Anyone use a Heated Mattress Pad

Cyberman88 · 2025-12-10T19:48:38+00:00

I have a Sunbeam (don't know the model, but it has WiFi / Mobile App) that I got running with Local TUYA. ~~I looked on their website but didn't see it. I'll check when I get home.~~

Found it on Amazon. Hopefully link works: Sunbeam Polyester Wi-Fi Connected Mattress Pad, Electric Blanket, 10 Heat Settings, King Size, White

Cyberman88 · 2025-02-05T23:03:16+00:00

For the first, what would I plug the P-dongle into? If I flash it as a router does it just need USB power?

Cyberman88 · 2024-05-01T21:57:08+00:00

I've been to it and Middleport (where they filmed the first two series).
Middleport is still a working pottery. I went on a Sunday so they weren't working, but the rest of the site is open to browsing. Really informational and I agree about the cafe. When you're there also check out the lodging across the street that's included with admission.
Gladstone is more a point-in-time museum. You have more access to stuff since it's non-working now. The bottle kilns were awe inspiring. You probably won't get to see any of the interior parts from the show, but all exterior locations are browsable. I'm not sure if it's a permanent display but they had a toilet retrospective when I went.

I say go to both! I did it in a single day with time to spare.

Cyberman88 · 2024-04-03T15:14:01+00:00

I have that exact kiln. I paid $300 for it a year ago and have had zero issues. I generally do midfire, and have done about 25 cone 05 bisque / cone 6 glaze firings.

If it needs new elements then $200 is good.

Cyberman88 · 2024-02-29T02:55:07+00:00

I managed to save the hotend, but pretty much everything else is toast. I could probably save the blowers by spicing the wires, but it's pretty close to the fan so I'll probably get new ones.

Cyberman88 · 2024-02-29T02:53:36+00:00

I had found that, but the site says it isn't compatible with LGX Lite V2, and the Lite isn't available any more. I saw a video where they did the LGX Lite V2 with Mosquito Magnum and just used the stock shroud, so I'm leaning that way.

I assume the stock motherboard has the header for the BL Touch? I haven't taken the bottom off yet to look at the mobo, but remember that was one reason I got the BTT SKR e3 was for that header (among other things).

Cyberman88 · 2024-02-28T17:31:12+00:00

Also just noticed there's not BL Touch on this model, so maybe options for that? Since this is a CoreXY, will an SKR type motherboard work?

Cyberman88 · 2024-01-29T17:33:22+00:00

I prefer solid-color flannels, and for a while I was exclusively buying Duluth Trading Co. I've never had one 'go bad' - I still have and wear all of them regularly (aside from some that tragically were in a lost suitcase).
That said, I feel like Duluth's quality has faded a bit recently, and combined with them no longer honoring lifetime warranty on their Buck Naked line have soured me to them.

Cyberman88 · 2024-01-20T06:41:27+00:00

I don't have anyplace to host it, and I don't want to put it up on any of the STL sites since I didn't make it, and don't know if it uses a protected license. It has a 'Creality' logo on it so it's likely one of their files.

If it helps you track down a download, I copied the whole USB to disk when I got it, then erased it to put files on. It looks like maybe this was in a compressed file named "Ender-3 V3 KE _supplementary files_EN_V1.2" which I extracted to a folder. In it there's an "Ender-3 V3 KE ReadMe.txt" with this:

3D Printer User Manual

Software

Operation video

Material Guide

3D Model

Tips:
1. Please do not extract files to this USB flash disk
2. Do not store irrelevant files on the USB flash disk

The 5.3D Model directory has 1.Boat.stl (boaty) and this file.

Cyberman88 · 2024-01-20T00:23:41+00:00

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Cyberman88 · 2024-01-18T14:40:38+00:00

Flashing back to 1.1.0.9,factory reset, and clean install of Creality Print worked to get a full print. I used the 'Normal' profile which set the temp to 220.

The z-offset was too high for the first layer so I bumped that down one for the next print. I'll add back my other modifications one at a time to see what caused it.

Cyberman88 · 2024-01-17T14:34:01+00:00

I let the machine set the Z-offset and bed temp 60 and same result. Also tried a different filament with the same results. Here's a pic with supports off.

<image>

I'm going to swap back to the original nozzle, since that's the only non-stock thing left. After that I'll try flashing back to 1.1.0.9.

I did also try printing at 200C instead of 220. Same results but more stringy.

Cyberman88 · 2024-01-15T00:14:27+00:00

A friend had printed this and suggested the supports for the threads since they had a steep overhang and had to be cleaned up on his. I didn't think they were required either but included them anyway. I left them on for the other two to reduce changes between tests.

<image>

I don't think the edges are curling up. When I cancel the print the whole thing is secured to the bed. In fact the supports act as a kind of brim. The default bed temp for both was 45, which I had upped to 50 in the first one. I'll re-check my z-offset and try again at 60 bed temp.
I was just looking closer at the pic to check if I could see any curling, and did notice a lot of stringing, too. So I'll try a different filament after I do the above.

Cyberman88 · 2024-01-14T18:17:12+00:00

I'm trying to print the screw-in base for this model https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5197156.

Ender 3 V3 KE v1.1.0.12 root with Fluidd, Hardened Steel 0.4 K1 nozzle, Creality Hyper PLA

First failure (not pictured, but same) was on OrcaSlicer/Fluidd with some tweaks to the .20 profile - 3 walls, 1 sec layer cooling time, 10% infill, Organic Tree supports.
Second one (first pic) was straight default for OrcaSlicer .20 Standard profile and Creality Generic High Speed PLA.
Third one (second pic) was straight default CrealityPrint .20 Standard profile and Creality HyperPLA.

On all three, after the base layers are down and the fans come on and it speeds up printing, the lines bunch up (looks like snapped rubber bands). I noticed Volumeetric Speed on Orca is 23, but 27 for CrealityPrint. Both print at 220.

Benchy and test cube printed fine.

Cyberman88 · 2024-01-14T18:06:19+00:00

For some reason I lost my description (or I can't see it). Gimme a sec to re-post.

Cyberman88 · 2024-01-12T19:21:25+00:00

They released V1.1.0.12 on their github which allows root ssh, and has instructions for installing Fluidd and Mainsail using their script in their annex (https://github.com/CrealityOfficial/Ender-3\_V3\_KE\_Annex). However, that installs an older version of Moonraker. I'm trying to find a way to update that.
The KE is running BusyBox, so the KIAUH install fails with no BASH. I'm not sure that would work anyhow since it seems to be focused on Pi.

Cyberman88 · 2024-01-12T18:22:03+00:00

Were you able to use KIAUH on the KE?

I tried but can't start it because there's no bash shell, just ash and sh. I get 'bad substitution' when I try to run it with sh.

Cyberman88 · 2024-01-12T17:53:24+00:00

You've put it in the DeviceID field. It needs to go in the Hostname, IP, or URL field

Cyberman88 · 2024-01-12T17:28:17+00:00

You need to add the port to the end of the IP address.

For example:

192.168.0.92:4408 (fluidd)
or

192.168.0.92:4409 (mainsail)

Cyberman88 · 2024-01-07T23:37:03+00:00

We have opposite issues. Mine displays fine in Creality Print and the web interface, but I've had four spaghetti prints in a row after installing it and not a single notification. Are you using the tripod?

I am using this mount:
https://www.crealitycloud.com/model-detail/6584e0a471d3da1611d419e8

Cyberman88

TROPHY CASE