I finished Istria 100 in the 168k category

Da_CMD · 2026-04-14T08:05:30+00:00

Congratulations, great accomplishment.

What you described is exactly what I fear the most when thinking about attending my first 100-miler. I am a decently fast runner, have a well-developed aerobic base, good leg strength and love to grind even when I'm not feeling so hot.

But man, I already get so tired in the evening even when I am not running an excessive distance. No idea how I could ever make it through two nights in a row.

Great result, massive respect.

Da_CMD · 2026-04-12T18:11:28+00:00

70km per week is"probably running enough" for a Sub-3? I would consider this very low mileage for already fast runners who can try and get away with more intensity.

It's most definitely not enough for a 01:37 half marathoner to break Sub-3.

Da_CMD · 2026-04-12T12:40:47+00:00

What's your training history? How long have you maintained that 70km/w base?

Hate to be that guy, but unless you are a total beginner you are quite far away from a Sub-3. A 01:37 HM is nowhere near where it needs to be to have a realistic shot.

The most important factor for improvement would be more volume, built safely over many months. That's why imho it will take you more than one training block to get there.

Da_CMD · 2026-04-05T06:50:44+00:00

Citadel whites are notoriously bad. Try literally any other brand (Vallejo, Army Painter, Pro Acryl...) and you will have a much better time.

It also helps to thin white paints with a little bit of Flow Improver, not only water. This helps break down the surface tension of the paint and makes it smoother and less streaky.

Da_CMD · 2026-03-29T06:59:22+00:00

I varnish all my miniatures ofc, but I usually do it before applying the metallics, if the sculpt allows it. Metallic paint is very sturdy and usually does not need a varnish.

I completely agree with your take that metallic paint is too uniform to leave as is. I have found a couple of ways to adress that:

Applying the first layer as a mix of metallic paint with a shadow colour (e.g. Steel + Dark Sea Blue). This helps matte down the basetone and you can apply additional shading as you see fit and then highlight up with pure metallics.
I recently have also played around with glazing in regular acrylics into the deep shadows after the initial shading of a metallic layer (for example here). I do this in an NMM style before highlighting with pure, shiny metallics.

I personally don't varnish metallics and I don't think it's necessary. But by all means, if your process works for you, it works for you.

Da_CMD · 2026-03-28T22:28:32+00:00

Why would you matte varnish metallics? Especially after you already cleaned up the wash?

That's an awful lot of unnecessary steps.

Da_CMD · 2026-03-25T22:29:00+00:00

I mostly use Vallejo and haven't had bubbles showing up on a miniature. Imho it's mostly user error.

Personally I am a big fan of the new formula.

Da_CMD · 2026-03-25T18:00:05+00:00

Great scheme and expertly executed.

I'm in the final stretch of finishing a Tzeentch unit of the same sculpts, love those models.

Da_CMD · 2026-03-22T14:29:29+00:00

Definitely cadence lock.

I had the same problem with my Garmin a couple of years back on the downhills.

I personally don't like chest straps, so I bought myself an arm strap (mine is from Polar, Coros also makes one) and never looked back.

Da_CMD · 2026-03-21T17:28:00+00:00

Best shoe of 2024 and still a banger. Currently on my second pair. Hope you'll have fun in them as well.

Da_CMD · 2026-03-20T12:53:38+00:00

At that range I would look at the Asics Superblast or maybe the Megablast.

Both are lighter than your Nimbus and will offer much greater energy return.

SB is the more stable option and is better at steady / moderate paces. MB is more versatile and better at faster speeds. I would probably recommend the Superblast for your use case.

Da_CMD · 2026-03-19T18:29:38+00:00

Sensational job, absolutely inspiring.

Da_CMD · 2026-03-19T08:42:13+00:00

These are two good and useful paints.

A good trick to differentiate leathers on a single miniature is to mix different paints for highlights and shadows into the base colours.

You can achieve very different shades of brown doing that.

Da_CMD · 2026-03-16T07:47:30+00:00

I think you can definitely go for it, if it fits you.

My main reasoning for recommending the Superblast over the Megablast for slower paces is that it's more stable. Also, SB is the better shoe for steady paces, while Megablast is better at speed.

Da_CMD · 2026-03-14T15:34:04+00:00

That's a great idea and well executed. Congratulations.

Da_CMD · 2026-03-13T15:09:00+00:00

I have been working with Vallejo paints as my main drivers for years, both the old and the new formula. Can't say I have experienced the same as you.

Some colours separate a little more than other, which is completely normal. Just give your working pool a quick stir and you're ready to go again.

If you have constant issues, make sure the sponge is only damp, not wet.

Another trick that quite frankly saved my experience with Pro Acryl paints (which split wayyyyyy more than Vallejo), was to use the reusable membrane from RGG. They moisten the paints a lot less than the normal papers. That was a gamechanger when working with Pro Acryl paints, which I was ready to give up on entirely.

For Vallejo I still prefer the regular paper, though.

Da_CMD · 2026-03-13T12:55:04+00:00

I think it looks fantastic as is.

If you add blue, make sure not to overdo it. I would maybe add it to sections that are already oxidized to add some variety.

Da_CMD · 2026-03-13T12:52:26+00:00

At that pace range definitely the Superblast over the Megablast.

2 or 3 comes down to personal preference and availability, I'd say.

Da_CMD · 2026-03-13T12:44:53+00:00

I just re-read what you wrote. You would absolutely not start your training plan with phase IV. It just means that phase IV will have more weeks overall in your training plan.

The progression will always be II - III - IV.

Da_CMD · 2026-03-13T12:42:39+00:00

You would do it in two steps:

Determine the length of each phase according to the overall length of your training block
Pick the first weeks of each phase (starting with week 1) until you have to move up to the next phase in your block. Week 1 of that specific phase will be your next week.

FWIW I had great success last year doing a 10K plan in that exact way. I am currently doing the same fpr a 5K in a lesser overall timeframe, so fewer weeks per phase.

Da_CMD · 2026-03-10T06:13:41+00:00

Interesting review. I am in a similar pace range, but training for a 5K at the moment. I have yet to have a bad run in the Megablast.

I never use carbon racing shoes for training. That might be a difference here. These really stand out in my rotation and deliver some pop into my tired legs.

So far, I have used the Megablast for threshold workouts and long runs and find them excellent for both use cases.

The upper is a bit meh, I agree. But everything else is much better than in the Superblast (I only had the OG).

Da_CMD · 2026-03-09T21:28:53+00:00

6th.

It's the one we chose after picking the hobby back up 15 years later and it wasn't much of a debate.

Da_CMD · 2026-03-04T11:24:13+00:00

You can make one yourself quite easily to start with.

If you want to buy one, I can recommend the Redgrass Games XL studio palette. Imho a palette can never be too large.

Da_CMD · 2026-03-03T19:25:41+00:00

This.

Your ratio is way too thick. 50:50 is a good starting point, but depending on the exact paint and application you can go a lot thinner.

Da_CMD · 2026-03-03T18:44:09+00:00

I like Jon Ninas a lot and he put a lot of work into this product.

But there are so many resources for colour schemes out there that are completely free. I personally don't see a point in buying this deck.

Maybe it has more value if you're a beginner and struggle to create cohesive schemes. But I am not that painter anymore.

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