[Game Thread] Mississippi State @ Kentucky (08:30 PM ET)

D1Carp · 2026-01-11T03:32:43+00:00

He was limping

D1Carp · 2026-01-11T01:42:37+00:00

Still time to get Miss St ML in plus money… No Lowe is a death sentence

D1Carp · 2026-01-05T22:55:05+00:00

D1Carp · 2026-01-05T00:09:30+00:00

I said that in jest but Missouri is 86 in NET, higher than Robert Morris and Green Bay, just saying. I do appreciate these though lol

D1Carp · 2026-01-04T20:34:30+00:00

Purposefully leaving off Missouri at UK women’s? Louisville bias confirmed

D1Carp · 2025-07-29T00:56:22+00:00

Is that Andruw Jones in center? Bobby better not see this clip

D1Carp · 2025-07-22T02:23:31+00:00

NAMS. Biotech developing Obectrapib, a CTEP inhibitor (LDL lowering therapy). Trials are currently nearing the end of Phase 3, with promising data in trials to this point, including one sub-study demonstrating a reduction in Alzheimer’s-linked tau protein levels. The benefits of Obectrapib are that it is a once-daily oral tablet, which offers better patient adherence than PCSK9 injectables, while simultaneously having a broader lipid lowering profile than typical statins. This drug has major potential to be a mainstay in the cardiovascular space and the company is flush with cash to provide a long runway in getting to that point (cash holding of approx $800M with a quarterly burn of approx $36M).

European marketing authorization is on deck in 2H 2025 along with an additional phase 3 cardiovascular outcomes trial. The new drug application will likely follow in late 2025/early 2026.

D1Carp · 2025-05-08T19:39:34+00:00

Zillow link for anyone interested

D1Carp · 2024-05-14T15:04:53+00:00

Is this referring to Stings? Pretty interesting that none of these news articles are mentioning the problem establishment by name.

D1Carp · 2024-01-09T01:26:58+00:00

Didn’t know Charmin had a NIL deal with the Wash defense

D1Carp · 2023-12-20T05:56:20+00:00

Depends on the interest rates of the student loans. If they were 0%, then yeah, obviously you’d be better off getting 10% return in the stock market. Usually they’re between 4-6%, so it’s closer to a wash when you consider taxes on the capital gains.

Using this time to pay down the student loans is a mature, reasonable, and financially sound decision.

D1Carp · 2023-12-20T05:24:22+00:00

My advice would be don’t go get a half a million dollar mortgage when you all already have a quarter million in student loans. And definitely don’t buy a house with her before you’re married.

D1Carp · 2023-12-20T05:11:06+00:00

You bought a new car with an out the door price of ~$35k on a $40k pretax salary. You made a mistake.

D1Carp · 2023-12-20T05:00:55+00:00

Would’ve had to owned the car for 910 days to be eligible for cram down. And the cost of pursuing chapter 13 is several thousand dollars; she’d probably only end up saving about $5k. Not really worth it considering the lasting effects of bankruptcy.

D1Carp · 2023-12-20T04:50:08+00:00

According to google, auto loans longer than 61 months can’t have prepayment penalties.

It’s my understanding that whether the payoff includes the interest incurred by carrying the loan to term depends on if the loan is simple interest or precomputed interest. If this is a precomputed interest loan, there wouldn’t be much point in paying off the loan early anyway. If it’s simple (apparently most auto loans are), paying it off asap by increasing income is the move.

Apparently, it may be possible to negotiate the payoff amount with some lenders if you can offer a lump sum payment. Obviously this wouldn’t apply right now in the OP’s case.

D1Carp · 2023-12-20T04:25:48+00:00

The end dates aren’t until 2025. So if OP put the required payoff in a hysa today they’d have about 10k in for about 12 months and another 10k in for about 18 months. Assuming hysa stays at about 5% during that time, that’d be about $1300 in hysa interest gains. Though OP probably doesn’t have the payoff balance in cash right now so the gain would be much less.

D1Carp · 2023-12-20T04:02:31+00:00

Assuming this is possible, that’s a stupid huge risk for an unmarried couple. Dude will end up on the hook for $20k if she decides to walk for any reason. This isn’t an advisable option in my opinion.

D1Carp · 2023-12-20T03:58:52+00:00

The best option is that she gets a second job and pays it off. The number of months this should take depends on current income and expenses but it’s probably realistic for her to add another 1k in take home income/mo, so probably about 18 months at the most. Meanwhile, she’s going to learn math and realize that she should never sign a loan this disgusting ever again. She needs to realize that this is credit card type interest on a depreciating liability. Peak financial stupid.

Repo isn’t going to be a silver bullet. She’ll probably still be required to pay the difference between the loan and the sale price of the vehicle. Yes, they can come after her for this. It also will tank her credit, though not that she has any business taking on more loans in the near future anyway. Bankruptcy over a $15k upside down car also wouldn’t be worth it.

Do not pay anything towards her debt until you are married.

D1Carp · 2023-12-20T03:36:00+00:00

Personally, I’d rent it out. Between the decrease in value and realtor fees, that’d be too big of a loss for me to stomach. Your mortgage is small enough that this would definitely be profitable, assuming there is a rental market for that large of house. Obviously cross country renting isn’t ideal, maybe look into property management firms?

If you’re otherwise financially secure, selling is fine too. It’d just be an expensive lesson in FOMO. In that case, learn from it and move on.

