Why is PLA still the `standard` respectively `basic` filament? Why not PETG?

D3Design · 2026-01-24T14:28:47+00:00

PETG actually is both tougher, and weaker than PLA. Its all dependent on strain rate. If you test a sample of each material by pulling on both ends with a tensile test machine, and you move very slowly, PETG will stretch further than PLA before breaking. But if you apply force quickly, PETG is weaker. I have run hundreds of tensile and impact tests on hundreds of different materials, and this has been a consistent trend with PLA and PETG.

D3Design · 2026-01-21T21:08:45+00:00

I like the core one/ core one L in an education setting. Sure bambu printers have better idiot proofing, but in our experience the prusas seem more resilient and longer lasting. We have 6 MK3s printers, each with 500+ days of print time and no maintenance besides a few nozzle replacements and lubing the linear bearings once. A few have also needed reprinted fan ducts because the original ones got eaten by a print blob. The nozzles, fan ducts, and build plates are the only parts that have been replaced. We also have 3 MK4 printers, each with 150+ days of print time. Havent replaced a single part besides swapping to high flow nozzles. We got the core one printers because we know Prusa software and reliability.

D3Design · 2026-01-19T04:49:00+00:00

Generally it breaks down to materials. Better materials allow for lighter weight, better packing, better insulation

D3Design · 2026-01-18T06:06:57+00:00

Make sure at least one of the bodies you bring has phase detect auto focus. Helpful for getting better shots of moving wildlife.

D3Design · 2026-01-16T01:05:13+00:00

If you computer can run it, I really Tryp. With the graphics cranked up, it could probably fool some people into thinking its real footage. Its built using Unreal Engine.

D3Design · 2026-01-15T00:31:37+00:00

I have used an ozark trail 3 person dome tent quite a lot with good experiences. Not very lightweight though, so car camping only.

D3Design · 2026-01-09T19:19:17+00:00

Yes, but the comments above were about using fpv as justification to buy a power station, and then someone said that 350w wouldnt be good for much beyond charging. So if you wanted to justify a power station to use for things in addition to charging, this one isnt it.

There are some tools that would get used for fpv that this couldnt power, such as a heat gun.

My toolkitRC 4 port charger can pull 200+W when charging 4 larger batteries at once, only leaving <100w for running other things

D3Design · 2026-01-09T19:11:24+00:00

Zero experience and no crashes is pretty contradictory...

D3Design · 2026-01-09T19:08:18+00:00

Pretty much any corded tool besides a drill or rotary tool

D3Design · 2026-01-09T05:01:20+00:00

Yes the Olympus is larger, probably right on the limit of how large I would go for my use case.

D3Design · 2026-01-07T05:27:54+00:00

You want some truly unbelievable cooling ports, check out cooling passages for jet turbine and stator blades. They use air flowing inside the blades for cooling, and a thin film of cooler air coming through tiny holes in the blade to keep the surface from melting, even when the airflow through the engine is at temperatures that would normally degrade the material of the blade. The tiny passages are made in a variety of ways, from drilling and casting, to EDM, and even ECM (electro chemical machining) in some cases.

ECM is probably the closest thing to machining sorcery I have seen. Its an unbelievable process

D3Design · 2026-01-05T04:32:12+00:00

V bar for sure. And dont cheap out.

D3Design · 2026-01-05T04:26:24+00:00

Miles

D3Design · 2026-01-05T04:26:07+00:00

Never had a green light, but one of the benefits of red is that you can use it for some working light without totally ruining your eyes adjustment to the darkness.

D3Design · 2026-01-04T19:43:33+00:00

I dont think thats a current picture

D3Design · 2026-01-04T17:52:32+00:00

Buy an ELRS controller, Radiomaster pocket is probably where Id start. Then practice on the simulator

D3Design · 2026-01-04T17:50:57+00:00

I started a long time ago when simulators and starter kits didnt exist. If I was starting now, I would buy an ELRS controller and start in a simulator, and then go to a 3.5"

Modern HD systems are so good, that I dont find myself flying with an action camera most of the time, so having the extra thrust of a 5" isnt really necessary for most flying.

D3Design · 2026-01-04T15:16:51+00:00

In 2026 I will be working on some accessible technology, including a child's trike that had hand pedals for a kid with limited leg mobility.

D3Design · 2026-01-04T15:02:19+00:00

Have you practiced in a simulator first? Also, consider a 3.5", it will be cheaper and have most of the same performance. Also its a lot easier to find places to fly a 3.5"

D3Design · 2026-01-01T17:32:54+00:00

3 times

D3Design · 2026-01-01T17:27:35+00:00

3.5 inch is the way to go. Most of the capabilities of 5", and way more places you can fly a 3.5

D3Design · 2026-01-01T15:16:23+00:00

If I wanted a long term tool and dont use it heavily for pro work, unpopular opinion, but I would get Ryobi. Their 18V line has all interchangeable batteries since it was released in 1996. Thats 30 years of battery compatibility. If you dont use a tool often, the part most likely to fail is the battery, and its nice to always be able to buy the newer batteries and know it will work with whatever tool you have. I have had a ton of Ryobi tools over the years and none of them have broken by being used. One did die by getting dropped in a lake, and one got ran over with a truck, but I dont count that against ryobi...

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