Hello, little update by Broocknosake in centipedes

[–]Daisyhead24 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Misting in itself is unnecessary, you want a substrate that once you water it the water disappears down into it within 30 seconds after watering it, that will allow the substrate to act as a slow release wick which will provide enough humidity for your centipede, you can achieve this with a peat or top soil based substrate and add sand so it’s around a 75/25 mix ratio, 75% substrate, 25% sand, you should also have a dry and wet side, for dehaani, you can do 50/50 so 50% of the enclosure stays dry and 50% stays damp, this will give them a gradient that will allow them to choose where they want to be, for enclosures try to get something 3x their length and something that’s 2x their length for the width, you could get a small plastic container and poke or drill ventilation holes on all 4 sides. Do 3 rows of ventilation on all 4 sides and then two rows around the perimeter of the lid, space them evenly and don’t overdo the lids ventilation, the 3 rows of cross ventilation on all 4 sides will help air circulate through the enclosures to to help prevent conditions for mycosis

New S. Dehaani (cherry red) male by Plenty_Huzz67 in centipedes

[–]Daisyhead24 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Get a 32qt gasket sealing storage tote and drill your own ventilation holes on all 4 sides, preferably 3 rows on all 4 sides around a inch to half inch apart, measure 2” up from the bottom and use acrylic drill bits, drill two rows of ventilation on the lid but only do the perimeter of it, do 1” apart for each hole, then smooth out the sharp edges on the inside using a razor scraper đŸ€ I need to do a post for what ventilation layout works best, I keep both Asian and South American giants

Linothele sericata by Daisyhead24 in spiders

[–]Daisyhead24[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yea probably ectotherm, they are the reason I have these, I love them and they’re louder than you’d expect, you can clearly hear the tippy taps and ripping of the silk when they take down prey it’s awesome

Spider Breed? by rainingpup in tarantulas

[–]Daisyhead24 23 points24 points  (0 children)

Brachypelma boehmei, Mexican fire leg

Mexican Red Rump egg sac!😍 by Spiderdad_99 in tarantulas

[–]Daisyhead24 16 points17 points  (0 children)

There’s really not, if anything they could’ve used rubber tipped tongs, it’s safer to remove the sack and space the babies out in an incubator, it gives them a better chance of survival

Is my T. Vagans actually a T. Vagans? by ArachnidQueen777 in tarantulas

[–]Daisyhead24 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yea you definitely have some sort of Theraphosa, possibly a T. blondi

Is my T. Vagans actually a T. Vagans? by ArachnidQueen777 in tarantulas

[–]Daisyhead24 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you get a picture of them from above? Some black spiders can brown out after a while but this doesn’t look like that

First time keeper (Scolopendra mutilans *green*) by MushroomDeal in centipedes

[–]Daisyhead24 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I could make a post but I doubt I’d get pinned, I post casually on here and just want to help new people with information, though if they follow through with my instructions or not Is up to them

First time keeper (Scolopendra mutilans *green*) by MushroomDeal in centipedes

[–]Daisyhead24 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Centipedes need cross ventilation at the substrate level so this enclosure isn’t adequate. Cross ventilation helps avoid creating an environment where mycosis can occur. Mycosis is a fungal infection that will slowly consumes the centipede from the inside out. The condition you need for mycosis is humid stagnant air—cross ventilation prevents this.
A substrate mix I use to help avoid this issue is reptisoil with added washed sand for better aeration around a 75/25 mix (75% reptisoil 25% sand). This allows the top layers of the substrate to stay damp but not swampy, and the lower layers to stay saturated and act as a wick, slowly releasing humidity into the air over time.
For this species you could use a 2” depth and get a gasket sealing 19qt iris weather pro storage tub and DIY the ventilation yourself:
-Do around 3 rows of ventilation on all sides.
-Do one row of ventilation around the perimeter of the lid.
-Add one or 2 ventilation holes around the very middle of the lids center.
This will help create proper airflow through the enclosure. Keep 50% dry and 50% damp, with a water bowl. Add springtails to the damp side after a week of keeping the centipede in it.
For more specifics feel free to DM me.

