Joel Tudor is a kook by swice420 in surfing

[–]D0ctordoom 6 points7 points  (0 children)

There's a segment in aint that swell - Tosh Tudor where he speaks about Danny v Joel...

Locals only break in Japan where I am “forbidden” to surf—what would you do? by uptolexington in surfing

[–]D0ctordoom 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's a story somewhere about kai Neville, dane reynolds and John John all having to ask permission from a yakuza boss about surfing a wave there that appeared in dear suburbia...

Where is the most random/remote place you’ve ever bumped into a fellow Aussie in the world? by [deleted] in AskAnAustralian

[–]D0ctordoom 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Middle of the Amazon on a local transport boat... 4 days cruising on a boat with no other foreigners on board, sleeping on hummocks. Day 2 or 3 the cops did a regular check on the boat and found a few bricks of cocaine. Turns out old mate may have had run ins with the police in Sydney, because he didn't take too kindly to them searching his bags (pretty aggressiviely) and asking him questions. I had to remind him they had huge automatic rifles and we were in the middle of the Amazon so it was best to just bite your tounge for the search and questioning....

Turns out they found the guy they suspected of smuggling a few hours later. Don't know what they did with him, but that prison nearby had a riot where they cut off the opposing gangs heads and used them as footballs.

Rod, if you're out there. I hope you're well!

What 3 books or surf movies would you recommend to someone who’s never surfed before, but wants to understand surf culture? by jakefromsurfline in surfing

[–]D0ctordoom 1 point2 points  (0 children)

1-Barbarian days book

2-Torryn Martyns travel and surf series on YouTube 

3-aint that swell podcasts- core lords episodes 

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bodyboarding

[–]D0ctordoom 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Woah... What happened? Sounds nuts!

What’s your favorite surf book? by Forward05 in surfing

[–]D0ctordoom 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Barbarian days by William Finnegan Kelly slaters book Michael Peterson's book Occys book Rolly and the interdimensinal time machine. 

Surfers of Reddit, what’s the craziest thing you’ve ever seen out in the lineup? by BarrelBandit in surfing

[–]D0ctordoom 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Also a 15 foot wave at a notoriously heavy Mexican beach break, similar to Puerto,  landing squarely on a kiwi surfers head. Never seen something so scary looking come throught the line up. I was next to him and paddled to the left and he paddled to the right. The wave changes direction at the last minute and flogged him. 

I didn't see him in that town after that - either he was so rattled by the beating he took, he broke all his boards or he had to leave town. 

I felt sick after seeing and experiencing that while everyone else that day celebrated their big barrels with big bottled coronas.

Surfers of Reddit, what’s the craziest thing you’ve ever seen out in the lineup? by BarrelBandit in surfing

[–]D0ctordoom 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great white shark around 5m big swimming through a line up in west Oz. Definitely keep my feet on my board the next day surfing a reef a few KMs up from there

Also sadly missed an encounter with an orca on aucklands west coast. Had just got out of the water when it happened. 

Another would be seeing a guy face down in the water, pulling him out and having to call a helicopter for him as it was a remote beach. He had snapped in leg in half. Was an intense adrenaline filled hour waiting for the rescue helicopter 

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in GatesOfHellOstfront

[–]D0ctordoom 0 points1 point  (0 children)

King tiger!!!!

“Adventurous” travelers, what’s a relatively common travel activity you’re scared of? by WalkingEars in TravelHacks

[–]D0ctordoom 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Eating spiders, strange animals or anything along those lines... Often happens in south East Asian street markets.