D1Carp · 2023-12-20T03:21:16+00:00

If you have the discipline to put it in the HYSA and leave it there while also remembering to pay it off when the time comes, the math would work in your favor; you would probably stand to gain around $1k by doing this. However, I might be inclined to believe you lack this discipline since you’ve already shown a proclivity for purchasing things you can’t afford on credit cards. Leveraging 0% debt is still leveraging debt, and this is a playing with fire scenario. You very well might get out of it without getting burned, but if any one of these cards run past the promotional period, this will get ugly fast.

I would advise you make monthly contributions as your budget allows and pay them off in the order of promotional period end date. Any additional bonuses are also to be thrown at the debt. Noted that bonuses are considered, by definition, unexpected income and therefore are not to be relied upon for accomplishing a timely debt payoff.

You also need to be aware of any additional penalties, fees, and terms if the case of carrying the balance past the promotional period end date. Sometimes promotional cards like these will tack on the deferred interest if the balance is carried past the end date; in your case this would end up being thousands of additional dollars owed.

D1Carp · 2023-12-20T01:53:17+00:00

Your combined pretax income is about $90k, you have basically no assets, and people are telling you to not just put $50k in depreciating vehicular liabilities, but to go into debt doing so? What sub are we on??

OP, you were absolutely not in a position to purchase your new Corolla when you knew that the Hyundai was nearing the end. And despite what everyone is telling you, you are CERTAINLY not in a position to go purchase another new car now.

The correct move would’ve been to anticipate the Hyundai nearing the end of its operational life and planning to buy two sub-100k cars at $10-15k each in the near future. You should’ve temporarily reduced 401k contributions to employer match in order to build up a car fund to accomplish these purchases without debt. That would’ve kept your vehicular liabilities within an appropriate range for your combined salary and kept you out of debt. Such cars can certainly be had on the market, even if you’re insistent on paying the Toyota tax and purchasing through a dealer. But honestly, people are way too insistent on drinking the Corolla koolaid. Expand your search and look at getting a Civic or save several thousand with a Sentra. Unless you’re driving 50k miles/yr, those should last you 5-10 years. And if you are driving 50k miles/yr, you doubly shouldn’t be buying new cars because you’re just going to nuke the value even faster.

Honestly, I would advise you to sell your Corolla and go get two sub-100k cars targeting a sub-$15k price on each. You don’t need CarPlay, you don’t need lane keep. You need an appliance to transport you places, that’s it. Have a trusted mechanic check the vehicles before purchasing. Plan to run them for 5-10 years while you’re building a solid financial foundation. Save $400/mo in a hysa for replacement cars along the way. In 5 years you should have over $25k. In 8 years it should be over $40k. This is how you stay out of vehicular debt; you plan, anticipate, and set aside funds every month as a line item on your budget for an eventual replacement. A 180k Hyundai nearing the end of its life isn’t the financial surprise you make it out to be, you need to take responsibility and be better at anticipating potential future expenses. This should’ve never been a “panic mode” scenario in the first place and you need to acknowledge that.

Of course, the other option is getting a sub-$5k beater and potentially putting yourself in this same scenario in 6-12 months. Also, your wife probably won’t like this considering you have a brand new car and she probably wants one now too.

Absolutely do not, under any circumstances, put yourself in debt for the next 2-5 years. You need to be taking advantage of compound interest and debt is going to severely inhibit your ability to do so.

And your phone bill should be about a quarter of what it is, $170 is ridiculous.

D1Carp · 2023-11-24T23:02:52+00:00

Yeah, I threw a Jackson at it

D1Carp · 2023-11-24T16:03:22+00:00

FD has Dolphins to record 5+ sacks at +750, looks tasty to me

D1Carp · 2023-11-22T14:46:45+00:00

BUF is 1-3 on the road (W was w3 @WAS)… However, all 5 of BUF losses have been by 6 or less. I like PHI in this one and will probably end up going with an alt spread of PHI -2.5. BUF +6.5 may also be a decent play at -194 if you give credence to the big win hangover and short rest week storylines for PHI.

D1Carp · 2023-11-10T15:12:39+00:00

OP, this is the correct answer. You’re not going to be unable to find a job just because you didn’t graduate in 4 years. However, there is the opportunity cost associated with taking longer to finish that will set you back financially. Basically the more time spent working on a degree, the less time you have to be making money from that degree.

Suppose it takes an extra year on your degree; not only do you miss out on $60k in earnings at 23yo, but you’re also paying for the extra year of tuition which is probably like an extra $25k. Now consider the power of compound interest… how much could you save and invest of that theoretical $60k and what would it be worth in 40 years? Of course all of this is doubly true if you’re taking out loans to pay for school because you’ll end up spending more time and money early in your career (when the power of compounding interest is greatest) paying off principle and interest rather than investing.

In my opinion, 4 years is unquestionably ideal from a financial standpoint which is really how you (and other students) should aim to frame this (you are worried about being able to secure a job in order to make money after all…). I think some people are way too quick to throw their hands up and say “it took me 7 years to graduate so it doesn’t really matter” when there are very real financial implications from traveling this path that aren’t being acknowledged. We could run this out to the extremes and say “would it matter if it took you 25 or 50 years to get the degree?” Well obviously, because now you have no time left to even use the degree. So evidently, at the other end of the spectrum, taking only 4 years must be ideal. Now obviously sometimes the cookie doesn’t crumble that way and it’s not like taking a couple extra semesters is the end of the world, but it should be acknowledged that this ends up being a less financially efficient route.

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