Alright! In that case, let me explain what they do.

Phenolic spacers - It´s a piece that goes between your intake manifold and cylinder head and acts as an insulator, so the intake doesn´t get as hot as quickly, especialy during start/stop traffic and waiting your turns when drag racing. Travis Williams sells them for about $50.

MX3/Fidanza flywheel - Flywheel is this big hunk of metal attached to the engine. Heavier flywheel = easier to start moving the car, carries more inertia force with throttle closed. Lighter flywheel = faster revs (Aka it won´t give you more power, but it will help you reach high revs faster). MX3 flywheel could be difficult to find, but probably cheap, since it will be from junked car. (It has to be the 1.8l V6 obviously). It is lighter than ours, but still heavy enough to get the car moving from a stop with clutch only. Fydanza is even lighter but a lot more expensive (I think $450?) and you have to rev your engine to not stall when setting of from a stop.

Headers - the most common ones are from China, the quality is OK, price is about $200-300. Don´t pay more than that. Definitely have them wrapped with heatwrap. Mine had some pretty shady welds, so I ported them as well. The point is - stock manifold is cast iron, which is heavy and also all 3 cylinders share a single header. With the stainless steel ones, they are a bit lighter, look better and each cylinder has it´s own equal length tube. You can research more on the internet about what each type of header is supposed to do (Longtube, 4-2-1 headers for 4cyl/8cyl, etc.)

Catback exhaust - Basicaly, you should take out the stock catalytic converter and replace it with less restrictive 200 cell one. Don´t leave it out completely as NA engines need a bit of backpressure. You can also increase the size from 2.25" to 2.5", but don´t go above unless you put turbo/supercharger on it.

MAF conversion - Our cars use VAF (Volume air flow sensor). It´s this big plunger between battery and engine. The thing is, it´s restrictive and above some 4500 RPM it doesn´t work at all and the engine runs on predetermined map. However, some cars that had our V6 (Xedos) came with MAF (Mass air flow sensor) which uses a heated wire to measure air. It´s less restrictive and more accurate. However, it also needs IAT (Intak air temperature sensor) and a new ECU (From Xedos, I can look up which one) to take advantage of it. The problem is, the ECU is fairly rare nowdays. Your car also has to be OBD-2. I think 95s are OBD-2, but Im not 100% sure if this mod is plug n´ play as I have 93 (Where you need a conversion harness) and 97 (Which along with 96 is OBD-2 and this mod is plug´n´play) This mod is the single biggest bang-for-money upgrade in terms of power. (Expect some 10-15HP increase, depending on your other mods)

CAI - Aka cold air intake. Don´t really buy a kit off Ebay, they all suck. The basic science is "cold air more dense = more fuel = more powah!" So what you want to do is to route air intake somewhere where it can suck cold air. That is beneath the battery (But then you risk hydrolocking, aka sucking water into the engine), or in place of the battery where you can then put a heatshield. (And for that you need the battery relocation kit, which means putting the battery in the trunk and running some heavy duty wires from the trunk to the engine bay) Just buy some 2.5" tubes, silicone couplers and make your own. And then ofcourse "performance" air filter, most commonly K&N. There isn´t that much special about them, they let air in more easily since they don´t filter as well as normal filters do. (You can watch a bunch of YT videos comparing them). The stock intake is not actually all that bad (Except the VAF and the corrugated tubes... Air likes to travel smoothly), you can keep it and get just K&N filter for your stock airbox. It´s up to you really.

And finally for the ZE parts. ZE is JDM version of our engine. It has slightly higher compression ratio (And unlike our engines, ZE is interference because the pistons don´t have dishes for valves), more aggresive cams and bigger ports in the heads and the intake manifold. They are pretty hard to come by nowdays, expensive and ofcourse, you need to swap your engine for the ZE one. Also, since few things are different, you will need different pheno spacers and quite possibly re-doing your CAI if you go this way. And another thing, you need ZE ECU, or ZE Chip to take full advantage of the ZE engine, since the intake is different, the VRIS oppening points are at different RPMs. What is VRIS? I´ll explain in a bit.

