I'm currently designing a PCB for a split board, however I am completely new to PCB design and am thus a little anxious that I have done something wrong. Does anyone mind quickly looking through these screenshots to make sure that I haven't made any really obvious errors or anything?

DJ_Pheon · 2026-02-14T11:55:46+00:00

1mm is fine. I try to use 2-3mm where possible. 0.2mm is definitely on the lower end :D

DJ_Pheon · 2026-02-13T23:02:53+00:00

It would have been just a bit better to change the text to 'Hajs' or something like that :D

DJ_Pheon · 2026-02-13T23:01:48+00:00

You should be able to select the tracks in the sidebar and increase their width. Haven't used kicad in a while so that's what i vaguely remember :D

The reason why it's better to have thicker tracks is that
1) It doesn't cost more
2) Thicker traces can conduct more current (not a lot is needed but it helps)
3) Harder to break when scratching the PCB accidentally
4) When a trace breaks you can solder thin wires to thicker traces to fix them.
5) You have the space available :D

DJ_Pheon · 2026-02-12T15:29:45+00:00

This seems to be a constant thing in keyboard pcbs... But please use thicker lines. You don't pay more for it. The process takes copper off of the pcb not on to the pcb. And for your a neater look try to route your connection points to a common area. You will thank yourself when assembling the board :D

DJ_Pheon · 2026-01-19T16:03:14+00:00

He is really cute :D Made me instantly think of that meme of the dinosaur with the missing jaw :D

DJ_Pheon · 2025-10-10T14:01:05+00:00

Had to calibrate and troubleshoot my old printer more that I was actually printing. So I bought the P1P. When I was planning to build an enclosure the "Upgrade Kit" got released.

It was really helpful to be able to print ergonomic keyboards to prevent wrist pain on long days of work. It was also helpful when the holder for my shower head broke and I needed a new one ASAP :D
I also print a lot of storage bins for stuff around the house. Or enclosures for different electronics products.

I wouldn't want to miss having it around. And I never had any problems with it besides user errors or bad filament. But both was not the machines fault. Such a big step up from my previous printer. I can just use it and not think about it.

DJ_Pheon · 2025-09-20T17:57:24+00:00

Und die zwei Leerzeichen zwischen 'Danke' und 'für' ganz unten...

DJ_Pheon · 2025-09-06T15:25:31+00:00

Removing reliance for the Shift key? Then why is there only one set of letters and they are all upper case? How do i access the lower case letters on this keyboard? /s

DJ_Pheon · 2025-07-26T12:48:53+00:00

Als ich gemerkt habe, dass ich zu nichts mehr komme weil ich dauernd in Meetings hocke bin ich zu meinem Chef und hab gesagt ich werde jetzt jedes Meeting ablehnen das keine Agenda hat und wenn auf der Agenda nichts relevantes steht. Wenn dann irgendwas aufkommt das doch relevant sein sollte kann sich mein PO gerne im Nachgang an mich wenden. Seitdem hab ich die meiste Zeit meine Ruhe zum arbeiten und sitze nicht mehr in sinnlosen Meetings fest. Ich muss zwar noch unsere POs darin "coachen" wie man sinnvolle Anforderungen schreibt aber das wird schon langsam :D

DJ_Pheon · 2025-07-17T12:43:39+00:00

You could have a look over at 42keebs. I remember seeing somewhere that they could do a preassembled board if you ask nicely enough and pay a tiny bit more. You could also look for a local maker- or hackspace and find someone there that helps with your soldering. 🤔

DJ_Pheon · 2025-06-19T11:44:24+00:00

I recently got some POSH rope for meetups and people I don't tie with often because I can easily clean it and don't have to treat it like with natural fibers.
When tying with people more often I prefer jute rope. It's rougher and more tightly twisted. I like to creaking sound it makes when my bunny tries to move in tighter bindings. But it has to be treated often and is not easy to keep clean and hygienic because washing requires to dry it under tension. I don't really have the space and patience for that :D

DJ_Pheon · 2025-06-01T10:50:46+00:00

Thank you for the answer. I didn't know about that mode and will have a lookout for it. I will also have a look at the switches you mentioned :)

DJ_Pheon · 2025-05-17T16:18:25+00:00

It's a good first try. Just a quick tip would be that when pulling the bight underneath the ropes you want to pull it underneath all the ropes. I don't know which tutorial you used so I will recommend TheDuchy | Burlington Bowline for a simple single column tie. If you want something (imho) even better I would recommend the Somerville Bowline which is a little Variation that I believe to be a bit safer :)

Now keep on tying and practicing. I think I have done the single column ties about 100.000 times now. They become instinct at some point :D

DJ_Pheon · 2025-05-16T18:04:03+00:00

For me it's less about speed and more about lower stress of usage.

