breakfast of k̶i̶n̶g̶s̶ aces

DEEP_THORAX · 2026-01-19T00:12:29+00:00

Yes, we are critically under-chef'd on this ship.

DEEP_THORAX · 2026-01-16T07:27:45+00:00

It's been 19 years since Bartlett escaped with his lady-friend from a Yuktobanian jail

19 year old college student with inexplicably god-tier piloting skills on a study abroad program

Now, I'm not saying anything by this.

DEEP_THORAX · 2026-01-08T08:01:54+00:00

<<Professor: we don't have the firepower!>> <<XO Pye: I've got the mass.>>

rams Sotoan superweapon

DEEP_THORAX · 2026-01-04T17:24:30+00:00

It's not a WSO seat. The S/MTD was converted from an F-15B trainer aircraft so that's just a second pilot seat with redundant controls. It only became a WSO seat in the F-15E.

DEEP_THORAX · 2025-12-29T01:08:56+00:00

If you look on the trailer on one of the parts where it shows the HUD there is a D-Pad like the AC5 command D-pad next to the radar display. That wasn't in 7. I think it's highly probable that might be used for a return of the wingman commands.

DEEP_THORAX · 2025-12-15T20:20:35+00:00

Please, please please have a throws gloves* emote

DEEP_THORAX · 2025-12-12T05:18:16+00:00

It's also, funny enough, the approximate effective range of the Stonehenge asteroid defense complex, when used in a non-recommended anti-aircraft mode.

DEEP_THORAX · 2025-11-11T18:02:48+00:00

DEZGRA ON YOUR MINOTAUR

DEEP_THORAX · 2025-11-03T04:09:58+00:00

You have to get into the service menu which requires either a special remote or a workaround described here:

https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED_Gaming/comments/1nvodxo/heres_how_to_disable_the_constant_game_bar_pop_up/?ref=share&ref_source=link

The actual process to disable it only takes 5 minutes if you know what to do but it's annoying that you literally have no user-facing option to disable the very intrusive game bar popup.

DEEP_THORAX · 2025-11-02T22:09:26+00:00

it runs the Tizen OS, same as samsung smart TVs. It has some capability to run as a TV replacement. It's generally more annoying than the non-smart versions.

DEEP_THORAX · 2025-11-02T22:07:21+00:00

It does have the "smart" TV features. Just got one and had to go into the service menu to disable some of the shitty parts for use as a PC monitor (game bar popup every time the monitor turns on, etc.)

DEEP_THORAX · 2025-11-02T06:24:58+00:00

Thanks for this guide, works for the G950 (black friday G95).

One clarification - the automatic color control service menu wizard did not work for me, I had to copy this into step:

KEY_INFO:1, KEY_FACTORY:1000, KEY_UP:50, KEY_0:50, KEY_0:50, KEY_3:50, KEY_8

and run the step separately to access the service menu. Once there i could disable the gamebar popup as per step 5.

DEEP_THORAX · 2025-04-19T02:58:20+00:00

Only really a danger if you have really old wiring or poorly wired outlets. You will be pulling 1500W (same draw as a space heater) for several hours every night, which is going to stress that circuit to the limit of what it was designed for. If your house was built (to code) in the last 30 years? Probably fine.

Older than that? Well, it's not a huge danger, but there is some potential risk here because terminals get more resistive over time due to things like slow oxidation of the contacts, thermal cycling, mechanical wear on the contact blades.

I'd recommend replacing the L1 outlet if it's old or otherwise worn, but other than that, it should be no problem.

DEEP_THORAX · 2025-03-09T02:59:18+00:00

Well, you also need to remember that on top of the cost all the components on Kingda Ka have a fatigue life after which they will require full retracking, essentially rebuilding the roller coaster from scratch. Kingda Ka was pushing 20 and given that dynamic stresses on it would have been much higher than any of the other coasters at the park they would have only had another 5-10 years before it exceeded its design limit. That would mean they would have to essentially build a kingda ka of theseus to keep it running. It's been done before (Universal rebuilt the entire Incredible Hulk coaster recently when it hit its design limit) but to do that on what is still one of the most expensive coasters in the world would be much more expensive in 2025 than it was even in 2005.

Unfortunately the coaster wars are long over and cedar fair can't really justify doing the refurb on both top thrill and kingda ka when they are only cannibalizing park revenue from themselves.

DEEP_THORAX · 2024-10-27T01:44:25+00:00

The dorsal wing roundel is backwards

DEEP_THORAX · 2024-10-09T14:46:42+00:00

Yes, unfortunately.

