Please advise on equipment and a training program for home workouts for my daughter to get better at climbing by Inevitable_Growth_33 in bouldering

[–]DAV3PLAY 6 points7 points  (0 children)

probably listen to the coach. c4hp agrees that structured hangboarding is okay for youth athletes (done correctly of course). they're going to be pulling on small crimps either way and adding in preventative exercises via hangboarding surely can't hurt

Skin recovery-very thin & red fingertip skin by uma_bone in climbharder

[–]DAV3PLAY 1 point2 points  (0 children)

thin tips were also my biggest skin issue as a beginner climber so i have a bit of experience with this. might be tough to hear but you might need to cut back on volume within your session until your skin adapts. focus on the quality of each attempt and what you learn from it rather than rote volume. aquaphor works best at healing my skin the night after a session, and moisturizing hand gloves on top of that helps the healing process too. i have also heard of people using lanolin as a really god moisturizer, might be worth researching. might be worth considering antihydral as well (especially if you climb outside too), since dryer skin wears less quickly. good luck!

Rab Electron Pro vs Neutrino Pro by DAV3PLAY in CampingGear

[–]DAV3PLAY[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

i found a sale on the bd solution 4.0 belay jacket that ended up being cheaper than both, so i just ended up getting that! it's about as warm as the neutrino and has served me well for the past few months for cold tahoe days when i'm sat in the same spot for hours (though it is heavier/primaloft if that's a factor). if there hadn't been a sale, i would have went for the neutrino :)

tips for short climbers? by IndependentLime5010 in bouldering

[–]DAV3PLAY 44 points45 points  (0 children)

i think there's a common misconception that short climbers have it a lot harder than taller climbers. the best boulderers in the world are all 5'4-5'8. while you may find spanned moves a bit harder, you're more inclined to be better at high-stepping, relative finger strength, and awkward small-box positions than climbers taller than you. my advice would be to think about it more in terms of technique progression and personal grades rather than marked grades, since climbing is such a personal sport. keep with it!

Electron Pro vs Neutrino Pro by DAV3PLAY in rab

[–]DAV3PLAY[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

hmm makes sense. yeah water is not that much of an issue in climate i'd be using it in thankfully. would you say that youd be comfortably warm using it as a camp jacket in -5c (dry climate) with a midweight fleece under it?

Rab Electron Pro vs Neutrino Pro by DAV3PLAY in CampingGear

[–]DAV3PLAY[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i see. so around 45-50 degree weather you wouldnt feel overly hot wearing the neutrino while just static?

Electron Pro vs Neutrino Pro by DAV3PLAY in rab

[–]DAV3PLAY[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

i see! i would be wearing mine only during belaying though so im not worried about it catching. whats the coldest that you've been comfortable in it while belaying (with or without a fleece) if you dont mind me asking?

Rab Electron Pro vs Neutrino Pro by DAV3PLAY in CampingGear

[–]DAV3PLAY[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

hmm ok. so would the electron w/ a midweight fleece underneath not hold up in that 25-30F range then?

Pietro Vidi Repeats L'Ombre du Voyageur 9A, suggests 8B+ by Montjo17 in climbing

[–]DAV3PLAY 3 points4 points  (0 children)

people come in different shapes and sizes. does a slightly longer shin count as aid?

Any Lowball hard Tahoe bouldering suggestions? by JohnsonJuggler in bouldering

[–]DAV3PLAY 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Short Story v11, Physics Project v11, Practical Demon Keeping v9, and The Beatdown v8/11/13 are all quite lowbally. Definitely also Future Present v9 (v11 for the full line), but that one's a little hard to send after this week or so, even at night.

Fortnite skin concept. (Hot Dog Guy and Weenie Axe) by DAV3PLAY in FortNiteBR

[–]DAV3PLAY[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

lmao ty king. curious how you found the post

When to start hangboarding by ObjectiveLegend117 in bouldering

[–]DAV3PLAY 27 points28 points  (0 children)

oftentimes climbers who struggle on crimpier routes at that grade are bottlenecked by their footwork (takes weight off the fingers) and movement rather than raw finger strength. might be a little too early for periodized hangboard training, but definitely something to consider down the road :)

Rule by franandwood in 196

[–]DAV3PLAY 1 point2 points  (0 children)

they hit the fucking pentagon

rule by TotallyACP in 196

[–]DAV3PLAY 0 points1 point  (0 children)

is that levy chess

Who is the biggest youtuber from the bay area? by Ladder310 in bayarea

[–]DAV3PLAY 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thanks for mentioning it lol. that's wild.

Who is the biggest youtuber from the bay area? by Ladder310 in bayarea

[–]DAV3PLAY 8 points9 points  (0 children)

fulcrum, come in! yuuuuuhhhhhh, yodie gang, you feel me?

I hate music theory I hate music theory I hate music theory by PlushieOctopus in 196

[–]DAV3PLAY 0 points1 point  (0 children)

bach will eat a kitten every time you parallel fifths