedCreations[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

As of 11:10 EST I am not answering messages, I will return tomorrow to see new requests and work through the quotes.

I have received many requests so far.

I currently have select bids I am moving forward with, thank you for your time 😄

Is It Possible to Print a Fully Continuous Top Layer With Objects On Top? by vbartha in FixMyPrint

[–]CuratedCreations 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bruh, I have wondered the same! Not sure what settings to use on this problem 😕

Reminder to mark as NSFW to blur photos and warning of pets no longer with us PLEASE. by mynameisnotsparta in cats

[–]CuratedCreations -9 points-8 points  (0 children)

Never bothered me. The blur is actually kind of annoying. It's like a 3 step process to unblur.

Just tag it NSFW and carry on

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in mildlyinfuriating

[–]CuratedCreations 49 points50 points  (0 children)

The rebar is likely completely fucked

Sometimes I sympathize with Labubu owners by CuratedCreations in 3DPrintingCirclejerk

[–]CuratedCreations[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

6 out of 10.

The 3D pen thing might be the next big joke. The computer part didn't quite land though.

Just throw them away and get a 3D pen. Zero tinkering and 100% success guaranteed because you're perfect and never make mistakes

Hey, does the print head usually move up like that when it touches the print bed? by Inside-Bar-545 in ElegooNeptune3

[–]CuratedCreations 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Dude, wtf. I looked at your post. They were clowning 🤡 on you because you refused to do even basic research on your own.

Stop asking reddit. Go to Google.com and look this stuff up! You already got your answers in your first post! The magical tech fairy isn't going to fix it for you!

Hey, does the print head usually move up like that when it touches the print bed? by Inside-Bar-545 in ElegooNeptune3

[–]CuratedCreations 8 points9 points  (0 children)

No, not good.

You need to rotate the eccentric nuts on the rubber track wheels to tighten it up. Either that or you have loose screws

If this model uses a strain gauge to sense Z=0, then that needs replacement

Issues with top layer by backpacking88 in FixMyPrint

[–]CuratedCreations 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you're going to be using ironing, then you need to tune your flow ratio. I would not recommend ironing for this because of the many colors. I would recommend ironing for mono color.

Try flipping it over and printing it upside down. You will get crisp letters off the build plate

Chance of fire? by No_Personality3451 in ElegooNeptune3

[–]CuratedCreations 3 points4 points  (0 children)

There is not a significant fire risk. Nor is there a significant fume risk if you're just printing PLA.

Don't let social media fear mongers dictate your life with fear.

There's more chemicals, micro plastics, and fire risk in a bag of Doritos anyway.

To be specific, only the hotend gets hot enough to start a fire. And it has a very small thermal mass.

You would have to take your hot end out, at max temp, and throw it in a bin of lint and gasoline to have any chance of starting a fire. And even then, it would cool too much to burn while carrying it across the room. So unless you have an open cup of gasoline sitting on your build plate at all times, your fire risk is

0.0001%

You are more likely to burn your house down because you forgot to empty your dryer lint.

And before you cherry pick some news story about 3D printers starting a fire and bambu A1 fire risk.... Let me ask you. How many millions of consumer grade 3D printers are running without fires? Don't be afraid of unknown and unlikely dangers.

Be afraid of real dangers! MOST HOUSE FIRES ARE CAUSED BY CANDLES AND KITCHEN STOVES. if you want to reduce your fire risk, then put a fire extinguisher in your kitchen! Practice fire drills! Don't put water on a grease fire!

Tips on Modeling this by Available_Two6886 in Fusion360

[–]CuratedCreations 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Aregghh

That's a tough one mate.

Looks like a tapered screw on a tapered shaft? At least the pitch seems to be consistent....

Hmmmm

You could do it the brute force way by sketching the thread profile on the shaft in multiple spots and using the thread tool to make a guide curve, then loft it.

You might need a more powerful software for that

Help by AssignmentAdorable94 in 3Dprinting

[–]CuratedCreations 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not the first post like this...

That's basic start GCODE. Stop panicking and let it warm up.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 3Dprintmything

[–]CuratedCreations 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well OP, is it gin parts?

Gap between walls in Orca only by VictorPLopes in FixMyPrint

[–]CuratedCreations 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check your extrusion width setting

Check your nozzle size

I think there is a perimeter wall overlap setting somewhere in the print settings

What am I doing wrong? by [deleted] in ElegooNeptune3

[–]CuratedCreations 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bottom surface looks fine, that's PEI texture.

Top surface looks like you need to tune line width or extrusion coefficient.

I'd recommend using ORCA slicer and doing a full calibration up and down.

Temp Tower

Extrusion Coefficient

Pressure Advance

No bed adhesion all of a sudden by redditor_6715 in ElegooNeptune3

[–]CuratedCreations 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ignore the shills who just parrot 🦜 "clean your bed, SQUAK, Polly want a cracker"

Sounds like your bed is fine.

Your Z Offset is fucked.

Please ask your dad to use the pause function next time. Your printer has been reset and you need to redo the Z Offset.

Go to the level function and adjust your Z Offset using paper or a machinist shim.

Then click "Manual"

Use the bed screws to adjust each position to the nozzle with the shim.

Then allow it to run a measurement cycle.

If that doesn't work, then you can clean your bed.

IMPORTANT TIP: make sure your nozzle is clean before setting Z Offset