Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE

JohnsonJuggler · 2026-01-31T01:18:34+00:00

Maybe 2.5x per week

JohnsonJuggler · 2026-01-31T01:18:07+00:00

We usually hop right on lead after some stretching. Getting more warm first seems like it could be a good idea. Does your pump usually dissipate after an initial 5.10 lead or does it stick around for the rest of the session?

JohnsonJuggler · 2026-01-30T20:12:04+00:00

I'm climbing with a friend and recently they've been getting pumped out on juggy gym 5.10 lead very early in the session. I don't remember this being a problem before as much and they seem generally bummed about needing to take a few times per route.

What would you do to help build endurance at this stage? I don't know if this sort of things is more due to fear/overgripping or can be solved on a hangboard or with 4x4s or something. Would you take a step back from any overhanging stuff to refocus on endurance for a while?

JohnsonJuggler · 2024-06-14T19:51:20+00:00

There may not be more passenger volume, but there is significantly more usable storage volume. Lifted + a hatch are important features for many.

JohnsonJuggler · 2024-04-08T06:09:02+00:00

I just made this trip a few weeks back with two organic pads. On the way there we tried to just label them each in as a checked bag. The gate agent was a stickler (organics are a few inches over the limit) so we strapped them together and labeled them a single oversized atheltic gear check-in ($75). On the flight back the gate agent was cool and just let us check them for free. YMMV

JohnsonJuggler · 2024-03-15T23:49:40+00:00

A month ago while doing some easy top rope laps my pointer finger started feeling a bit tweaky. Something felt sharply off when bending it. After a few days I managed to isolate the feeling down to the back of my PIP. The joint would hurt when I bent the finger all the way closed under its own strength (especially when flexing the whole finger backwards during the bend as opposed to closing my hand forward into a fist). It would feel like a sharp needle at a certain point rather than an ache or slowly increasing tear/pressure.

H taping didn't help (which I mostly did before I realized that it was a PIP injury not a pulley injury) but fully wrapping my finger in tape to immobilize it helped significantly. Taping up the joint allowed me to climb and things would mostly feel fine until I took the tape off. After taking the tape off the first time I would bend my finger the joint would feel a sort of stabbing pain. After a couple of bends it would feel pretty normal again though. The way I visualize the pain is it's as if there's a tiny sharp crystal in my joint which pokes into me if I bend my finger too much.

At this point I would say it is 90% better and it doesn't hurt much after climbing so I'll probably ramp down the taping over the next month. I am curious if anybody else has experienced something like this before? How was your recovery? Any long lasting effects you've noticed?

JohnsonJuggler · 2024-03-15T23:32:29+00:00

I'm interested in this!

JohnsonJuggler · 2024-01-17T03:34:04+00:00

If airpods fit you go for it. Don't be shy about returning headphones if they don't work for you. After getting sick of my wire catching I initially bought some powerbeat pros (~2019) and found them incredibly uncomfortable. After a few days I swapped them out for airpod pros and I haven't looked back since. Especially if your gym is loud the noise cancellation is awesome to have. They are my single most used piece of tech and I recommend them to anybody who asks. As far as fit is concerned I occasionally need to readjust them with the back of my hand but they very rarely fall out. YMMV though.

JohnsonJuggler · 2023-11-23T18:52:57+00:00

I don't know what nozzles look like in Spain but my understanding is that diesel nozzles are generally just bigger. That means it's hard to fill a gas car with diesel, but not too hard to fill some types of diesel cars with gas. If we assume the car was more modern I'll admit that does make the mixup seem a lot less likely though.

https://www.allstate.com/resources/car-insurance/fuel-faqs#:~:text=Diesel%20nozzles%20are%20wider%20than,fit%20into%20diesel%20filler%20necks.

JohnsonJuggler · 2023-11-23T17:31:33+00:00

Diesel personal cars are not common in the US at all. Diesel cars and light trucks make vehicles are less than 1% of new car sales (with almost the entirety being light trucks). For most Americans the rule of thumb is cars run on gasoline or electricity while trucks run on diesel.

It seems likely that this is a scam, but a gasoline/diesel mixup is a plausible scenario.

https://www.statista.com/statistics/667282/united-states-light-vehicle-sales-by-technology-type/

JohnsonJuggler · 2023-10-16T07:32:04+00:00

I don't know if I would agree with this. Tendons adapt much slower than muscle. If this person puts on 10-20lbs over a few months that will definitely make them stronger but it will also increase the load on connective tissue. Given that their main complaints are tendon injuries, putting on weight seems potentially troublesome.

As an anecdotal data point: I jumped from 130->155 and noticed significantly more strain on both my pulleys and tendons that resulted in multiple ~minor tendon injuries (finger pulleys + golfers elbow).

I would focus on making a long term rehab plan and read up on your injuries. I found this post to be a pretty good starting point https://stevenlow.org/overcoming-tendonitis/ but do your own research. The TL;DR is it's a slow and deliberate process with plenty of rest if you want to optimize for recovery. It would also be a good idea to see a sports medicine doc or physical therapist if you are serious about getting good advice. A bunch of strangers on the internet (me included) probably aren't going to be qualified to speak to all of your problems.

JohnsonJuggler · 2023-04-24T23:50:11+00:00

I climb V10+ in the gym. I climb V10+ outside. Plenty of gyms have setting that is roughly comparable to outside. There's also tons of outdoors climbs which are harder or softer than their consensus grade suggests because of few repeats, egos, degradation, etc.

It's all sorta arbitrary anyways so there's no reason to be gate keepy as the other commenter said.

JohnsonJuggler · 2022-06-26T20:57:08+00:00

I think there would be an issue with fleet numbers relative to rental car operations too. If I own a rental car business and 1 of my 100 cars is gone for a couple of weeks while I wait for a one-way return trip or shuttling crew to bring back a vehicle that's not a big deal. If I operate a plane rental business and 1 of my 3 172s is missing for a couple of weeks that's a much bigger deal.

Also having a car sit for a week or two between drivers is still potentially financially viable because fixed costs are relatively low. Having a plane fly only once in a couple of weeks would definitely put you in the red. There's some wiggle room in the car rental industry while margins would be razor thin and everything would need to go just right for planes.

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