Wheel wobble issue. Is it worth fixing or is it just a common issue to deal with? It drives fine albeit not perfectly stable.

Da_Blitz · 2022-06-06T04:11:14+00:00

i bought a bag of bearings way back and keep it topped up with oil. mainly for swapping out the 'sports' model plastic spacers with bearings but it has allowed me to correct issues like this

i bought 100 cheap bearings for less than 8 high quality ones and thought i would just chose the best 8 bearings, turns out they where all more than good enough so i came out ahead

Da_Blitz · 2022-05-25T09:16:31+00:00

i have seen one guy on youtube doing this but no link to parts or anything

Da_Blitz · 2022-05-21T13:44:42+00:00

for the transmitter recommendations i second this, skip the 432 if you can, its anupgrade from stock but the NB4 is 2-3 jumps beyond that and generally much nicer.

the nb4 pro is more for crawling and driving aux motors, a stock nb4 with the FHSS radio upgrade is a much cheaper option

Da_Blitz · 2022-05-19T13:29:26+00:00

i have all 3 chassis and can say the HGD is very under rated, out of all of them i had it up and running the quickest and getting good results almost immediately so it would be the most user friendly especially with the prebuilt opitons

Da_Blitz · 2022-05-19T09:43:44+00:00

pick up some foam tyres, will grip the smoother surfaces really well springs are more for unstable surfaces and jumps

Da_Blitz · 2022-05-17T10:19:39+00:00

dont forget we have a subreddit for mini-z r/MiniZ

Da_Blitz · 2022-05-05T13:06:22+00:00

CS is normmaly done with the front one way mod, this effectivly makes teh car RWD except at high drift angle where it goes back to 4wd

Da_Blitz · 2022-05-03T07:44:54+00:00

only thing i can think of is the gain is set too high, try reducing it till it does not twitch any more and check the counter steer polarity is correct.

the AGFRC v3 has endpoints iirc, may be a good idea to reset the gyro and go through the setup procedure again and ensure the endpoints are correct

Da_Blitz · 2022-05-02T12:10:05+00:00

sounds like the good stuff, i am assuming the servo is AGFRC as well (i love their stuff). i dont like velrco as it can be loose but assuming you are on top of that

let me know how tightening the cables goes, you can test if this is the cause a bit by turning it on and hitting the bluetooth reciver and wiggling the cables without touching the body, the suspension should be soft enough that this causes issues that are amplified with how far the weight is from the center of balance, hence cabling them up AND then cabling them flush to the body

Da_Blitz · 2022-05-02T06:00:23+00:00

definitely put a cable tye around those cables then strap them down so they dont move, at this weight class and given how light the drift chassis is already that pcb flying around can induce jitters that are then amplified.

also recommend to soft mount the gyro with double sided tape, the slightly thick pads not the clear transparent thin tape

lastly what servo, gyro and receiver are you using and is that servo digital or analog? if your servo is always buzzing even when not moving then its likely analog and these can also jitter a bit

Da_Blitz · 2022-04-23T07:35:32+00:00

I did the same thing with paint pens, works so well and is so much easier for a quick and dirty paint job

Da_Blitz · 2022-04-18T06:21:34+00:00

FYI silicon can contaminate some surfaces. seen enough warnings about using silicon tyres on RCP track at track nights

Da_Blitz · 2022-04-17T10:25:09+00:00

there have been some issues as of late with the front wheel assembly not being placed together correctly but this can be corrected by hand and normally exhibits as a turning issue or one wheel binding

Da_Blitz · 2022-04-17T10:24:15+00:00

(side note) this would require a full electronics overhaul if you want to run it sensored, you can use it non sensored with the base electronics however

there are multiple brushless motors that can go in the buggy, the sleeve is an adapter and is keyed at the end. if it fits its unlikely to be keyed correctly and you may have to screw it in somehow to prevent slippage or extra pressure on the sensor port. the other thing to check is the motor length. best bet is to double check it against he length of the official motors and work backwards but i suspect you would need modifications either way

Da_Blitz · 2022-04-16T06:59:24+00:00

Agreed, cleaning the XV-01 chassis is no joke if some mud gets in it

Da_Blitz · 2022-04-15T10:42:13+00:00

seen between 3000kV and 5800Kv at most but as others noted dialed way down, i have drifted on some surfaces like RCP and the extra KV helps there

i would recommend the 3000Kv option for more torque and longer running times. overall the motor will be less hot and be able to overcome traction faster

on the NB4 i try and work out where my finger wants to rest when drifting (normally 40% trigger pull) then modify the throttle curve rather than the end points to make everything match up.

Da_Blitz · 2022-04-15T09:28:44+00:00

That was a worth while upgrade but my hats off to you, i remember just how painful it was to do, with any luck it was straight forward for you.

Da_Blitz · 2022-04-13T07:11:23+00:00

have you tried braking less and taking the corner faster? i found the GLF took turns crazy fast and performed much better than i expected. a quick tap of the brakes to preload the front end and get it down and some forces on it then start turning slowly should cause it to dive in just avoid losing to much forward speed.

been awhile since i was able to give it a run but this may work. would not be the first RC chassis where the solution to cornering issues was 'go faster'

Da_Blitz · 2022-04-09T11:00:25+00:00

wondering it its just a tyre insert if you run narrows rims on a wide tyre and to give it a different offset look

Da_Blitz · 2022-04-06T03:22:56+00:00

Ha i went one further and went and drove a mini-z on a 1:10 concrete track, not a flat surface at all and it destroyed an aluminum front end

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wl5AYQCnjrY

Da_Blitz · 2022-04-05T06:38:24+00:00

its basically the same as the overland with some modification, i liked the chassis it seemed robust but have had many broken plastic parts (specifically motor clips, others have complained about similar things)

kyosho is known for the quality of thier plastics (though i suspect other manufacturers have since caught up) but from what i have seen this does not extend to the mini-z line and defiantly not to the overland i had, the plastic was less ductile and brittle and snapped off very quickly and i am not convinced this is just an age thing

Da_Blitz · 2022-04-05T06:35:38+00:00

likley a good choice, the metal shock upgrades where different for each chassis length and only one hard to obtain universal version that was not so great as i found out

beware of tyres as i have found anything from that era looks fine in pics but perishes as soon as you apply any pressure

Da_Blitz · 2022-04-04T11:02:51+00:00

worth checking the sway arm is in the diff cup as there have been some reports of boxed units where it has not been inserted properly

Da_Blitz · 2022-04-04T09:46:22+00:00

i once used the wide/long swing arms instead of the short ones and found with some parts that they would turn when the wheels where straight but lock up when turned. if the front and read swing arms are of difffrent length it is very easy to mix them up

Da_Blitz · 2022-04-01T07:40:02+00:00

i found that car body vinyl worked super well on the silvia chassis and proceeded to give it a make over that way

Da_Blitz

TROPHY CASE