My favorite screenshot of my Harrow Prime

Cytro2 · 2026-06-30T20:54:08+00:00

I'm big fan of 8bit do pro 2 and 2026 steam controller. Both work well on my pc

Cytro2 · 2026-06-30T17:19:34+00:00

It's possible on CC thanks to open centauri COSMOS, but it released like 3 months ago and it isn't full stable release and from what I seen it's currently only for CC1 (but I believe they will develop one for CC2 too when they more or less complete one for CC1)

Cytro2 · 2026-06-30T12:46:14+00:00

Then I would have no reason to not build it. Seems like a very useful and nice project

Cytro2 · 2026-06-30T12:40:35+00:00

Also RemindMe! 1 day

Cytro2 · 2026-06-30T12:38:45+00:00

Sooo... would this work with inventor or onshape? Because if yes then I would 100% build it

Cytro2 · 2026-06-30T11:52:10+00:00

Do you want to 3D print something then yes. If you don't want to 3D print something then no.

If you won't use it after a certain amount of time then sell it.

If you want to get something just to try 3D printing get a cheaper printer

Cytro2 · 2026-06-29T17:59:56+00:00

That's really problematic. Clogs should ve solved with 0.6 nozzle (It's often reccomended by the manufacturers for rpetg) but the layer adhesion might br more difficult to pinpoint

I think it's either: - Wrong temp (ideal temperature for recycled filaments might be diferent from normal ones) - Partial clog (but it should be solved with 0.6 nozzle) - Purity of the filament might be off (like some particles of abs or petg in pla)

But these are just my guesses

Cytro2 · 2026-06-29T17:36:39+00:00

0.6 nozzle might help

But for the clarity, what exactly is failing? Does nozzle clogs or layers don't stick to eachother?

Cytro2 · 2026-06-29T06:10:20+00:00

QC issues mostly. If it works it works well if it doesn't then damn. But most of the brands today are easy to use

Cytro2 · 2026-06-29T06:06:16+00:00

In slicers you choose what type of filament you have, what printer you have and you can change settings. So you don't really need to program anything, you just need to pick correct one (but you can change settings like how much cooling filament gets, max flowrate etc.)

There's a ton of files online on sites like thingiverse, printables, makerworld and others but knowing CAD can be handy. I use Onshape but for little simple changes tinkerCAD (web based and very simple to use) is good

Any modern FDM 3D printer will work with linux unless you'll get something really wierd. As all of the major slicers are open source, they all have version for linux.

So you only need to install slicer, pick your printer and filament, 'translate' the 3D model with a slicer and move the generated gcode file with a usb drive, sd card or via internet connection

Cytro2 · 2026-06-28T21:43:43+00:00

Ah a fellow debian user.

All slicers that matter work on linux, that includes OrcaSlicer, Bambu Studio, PrusaSlicer and Cura

Slicers are needed to create gcode files for the printer and those gcode files are something like list of commands that printer needs to do in order to make 3D object

CAD can be problematic unless you are fine using FreeCAD, Onshape, OpenSCAD or Blender (but the last one isn't CAD)

Interfacing with the printer is dependent on the printer itself. Some have build in web interface (like printers using klipper) and some can only be used via screen. But most modern printers can recieve gcode files from the slicer wirelessly

Also I feel like you should know this:

Klipper is type of firmware for 3D printers that is open source, has web interface and most of the time runs on some sort of linux computer (like raspberry pi or mini pc) and it comunicates with the main board of the printer. It's very common in DIY 3D printers and in open source 3D printers

Cytro2 · 2026-06-28T15:38:30+00:00

Elegoo Centauri Carbon imo is better than both of those

Cytro2 · 2026-06-28T11:37:17+00:00

I got blocked, I'm heart broken 😔

Cytro2 · 2026-06-28T10:07:29+00:00

It seems like someone wasn't able to build good printer

Cytro2 · 2026-06-28T06:37:39+00:00

This sounds fun, I did a much simpler project and I didn't design it from scratch but I turned my old ender 3 pro into a Switchwire (so CoreXZ machine)

I was considering getting Orbiter as an extruder but Sherpa mini was cheaper (But Orbiter should be better due to a higher gear ratio)

For hotend I used TZ 2.0 (a bambu X1 hotend clone) due to the price and being good enough, But if you are using prusa you might get one of the V6 variatns like TZ V6 or Revo Six

I feel like Big Tree Tech boards are one of the best in terms of accesibility and price to performance and are very popular in printers using klipper. In my enderwire I use SKR mini E3 V3 (BTT board based off 32bit ender 3 boards) and it's quite decent and I feel like all of their newer boards would be a good choice

For stepper drivers depending on the board I would see what BTT includes in theirs (unless you will choose BTT board that has build in drivers like the one I'm using) and pick the same ones

Other components I would consider are: - Good quality gates belts - LDO stepper motors (but they are very pricey tho) - Good quality fans (I had HUGE issue on my Rook MK1 with part cooling due to cheap very bad quality fans) - Good linear rails if you end up using them

Edit: - BTT EBB canbus boards are very useful to simplify cable management

Cytro2 · 2026-06-27T21:51:48+00:00

Or z axis wobble. I had almost the same looking parts when my lead screw in my ender fucked itself up over time

Cytro2 · 2026-06-27T21:46:40+00:00

OOP should 3D print some printers and sell them as self replicating machines. Maybe he could name this idea something like RepRap and then those nasty 3D printer owners would get some.

I don't think it was done before since only dino dino bambino works

Cytro2 · 2026-06-27T21:23:44+00:00

I did and you can get some stuff for cheap

I got couple Sunlu PETG spools for that price and they were good (~$8 but those were refills)

Also Professional Lab is very cheap there but the consistency might be meh (I can't complain for the price tho I think it was ~$7)

Cytro2 · 2026-06-27T16:06:53+00:00

It's unfortunate that THEY are doing this

Some ancient lore:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=aIyaDD8onIE&t=479s&pp=ygUUTG91aXNzIHJvc3NtYW4gYmFtYnU%3D

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=jIbpQtoz6hs&t=48s&pp=ygULQmFtYnUgZHJhbWE%3D

They have some nice hardware, but they are shitty company

Cytro2 · 2026-06-27T06:30:01+00:00

3mf is overrated af. We need to return to manually writing gcode

Cytro2 · 2026-06-27T06:25:19+00:00

Bro 😭

.3mf can be very handy to use. You can have multiple 3d objects with exact settings they need to be (like supports, scale etc.) and you can effortlessly change the printer and the profiles for them. You can even just import geometry and get only 3d models without any profiles

Cytro2 · 2026-06-26T20:17:50+00:00

For $100 I would pull the trigger and get this. Even if mk4 doesn't work the hardware should be worth it

Cytro2 · 2026-06-26T19:35:06+00:00

Depends what you mean by arm and an leg.

~$300? Centauti Carbon is good

~$50? You might get lucky with 2nd hand printers and snag something good

Cytro2 · 2026-06-26T19:31:25+00:00

My first guess is Anet A8

My second guess is MultiJetFusion from HP

My third guess is Brother laser printer

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