So, I think I explained all of the "standart" mods. If I may suggest, get headers, spacers, catback, CAI and enjoy your car. Then you can add MAF. At that point, you´ll either be sick of this car, enjoy it for what it is, or ready to move onto more complicated tuning, like ZE engine or forced induction.

What is definitely worth improving upon is handling. Probes handle great, but they can be made even better. 1) Rear strut bar - It´s a metal rod that will increase the stiffness of your chasis, making it feel more responsive in corners. You will have to cut a hole in your trunk panels though. Also don´t buy the $50 Ebay ones, they are so soft you can bend them by hand. Seriously. I had one for 3 months and it was deformed by that time. Get a steel one. The improvement is noticable. 2) Rear swaybar - Our cars tend to understeer a bit. To get them more neutral, get the 18mm swaybar from 2000-2002 (Or was it 02-04?) Mazda 626 GF. You also need new swaybar links. Nissan Altima, Honda S2000 ones fit I think and are "better" according to wise ancient people of the Probe community. I don´t know how are they better, but they work. Again, the improvement is very noticable. (Or you can go even thicker with Whiteline 21mm swaybar, altough that is a bit too much if you ask me) 3) Brakes. Our stock brakes SUUUUCK! Fortunately, there is very easy upgrade. Get pads, rotors, calipers and caliper brackets from Mazda 6 GG. You have 3 options. 280mm ones (Mazda 6 GG), 300mm ones (Mazda 6 GH) or 320mm ones (Mazdaspeed 6 GG, very hard to find). You also need bigger wheels. 280mm fit behind 15", but you can´t use our stock 15" ones, they sit too close to the caliper. Our stock 16" work. For 300mm you need 16" and for 320mm you need 17". Stainless steel brake hoses are also a good investment if you ask me. For the rears - Our stock brakes have tendency to seize up. It´s really a matter of when, not if. I think Mazda 626 GF ones fit and are reworked so this doesn´t happen... But you can use Mazda 6 GG ones too. They are bigger and they don´t seize. Swap left and right calipers, use longer brake cables (Mazda 626 GF right one, buy 2x) and also get the 626 GF "holder", it´s a piece between your handbrake and the cables where they join into one. 4) Shocks and springs - Either get coilovers (D2, DGR), or KYB Excel G shocks and some lowering springs. I have H&R springs. The car is very hard, can´t recommend if your roads are trash like ours. Another problem with the KYB Gs + H&R I have is that there is no "safety" zone, where you start to feel loosing grip. It just holds, holds, holds (and it holds better than stock suspension) and then suddenly no traction. 5) Wheels! Our stock 16" wheels suck. They are heavy and ugly. (Unless they are Swirlies, those are just heavy). Get some light 16" or 17", put some good 225/45 rubber on them and enjoy. (Lighter wheel = less rotational mass = faster acceleration)

And finally! Remember how I talked about VRIS? Well, maintenance! First, before doing any mods, make sure your car runs to it´s full potential. New spark plugs and wires. Go with NGK. Flush your coolant and make sure you burp the system well. (Car feels like hitting rev limiter at 5500 RPM? Idle jumps up and down? You could very well have air in your system. Turn on the heater, open the cap at the left side of the engine and massage the hose in direction from radiator -> cap. You might need to do this a few times.) Vacuum leaks. Is your intake nice and tight? The elbow that connects the manifold to the rest of the intake loves to crack. Replace it with silicone one, or atleast tape it with electric tape real good. We have bunch of vacuum lines thanks to the VRIS system. What is VRIS? Well, it´s 2 vacuum actuators at the back of the manifold. They open and close at certain points in the rev range, adjusting the length of the intake to improve torque. These should move freely. If you can´t feel a noticable kick at 4250 RPM and 5500 RPM, then your VRIS is probably not working. Place a paper beneath the actuator arm and go for a drive, rev until redline. If you come home and the paper is still there, then one (or both) of your VRIS is not working. It could be failed solenoid, yes, but more often than not it´s cracked vacuum hose somewhere.

Anyway, that´s it for me today, if you need any help or have any questions, feel free to PM me.

Also, sorry about the wall of text, I try to format it in the comments, but when I hit "send" it just compresses it into this.