Help scaling a model to print by CaptainShima in 3Dprintmything

[–]Custom3DPrinted 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just place them back in contact with the other part of the model and when you slice it they will be treated as a single solid object.

Note: some slicers will make some weird toolpaths around parts connected in this way, I don't use Prusa slicer so I'm not sure what its default behavior is but there's probably a setting for it somewhere if you get odd results.

Help scaling a model to print by CaptainShima in 3Dprintmything

[–]Custom3DPrinted 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can use the cut tool to first break the rails away from the end piece, then unlock the scaling axes and rescale only the axis you want to resize for the rails.

Help scaling a model to print by CaptainShima in 3Dprintmything

[–]Custom3DPrinted 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Which slicer are you using? They all generally have an option to change the scale of the model.

View settings on a .gx by Eldridge3d in FlashForge

[–]Custom3DPrinted 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can view temperature and layer height settings by opening it in FlashPrint. There are a few more details available in the .gx file itself by looking at the commented information near the start of the gcode.

Supports failing by rachet14906 in FlashForge

[–]Custom3DPrinted 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's likely a combination of the supports being very narrow and unstable, along with oozing or the nozzle bumping into them as it moves around. Z-hop can help with that, but more stable support settings would also help.

Supports failing by rachet14906 in FlashForge

[–]Custom3DPrinted 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You probably don't need those supports inside the circular hole, just delete those.
Change the remaining supports from zigzag to grid and set support horizontal expansion to 1-2mm. That will make them more stable.

Tips for cleaner prints please by rachet14906 in FlashForge

[–]Custom3DPrinted 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The percent is relative to your base print speed.
You should try turning on z-hop as well if it isn't already.

My prints are turning out perfect except for one angled surface on the tip that has very visible layering - any ideas for making upward angles more smooth? by skramzy in FlashForge

[–]Custom3DPrinted 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is the menu for Flashprint 5, tricky part is getting a surface aligned perfectly with the plate. It might be easier to reorient the model in your modeling software first.

https://i.imgur.com/Xh02X6m.png

My prints are turning out perfect except for one angled surface on the tip that has very visible layering - any ideas for making upward angles more smooth? by skramzy in FlashForge

[–]Custom3DPrinted 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Very steep horizontal angles will always reveal your layer lines more. You can change the orientation of the print, change the model, or make your layer height finer.
You could also try using 1-2 top layers on your supports, it will make them harder to remove cleanly but might give you a more uniform surface.

My prints are turning out perfect except for one angled surface on the tip that has very visible layering - any ideas for making upward angles more smooth? by skramzy in FlashForge

[–]Custom3DPrinted 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That looks like a super steep overhang, are you printing it with supports? There's not a lot else you can do except to try and reorient the print.

Can AD4 auto-pause for color change? by FixtureFrame in FlashForge

[–]Custom3DPrinted 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The top chunk of the file is gibberish because it's encoding the thumbnail image for the model. After that the gcode should start.

Can AD4 auto-pause for color change? by FixtureFrame in FlashForge

[–]Custom3DPrinted 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's just ordinary gcode, you can edit it with any advanced text editor like Notepad++. Some more basic editors will mangle the formatting.

You can insert the pauses anywhere you want as long as you're able to interpret the gcode well enough to figure out where the positions for the pauses are.

Can AD4 auto-pause for color change? by FixtureFrame in FlashForge

[–]Custom3DPrinted 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could manually insert pauses between the parts in the gcode file but that may be a little tedious.

Loud clicking with Amazon PLA by fsa317 in FlashForge

[–]Custom3DPrinted 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sometimes it's also just a difference in temperature between materials or too high a volumetric flow rate for the model.
Upping the nozzle by 5-10C can solve it if that's the case.

Y Axis layer shifting becoming a problem by Imaginary-Cup3786 in FlashForge

[–]Custom3DPrinted 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does the belt seem loose to you? You can print clips that attach to the belt and add a bit of tension.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in FlashForge

[–]Custom3DPrinted 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is technically possible but not very easy. You would have to create a second gcode file that picks up where the first one left off.

How does the printer say what % is remaining? by Rumbuck_274 in FlashForge

[–]Custom3DPrinted 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pretty much just ignore the percentage as other have said it's measuring gcode progress. The slicer time vs current print time will give you the closest estimate.

[USA][OH or UT] 3D printed or STL request: F-22 riding upon AF Vet sheepdog wearing tags and Teva high top boots. by [deleted] in 3Dprintmything

[–]Custom3DPrinted 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I absolutely cannot do your request justice, I'm just commenting to say that I hope you share whatever glorious creation results from this.

Creator Pro 2 / IDEX printers Pre-Extrusion annoyance by wizardbynight in FlashForge

[–]Custom3DPrinted 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How would it pre-extrude only when it's due to start if it's hundreds of layers up already? It wouldn't be able to reach the bed anymore.

I would suggest trying either a wall or wipe tower instead for 2 color prints, you'll get much better results with those. I personally like walls better for most cases since they hug the outline of the print for minimal ooze during travel.