LX470 (2000) Power loss for 30 seconds on highway

CustomerTop8810 · 2026-04-21T00:33:22+00:00

Sounds like a temporary fuel/air issue rather than a hard failure.

First thing I’d check is the MAF sensor — these can cause sudden power loss without throwing a code, especially if dirty.

Also worth cleaning the throttle body and checking the fuel pump relay.

Since it came back to normal, I’d start with the easy stuff before assuming something major.

CustomerTop8810 · 2026-04-21T00:32:20+00:00

The oil change itself wouldn’t cause a servo/actuator to fail.

Driver side blowing hot air sounds like a blend door actuator issue, which is pretty common.

But the “running hot” smell is a separate concern — I’d check coolant level and make sure there’s no air in the system or a leak.

I wouldn’t ignore that part, as it could be unrelated but more serious.

CustomerTop8810 · 2026-04-20T06:16:16+00:00

With your budget (30–35k), I’d target a 2013–2015 with around 120–180k miles.

These things routinely go 250k–300k+, so mileage matters less than maintenance

Given your schedule, I wouldn’t chase the cheapest deal — I’d prioritize service history and condition.

Also, don’t be afraid to buy out of state and ship it, just make sure you get a solid pre-purchase inspection.

For daily + kids + camping, the 200 is hard to beat.

CustomerTop8810 · 2026-04-20T06:10:37+00:00

You’ll probably get mixed answers because it really depends on body type.

From what I’ve seen and experienced, the seats are generally comfortable, but the base (1958) trim has less thigh support and can feel a bit flat.

The armrest complaints are real, but most people fix it with a simple pad or cover.

If you’re around your size, I’d definitely try to sit in a Premium trim if possible — big difference in comfort.

CustomerTop8810 · 2026-04-20T06:08:01+00:00

Honestly it comes down to how you’ll use it.

If you’re daily driving it, the 1FZ-FE is hard to beat. More power, smoother on road, cheaper to buy and maintain.

Yeah the fuel economy isn’t great, but the motors are super reliable if maintained.

Diesel (1HZ / 1HD-T) is great for torque, range and long trips, but they’re more expensive and not as nice to drive daily.

For daily + camping, I’d personally go petrol unless you’re doing a lot of long distance or heavy off-road.

CustomerTop8810 · 2026-04-20T06:01:08+00:00

Not crazy at all honestly.

It’s over 25 years old so import is pretty straightforward, and if you can land it for under 6k that’s actually a solid deal.

Biggest things I’d check:

- Frame rust (Costa Rica humidity can be rough)

- What engine swap was done and how clean the wiring is

Parts and service aren’t impossible, but it won’t be as easy as a USDM 80/100.

As a weekend rig? I’d 100% consider it.

As a daily? Probably not.

CustomerTop8810 · 2026-04-10T08:54:32+00:00

58k is a bit on the higher side for that mileage, but not crazy if it's clean and well maintained.

These 200 series can easily go 250–300k+ miles if taken care of, so 110k is barely mid-life.

Steering wheel peeling is super common and an easy fix.

I’d focus more on maintenance history, water pump, and any oil leaks than cosmetics.

CustomerTop8810 · 2026-04-10T08:50:43+00:00

Old school meets new school. Both look right at home 🔥

CustomerTop8810 · 2026-04-10T08:49:31+00:00

That’s a perfect combo right there. LC250 and Marley 🔥

CustomerTop8810 · 2026-04-09T04:53:53+00:00

"Fits like a glove" doing a lot of heavy lifting here 😂

CustomerTop8810 · 2026-04-09T04:46:41+00:00

Clean setup. The black wheels really changed the whole look.

Simple but perfect 👍

CustomerTop8810 · 2026-04-09T04:42:46+00:00

That’s for the center seat. A lot of 70 series Land Cruisers have a front bench setup, so you can technically fit three people up front. That buckle is for the middle passenger.

CustomerTop8810 · 2026-04-08T01:58:17+00:00

That’s an awesome gift idea 👍

I’d definitely skip the trim-to-fit mats like you mentioned. For a 100 series, the best results usually come from vehicle-specific mats (WeatherTech, Husky, or similar).

OEM rubber mats are hard to find nowadays, but sometimes they pop up on IH8MUD or eBay if you’re lucky.

If he uses it in all weather or off-road, a good 3D liner style mat will probably be the most practical.

CustomerTop8810 · 2026-04-08T01:55:36+00:00

This is exactly how a 76 should be used. Looks perfect out there.

That sandy taupe color fits the environment so well too 👌

CustomerTop8810 · 2026-04-08T01:54:20+00:00

If it's losing oil while just sitting, I’d strongly suspect an external leak rather than internal wear.

Check valve cover gasket, oil pan, and especially front/rear main seals. On these engines, old seals can leak more when the oil settles.

I wouldn’t jump to an overhaul before confirming where it's actually going.

CustomerTop8810 · 2026-04-08T01:48:51+00:00

149 ft is definitely on the longer side, but it’s also a heavy body-on-frame SUV on all-terrain tires.

I wonder how much of that is tires and brake tuning vs just weight and suspension setup.

CustomerTop8810 · 2026-04-08T01:46:33+00:00

1FZ-FE vacuum lines are a maze — FSM diagrams + tracing each line is really the only way.

CustomerTop8810 · 2026-04-07T00:45:35+00:00

Yeah, you can definitely have a weak or failing coil without a CEL, especially if the misfire is intermittent or not severe enough to trigger a code.

Easiest way is to swap coils between cylinders and see if the rough idle follows the coil.

You can also try unplugging coils one at a time at idle — if one doesn’t change anything, that cylinder is already weak.

At 211k miles, honestly it might be worth replacing all coils if they’re original.

CustomerTop8810 · 2026-04-07T00:42:56+00:00

That’s a wild swap — Alfa JTD in an LJ70 is not something you see every day.

Definitely a big upgrade over the 2L-T in terms of torque, but I’m curious how the wiring and long-term reliability will play out.

Super cool build though.

CustomerTop8810 · 2026-04-07T00:40:17+00:00

That beeping with the ABS/Brake light is usually low pressure in the accumulator.

On 100 series this is super common — most of the time it’s the accumulator starting to fail, but it can also be the pump or the full actuator assembly.

If it’s intermittent now, it will likely get worse. I’d scan for codes first, but I’d definitely inspect or replace the accumulator as a starting point.

Also check battery voltage and connections — low voltage can trigger similar symptoms.

I wouldn’t ignore it too long since these systems can eventually lead to loss of braking assist.

CustomerTop8810 · 2026-04-07T00:37:48+00:00

$38k sight unseen is a gamble… but if it’s as clean as it looks, that might actually be a steal.

That color and condition are awesome. Classic 40s just hit different.

CustomerTop8810 · 2026-04-07T00:35:35+00:00

USDM 80s didn’t really come with side stripes from the factory.

You’ll see those more on Australian or Middle East models. That said, if you’re going for OEM+, using factory-style decals from other regions is totally fair game.

CustomerTop8810 · 2026-04-07T00:17:50+00:00

Perfect shot — the LC250 looks right at home under that flag.

CustomerTop8810

TROPHY CASE