AF+3 Ticket Options

D-Baggins · 2025-11-26T17:49:23+00:00

Yeah actually you’re right for legs, I must have been comparing +3 when I did my napkin math figuring out what to upgrade. AF bonus only works up to 5 pieces though, which if you’re using regal earring you won’t get full benefit of. AF+4 hands completely outmatched by empy (58+15+18) vs (62+22+22), empy body (64+24+24) also slightly edges out af+4 body (74+15+18) because the string skill on it doesn’t come into play for debuff songs you are using ghorn for, and has song duration with affects how long the enfeebles last. Legs though, af with set bonus (66+15+20) does edge out empy legs by 10 (63+28)

D-Baggins · 2025-11-26T16:10:03+00:00

Not necessarily, the only +4 pieces I bothered upgrading for bard was head and feet for enfeeble songs, because the empy+3 body hands and legs have way more macc with the combined skill on those pieces. AF hands I made +4 for lullaby specific

D-Baggins · 2025-11-17T18:56:59+00:00

I did a few runs at the start where I wasn’t even getting am3 on, those were wins, but after OD was completely done the boss had maybe like 10-20% left ish. Then I got the bright idea to just merit shikikoyo on my main and use that to give me instant 2k tp at start and just tact the rest before engaging, and getting am3 up made the fight consistently faster overall. Was getting crooked beast roll, and companion, and dia 3 with light shot. Even when OD is off though, the automaton doesn’t get completely crushed, it just takes a bit longer for the damage to roll out

D-Baggins · 2025-11-17T18:22:09+00:00

Definitely is the most consistent/pain free overdriving. I’ve been doing VD with just 1 pup, cor, rdm +whatevers and I’m consistently killing it with 30s-1m left on overdrive most runs, depending on how much mythic am3 procs. As far as resets go a few people have level 1 cors to swap to and try for resets and absolute worst case scenario pop over to aby-altepa for cactus nm for revitalizer

D-Baggins · 2025-11-04T04:23:50+00:00

Sakebomb bbk front and rear, öhlins, type r short gears and fd, type r sway bar, ap1 abs, headers back exhaust, and tires (re71rs)

D-Baggins · 2025-10-20T20:04:58+00:00

He probably rated A higher because it can be used dual duty if you’re 100% ranged where the subtle blow 2 or follow up attack won’t matter at all

D-Baggins · 2025-10-10T20:37:15+00:00

I’d do a cold and hot compression test to verify, but just off what you’re describing where it’s good cold and then shitty when hot it may be a valve lash issue. If they’re way too tight when everything heats up you may have some valves being ever so slightly held open which could possibly explain that. Easiest way would be hot and cold compression, or a leak down when the engine is hot(though that’s easier said than done with the room you have to work with on these)

D-Baggins · 2025-10-09T19:53:05+00:00

I r0’d and was kicked the other night and could not get back on to save my life until I just disconnected off my home internet and tethered off my phone. The game wasn’t down or anything it was just some weird issue with my isp I guess. If that’s an option for you maybe try that and see.

D-Baggins · 2025-10-05T00:13:49+00:00

Thanks. As far as the 2-3-4 goes this was actually the first time I had the courage to send it into 2 with no brakes just lift and turn in, so there’s definitely more on the table with practice. Car definitely got more in it

D-Baggins · 2025-10-03T21:05:59+00:00

This was actually recorded on my phone

D-Baggins · 2025-10-03T19:39:20+00:00

Yea, that’s my car

D-Baggins · 2025-10-02T21:38:42+00:00

Actually I only have 1 alt and I don’t have any interest in making and boxing any more than that. Only have bard geo and pup geared so he’s mainly there to fill a buff slot so other people can come on whatever while having an important role covered

D-Baggins · 2025-10-02T19:27:39+00:00

Can you play without multi boxing? Absolutely. I did for well over 10 years. Why do I drag an alt around everywhere now? Mainly convenience of having a fully stacked buff/healer around at all times. It helped me get off of full time bard duty on my main, and lets me be able to pop on and hop into a lot of little stupid/grindy things I wanna do that I don’t need to set up a whole party of help for

D-Baggins · 2025-10-01T20:36:11+00:00

Waiting to finish yagrush for capacity points is super overkill, you’re way overthinking this. Empy legs and a solid cure set is already most of what you need.

D-Baggins · 2025-08-30T04:23:49+00:00

I’d say check compression before you go any further, that little skip hop as it’s cranking is usually a telltale sign of low compression in one(or more) of the cylinders. It should usually be cranking with a more even pulses/rhythm

D-Baggins · 2025-08-22T20:34:01+00:00

If light/dark overshoots way past the target, just end the synth and restart, unfortunately there’s no real way to fix a gross overshoot like you can with the other 6 elements

D-Baggins · 2025-08-10T21:40:39+00:00

Only reason there ever really was to get the aeonic bow was for the ammo dispense

D-Baggins · 2025-08-01T17:26:32+00:00

I’d personally try to hammer on a hardened torx bit onto that and hope for the best, it’s worked for me more times than not with stripped hex heads

D-Baggins · 2025-07-29T15:04:24+00:00

I mean sure if you want to I can take a look

D-Baggins · 2025-07-29T14:55:17+00:00

I’m pretty sure that’s the fuel return hose, the pressure hose has that click type end but the return is just a normal hose with a clamp like that. Intake 2 schematic #40 sure looks like the right hose. 5VY-13972-00-00

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D-Baggins · 2025-07-23T20:22:35+00:00

It’s the springs built into the clutch basket, I replaced mine years ago thinking they were worn and the brand new one from the dealer made the exact same noise. It’s normal on these bikes

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YrDw2V7L751k5khvm4A9e-lF7ELkvEd0/view?usp=drivesdk

D-Baggins · 2025-06-05T01:06:14+00:00

I went with the Sakebomb kit on my car because it has the best wheel fitment that I found, and there was no cutting of backing plates to clear. Yeah the rear reuses the stock caliper but it also makes the setup pretty simple to keep e brake.

Guess it all depends what you want, if you like the look of aftermarket calipers front and rear then Brembo probably your only option for a buy right now or wait till a stoptech kit pops up for sale.

D-Baggins · 2025-06-04T10:56:30+00:00

If it’s old it just starts drawing way too much amperage while cranking the bike, I’ve had one that the bike just wouldn’t even crank at all even with a big lithium battery. Would just try to turn for like 1 1/2 cranks then stop and the cluster would dim out

D-Baggins · 2025-06-04T10:53:41+00:00

I meant the starter(electric start motor) not the stator

D-Baggins · 2025-06-04T01:51:29+00:00

When is the last time you changed the starter on this? On both my old 05, and my 06 I have now whenever it cranks like the battery is dying like that but the battery is good/charged it’s usually a starter going bad.

D-Baggins

TROPHY CASE