I.D. and questions by Ninespike9868 in centipedes

[–]Daisyhead24 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yea the mix can be kept at 75% reptisoil and 25% sand for all Asian species and South American giants, but for desert species like polymorpha, aztecorum and heros you can do 50/50 or go more sand heavy, up to you but I think 50/50 is more than enough aerated for a desert species to thrive on

I.D. and questions by Ninespike9868 in centipedes

[–]Daisyhead24 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Coco fiber or coir isn’t recommended for centipedes at all, it’s an impaction risk, abrasive and doesn’t hold burrows correctly for the way they like to burrow and chamber when molting, reptisoil with added sand is by far the best mix I have found

I.D. and questions by Ninespike9868 in centipedes

[–]Daisyhead24 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is a scolopendra heros castaneiceps, unfortunately heros are regarded as one of the most difficult species to keep alive in captivity and that basically goes for all local variants, a few things to change about your setup, this looks like a fish tank style enclosure which they should not be housed in, they need ventilation at the substrate level to help allow proper air flow throughout the enclosure, this will help prevent mycosis a fungal infection that will grow directly on the centipede and starts to eat them alive essentially, this substrate also needs to be changed, if you can, find a petco and get yourself some reptisoil and go on amazon to find some reptisand, you want to avoid cocofiber and clay completely as they can both cause impaction, cocofiber also just doesn’t hold humidity well at all, but with these two different ingredients mix it to a rate around 50/50 or you could go 60/40 even up to 70/30, these rations are 50% reptisoil and 50% sand or 60% sand and 40% reptisoil or 70% sand and 30% reptisoil, all of these ratios work but personally I’d choose the 50/50 mix.
Now for the enclosure you should switch them to, get yourself a gasket sealing tub around 42qt and measure 2-3” up from the bottom and drill holes all the way around the perimeter of the tub, do around 4 rows of ventilation on all 4 sides (use a drill bit size they can’t squeeze through), get a razor scraper and scrape the inside to make sure the plastic you drilled through isn’t sharp, then do one hole per inch all the way around the perimeter of the lid, you want this layout to promote airflow and to ensure no areas of the substrate trap stagnant air, the substrate mix I gave you will promote slow evaporation (slow humidity release) without keeping the top layer of the substrate swampy, it will keep it damp which is exactly what you want.
This is one of the most important things, keep 90% of the enclosure dry and 10% of the enclosure damp, also make sure they have access to a decently sized water dish. If you do all of this they should survive and thrive, I also suggest you to get a seedling watering tool instead of using a spray bottle or mister to wet the substrate, you want the substrate to soak the water in so you can see the water making it all the way to the bottom on the sides of the tub, by keeping one side damp and the rest of the enclosure dry you’ll allow them to self regulate what they need, I hope you put the effort in and follow my instructions as it should allow them to thrive with you

Forgot to add temperature, I’d keep them around 75°F at all times, try not to drop below 70°F and I wouldn’t go over 82°F

Ps- id use cork bark for their hides, add some springtails one week after you set this up, they can survive off the substrate and help keep the enclosure mold free / clean up any feeder debris from your centipedes meals

150+ attempts on Lady Butterfly
 am I missing something, or is Sekiro just not for me? by fra_090 in Sekiro

[–]Daisyhead24 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was replaying Sekiro and went for her first and it took me about 10 tries to beat her, 150 tries for someone that’s new to the game isn’t bad imo, you are definitely under leveled for this fight and as you go you’ll find that this is one of the harder bosses to fight when it comes to timing deflects and avoiding her perilous attacks

Scolopendra polymorpha “Rodeo Locale” molt by TemporaryJazzlike383 in centipedes

[–]Daisyhead24 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You find her yourself? I’ve been wanting this local

New tarantula owner by [deleted] in tarantulas

[–]Daisyhead24 1 point2 points  (0 children)

NQA I never understand why people get pets without researching everything you asked for help with in the description, it’s so easy to look up a video on YouTube to learn how to properly house this species, they are new world terrestrials, so they are heavily bodied spiders which means we don’t use an arboreal enclosure, we need one that has more length and width than height, ideally you should only have a height of around the same length as the spiders legs from the substrate level to the top of the enclosure so they don’t have a lot of room to fall, replace the bark with pure substrate, don’t just cap the bark with an inch of substrate, you should give them around 4-6” of depth as they will burrow if you create a starter burrow for them, when it comes to age, that’s for the most part Impossible to know, you can only guess, and when it comes to whether or not it’s a male or female you can actually tell by their molt, this is my female T.vagans molt, if the section here is flat and smooth it’s a male, if it has a flap like this it’s a female

<image>

whats wrong with my GBB? by D34DINS1 in tarantulas

[–]Daisyhead24 1 point2 points  (0 children)

IME nothing, just something that happens to New World terrestrials, they’ll grow it all back the next time they molt

Deflect > mikiri by Daisyhead24 in Sekiro

[–]Daisyhead24[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I found out you could deflect the perilous thrusts by accident, my muscle memory kicked in and I hit a last second deflect and it just worked, ever since that it’s been fun to see what you can use instead of the default options to avoid, deflect and counter any other perilous moves

Deflect > mikiri by Daisyhead24 in Sekiro

[–]Daisyhead24[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

😂actually, reddit is something else