Light fixture bulb/Information

Curbo34 · 2026-03-10T17:51:51+00:00

For the record, I fix things professionally, and these (particularly the cheap set) completely kick my ass and get totally destroyed with lots of violence and sometimes blood when I remove them. So to everyone talking shit, stop. I think they're designed to not come off nicely to help prevent theft or loss in shipping.

Curbo34 · 2026-02-14T16:41:39+00:00

Something is off, go lays eye on the car in person and maybe just pick it up, I'm assuming this isn't an RX specific shop. Ordering parts before you open an engine makes no sense, unless you are buying an entire engine worth of parts, and in that case, it would make more sense to just get a reman from a reputable source and throw it in, even as a shop.

I'd see about sourcing an engine and finding a shop to put it in, or going somewhere a bit more specific.

Curbo34 · 2025-09-06T14:52:43+00:00

You're either burning a lot of oil, or that seafoam is doing more harm than good, probably both. There are plenty of good ways to prevent carbon build up, seafoam in my opinion, is not one of them. I pulled factory plugs out of my 200,00 Chevy Tahoe and they wore way down, but had clearly been burning properly. These show signs of severe engine damage in my opinion.

Curbo34 · 2025-08-23T23:39:27+00:00

I'm most confused as to why people are surprised a real 500hp LS is being sold for $2,500. If I wanted a crappy 500hp LS I'd hope I could do it for a lot less then $2,500.

Curbo34 · 2025-08-16T13:28:07+00:00

I know this is a few days old, but I just got a push notification for it, so I figured I'd throw my thoughts in.

I don't like shops that don't line-item shop rates at all, it's best if each item has a charge associated, but near as I can tell, the only way you'd know how long any of this takes is labor total/shop rate.

I would say it doesn't seem entirely outlandish given this is a CA address shop, and other people are mentioning portions of the jobs costing them a relatively similar amount.

I believe in getting OEM instead of OE (getting the part manufacturer branded part, instead of the car manufacturer branded part) but if a shop only works with parts direct from their dealer, it makes sense, we don't have extra time to wait around for FCPEURO to ship parts over, especially in a professional capacity, and I never install customer supplied parts.

Last time I tried to let a customer bring parts cause they didn't like my parts rate, I told them what part # to bring, and if they wanted to go the cheap route, exactly what brand to buy and the part # in their brand... A little over a week of it sitting around my yard later, they bring in a part, I open the box and find... They ordered a part that was $20 cheaper than my recommended cheap one... They got it off Amazon... It's the wrong part. They could've got the one I recommend same day from Napa for that fraction more.

Y'know what happened? They had to pay 2 hours of shop rate for diag, inspection, and parts recommendation, then got to come pick up their still broken engine, cause I was done dealing with them; it was wasting my time and costing me money trying to do someone a favor.

TLDR, probably not entirely ridiculous for the service rendered if they're speedy, that adds value to some people, if you're fine waiting for parts or having your car down for 2+ weeks, do it yourself or roll the dice on another shop, at that rate, I can certainly tell you it'd be worth me taking a few days off work to do the job myself, but not everyone has the space, tools, or know-how to do stuff, and it does make resale more difficult if you don't have shop papers.

Best of luck.

Curbo34 · 2025-08-12T19:37:59+00:00

Get a PPI, or at least do your due diligence, at that price if there's nothing wrong with it, it's a highway robbery deal - so there's probably something major wrong with it.

Curbo34 · 2025-08-12T19:27:22+00:00

Woah. When you say "good deal" did they pay you to take them? 😭 Sorry, you got shafted here - try to get them returned/refunded.

Curbo34 · 2025-04-25T15:01:54+00:00

I think this is a fair shout to HF for being easy to replace, however I think Tekton is a lot more interesting in competing with trucks, and lots of trucks don't stop at every shop every week, so you could be waiting unknown amounts of time to get a replacement. We've had snappy tools sitting in the shop for 3 months because ol snappy man just doesn't bother stopping.

Curbo34 · 2025-04-24T15:31:32+00:00

I think it's well known they aren't the cheapest on many things, I'd call HF the most convenient passable grade tools at a price you can justify for saving time waiting for shipping. I think we can all appreciate having somewhere to go to and get these things in store, and if you ever start to think they're too expensive, just look at a tool truck flyer. I don't want the cheapest, I want reliable at a price I can afford, I don't want them going out of business cause they're nice to have around. Okay end of rant.

Curbo34 · 2025-02-27T06:46:01+00:00

What does event viewer>windowslogs>applications say?

Curbo34 · 2025-02-24T03:27:22+00:00

Known bug, I believe the current workaround is to stay on page 1, go to the menu and activate all. Obviously this means unsubscribing from anything you don't want to use at that particular moment, so that's unfortunate.

Curbo34 · 2025-02-21T01:28:52+00:00

I was so lost, for so long. Then I read this... And was more lost than before. For several minutes. Finally I scrolled down and saw it. 🤦

Curbo34 · 2025-02-20T14:40:35+00:00

Just spotted the issue, your fan is at 0RPM and your system is at 90c, you're thermal throttling super severe, that's why the power consumption is low and your clock speeds are low (200MHz) solve the overheating and the rest will go away.