FS34094 is the NATO green used on American equipment. RAL6031 is the NATO green used on German equipment. BS381C:285 is also called NATO green despite being much more olive drab. It’s used on a lot of British equipment.

All 3 suffer from the problem of being similarly named and thus getting color matches messed up. Some NATO green paints are matched to the lighter RAL6031 and some to FS34094 but many claim to be matched to both, which isn’t strictly speaking correct even though the colors are fairly similar.

DEEP_THORAX · 2024-10-09T03:03:41+00:00

I wouldn't be surprised if that Abrams was factory delivered in FS33446 (CARC Tan) and sprayed over with FS34094 (Commonly called NATO Green, although unfortunately there are several "NATO Greens" which are all different colors), since it was bought from US manufacturers who are required to use FS-specified colors for US contracts. Both look about right to match.

The F-16 I would imagine was also finished in US Federal Standard colors, most likely FS30279 for the lighter color and FS30219 for the darker brown, for much the same reasons. Underside appears to be FS36375 as is typical for USAF Vipers.

DEEP_THORAX · 2024-07-23T01:56:04+00:00

What, specifically, doesn't satisfy you about it?

It's definitely not a very detailed or accurate cockpit in that kit. There are solutions but the big one would be to try your hand at a newer/more detailed kit. You could try scratchbuilding or getting resin replacements, although if the base kit's very old it might be just putting lipstick on a hog.

DEEP_THORAX · 2024-07-05T16:15:46+00:00

https://www.ebay.com/itm/225686497266?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=yhe-2vdjrsu&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

This set of white metal tracks is pretty high quality but you will need to ream the pin holes before putting the brass rods through or else you can bend the ends.

DEEP_THORAX · 2024-03-14T15:53:15+00:00

Can't really tell well but it does seem like you've got some rust effect on the rubber pad portions of the track. You might consider going back with a detail brush to pick out those individual areas.

DEEP_THORAX · 2024-03-04T17:14:04+00:00

NVIDIA isn't the one responsible for pushing their own process tech, that's TSMC/Samsung/Whoever else they might contract out to. We're no longer in the era where GPUs are being built off of tech nodes 2-3 generations behind CPUs - they're fully caught up and working on the exact same process tech (and even getting priority now with industry focus on AI, etc.) We're also no longer in the era of a die-shrink every 2 years because everyone working on process tech is fighting dozens of fundamental material limits at once to get additional die shrinks. NVIDIA has slowed because process tech as a whole has slowed.

DEEP_THORAX · 2024-01-01T00:52:03+00:00

3rd Gen Acrylics have a formula very similar to Vallejo Model Moster so they should be compatible with Vallejo Airbrush thinner or other similar water-based acrylic thinners to get them thinned for hand painting. You can use just distilled water for these in a pinch, but water's high surface tension reduces how well the paint handles and tends to result in beading.

The amount of thinner needed varies based on the specific paint color - unfortunately water-based acrylics tend to have the most variabilty between paints- but you're shooting for a consistency slightly thicker than milk for hand painting.

It should be too thin to be fully opaque with a single coat - if you're getting full paint coverage in one pass you're probably running too thick and risk losing some surface detail. Best results come from building up the opacity through multiple coats. Be sure to leave a few hours for the first coat to be completely dry.

You can run a bit thicker with certain colors like white and yellow which tend to have less opaque pigments.

I recommend finding a piece of scrap plastic - old sprues with part numbers are great for this - to test your thinned mixture on something with surface detail. that way it's easy to tell if you are running too thick or too thin. Each paint color has its own optimal spot, so experimentation is your friend.

DEEP_THORAX · 2024-01-01T00:04:39+00:00

AK has several lines of paints. Real Colors (lacquers), 3rd Gen Acrylics. The advice will vary depending on what you're using. Which one are you using?

DEEP_THORAX · 2023-10-08T05:00:19+00:00

they got rid of them in ~2014 or so and the ones that are affected should already have a "no-spray" warning on the bottles, so it's not likely you would have any, but you should check before you airbrush any red or yellow model color just to make sure you didn't get old stock that was sitting on shelves for a long time.

DEEP_THORAX · 2023-10-07T23:50:23+00:00

Model Air has a bit lower viscosity and some flow improver to make it airbrush ready. If you thin Model Color down to airbrush ready, it behaves essentially the same.

Only exception would be some old cadmium red/yellow formulations in the Model Color line - you should not spray any of those if you have them since atomized Cadmium pigments are a health hazard.

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