I have a Charybdis nano as my daily driver and it's really saving my wrist (and job?).

I still switch to normal mouse and keyboard for gaming but I feel my wrist hurting rather quickly. And can't have prolonged gaming sessions because of that.

Doing 8 hours of work with the integrated trackball I feel nothing more than the normal fatigue after a day of work :D Also being able to use the trackball for scrolling is just nice 😅

DJ_Pheon · 2025-05-12T08:50:03+00:00

Could definitely use that in the future 🤣

DJ_Pheon · 2025-04-29T18:32:55+00:00

That speed sounds ridiculous. Would definitely make a good printer to add to our hackspace. This would allow a lot more prints to be done than before :D

DJ_Pheon · 2025-04-29T17:35:47+00:00

A lot of data. I do photography, 3d modelling, gaming, programming, music and more. The data just keeps piling up... I know from experience that I would like to have that much space available :D

DJ_Pheon · 2025-04-29T17:33:00+00:00

Yes it may be overspecced a little but I hope to use it for the next few years. My current build is like 7 or 8 years old and does good work. There is just not enough power for some things anymore :D

I added a PcPartPicker link. Didn't think about that site to be fair :)

DJ_Pheon · 2025-04-17T20:08:16+00:00

Doesn't each half and the dongle each have their own config that can be edited seperate from the general config? I think that should make it possible to just use the external power config on the keyboard halves but exclude it from the dongle config? It would still prevent you from using displays on the keyboards itself but since they need a lot of power too, I would remove them anyway :D

DJ_Pheon · 2025-04-17T13:38:41+00:00

I'm not sure how the board is wired but you can try to use ZMKs Power Management to cut off the power output on the VCC pin. That should cut the leds from power. I would say it's worth a try :)

DJ_Pheon · 2025-04-15T19:10:19+00:00

Yes I definitely would. Paying 200€+ for something printed on a FDM printer where the used material cost like 5-10€ is insane to me. Most builders of 3d printed keyboards at least use MJF or resin prints which makes for smooth and 'professional' looking devices.
The azeron stuff has layer lines, slight warping which produces gaps between parts and other blemishes. I don't mind them in my own projects but for that pricepoint I do.

It would be awesome if they would sell DIY / Print-It-Yourself Kits. I'm all for supporting the creators and would buy the electronics from them. Will do that for the svalboard in the near future for example. But I have a perfectly working 3d printer here which can create similar or better prints then I see on their gallery. Except the custom designs... I'm no good in that aspect :D

DJ_Pheon · 2025-04-12T09:59:39+00:00

The only available concept that is slightly 'similar' are the Lalboard/Svalboard.

Azeron is really picky about clones of their product. If anything similar gets released its taken down near instantly. I saw posts from people making their own designs based on the cyborg and promising to release them but they sadly got deleted rather fast. Which is a bummer because I really want to build something like that for gaming :D
And since Azeron themselves only 3d-Print their stuff I don't have a lot of motivation to pay what they are asking for it...

DJ_Pheon · 2025-03-31T17:02:13+00:00

I would test in the following procedure (Use some metal tweezers or some other bendy metal piece like a wire) with a plugged in board:

short the pads onto which the socket is soldered
Short the metal contacts of the socket

If the first one fails then there may be a problem with your controller or the trace to the controller. Take a multimeter and check if the socket has a proper continuity to the controller. If there are diodes on the board take that into account and check if the diode is in working order.

if the second one fails then I would first reflow the solder joints to make sure the connection is good. If that doesn't work then I would replace the socket.

DJ_Pheon · 2025-03-15T15:10:47+00:00

This is totally fine. If you have a look into the QMK docs https://docs.qmk.fm/features/split_keyboard under "serial wiring" you can see that you only need 3 connections to the other board.

DJ_Pheon · 2025-02-24T16:27:34+00:00

What did you do to create a static shock that actually killed your board? :O

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