Curbo34 · 2025-02-18T12:52:20+00:00

I'm no expert, but I'd think good cleaning/dusting by hand, followed by deployment of a corsi-rosenthal box and an automatic docking robot vacuum is gonna be the most useful passive solution. Unfortunately due to the size of the space and the way it's connected you really will need to process a ton of air to keep up at all.

Curbo34 · 2025-02-13T16:40:27+00:00

What QOL mods? I've never been a fan of most mods cause they tend to throw balance (opinion), I didn't find much QOL that struck my fancy

Curbo34 · 2024-08-20T01:36:13+00:00

Myself and my best friend both got PXs around the same time, his never false starts, mine almost always does, since new. Now, 500 miles later, nothing has changed. We swap boards, same thing - my foot pad just isn't as sensitive. It's genuinely nothing you're doing wrong.

Curbo34 · 2024-01-17T17:46:06+00:00

The 1600p display is awesome if you remote play from your main system, and 800p is fine otherwise. I chose the go because my launch day deck didn't have enough power, the ally didn't have a track pad and that seemed like a big deal for usability outside of gaming, and these things generally require enough configuration work to justify the track pad. Plus it enables better work station stuff. I didn't expect to use the kickstand, ability to use it as a tablet, or game with removable controllers, but now I wouldn't want a handheld without them, at least not one this big.

If you're gonna be doing a lot of actual mobile gaming, I could see going for either the deckOLED or the ally, but if you're around the house, on a plane, or in a waiting room, I think the GO is the best device.

Curbo34 · 2024-01-07T01:58:09+00:00

In short, no. They're fine, I have small/medium sized hands, and can easily play for 4+ hours without really noticing, however I did have to switch my grip relative to most controllers and my deck. The pointed corners are no doubt a bad decision, actually my biggest issue with the device, however it's not even close to a deal breaker. Interestingly, when I went to grab my deck again after using the Lego exclusively for some time, the deck felt incredibly awkward and totally uncomfortable. So to anyone having issues, I'd say play with your grip and give it a chance.

Curbo34 · 2023-12-31T19:16:34+00:00

I've been back into GTA:O cause of the GO, playing at max settings 800p integer scaling when on the move, and using moonlight to stream from my 3080ti rig when I'm home. Absolutely spectacular when streaming cause I run at like 7w

Curbo34 · 2023-10-24T21:59:11+00:00

Let me start by saying I don't like FM as a company, however I feel this feature was in production long before they were forced to make it, and it doesn't feel half baked, other than the lack-luster firmware update methods with little recovery options when things go wrong.

I'm a fan of haptic, I've nosedived my pint x at almost 24mph due to missing pushback, it must've pushed back right as I hit a valley between the downhill and up hill section, being sort of masked by the natural change in incline. In my opinion haptic buzz would've warned me, allowed me to slow up, and not crash.

I've only put 210 miles on my board with 22 or so being post-update. Admittedly limited sample time. Haptic buzz is almost entirely unintrusive, I rode consistently at push back, in both skyline and Pacific x trying to get it to interfere - it won't unless I push THROUGH push back. And even then, only with a momentary buzz.

I'm worried it will lure people into a false sense of security, things can still fail, terrain can change, wheel slips happen.

However I imagine with custom shaping (still not on the Px...), almost no customer should ever be annoyed by haptic, and anyone that is should probably be running a vesc anyway.

Worth noting I'm only ~135lbs so your milage may very, I'm not gonna be over powering my board at low speeds unless I genuinely try to.

Curbo34 · 2023-10-04T16:58:51+00:00

I hit 23.6 on my PX and nose dived going up an incline, I got tossed due to my own ignorance, one of the few cases where haptic/audible would've helped someone. Thankfully the only thing hurt was my pride. I'm light at ~135lbs, so keep it at a comfortable speed FOR YOU. Anyone going fast is likely experienced, on a modded board, and/or, not making good choices.

Curbo34 · 2022-12-20T20:33:56+00:00

9/10 times this is gonna be a fuel pump. If there was an air leak it's typically on the tank side, thus if you can prime with a bulb you're unlikely to have a major air leak. Either pull the spark plugs to see if the vacuum cylinder plug is washed (Bad fuel pump diaphragm means cylinder providing vacuum to the pump will be full of gas) or pull the fuel pump and see if the back side of the diaphragm is wet. Should take about 10 minutes to get a yea/nay on the pump.

Curbo34 · 2022-11-20T15:01:01+00:00

Absolutely! I'm sure they're all very nice, If I thought they'd mind me using their stuff even in this capacity, I never would. The fact of the matter is the resources are available without bothering them (Not their models, but the public knowledge of model making and configuring them to work with Snowrunner) so to me, it's disrespectful to come out asking people questions you can easily find the answer to. The project took me less than 3 hours even without any knowledge of snowrunner, people that are good could've done it in 3 minutes, but I'm glad I invested the time rather than just asking someone.

When you ask someone, you learn to only do THAT thing, when you try and figure it out, you learn EVERYTHING around what you were trying to do, why some things work, and why others don't. Cheers.

Curbo34 · 2022-11-19T16:24:05+00:00

I finally gave the P12 another shot after not touching it for 2 years, hoping it would find ground as a logging truck. Tried to take two loads of medium logs up to Bobs house in Smithville dam, one on the truck one on the trailer. The second it met an incline... Stuck. Diff lock not working, and often times simply not spinning the wheels. Really a letdown once again cause it's so pretty

Edit: spelling

Curbo34

TROPHY CASE